Smarty Pants
Our Smarty Pants recognize the utter cuteness of well-clad baby legs. After all, pudgy little thighs and big ol’ diaper bottoms are half the fun of babies!
Knit in the round from the top down, starting with a drawstring channel and finishing with either tapered pant legs or short little shorts, they’re a smart (and fun!) knit. And so then, what yarn to use? We couldn’t decide either, so we knit up the pants style in our Cygnet and the shorts in our Santolina, two great options with so much to love!
Cygnet is our incredibly soft and gentle 70% undyed white cashmere and 30% natural-color baby alpaca blend. It comes in a handful of quiet neutrals, just how the alpaca grew them, and is the perfect choice for knitting an heirloom.
Or Santolina… 70% organically grown cotton, 20% rayon from bamboo, and 10% hemp, it is also wonderfully soft and beautiful in the hand. In addition, it is machine wash- and dry-able and comes in 16 whisper-y colors, just right for smarty pant babies on the move!
Designed by Purl Soho founder and co-owner, Joelle Hoverson.
Share your progress + connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoSmartyPants, #PurlSohoCygnet, and #PurlSohoSantolina. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
Pants
- 2 (2, 3, 3) skeins of Purl Soho’s Cygnet, 70% undyed white cashmere and 30% natural-color baby alpaca. Each skein is 164 yards/ 50 grams; approximately 200 (270, 370, 492) yards required. We used the color Silver Stone, shown above left.
OR
- 1 (1, 2, 2) skein(s) of Purl Soho’s Santolina, 70% organically grown cotton, 20% bamboo, and 10% hemp. Each skein is 328 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 200 (270, 370, 492) yards required.
You will also need…
- US 2 (3 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 2 double pointed needles
- A set of US 1 (2.5 mm) double pointed needles
- Spare 16-inch circular needles, size US 2 or smaller
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- Scrap yarn for provisional cast on
- A safety pin
Shorts
- 1 (2, 2, 2) skein(s) of Purl Soho’s Cygnet, 70% undyed white cashmere and 30% natural-color baby alpaca. Each skein is 164 yards/ 50 grams; approximately 155 (200, 255, 310) yards required.
OR
- 1 (1, 1, 1) skein of Purl Soho’s Santolina, 70% organically grown cotton, 20% bamboo, and 10% hemp. Each skein is 328 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 155 (200, 255, 310) yards required. We used the color Heirloom White, shown above right.
You will also need…
- US 2 (3 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 1 (2.5 mm) double pointed needles
- Spare 16-inch circular needles, size US 2 or smaller
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- Scrap yarn for provisional cast on
- A safety pin
Gauge
28 stitches and 37 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Sizes
0-3 months (3-6 months, 6-12 months, 12-18 months)
- Finished Waist Circumference: 14¾ (16½, 18¾, 20½) inches
- Finished Total Length of Shorts: 7 (8, 9, 10) inches
- Finished Total Length of Pants: 11½ (14½, 17½, 20½) inches
- Finished Inseam of Pants: 5½ (7½, 9½, 11½) inches
- Finished Ankle Circumference of Pants: 4 (4¼, 4¾, 5¼) inches, unstretched
Sample: We knit both the Pants and the Shorts in the 3-6 months size.
Notes
Construction
Both the Pants and Shorts are knit in the round from the top down. You’ll start at the Waist with the Drawstring Channel, then knit the Hips area, and then divide the stitches for the two Legs, binding off at center front and back for the crotch. For Pants, you’ll shape each Leg down to Cuff, and for Shorts, you’ll immediately work the Cuff.
Provisional Cast On
For assistance, including how to put live stitches back onto needles, please visit our Provisional Cast-On: A Two-Step Method Tutorial.
Pattern
Waist + Hips: Shorts + Pants
With scrap yarn and using a Provisional Cast-on (see Notes), cast 104 (116, 132, 144) stitches onto main circular needles.
Place a unique marker for end of round, and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Make Drawstring Channel
Rounds 1-5: Knit to end of round.
Round 6: Purl to end of round.
Rounds 7 and 8: Knit to end of round.
Round 9: K26 (29, 33, 36), yo, knit 2 together (k2tog), knit to end of round.
Rounds 10 and 11: Knit to end of round.
Carefully remove scrap yarn from provisional cast on, slipping stitches onto spare circular needles as you go.
Fold piece at purl round, bringing cast-on edge up the inside of the work so purl sides are facing each other and knit side with eyelet is facing out. Spare needles are behind working needles.
Round 12: Using right working needle, *knit first stitch on left working needle together with first stitch on left spare needle, repeat from * to end of round.
Shape Back
Next Round: K78 (87, 99, 108), place marker for center Back, knit to end of round.
Knit 5 rounds.
Increase Round: Knit to 1 stitch before next marker, make 1 left (m1L), k1, slip marker, k1, make 1 right (m1R), knit to end of round. [2 stitches increased]
Working in stockinette stitch, repeat Increase Round every 6th (7th, 6th, 5th) round 6 (7, 9, 13) more times. [118 (132, 152, 172) stitches]
Continue in stockinette until piece measures 6 (7, 8, 9) inches from top of I-cord Channel.
Divide Legs
Division Round: K23 (25, 28, 30) stitches, bind off 6 (8, 10, 12) stitches, knit to 3 (4, 5, 6) stitches before next marker, bind off 6 (8, 10, 12) stitches (removing marker).
Continue to Pants or Shorts instructions below.
Pants Only
Right Leg
Set-Up Round: With larger double pointed needles, slip remaining stitch from last bind off onto first double pointed needle, then k17 (18, 21, 24) onto same double pointed needle; k18 (19, 22, 24) onto second double pointed needle (removing original end-of-round marker); k16 (19, 21, 24), place marker for new end of round, k1 onto third double pointed needle. [53 (58, 66, 74) stitches on double pointed needles]
Leave remaining stitches on circular needles. You’ll come back to them for the Left Leg.
**Join Leg stitches for working in the round.
Knit 6 rounds.
Decrease Round: K2, slip slip knit (ssk), knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [2 stitches decreased]
Working in stockinette stitch, repeat Decrease Round every 7th (10th, 12th, 11th) round 3 (4, 5, 7) more times. [45 (48, 54, 58) stitches remain]
Work in stockinette stitch until Leg measures 4 (6, 8, 10) inches from Division Round.
Switch to smaller double pointed needles.
Work Cuff
Size 0-3 Months Only
Decrease Round: K2tog, *p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [44 stitches remain]
All Sizes
Next Round: *K1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat last round until Cuff measures 1½ inches.
Bind off loosely in rib.
Left Leg
Returning to stitches on circular needles, use larger double pointed needles to rejoin yarn to front of Left Leg and knit remaining stitches as follows: K18 (19, 22, 25) onto first double pointed needle; k18 (19, 22, 24) onto second double pointed needle; k16 (19, 21, 24), place marker for new end of round, k1 onto third double pointed needle. [53 (58, 66, 74) stitches on needles]
Work from ** of Right Leg to end of Cuff.
Go on to Finishing section, below.
Shorts Only
Right Leg
Set-Up Round: With double pointed needles, slip remaining stitch from last bind off onto first double pointed needle, then k17 (18, 21, 24) onto same double pointed needle; k18 (19, 22, 24) onto second double pointed needle (removing original end-of-round marker); k16 (19, 21, 24), place marker for new end of round, k1 onto third double pointed needle. [53 (58, 66, 74) stitches on double pointed needles]
Leave remaining stitches on circular needles. You’ll come back to them for the Left Leg.
Join Leg stitches for working in the round.
Work Cuff
Size 0-3 Months Only
Decrease Round: K2tog, *p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [52 stitches remain]
All Sizes
Next Round: *K1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat last round until Cuff measures 1 inch.
Bind off loosely in rib.
Left Leg
Returning to stitches on circular needles, use double pointed needles to rejoin yarn to front of Left Leg, and knit remaining stitches as follows: K18 (19, 22, 24) onto first double pointed needle; k18 (19, 22, 24) onto second double pointed needle; k16 (19, 21, 24), place marker for new end of round, k1 onto third double pointed needle. [53 (58, 66, 74) stitches on needles]
Join Leg stitches for working in the round.
Work Cuff as for Right Leg.
Finishing: Pants + Shorts
Work I-Cord
Note: For help with this technique, please visit our I-Cord Tutorial.
With double pointed needles (larger size, if making Pants), cast on 3 stitches.
*Knit 3 stitches. Do not turn work. Slide the stitches to opposite end of needle. Bring yarn firmly behind stitches and repeat from * until I-cord measures 26 (28, 30, 32) inches.
Bind off stitches.
Pin a safety pin to end of I-Cord and pull it through Drawstring Channel.
Sew Crotch Seam
Seam together two sets of bound-off stitches. For help, please visit our Seaming Stockinette Stitch Horizontally Tutorial.
Weave In Ends + Block
Weave in ends and wet block gently as desired.
How did you know I love knitting all things baby. I have a friend that is due in September. I already knit a baby sweater and hat but I just have to knit her a pair of these.
If I used Posy, would it affect the number of cast on stitches?
Hi Cait,
Thanks for reaching out! Posy is also a fingering weight yarn so you should not have to change the number of stitches. However, I do recommend working a gauge swatch prior to beginning to ensure you are consistent with the pattern, at most you would only need to adjust your needle size a bit if your gauge is off!
Happy knitting!
gianna
What a fabulous design. Classic, functional, and adorable.
Hi Megan,
Thank you for your kind words! We’re pretty in love with these sweet little pants, and are so happy to hear that you like them too!
Warmly,
Kelsey
What an adorable design, I can’t wait to get started!
Is the gauge given for the blocked pants? Or unblocked?
Hi Elise,
We’re so glad to hear that you’re excited to start these sweet little pants! The gauge listed in the pattern was taken after blocking, so you’ll want to make sure that you wash and block your swatch before taking the gauge count. Generally speaking, all gauges in our patterns are taken after blocking, unless otherwise noted!
Warmly,
Kelsey
This looks really wonderful. Thank you for this pattern. I have just cast on with Santolina Green Agave. What a wonderful color! Just needed a little help understanding the pattern. What does “link” mean in the pattern? (make 1 left (M1L) [link]
Hu Luisa,
Thanks for reaching out! The link just brings you to the linked tutorial demonstrating the make 1 left (M1L) increase!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Love these pants! Working on them with my mom – size 1 and 2.
There are a few parts that are very odd…
At Shape Back
Next Round: K78 (87, 99, 108), place marker for center Back, knit to end of round.
??? So center back is not at center back? I did not do this. I put my centrr back marker at the midway point, not after 87 stitches.
Now at Divide Legs… why do you knit 25 before the first 6 stitch bonf off? Is that not the crotch of the pants?
“Division Round: K23 (25, 28, 30) stitches, bind off 6 (8, 10, 12) stitches, knit to 3 (4, 5, 6) stitches before next marker, bind off 6 (8, 10, 12) stitches (removing marker).”
Hi Maria,
Thanks for reaching out! Please send our customer service team this information and a photo of your work to cutsomerservice@purlsoho.com and we can confirm if your stitch marker is in the correct place!
Warmly,
Gianna
I had the same question!
Hi Robyn,
Thanks for reaching out! The way this garment is constructed, you actually begin with your end-of-round marker on the left side of the waistband. On Round 9, the yo and k2tog that you work form the hole for the drawstring to go through, and this is located at the center front of the pants, or, a quarter of the way around from the end-of-round marker. Then, when you place the marker for the center back of the pants, you knit three quarters of the way around from the end-of-round marker, so that the center back is directly opposite the center front.
This is the same reason why you’ll need to knit a number of stitches before binding off 6 stitches for the crotch seam. Since you’re beginning and ending each round on the left side of the pants, you’ll need to knit one quarter of the way around in order to get to the front of the garment.
I hope this explanation helps, but please feel free to send us photos of your work at customerservice@purlsoho.com if you’re still confused about where to place the stitch markers!
All the best,
Lili
hi there,
US 2 is 2.75mm — is the pattern for US 2 or US 3?
thanks!
Hi Sinduja,
Thanks for reaching out! We used a US 2 needles for this pattern!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello! A question about the leg setup round. What’s the end distribution of stitches on the dpns? 18 on the first, 18 on the second, 17 (and marker) on the third? Am I then supposed to redistribute the stitches to start the round beginning at the marker?
Thank you for the lovely pattern!
Hi Meidi,
That’s correct! By the end of the Set-Up Round, you should have 18 sts on the first needle, 18sts on the second needle, and 17 sts (and new beginning of round marker) on the third needle. From there, you will join to work in the round and knit according to the directions for your size. No need to redistribute the stitches, you can just continue to knit in the round as you work the decreases!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Hello! I am working on these for my second child (he hasn’t gotten as many handknit momma clothes as big sister), and I know this is a basic question, but when you count the 6 rounds in between the increases for the bum, do you knit 6 then increase on the 7th round or knit 5 and increase on the 6th round? Thank you!!! 🙂
Hi Kerith,
Thanks for reaching out, and that’s a very good question! For this pattern, you’ll need to knit 5 rounds and increase on the 6th round. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you!
Would this work in Buttercup Cotton? I bought some and didn’t get the other project done in time for the baby who grew faster than I knitted…but another one is on his way…
Hi Sue,
You could absolutely use Buttercup Cotton for this pattern, since it’s also a fingering weight yarn! As always, we recommend knitting a gauge swatch before casting on your project, especially when you are substituting yarns. You may need to size up or down your needles in order to get the correct gauge!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, can I use line weight or quartz for this pattern? I want to make the knit layette outfit complete with these pants. Thanks
Hi Judy,
Yes, both of those yarns would work for this pattern! They’re both slightly thinner than the original Cygnet, but you will definitely be able to achieve the correct gauge. The knit fabric will just be slightly less dense than originally intended, and you may need to size up your needles. I’d recommend knitting up a gauge swatch before starting the project to determine which needles are best!
All the best,
Lili