Windy Day Blanket
Leaves swirling in knee-high eddies and loose papers skimming on a breeze, we love how a windy day shakes thing up a bit! With its scattered bits of color, our Windy Day Blanket offers a little disorder without the chaos, like a gust of fresh air.
Its fascinating construction embraces the no-sewing rule. Knit all in one piece, you work a garter-stitch triangle, rotate, pick up an adjoining edge, and knit the next one. Never boring and very breezy!
For our Windy Day Blanket, we used our plush and cozy Linen Quill Worsted, a mix of fine highland wool, alpaca, and linen. Use the same lively palette we did with our Windy Day Blanket and whip up a Throw size!
UPDATE: NOW IN NEW COLORS
APRIL 2023
Snowflakes, petals, or vibrant leaves in fall, choose between three gorgeous new Windy Day Blanket Bundles made from Linen Quill Worsted’s palette of inspiring colors. Crib- or Throw- sized, cast on the colors that give you a gust of inspiration and enjoy the topsy-turvy beauty of this easy, no-sew blanket!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Jake Canton. Click here to see even more of Jake’s designs!
Share your progress + connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoWindyDayBlanket, and #PurlSohoLinenQuillWorsted. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
Our Windy Day Blanket requires 16 skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill Worsted, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. Each skein is 164 yards. (NOTE: We no longer offer Linen Quill Worsted, but choose from one of our other worsted weight yarns.)
NOTE: 16 skeins makes the Throw size Blanket. For the Crib Size, you will only need 6 skeins of Color A. (NOTE: the Windy Day Blanket Bundles are no longer available.)
- Color A: 6 (13) skeins of Linen Quill Worsted; approximately 984 (2,132) yards required. We used Pale Oats.
- Color B: 1 skein of Linen Quill Worsted; approximately 79 (117) yards required. We used Dandelion Yellow.
- Color C: 1 skein of Linen Quill Worsted; approximately 87 (164) yards required. We used Bright Flamingo.
- Color D: 1 skein of Linen Quill Worsted; approximately 87 (133) yards required. We used Super Orange.
You will also need…
- US 7 (4.5 mm), 24-inch circular needles
And here are two more pretty palettes for inspiration…
Color A: Pale Oats; Color B: True Turquoise
Color C: Eggshell Blue; Color D: Cobalt Blue
Color A: Pale Oats; Color B: Stonewall Gray
Color C: Kettle Black; Color D: Stillwater Blue
Gauge
18 stitches and 36 rows (18 garter ridges) = 4 inches in garter stitch
NOTE: This pattern uses almost the full skein of Colors A and C, so swatch in Colors B or D and make sure you achieve this gauge in order to ensure that you have enough yarn.
Sizes
Crib (Throw)
Finished Dimensions: 28 inches wide x 42 inches long (42 inches wide x 56 inches long)
Sample: The blanket pictured here is Throw size.
Notes
Picking Up Stitches
For instructions and a video tutorial on how to pick up stitches along a vertical edge in garter stitch, please visit our Picking Up Stitches Tutorial.
Changing Colors
Make sure you are always changing colors on right side rows, i.e. with the right side of the blanket facing you.
Basic Square Schematic
Basic Square Instructions
Basic Triangle 1
Cast on 45 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Row 1 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Row 2 (right side): Knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 together (k2tog). [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains.
Cut yarn and pull tail through remaining stitch.
Basic Triangle 2
With the right side of Triangle 1 facing you and its cast-on edge oriented vertically, join yarn and pick up and knit 45 stitches [see Picking Up Stitches Note, above] along the top edge of Triangle 1.
Row 1 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Row 2 (right side): Knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains.
Cut yarn and pull tail through remaining stitch.
Basic Triangle 3
With the right side of the piece facing you and picked-up edge oriented vertically, pick up and knit 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 2.
Row 1 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Row 2 (right side): Knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains.
Cut yarn and pull tail through remaining stitch.
Basic Triangle 4
With the right side of the piece facing you, orient the last picked-up edge vertically and starting at the center of the square, pick up and knit 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 3.
Row 1 (wrong side): Knit to last stitch, slip last stitch knitwise to right needle, pick up and knit 1 stitch from the adjacent cast-on edge of Triangle 1, pass slipped stitch over.
Row 2 (right side): Knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains.
Cut yarn and pull tail through remaining stitch.
Attached Squares Instructions
Attached Triangle 1
Cast on 45 stitches.
With the right side facing you, pick up and knit 45 stitches along the edge of the previous Square’s Triangle 3. [90 stitches]
Set-Up Row (wrong side): K47, place marker (pm), knit to end of row.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to marker, slip marker (sm), k2tog, slip 1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle. Turn work. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): K1, remove marker (rm), k1, pm, knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 4 stitches remain, ending with Row 2 and removing the marker.
Next Row (right side): K2tog, slip 1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle. Turn work. [2 stitches decreased]
Next Row (wrong side): K1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle.
Cut yarn and pull tail through remaining stitch.
Attached Triangle 2
With the right side facing you, orient the cast-on edge of Triangle 1 vertically, then pick up and knit 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 1.
With the right side facing you, turn the blanket upside down so that the top edge is the bottom edge, then pick up and knit 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 4 of the Square indicated in the pattern.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): K47, place marker (pm), knit to end of row.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to marker, k2tog, slip 1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle. Turn work. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): K1, remove marker (rm), k1, pm, knit to end of row.
Repeat Row 1 and 2 until 4 stitches remain on the needle, ending with Row 2 and removing the marker.
Next Row (right side): K2tog, slip 1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle. Turn work. [2 stitches remain]
Next Row (wrong side): K1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle. Cut yarn and pull tail through remaining stitch.
Attached Triangle 3
With the right side facing you, orient the picked-up edge of Triangle 2 vertically, then pick up and knit 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 2.
With the right side facing you, turn the blanket 90 degrees counterclockwise so the top of the blanket is on your right and the bottom is on your left, then pick up and knit 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 1 of the Square indicated in the pattern.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): K47, place marker (pm), knit to end of row.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to marker, k2tog, slip 1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle. Turn work. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): K1, remove marker (rm), k1, pm, knit to end of row.
Repeat Row 1 and 2 until 4 stitches remain on the needle, ending with Row 2 and removing the marker.
Next Row (right side): K2tog, slip 1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle. Turn work. [2 stitches remain]
Next Row (wrong side): K1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle. Cut yarn and pull tail through remaining stitch.
NOTE: Having trouble visualizing the Attached Triangles section? One of our wonderful customers made this helpful PDF guide. Thank you Pajes!
Layout Schematic
Below is a schematic of the full layout for the blanket. Work the Squares in order from 1 to 12.
Want to see it bigger? Here’s a pdf…
Pattern
Square 1
Triangle 1
NOTE: Mark the right side of the work with a removable stitch marker to keep track of the right side.
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 1 in the BASIC SQUARE INSTRUCTIONS (see Notes).
Triangle 2
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 2, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 13 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color B, continue following the same instructions for the rest of the Triangle.
Triangle 3
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 3, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 24 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color C, continue following the same instructions for the rest of the Triangle.
Triangle 4
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4.
Square 2
Triangle 1
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 1 in the ATTACHED SQUARE INSTRUCTIONS (see Notes).
Triangles 2 + 3
With Color A, repeat the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 2 and BASIC TRIANGLE 3.
Triangle 4
With Color C, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4.
Square 3
Triangle 1
With Color A, following the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 1, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 36 stitches remain on right needle after final Row 1. Cut Color A.
With Color D, continue following the same instructions and repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 20 stitches remain on right needle after final Row 1. Cut Color D.
With Color A, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 1.
Triangle 2
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 2, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 27 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color C, continue following the same instructions and repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 18 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color C.
With Color A, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 2.
Triangle 3 + Triangle 4
With Color A, repeat the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 3 and BASIC TRIANGLE 4.
Square 4
Triangle 1
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 1.
Triangle 2
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2 (see Notes), picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 3.
Triangle 3
With Color B, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 3.
Triangle 4
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 31 stitches remain, Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color D, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 4.
Square 5
Triangle 1
With Color B, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 1, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 37 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color B.
With Color A, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 1.
Triangle 2
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 2.
Triangle 3
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 3, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 1 from SQUARE 4.
Triangle 4
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4.
Square 6
Triangle 1
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 1.
Triangle 2
With Color A, follow instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 1. Cut Color A.
With Color D, continue following the same instructions and repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 22 stitches remain on the right needle after final Row 1. Cut Color D.
With Color A, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 2.
Triangle 3
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 3, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 1 from SQUARE 5.
Triangle 4
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 11 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color C, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 4.
Finishing: Crib Size Only
If making the Crib size, weave in the ends and wet block. (If making the Throw size, continue with Squares 7-12.)
Square 7: Throw Size Only
Triangle 1
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 1, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 22 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color D, following the same instructions, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 18 stitches remain. Cut Color D.
With Color A, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 1.
Triangle 2
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 6.
Triangle 3
With Color C, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 3, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 11 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color C.
With Color A, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 3.
Triangle 4
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4.
Square 8
Triangle 1
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 1, picking up stitches along the edge of Triangle 3 from Square 7.
Triangle 2
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 5 and repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 31 stitches remain on the right needle after final Row 1. Cut Color A.
With Color B, following the same instructions, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 22 stitches remain on the right needle after final Row 1. Cut Color B.
With Color A, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 2.
Triangle 3
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 3, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 18 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color D, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 3.
Triangle 4
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4.
Square 9
Triangle 1
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 1, picking up stitches along the edge of Triangle 3 from Square 8.
Triangle 2
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 4.
Triangle 3
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 3.
Triangle 4
With Color C, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 27 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color A, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 4.
Square 10
Triangle 1
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 1, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 38 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color D, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 1.
Triangle 2
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 9.
Triangle 3
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 3, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 19 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color B, following the same instructions, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 15 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color B.
With Color A, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 3.
Triangle 4
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4.
Square 11
Triangle 1
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 1.
Triangle 2
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 8.
Triangle 3
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 3, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 1 from SQUARE 10.
Triangle 4
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 15 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color C, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 4.
Square 12
Triangle 1
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 1.
Triangle 2
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 7 and repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 31 stitches remain on right needle after final Row 1. Cut Color A.
With Color B, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 2.
Triangle 3
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 3, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 1 from SQUARE 11.
Triangle 4
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4.
Finishing
Weave in the ends, making sure to close the gaps where four squares meet. Wet block, if desired.
I am working on square 2. I have triangle 1 done. I’m stuck on triangle 2. I’m working Attached Squares Instruction. Attached Square 2. I understand picking up 45 sets along top edge of triangle 1. BUT then it says to turn blanket upside down and pickup 45 sets along the edge of triangle 4. Totally don’t get it, hubby doesn’t get it. Help please.
Hi Sandy,
Thanks for reaching out! For Attached Triangle 2 you will orient the piece with the right side facing you, and so that the cast-on edge of Triangle 1 is vertical, then pick up and knit 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 1. Once you have knit that you will once again orient the piece so that the right side facing you, and turn the blanket upside down so that the top edge is now the bottom edge, then you will pick up and knit another 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 4 of the Square indicated in the pattern, for you this would be the 1st square!
So basically you are picking up one edge of one square, and then the other edge of another square giving you the triangle!
I hope this clears things up, please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
So frustrating! Ok— the instructions say pick up and knit 45 stitches along edge of “triangle 1”. Is this triangle 1, square 2?
After turning counter clockwise, do i pick up stitches on triangle 4 Square 1?
If so, It would appear that knitting back and forth from this point would create a new triangle at the bottom of triangle 4, Square 1. That would not be triangle 2, square 2 according to the chart.
Hi Ann,
I’m sorry to hear that this pattern has been frustrating! I’d be happy to help clarify your questions. Are you working on Triangle 2 of Square 2 right now? If so, then yes, the instruction to pick up stitches would refer to Triangle 1 of Square 2!
I think there may be some confusion in the previous comment and reply between the Attached Triangle 2 instructions and the Basic Triangle 2 instructions. In Square 2, you will be working Basic Triangle 2, not Attached Triangle 2. You will not need to turn anything counterclockwise or attach anything to a Triangle 4! You will only begin working the Attached Triangle 2s on the second (and subsequent) rows of squares.
I hope this helps clarify things, and please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Lili
Aha! Thank you for clarifying! I see the difference now between “basic” and “attached. “. Thanks so much.
Hi! I have knit the first square successfully but am totally lost as to how to start the first attached square. I have cast on the 45 stitches but don’t know where I am supposed to cast on the next 45…the edge is too long for 45, so do I pick up and knit only halfway up? It’s driving me crazy, please help!
Hi Charlotte,
Thanks for reaching out! Since each triangle is made with 45 stitches on each side there should be exactly 45 stitches for you to pick up along each edge! If you are finding that the edges of your triangle is longer than 45 stitches, my best guess is that you may have added additional stitches leaving your edges too long or your are attempting to pick up stitches in the wrong area! Just to clarify so I can better assist you, have you finished the first square and are staring the second square or have you finished the first attached triangle of square 1 and are still working on square 1?
Looking forward to your response!
Gianna
Hi Gianna,
I’m in the same boat. I cast on 45 and picked up 45 stitches for Attached Triangle 1. I knit the set up row and placed the market. Row 1 has me confused I knit to the marker, etc. When I turn the work am I to continue to the rest of the cast on stitches, or are they hanging out by themselves? Or am I to continue across?
It seems that this creates one big triangle, with decreases up the middle.
Please help.
Lori
Hi Lori,
Thanks for reaching out. It actually sounds like you’re doing everything correctly! Once you turn the work on Row 1, you can ignore the rest of the stitches you haven’t knit yet. These stitches, positioned along the edge of the previous square, will be picked up 1 by 1, each time you repeat Row 1. This creates a line of decreases up the side of the attached triangle, where it’s connected to the previous square. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you!
Hi! I am stuck on square 5…I am a left handed knitter…does it make a difference following the pattern because I’m left handed? Fir some reason I cannot attach triangle 1 to triangle 4 of square 2! I was able to follow the directions for square 4 but now I’m totally stuck! Any support would be appreciated!
Hi Cheryl,
Thanks for writing in! There shouldn’t be any differences with the pattern for left handed knitters! This square overall isn’t much different from the others, so if you were able to complete the last square, this one wont be too different. Basically for Triangle 2 you will begin with Color A and will follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2, but you will be picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 2, this will be the connecting factor between square 5 to square 2. So I think the issue may be that you are actually not connecting triangle 1 to triangle 4 of square 2, but you are connecting triangle 2 to triangle 4 from square 2!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
I am having trouble with square three attached triangle one. It says”repeat Rows 1 & 2 until 36 stitches remain on right needle after FINAL ROW 1.” This is the first time I have seen the terminology “final row 1.” I have redone this triangle 3 times and it doesn’t looks right. The color work isn’t blending as seamlessly as it did for me on previous square. What exactly does final row one mean? Does it mean finish row one, turn your work and start or do I go ahead and finish row two out so I am starting color on the correct side?
Hi Laura,
Thanks for writing in! That is a bit confusing! I believe you should work rows 1 and 2 a final time so that you are switching colors on the right side of the fabric just as you have with the rest of the color change rows!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi, I am on square 4, triangle 2, and am trying to follow the instructions for attached triangle 2 – but I am totally lost as to what stitches to pick up – do I pick up from the long flat base of triangle 4 of square 3? I managed first 3 squares without any trouble. Thanks
Hi Hazel,
Thanks for reaching out! For triangle 2 of square 4, you will be picking up the stitches along the base of triangle 4 of square 3. This will be at the only exposed edge of the triangle (keep in mind the other two edges of that triangle are knit into the center of square 3!)
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Is there any reason why on square 4 triangle 2 we couldn’t just knit a basic triangle 2?
Hi Emmie,
Thanks for writing in. The reason you’ll need to knit an Attached Triangle 2 in Sqaure 4 is because this triangle is attached to the edge of Triangle 4 of Square 3! If you take a look at the LAYOUT SCHEMATIC for the blanket, you can get a better sense of which triangles are attached where. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I’m sorry if this question has already been answered. How could I adapt this pattern if I wanted to make this blanket in a single color? Thank you!
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for reaching out! If you wanted to make this blanket in a single color, the only adjustment you’d need to make would be to work with that same color throughout the pattern! You wouldn’t need to make any changes to the pattern itself.
Warmly,
Kelsey
How important is row gauge in this pattern? I am getting the same stitch gauge, but my row gauge is off.
Thanks!
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for reaching out! I would suggest blocking your swatch and then re-measuring your gauge, we determine all of our gauge measurements based on the blocked piece, so once you do that, you will be able to tell if you are closer to the gauge of the pattern or if you need to make any adjustments!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Can you suggest a color palette for a baby girl blanket in worsted twist yarn?
Thank you
Hi Ester,
Thanks for reaching out! I would love to recommend a palette for you, I suggest using Heirloom White as the main color and then using Mountain Rose, Purple Foxglove, and Buganvilla Pink for the accent colors!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I have just completed square 1 and do not understand how to proceed to square 2 triangle 1.
Why would I cast on 45 and then pick up the 45 stitches along the edge of triangle 3?
Can you clarify how to proceed with square 2 triangle 1
Thanks.
Marka
Hi Marka,
Thanks for writing in! You’ll need to cast on these extra stitches for that triangle specifically because of the way you have to join to square one. The first 45 stitches will be the set up for one edge of the triangle, while the ones you pick up will just align with the right side of square 1 on triangle 3 and ultimately attach the two squares. Once you get to the second triangle of square 2 it’ll be just like your previous triangles and won’t require that extra step.
Once you have 90 stitches total you’ll continue following the instructions for Attached Triangle 1, not the Basic Triangle, and complete the set up row: Set-Up Row (wrong side): K47, place marker (pm), knit to end of row.
Please let us know if any part of that is still confusing!
All the best,
Zha Zha
Can you help with Triangle 2 Square 2.
When you say to turn the blanket upside down and pick up stitches along the top edge of Triangle 4. Can you clarify which is Triangle 4. I see someone asked this question about but it is still not clear to me. When I am looking at Square 2 triangle one, is the first pick up instruction from the tip of the triangle up to the the top of the blanket and then what????
Hi Marka,
Thanks for reaching out! For square 2, triangle 2 you will be following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 2. You will start out with the right side of Triangle 1 from square 2 facing you. You will want it oriented so that the cast-on edge is vertical. From there you will pick up and knit 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 1. Once you pick up the 45 stitches you will work row 1 by knitting to the end of the row!
I hope this clears things up, happy knitting!
Gianna
The most confusing pattern I have ever knitted! My last project was a pattern translated from Norwegian to English. The accompanying videos were in Norwegian, no subtitles. That pattern was still easier to follow than this one. I’m stuck on square 2, triangle 3. I’m ready to pull my hair out and frog.
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! This pattern can be a bit confusing due to the layout, but once you have the steps down it is quite easy! For Square 2 Triangle 3 you will be following Basic Triangle 3 for the instructions. You will start off with the right side of the piece facing you and the picked-up edge oriented vertically. From there you will pick up and knit 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 2. Once you have the stitches picked up you will work Rows 1 and 2 (listed under Basic Triangle 3) until 1 stitch remains.
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Hello! I’m very confused by square 4, triangle 3. I have picked up 45 stitches on the top edge of triangle 2, the only free edge of triangle 2 (so the needle is now pointing to the outer edge of the blanket, I started picking up from the “centre” of the square so that the raw edge would be on the wrong side. I cannot seem to wrap my brain around how to get to now turn it 90 degrees and get triangle 1 to pick up 45 more stitches bc my needle is now facing the wrong way! Thank you
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for reaching out! I think you may be looking at the wrong set of instructions! For Square 4, Triangle 3 you will be following the instructions for Basic Triangle 3, for that, you will want to orient your work with the right side of the piece facing you and picked-up edge oriented vertically, you will then pick up and knit 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 2.
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Omigosh. Of course you are right, I was looking at the ATTACHED triangle 3. *blush. Thank you for your quick response 😊
Hello!
I was wondering if you get the Eggshell Blue colour in again.
Thanks
Hi Tina,
Thanks for reaching out! Eggshell Blue should be back in stock within the month! I would suggest adding your email on the product page under the Eggshell Blue color, from there we will send you an email as soon as it is back in stock!
Warmly,
Gianna
Thanks Gianna!
I could not find the Eggshell blue in the drop down list.
Also do you get new colours in?
Cheers Tina
Hi Tina,
Are you perhaps referring to Birds Egg Blue? If so, then that color is indeed in stock!
All the best,
Lili
Could I knit this with good wool? Also it’s so pretty but the comments make the pattern sound really tricky. I’m an experienced knitter. How difficult?
Thanks.
Suzi Kaplan
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! Good Wool is a bit thinner than Linen Quill Worsted, so you would need to adjust the gauge/needle size a bit. I would suggest starting out by working a gauge swatch on an appropriately sized needle, from there you can determine your adjustments.
I would consider this an intermediate pattern, so if you are an experienced knitter I don’t think you will have any problems, but if you encounter any issues you can reach out to us on here or directly to one of our customer service members at customerservice@purlsoho.com, we are happy to help!
I hope this helps!
Gianna
Good afternoon- I’m confused on the k2tog, slip1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle. Is this a typo? Should this be a sl, k2tog, and psso?
Hi Emmie,
Thanks for reaching out. The instructions “K2tog, slip 1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle” are written in this way because this is how the attached square “becomes attached” to the other square! It’s slightly different from what you might expect to see from a decrease that involves a psso, but that’s because it’s functioning in a different way. I can confirm that the pattern is correct as written though!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks Lili,
I had exactly the same question. Is there a video or a instruction on how to do that? When I do it, it does not look good. And it seems not to work.
Thanks for your help!
Tina
Hi Tina,
Thanks for writing in as well! I’m sorry to say that we don’t yet have a video tutorial for this stitch sequence. However, if you’re concerned that your project isn’t looking correct, then feel free to send us photos of your work so far at customerservice@purlsoho.com! That way, we can visualize what’s going on and troubleshoot further.
All the best,
Lili
Hello,
I’m doing Triangle 2 of Square 6; it is an attached triangle 2. Because the first two rows are knit in the background color, I’m getting a blip of the background color as the color D section attaches to the 4th triangle of Square 1. It doesn’t look good.
I’m wondering why this triangle instructs to use the background color for the first 2 rows. I didn’t have this problem before when i did Attached Triangle 2’s. Thanks for your help.
Hi Jane,
Thanks for reaching out. The reason that Square 6 begins with 2 rows in Color A is because Triangle 2 is made up of multiple colors, but the first 2 rows can only be worked in one color at a time. We picked Color A, rather than Color D, because it matched the color of the triangle it’s being attached to (Triangle 4 of Square 1)!
I believe the little blips of color you’re seeing are normal, and they’ll get less noticeable as the tension evens out after knitting more rows. But if you’re still concerned about it, feel free to send along a photo of your work to customerservice@purlsoho.com, and we’ll be happy to take a look!
All the best,
Lili
Hello! I am working on square 1, triangle 4. The seam connecting triangle 4 to triangle 1 looks sloppy! I am knitting to the last stitch, slipping that stitch knitwise to the right needle, picking up the next stitch from triangle 1, and passing the slipped stitch over it, but I don’t like how it’s turning out!
Hi Veronica,
Thanks for reaching out. This seam does indeed look different from the other seams! It will look a bit odd for the first couple rows, but it will even out as you knit more rows. It sounds like you’re doing the steps correctly, but if you’re still concerned with how your seam is looking after a few more rows, feel free to send a photo of your work to customerservice@purlsoho.com so that we can visualize the issue!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you Lilli,– I did pull it out and start over–I decided to carry the yarn to the back of the work prior to slipping the last stitch. It seems to look a bit better so far.
Veronica
Hi
I am working on Square 6, Triangle 2. I am very confused and have frogged 3 times. The instructions sat “With Color A, follow Set-up Row instructions for Triangle 4 from Square 1, Cut Color A.
1. How does Triangle 1 for Square 6 get attached to the square if I am to start at the Set-up Row?
2. How does Square 6 get attached to Square 1 if I am supposed to start at the Set-up Row?
Thank you
Chris L
Hi Chris,
Thanks for reaching out. It looks like the instructions for Square 6 Triangle 2 actually read, “With Color A, follow the Set-Up Row instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 1. Cut Color A.” For reference, the Set-Up Row for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2 is as follows:
Set-Up Row (wrong side): K47, place marker (pm), knit to end of row.
This row functions to introduce the new yarn and create the live stitches! You’ll begin attaching Triangle 2 from Square 6 to Triangle 4 from Square 1 on the following row, Row 1. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you for the clarification. Unfortunately, I still have questions:
1. In the instructions for Attached Triangle 2, do I ignore the first two lines:
“With right side facing you, orient the cast-on edge of Triangle 1….” and
“With the right side facing you, turn the blanket upside down…”
2. If I do ignore those, on which triangle am I K47?
I have absolutely loved this project up to this point. But I have come to a screeching halt.
Kind regards,
Chris Lindauer
Hi Chris,
Thanks for checking back in about this! I think I misinterpreted your previous question a bit, but you raise a good point. You will definitely need to work the first two lines of ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2 for this triangle in SQAURE 6 before working the Set-Up Row. I’ve passed along your question to our design team as well, and they’ll look into changing the instructions here to make this clearer!
All the best,
Lili
I also struggled with this because the pattern makes it sound like you should cut yarn A AFTER picking up stitches along triangle 4 of Square one before the wrong side set up row. I kept hesitating because pattern says to always change color on the right side…needless to say I knit it a few times before trusting my gut about changing on the right side only to avoid the blips.
Overall I have really enjoyed knitting this. I love the challenge of the joining and the results of how it seams together. I will be knitting it again!
Hello, the attached Triangle One indicates to knit to marker, slip marker, and continue. The other attached triangles indicate: Knit to marker, k2tog, slip 1 (etc). Should there be a slip marker between knit to marker and K2tog? Thanks!
Hi Alison,
Thank you so much for reaching out, and yes, you will be slipping your marker between the Knit to marker and K2tog! The pattern in this section reads as follows: Row 1 (right side): Knit to marker, slip marker (sm), k2tog, slip 1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off the needle. Turn work. [2 stitches decreased] For row 2, you will be removing the marker and placing it again.
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Carly
I made this blanket in Tulip cotton. What is the best way to block it? I was thinking to machine wash cold/gentle and shape/ dry flat.
Also, I have 4 skeins of one color left over. Can I return them?
Hi Veronica,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m so happy to hear you’ve completed your Windy Day Blanket! The recommended care instructions for Tulip Cotton are to machine wash cold and tumble dry low, but you can lay your blanket flat to dry too if you prefer.
You are also more than welcome to return yarn to us as long as it is unwound and in its original condition. You can read more about our return policy here!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Carly
Hi there! I am working on Square 6, Triangle 2. I am super confused about which colour to use for picking up stitches and when to switch colour. Should all 90 stitches be picked up in Colour A? And is the set-up row also knit in Colour A? Do you then move to Colour D when you start Row 1 for the first time? Thank you for any guidance you can provide. I am really enjoying this project so far!!
Hi Sarah!
Thank you for writing in! The first triangle is cast on with the color you will be using for that triangle (Color A), and then the next triangle is created by picking up stitches (with Color B) along the edge of the first triangle. Whenever you pick up stitches, you will be doing so with the color you will be using for the next triangle. We also recommend always picking up stitches on the right side of the blanket, so that the color join seams are consistently placed along the wrong side of the blanket, too!
I hope this helps, and please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi there,
thank you for this beautiful and engaging pattern. I am stuck at Square 3 Triangle 1. When I am about to start Color C, will this be done at the beginning of a right side row or a wrong side row? I understand it like the latter but then there would be the ‚bad‘ side of the color change showing on the right side?
Thanks for your help & greetings from Germany,
Kerstin
Hi Kerstin,
Thanks for your question! The color change row between colors A and D on square 3 will be knit on the right side of the fabric. After repeating rows 1 and 2 until 36 stitches remain, you will knit the next right side row with color D.
I hope this helps, and please let us know if you have any further questions!
All the best,
Carly
Hi Carly,
I also have a question about this section and when to change colors. I think I’m confused on when to count the 36 stitches (and which stitches we’re counting). The instructions say “until 36 stitches remain on right needle after final Row 1.” But is that 36 stitches on the right needle before turning (where we’re working the stitches that were cast on) or the right needle after turning (where the stitches that were picked up live)?
Thanks so much for your help!
Hi Carly,
Thank you for writing in! In a previous version of this pattern, we had written the instruction as follows:
With Color A, following the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 1, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 36 stitches remain on right needle after final Row 1. Cut Color A.
This was slightly more clear, since it indicated that you were counting your stitches after finishing a Row 1 (so that your stitches are still divided by needle), then knitting the final repeat of Row 2, and then cutting Color A. We’ve added this back to the updated pattern in order to avoid confusion!
So as you knit, I’d recommend counting the number of stitches you have on your right needle after finishing a Row 1. Once you have 36 stitches, then it will be time to knit one more row (Row 2), and then cut your yarn! Alternatively, you could count the repeats of Rows 1 and 2–you’ll need to repeat these rows a total of 8 times (so, 7 more times after the initial time through them) before switching colors.
Hope this helps clear things up and improve the pattern!
Warmly,
Gavriella
Hello
I am very interested to make this blanket but tried to order the yarn. Unfortunately I couldn’t find the dandelion yellow or the super orange 😟
Can you recommend other color combinations to replace these two colors or when these two colors will be available 🤔
Thanks and looking forward to your response 😊
Hi Mayling,
Thanks for writing in. I’m so sorry to say that we’ve discontinued Linen Quill Worsted in Dandelion Yellow and Super Orange. While we loved these colors, not everybody else felt the same way, so we’ve had to make the sad decision to stop producing them. We hope you can understand!
As alternatives, I think that the colors Red Poppy and Turmeric Yellow would still fit the color palette very nicely. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi there- do you have instructions for the I-cord border? Thanks much!
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for reaching out. I think that adding an i-cord border to this pattern is a great idea! If you’d like to do so, I’d recommend taking a look at our Attached I-Cord tutorial. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Just getting started on my 2nd Windy Day blanket – but I’m struggling with the 4th triangle in the first square. I saw two other questions about this problem – but didn’t see an answer. I’m picking up the 45 stitches on the top edge of the 3rd triangle as instructed. When I start picking up one stitch on the 1st triangle at the end of each row 1, I’m getting a very messy join. The “pass over” stitch is loose and there is a “bump” running along the join between triangle one and four. Do you know what might be causing this? Thanks so much for your help.
Hi Jan,
Thanks for reaching out. This seam does indeed look different from the other seams, since it’s created with a completely different technique! It will look a bit odd for the first couple rows, but it will even out as you knit more rows. It sounds like you’re doing the steps correctly, but if you’re still concerned with how your seam is looking after a few more rows, feel free to send a photo of your work to customerservice@purlsoho.com so that we can visualize the issue! We also have a photo tutorial of this process in our Knit Four Points Blanket pattern, if you’d like to check that out.
All the best,
Lili
Thanks so much!
My daughter would really like me to make this blanket for her high school graduation this spring. I am concerned it is over my skill level. Picking up stitches is a new skill for me, but I am willing to learn don’t want to be frustrated by the process however. Would you recommed maybe the Prism pattern as a better first step in this level of knitting?
Hi Jill,
Thanks for reaching out. We always want to encourage people to discover that learning new techniques enriches the process of making! Since picking up stitches is a new skill for you, I’d recommend taking a look at our tutorial on it and practicing with some scrap yarn. Once you feel more comfortable with this technique, then the Windy Day Blanket (and the Prism Blanket) might not feel as daunting of a project!
All the best,
Lili
How do I start triangle 1 on square 4?
Hi Pam,
Thanks for your comment! To being Triangle 1 on Square 4, just follow the instructions for Basic Triangle 1 and knitting with Color A! These instructions are located under the Basic Square Instructions. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Cat
Hi, I’m working on the first Attached Triangle 1 and I’m confused by the instructions for row 1. Do I really slip an open stitch off the needle? It unravels immediately if I do. Please, I would be so grateful if you could clarify! Thank you, Sara
Hi Sara,
Thanks for reaching out. On this row, you will be passing a stitch over another stitch and off the needle. It’s actually the same exact procedure you do when binding off! So it will not unravel, since it’s locked around that other stitch it was passed over. You can view a demonstration of a very similar technique in our Join As You Knit tutorial. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hello!
I am knitting square three and the last triangle seems to be bigger than the others.
I read once in this thread comments that you recommended to go a size down on a needle but I could not find that comment anymore.
Is that true? Or does it depend on how consistently I am knitting.
Thanks for your help!
Cheers Tina
Hi Tina,
That’s an interesting problem to encounter! Normally, we would recommend using smaller needles if your gauge is too big, but it sounds like your gauge has been consistent throughout the pattern, and it’s only gotten bigger on this latest triangle. This may point to something else going on that would require a different solution! Would you be able to send a photo of your work to customerservice@purlsoho.com? That way, we can visualize exactly what’s going on!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks Lili!
I have Square 1 complete, but I’m so confused by attached triangle 1. I cast on 45 stitches and picked up 45, then when I followed the instructions, I think maybe I was just knitting the part I was supposed to be ignoring? Because I just got a long rectangle! Do you “work” the cast on stitches and ignore the picked up stitches (this is what I did) OR do you “work” the picked up stitches and ignore the cast on? I just don’t get how this makes a triangle! Any info would be helpful! If there’s any way you guys could create a video tutorial for this, it would be so, so helpful!!
Hi Zoe,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you may be missing the k2tog decrease on Row 1 of Attached Triangle 1. This is an important stitch because it decreases the stitch count by 1 every other row, which creates the triangular shape. The way you described what you’re doing otherwise (working the coast-on stitches and ignoring the picked-up stitches) sounds correct, so I think once you start working the decrease you should start to see the triangular shape appear!
If you’re still not seeing what you expect, then I’d recommend sending a picture of your work to customerservice@purlsoho.com. That way, we’ll be able to visualize exactly what’s going on!
All the best,
Lili
I have bight coloured yarn left from the library blanket and would like to use the dual colour of Linen Quill and Line Weight as the colour accents in the pattern. Can you suggest another wool for the main colour that would be the appropriate weight to use with that double yarn
Hi Rebecca,
That’s a great way to use up your leftover yarn! If you’d like to match the background color in the original design, then I’d recommend using Linen Quill in Pale Oats held together with Line Weight in Heirloom White. This way you’ll also maintain a uniform texture across the blanket, since all the yarn will match!
All the best,
Lili
Hello!
How can I make this throw a bigger size? Is it possible?
Best wishes,
Chrysi
Hi Chrysi,
Thanks for reaching out! This pattern can be a bit tricky to modify the size of, but it’s definitely possible. The easiest way to do so, and still maintain the same exact proportions of all the color sections, would be to use a thicker yarn and knit the blanket at a larger gauge.
If you want to stick with the same yarn and gauge though, there are two other options: First, you could add extra squares along each edge. You’d need to either repeat the color sequence of a previous square for this or create you own though, but this is a good option if you’re feeling extra creative! Second, you could cast on more stitches for each triangle, but this takes a lot of extra calculating, and I wouldn’t recommend it unless you’ve had a lot of experience modifying patterns in the past.
I hope this helps give you some options for your blanket project!
All the best,
Lili
Happy new Year☺️ Love the windy blanket❤️ If I want to make it 15 or 18 squares long, how should I proceed? Thank you só much!
Hi BeeMaia,
Thank you so much for writing in! I’d just like to confirm the dimensions of the yardage you are requesting. Are you looking to make the full blanket with 15 squares or a total column of 15 squares long? Once you share that information with me, we can help get you a rough estimate of the yarn you would need!
All the best,
Gavriella
Thank you so much for your care Gavriella ☺️ I was wondering about a 15 (3×5) or 18 (3×6) square blanket… I want to knit it bigger than the biggest size of the pattern. My question is not regarding the yardage; my concern is about the “attached” vs “basic” triangles to knit the extra squares, as I do not quite follow the reason behind knitting the basic or attached triangles to make the full square.
Thank you so much,
Ana
Hi BeeMaria,
Thanks for that extra information! The first set of triangles are named ‘Basic Triangles’ as they set up the foundation column of the blanket. In this case, if you want to make the blanket taller, you will simply knit an additional ‘Basic Triangle’ to lengthen your project. The Basic Triangles are worked to create your first long strip of squares before moving on to the ‘Attached Triangle’ section where you will be knitting on multiple sides of each square rather than just the tops or bottoms. I hope this helps clear up how to complete your blanket but please let me know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Dear Gavriella, this is cristal clear! Thank you so much for your care in the response☺️
Hi, I’d like to make a crib sized blanket for a baby girl. Can you recommend a washable yarn and colors using this pattern? Thank you.
Hi Sharon,
We are so happy to hear you will be making a new gift for a little one! I would recommend checking out Anzula For Better or Worsted or our Serif Cotton yarn which would also bring amazing texture to your project! I hope this help but let us know if you have any more questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hi,
I just completed the crib size blanket and I was wondering how to secure the knots and weave in the yarn ends that it shouldn’t open.
Hi CS,
That’s a great question! You can see our in-depth tutorial for weaving in your ends here. I occasionally find it helpful to felt my ends as well for extra security after weaving them in, especially for larger projects like blankets! I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella