Bobble Sheep Pillow In Partridge
We love pillows of all sheeps and sizes! As if our Bobble Sheep Pillows weren’t already cute enough, we’re adding a new lamb-sized sheep to our flock… the Bobble Sheep in Partridge!
Bobbles might just be the most playful stitch in knitting, and they certainly make a fantastic knobbly sheep fleece. To knit this little friend, you work the body of bobbles in the round, shaping it with simple increases and decreases, then pick up and knit the head, ears, and tail in a thinner contrast yarn. Baa-utiful!
For such a huggable a project, soft and squishy Partridge is an excellent choice. A single ply of incredibly sumptuous 100% merino wool, Partridge is a worsted weight, which is thinner than either our Super Soft Merino or Gentle Giant versions and, thus, knits up a more diminutive sheep.
Pick up a Bobble Sheep Pillow Bundle in Partridge and add a new baby lamb to your happy flock of Bobble Sheep Pillows!
Originally designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoBobbleSheepPillow and #PurlSohoPartridge. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
Our Bobble Sheep Pillow Bundle now comes in a Partridge version, which includes…
- Main Yarn: 2 skeins of Purl Soho’s Partridge, 100% merino wool, in either Heirloom White or Wrought Iron. Each skein is 131 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 260 yards required.
- Contrast Yarn: 1 skein of Purl Soho’s Good Wool, 100% dyed Andean highland wool, in the color Coastline Gray. Each skein is 383 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 75 yards required.
You’ll also need…
- US 9 (5.5 mm), 16- or 24-inch circular needles
- A set of US 9 double pointed needles
- A set of US 4 (3.5 mm) double pointed needles
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- 1 bag of Fairfield’s Poly-fil Stuffing
- Scrap yarn in a worsted weight and a crochet hook to match (for provisional cast on)
Gauge
- 14 stitches and 20½ rounds = 4 inches in Bobble Stitch (see Notes, below) with Main Yarn on larger needles, unblocked
- 17 stitches and 30 rounds = 4 inches in garter stitch with Main Yarn on larger needles, unblocked
- 26 stitches and 36 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch with Contrast Yarn on smaller needles, unblocked
NOTE: To avoid running short of Partridge, be sure to recycle the yarn from your swatches.
Size
Finished Dimensions: Approximately 13½ inches long (from chest to rear) x 8½ inches tall (from top of back to bottom of belly)
NOTES
BOBBLE STITCH: FOR GAUGE SWATCH
NOTE: For ease of counting stitches, count on the wrong side of the swatch.
Cast on a multiple of 4 + 1 stitches.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Row 1 (right Side): K2, *MB (see below), k3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, MB, k2.
Row 2: Knit to end of row.
Row 3: *MB, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, MB.
Row 4: Knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1–4 to desired length.
Bind off knitwise, but do not cut yarn.
SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS
K3TOG [KNIT 3 TOGETHER]
Insert right needle into next three stitches knitwise, knit all three stitches together as if they were one stitch. [2 stitches decreased]
MB [MAKE BOBBLE]
NOTE: For a photo tutorial on how to make this particular bobble, please click here.
Knit into next stitch, leaving it on left needle, [(yarn over, knit 1) into same stitch] 2 times; turn work so wrong side is facing you, k5; turn work so right side is facing you, knit 2 together (k2tog), return stitch to left needle, slip remaining three stitches of bobble over the k2tog stitch, knit that stitch.
SK2P [SLIP 1, KNIT 2 TOGETHER, PASS SLIPPED STITCH OVER]
Slip 1 purlwise, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over knit stitch and off needle. [2 stitches decreased]
PATTERN
NOTE: The photos accompanying this pattern are of the Super Soft Merino version of the Bobble Sheep Pillow.
BODY
BEGIN AT BELLY
With crochet hook and scrap yarn, use a Provisional Cast On to cast 46 stitches onto larger double pointed needles.
Distribute stitches on three double pointed needles, place a unique marker for end of round and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Round 1: With Main Yarn, knit to end of round.
Round 2: [P21, place marker (pm), k2] 2 times.
Round 3: Knit to end of round.
Round 4: [Purl to next marker, slip marker (sm), k2] 2 times.
SHAPE BODY
NOTE: Change to circular needles when necessary.
Round 1: [Make 1 left (m1L), k2, *make bobble (MB, see Notes), k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, make 1 right (m1R), sm, k2] 2 times. [4 stitches increased]
Round 2: [M1L, purl to next marker, m1R, sm, k2] 2 times. [4 stitches increased]
Rounds 3–8: Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 three more times. [78 stitches]
Round 9: [K2, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, sm, k2] 2 times.
Round 10: [M1L, purl to next marker, m1R, sm, k2] 2 times. [4 stitches increased]
Round 11: [K1, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, MB, k1, sm, k2] 2 times.
Round 12: Repeat Round 10.
Round 13: [*MB, k3, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, MB, sm, k2] 2 times.
Round 14: Repeat Round 10.
Round 15: [K3, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 4 stitches before next marker, MB, k3, sm, k2] 2 times.
Round 16: Repeat Round 10. [94 stitches]
WORK EVEN
Round 1: [K2, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, sm, k2] 2 times.
Round 2: [Purl to next marker, sm, k2] 2 times.
Round 3: [*MB, k3, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, MB, sm, k2] 2 times.
Round 4: Repeat Round 2.
Repeat Rounds 1–4 two more times.
SHAPE BACK
NOTE: Change to double pointed needles when necessary.
Round 1: K2, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, sk2p (see Notes), sm, k2, k3tog (see Notes), **k3, MB, repeat from ** to 2 stitches before next marker, k2, sm, k2. [90 stitches remain, 4 stitches decreased at head]
Round 2: Knit 2 together (k2tog), purl to 3 stitches before next marker, sk2p, sm, k2, k3tog, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, slip slip knit (ssk), sm, k2. [6 stitches decreased: 2 at tail, 4 at head]
Round 3: K3, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 5 stitches before next marker, MB, k1, sk2p, sm, k2, k3tog, k1, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to next marker, sm, k2. [80 stitches remain, 4 stitches decreased at head]
Round 4: Repeat Round 2. [74 stitches remain]
Round 5: *MB, k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, sm, k4, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to 1 stitch before next marker, MB, sm, k2.
Round 6: [K2tog, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2] two times. [4 stitches decreased: 2 at tail, 2 at head]
Round 7: K1, *MB, k3, repeat from * to next marker, sm, k5, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to 2 stitches before next marker, MB, k1, sm, k2.
Round 8: Repeat Round 6. [66 stitches remain]
Round 9: K2tog, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, MB, sm, k2, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, ssk, sm, k2. [64 stitches remain, 2 stitches decreased at tail]
Round 10: Repeat Round 6. [60 stitches remain]
Round 11: K2tog, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, MB, k1, sm, **k3, MB, repeat from ** to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2. [58 stitches remain, 2 stitches decreased at tail]
Round 12: Repeat Round 6. [54 stitches remain]
Round 13: K2tog, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, sm, k4, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, ssk, sm, k2. [52 stitches remain, 2 stitches decreased at tail]
Round 14: Repeat Round 6. [48 stitches remain]
Round 15: K2tog, *MB, k3, repeat from * to next marker, sm, k5, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, ssk, sm, k2. [46 stitches remain, 2 stitches decreased at tail]
Remove end-of-round marker and slip last stitch of last round onto left needle.
Cut yarn, leaving a 30-inch tail.
Divide stitches in half, sliding 23 stitches to each end of circular needles or arranging them onto two double pointed needles.
Holding the needles parallel to each other, use Kitchener Stitch to graft together the two sides of the Back.
Weave in the ends.
HEAD
NOTE: You will notice in the following pictures that we next stuffed the Bobble Sheep and closed the Belly. However, we recommend making the Head, Ears, and Tail before you stuff the Sheep and graft the Belly. Live and learn!
Orienting the Body right side up, locate the Neck section, as shown above. This strip of stockinette stitches is where you will work the Head.
NOTE: To pick up 3 stitches in one stitch, as instructed in the following round and later in the patttern, pick up and knit one stitch, yarn over, insert needle back into same stitch and pick up and knit one more stitch.
Pick-Up Round: Using Contrast Yarn and smaller double pointed needles, starting at bottom of Neck, pick up 3 stitches in each of next 15 stitches along left side of Neck, pick up and knit two stitches along top, rotate Body and pick up 3 stitches in each of 15 stitches along right side of Neck. [92 stitches]
Distribute stitches on four double pointed needles, place a unique end-of-round marker and join for working in the round.
Set-Up Round: K16, [pm, k30] 2 times, pm, knit to end of round.
Decrease Round 1: K1, m1L, knit to next marker, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, knit to last stitch, m1R, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Decrease Round 2: Knit to first marker, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before third marker, ssk, sm, knit to end of round. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Decrease Rounds 1 and 2 five more times. [68 stitches remain]
Decrease Round 3: Knit to next marker, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, knit to end of round. [4 stitches decreased]
Repeat Decrease Rounds 2 and 3. [58 stitches remain]
Repeat Decrease Round 2 one more time. [56 stitches remain]
Decrease Round 4: K2tog, knit to next marker, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, knit to last 2 stitches, ssk. [6 stitches decreased]
Repeat Decrease Round 4, removing first and third marker. [44 stitches remain]
Decrease Round 5: K2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, ssk. [4 stitches decreased]
Repeat Decrease Round 5 two more times. [32 stitches remain]
Cut yarn leaving a 16-inch tail.
Divide stitches in half, placing first 16 stitches on first double pointed needle and second 16 stitches on second double pointed needle. Use Kitchener Stitch to graft together two sides of Head.
Weave in the ends.
EARS
RIGHT EAR
Orient the Body with Head pointing to the left. Using Contrast Yarn and smaller double pointed needles, pick up 18 stitches for Right Ear as follows…
Count four stitches down from top of Head (just above a bobble), pick up 3 stitches in this stitch and in the next two stitches above it (9 stitches picked up so far), then rotate Body pick up 3 stitches in each of the stitches next to those you just picked up, working back towards the starting point. [18 total stitches]
Distribute stitches on three double pointed needles, place marker, and join for working in the round.
Knit 4 rounds even.
Remove marker and turn work.
NOTE: You will now work back and forth in rows, turning the work at the end of each row.
Row 1 (inside of ear): Purl to end of row.
Row 2 (outside of ear): Knit to end of row.
Rows 3–5: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 one time, then repeat Round 1 one more time.
Row 6: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 7: Purl to end of row.
Rows 8–19: Repeat Rows 6 and 7 six more times. [4 stitches remain]
Row 20: Ssk, k2tog. [2 stitches remain]
Bind-Off Row: P2, pass first stitch over second. [1 stitch remains]
Cut yarn and pull through remaining stitch.
Weave in the ends.
LEFT EAR
Orient the Body with the Head pointing to the right. Using Contrast Yarn and smaller double pointed needles, pick up 18 stitches and work Left Ear as for Right Ear.
TAIL
With Main Yarn and larger double pointed needles, pick up 12 stitches as follows…
Pick-Up Row: With rear of Body facing you, count 5 stitches down left side from end of Back. Starting there, pick up and knit 5 stitches up left side, with a second double pointed needle, pick up and knit 2 stitches along ridge of Back, and with a third double pointed needle, pick up and knit 5 stitches down right side of the rear. [12 stitches]
NOTE: You will work the Tail flat in rows, turning the Sheep at the end of each row.
Rows 1–4: Knit to end of row.
Row 5: Bind off 1 stitch, knit to end of row. [1 stitch decreased]
Rows 6–8: Repeat Row 5 three more times. [8 stitches remain]
Bind off knitwise.
STUFF + CLOSE BELLY
Loosely stuff Body with Poly-Fil, then slip stitches from Provisional Cast On onto two ends of circular needles or onto two double pointed needles, dividing them in half. With Main Yarn, use Kitchener Stitch to graft Belly closed.
LEGS
Using Contrast Yarn and smaller double pointed needles, pick up 26 stitches at one end of the Belly, as follows…
Pick-Up Round: Starting at one of Belly, pick up 3 stitches in each of 4 stitches along one side of the Belly [12 stitches], pick up and knit 1 stitch in center of Belly seam, rotate Body and pick up 12 stitches along other side of Belly (3 stitches in each of 4 stitches), then pick up and knit one stitch in center of seam. [26 total stitches]
Distribute stitches on three double pointed needles, place a marker and join for working in the round.
Round 1: [K12, p1] 2 times.
Repeat Round 1 until Leg measures 4 inches from Pick-Up Round.
Next Round: [K11, ssk] 2 times. [2 stitches decreased]
Cut yarn, leaving a 10-inch tail.
Divide stitches in half, placing first 12 stitches on one double pointed needle and second 12 stitches on a second double pointed needle. Use Kitchener Stitch to graft two sides of Leg together.
Make a second Leg at the other end of Belly.
Weave in the ends and you are all finished with your Bobble Sheep Pillow!
Is there any way I can get a printed copy of an emailed copy of this pattern as my kindle keeps dying on me whilst I am trying to read the instructions. Many thanks. Sue
Hi Sue,
Thanks for reaching out. There is indeed a way to print out a nice copy of this pattern! If you’re on your computer, you’ll find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find the “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Click on this button, and a window will pop up where you can delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print. When you hover over any image or a text block, it will be highlighted in yellow and a “trash” icon will appear. Just click on this icon to delete anything that’s not necessary to the pattern! For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. Then, just click on the “Print” button in the upper left-hand corner of the pop-up window!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I am making bobble sheep giant
In directions it says occasionally
“ increasing every or every other round”
Is the increasing happening thru the directions of each row or do i need to be increasing some other way?
Hi Mary,
Thanks for reaching out! The increase stitches (either m1L or m1R) will always be clearly notated in each round of this pattern, so you do not need to worry about adding these in on your own. We state “Increasing every round” and “Increasing every other round” just to give knitters a heads up on what to expect for the shaping of the sheep’s body. But you can follow the pattern exactly as written, and all the increases will be there!
All the best,
Lili
Is there a crocheted version of these? I’ve had a stroke and can’t hold a knitting needle in my left hand.
Hi Linda,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately, we only offer this as a knitting pattern, but thank you so much for expressing your interest! I will be sure to pass your suggestion along to the rest of the team.
Warm regards,
Gianna
Is there a way to download this PDF into Knit Companion or into Ravelry? Just bought the yarn but it’s easier to bring my iPad than 19 pages! Can’t wait to make this. Thank you.
Hi Theresa,
Thanks for reaching out. Here’s how you can download this pattern as a PDF: If you’re on your computer, you’ll find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find the “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Click on this button, and a window will pop up where you can delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print. When you hover over any image or a text block, it will be highlighted in yellow and a “trash” icon will appear. Just click on this icon to delete anything that’s not necessary to the pattern! For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. Then, click on the “PDF” button in the upper left-hand corner of the pop-up window. Once your PDF has finished downloading, just click the “Download PDF” button, and it will be saved to your computer!
All the best,
Lili
Good afternoon !
I am a very experienced knitter from the NorthWest.
Just started the “Sheep” pillow, which is absolutely adorable.
However, I am very much struggling with the pattern.
I just started this project, I have reached the “Shape Body” part, but where exactly do you make the 1mL and 1mR?
Especially after the first 21 stitches ?
I have tried several options and times, but these just did not work out.
So I need your help.
I sincerely hope you get back to me soon, so I can continue my lovely project.
Hi Magda,
Thanks for reaching out. The m1R and m1L increases should be worked into the “bar” between stitches! We have a wonderful video tutorial that demonstrates this, and you can find it right here. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
No, it does not help.
I am so sorry, Lili.
I do know how to make the m1R and m1L, however I can not figure out WHERE to make these !
Hi Magda,
Oh no! It sounds like I misinterpreted your question, so I’ll try to answer it again. The pattern instructions will let you know exactly where to work each increase stitch. Here’s Round 1, for example:
Round 1: [Make 1 left (m1L), k2, *make bobble (MB, see Notes), k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, make 1 right (m1R), sm, k2] 2 times. [4 stitches increased]
The very first stitch in this round is a m1L, then you’ll k2 and repeat the instructions within the asterisks until there are just 3 stitches before the next marker. When you get to that point, you’ll make a bobble, knit 2, and then work a m1R. Then, you’ll slip that marker and knit 2 stitches. Once you’ve completed that, you’ll have completed all the instructions within the square brackets, and then you can work through those instructions once more.
Overall, as long as you follow the instructions as written, it should become clear where to work the increase stitches, since the pattern will indicate this! I hope this helps clear things up, but if not, I’d recommend sending us a photo of your work at customerservice@purlsoho.com, so that we can visualize what’s giving you trouble.
All the best,
Lili
So I have just completed the head and it is on wrong. Upside down. You said to start it at the bottom of the neck which I did and that is the back of the completed head. Ugh. Have to rip it out. Should read pick up stitches starting at the top of the neck.
Hi Krista,
I am so sorry to hear that you wound up having problems with the positioning of the sheep’s head! We know how frustrating it can be to have to redo all your hard work and are eager to help get you back on track so it’ll be perfect the next time.
The first thing we want to cover is the position of where you should pick up stitches for the head and the direction you should be moving. When you are picking up stitches around the neck, you should start at the bottom left-hand side and move clockwise. We definitely do not recommend starting at the top!
Once your stitches are picked up and you have your markers in place from the set up row, I would recommend double checking where you are making your increases and decreases. Your increased stitches will be made at the beginning and end of the round, while your decreased stitches will only be made at the two placed markers on either side.
If it sounds like you did everything exactly as written above, I think it would be best if you email us at customerservice@purlsoho.com with pictures of your work. This way we’ll be able to get a better idea of where things went awry and we can figure out how to help you more efficiently!
All the best,
Zha Zha
I have almost finished my bobble sheet in Partridge. Are there only two legs? I just want to make sure I understand the pattern. It is coming out nice. I am making this as a gift for a friend.
Hi Gail,
Thanks so much for reaching out!
Our adorable Bobble Sheep Pillow has only 2 legs, but you could easily adjust the pattern to give your fuzzy friend 4 legs, if you would prefer! If you are including the extra legs, pick up the 26 leg stitches from the middle row of the grafted belly so that you have room to pick up the extra 26 stitches for a second leg, or you can knit the legs separately from the body and graft them on later!
I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Carly
I’m almost finished with this adorable project but am not sure how to do the tail. After picking up stitches the instructions state to knit flat. Does that mean not in the round? The yarn is in position to purl flat or knit in the round. Which is it? Thanks for your usual speedy reply.
Hi Carol,
Thanks for reaching out! After you pick up stitches for the tail up the right side of the sheep’s seam, and back down the left, you should be ready to knit each row flat. The yarn tail left from picking up stitches should be hanging on the left side of the sheep’s tail, so you will need to turn your work to knit back across your next row instead of knitting in the round!
I hope this helps, and please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Carly
Has anyone ever tried to add a zipper and lining for the stuffing? I am making this for a baby and want to make sure their parents can spot clean.
Hi Victoria!
Thank you for your question! If you wanted to add in a zipper, you could do so in place of where you would use Kitchener stitch to graft together the back stitches. I would try to bind off the remaining stitches with a basic knit bind off so that you have a solid edge to use when sewing in the zipper. If you do end up incorporating a zipper, please let us know how it turns out!
I also wanted to point out our Spot Soap, which is a great way to spot-clean knitted items!
I hope this is helpful, and please feel free to let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Margaret
Thank you so much! I will let you know if I attempt it 🙂
You are very welcome, Victoria!
Happy knitting,
Margaret
Hello I’m knitting this adorable pillow for my 18 month old nephew who loves all farm animals, but especially his Baaas his small collection of toy sheep. I am wondering about the face, in the instructions it does not give any information about stuffing the head. Is this intentional? IE the head is not supposed to be stuffed?
Hi Ria,
Thanks for reaching out, and I bet that your nephew will love the sheep you’re making! You’re correct, we did not stuff the head of the sheep, since we found that the knitting has enough structure to keep it in shape. But you can absolutely add some stuffing there if you like!
All the best,
Lili
I feel like a real moron here. I am working the first round of bobbles. I make a third bobble before the first marker and I end up with only 2 sts on the needle. I’ve frogged and done it several times and it’s the same each time. I have the correct number of sts on the needles, the markers are in the correct place. I cannot figure out how to knit to ” 3 stitches before next marker and then make another bobble. What on earth am I doing wrong?
Hi Marla,
Thanks for reaching out, although I’m sorry to hear that this round is giving you trouble! I often find that it’s helpful to break a round down into smaller chunks to see exactly how the instructions work with the stitches on your needles. Here’s how I would break this round down:
m1L – adding a stitch (don’t need to count this on this round!)
k2 – 1st and 2nd stitch of the round
*make bobble (MB, see Notes), k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker – a repeat of 4 stitches, brings you from the 3rd stitch to the 18th stitch
MB – 19th stitch
m1R – adding a stitch (not counted)
k2 – 20th and 21st stitch
sm – not a stitch at all!
k2 – 22nd and 23rd stitch
So the first repeat of the bracketed instructions brings you from the 1st to the 23rd stitch of the round–exactly halfway through! When you repeat this segment, you’ll cover the 24th through the 46th stitch. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Marla, I am having the same experience so thank you for your comment here!! I don’t know if you ended up persevering and making your sheep but I hope you did. Due to the advice below I might try to literally draw out this pattern before I try again next time because it’s so confusing to me. Did this advice help?
Thanks for this wonderful pattern and instructions. I would love to knit 2 or 3 little bobble sheep rather than a bobble sheep pillow. Is there a similar pattern for little sheep? Thanks.
Hi Anne,
Thanks for reaching out. We only have this one pattern for the sheep, but you can use a thinner yarn to make a smaller sheep! That’s how we’ve made 3 different large sizes, just by using different weight yarns! For our versions, we’ve used worsted weight, chunky/bulky weight, and jumbo weight yarns. So for a smaller version, you could use DK, sport, or fingering weight instead and follow the pattern as written!
All the best,
Lili
Gorgeous, thanks for this free pattern!
Hi Priscilla,
You’re very welcome! Thanks for your kind comment and have a great day!
All the best,
Cat
My comment apparently got lost (the added comment, an edit, is being moderated, but no sign of the original. Sorry if I’m repeating.) I’m at the ears and having a dreadful time picking up three stitches within a single stitch. Is there a video you can direct me to? Thanks so much. Love this pattern.
Hi Theresa,
Thanks writing in, although I’m sorry to hear that you’re having trouble getting started with the ears! I’m afraid that we don’t have a tutorial on this specific thing, but I’d be happy to help out as best I can. I would recommend picking up the first stitch knitwise (as normal), then moving your working yarn to the front, picking up the next stitch purlwise, moving the working yarn back to the back of the work, and finally picking up the third stitch knitwise. It’s a bit fiddly, but this method will leave you with 3 full stitches!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks, Lili. So we’re picking up and knitting rather than just picking up, which is what I wound up doing. I thought I followed the directions with painful precision, and now I have a right ear with the open end up. Very discouraging. Up to this I’ve been loving this pattern (and I’ll love the sheep when he’s done, it’s adorable). I’ll see if I can wrangle the left ear correctly and then rip out and do the right ear over.
Hi Theresa,
I’m sorry to hear that this part of the pattern has been discouraging! It sounds like you may have began working flat (after the beginning portion in the round) at the wrong point of the ear. To make sure the ear faces forward, you’ll need to begin the rows at the front-most side of the ear. Hope this helps give you a bit more context as you knit the left ear and redo the right!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you.
Hi, from the pictures, it looks like you pick up and knit from the inside (bottom left going clockwise) but then start the set up round on the outside so that the right side of the stockinette face out, correct?
Thanks,
Jane
Hi Jane,
Thanks for reaching out! Both the Pick-Up Round and the Set-Up Round go clockwise, which will result in the knit V’s of the stockinette facing outwards. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hey all! Does anyone have any recommendations for third party videos of other makers doing this pattern? Closest I found was someone making an insert for their already knit sheep. I’m having real trouble visualizing what’s happening with this pattern.
Hi —
1. How do you “finish” the tail? Because it’s knit flat, it’s curved, but open. But in the pictures the tail looks closed.
2. Are the two legs on the same side of the sheep? One at the head and one towards the tail? Or are they both at the head?
Thanks,
s
Hi Sinduja,
Thanks for writing in! You’re completely correct–the tail is knit flat, although it is curved. At the end of the tail, all you’ll do is bind off the remaining stitches and leave the tail open. If you wanted to, you could seam it up to close it, but we kept in open in our sample sheep!
In answer to your other question, one leg is closer to the head and the other closer to the tail. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hello,
I’ve got two questions for you in the “Shape Body” section of Bobble in Partridge.
1. Instructions say:
Round 2: [M1L, purl to next marker, m1R, sm, k2]
Question: how can I purl to next marker, then make a stitch, when “sm” is noted *after* m1R? Or, should I purl until 1 stitch *prior* to marker, then make one right?
2. When told to M1L, then k2, do I knit the one I made, and then k2 more, or does the one I made count as one of the k2s?
Hi Vija,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m happy to answer your questions on this pattern!
1. The m1R increase in this round is located directly before the stitch marker. You will be creating the increase in the bar between the stitch right before the marker and the stitch right after the marker. Just be sure to keep the stitch marker on your left needle while you work the increase! Once you’ve completed the increase stitch, you can then slip the marker to your right needle.
2. When you work any make-one increase, the stitch you create will end up on your right needle. Because of that, you will not be able to knit it on the same round! I’d recommend taking a look at our video tutorial on this type of increase to see exactly how it functions.
I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili