Julie Hoover For Purl Soho: Gibson
Julie Hoover is back! One of our favorite knitwear designers, Julie is known for her pared-down style, attention to detail, and eye for sweaters we all want to wear. For her Gibson pullover, Julie taps into all these talents and more!
Designed especially for Purl Soho, the Gibson is all about feeling good being casual. Dressing to the nines may give some of us a burst some of the time, but an everyday hand-knit sweater with refined details and flattering considerations makes all of us feel good all the time!
A modified drop shoulder construction, you knit this sweater flat from the bottom up, then sew the pieces together. You pick up stitches around the neckline and knit the collar in the round, incorporating a casing for the I-cord drawstring and tacking down the finished collar to the inside.
And all these warm and natural tones? They come from our undyed Sweetgrass, a gorgeous blend of organic cotton and superfine alpaca. The finished fabric is light and airy, soft and cozy, and the finished sweater is what Julie always delivers… Exactly what we want to wear!
Update: Gibson In Linen Quill
March 31, 2021
Julie’s original Gibson is knit in undyed Sweetgrass with a few well-placed stripes. It’s totally beautiful, but we thought, what about a big splash of color? What about Linen Quill and its choice of 55 gorgeous colors?! Okay! We followed the pattern just how it’s written, except omitted the stripes, opting instead for a solid swath of beautiful color. We chose Red Poppy, a warm burst of happiness, just like the one we’re feeling for spring! To see more, click here!
Designed for Purl Soho by Julie Hoover. Currently based in Ann Arbor, Michigan, Julie Hoover designs knitwear and makes yarn, for both her own personal label and others. Her work reflects a lifelong passion for clothing and textiles, and her view that knitting is a beautiful way of creating timeless fashion, a thoughtful mix of quality and creativity, intention and care.
Share your progress + connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoGibson, and #PurlSohoSweetgrass. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
Purl Soho’s Sweetgrass, 65% organic cotton, 35% superfine alpaca, undyed. Each skein is approximately 437 yards/100 grams.
- Color A: 2 skeins; approximately 590 (635, 715, 770, 815, 830, 870, 865) yards required. We used Walnut Shell.
- Color B: 1 skein; approximately 27 (30, 32, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46) yards required. We used Beech Bark.
- Color C: 1 skein; approximately 180 (190, 205, 225, 240, 260, 275, 295) yards required. We used Heirloom White.
- Color D: 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 4) skeins; approximately 625 (690, 755, 825, 965, 1065, 1195, 1345) yards required. We used Pale Sesame.
You will also need…
- US 3 (3.25 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- US 3, 24-inch circular needles
- US 2 (3 mm), 24-inch circular needles
- US 1 (2.5 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- Two US 3 double pointed needles
- A cable stitch holder
- Stitch markers
- 4 locking markers
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- Blocking wires & T-pins (optional, but recommended)
- A Gibson Pattern
NOTE: Looking to knit your sleeves in double-time? Swap the double pointed needles for 32-inch or longer circular needles, and check out our Magic Loop: Two At A Time Tutorial!
Gauge
25 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch using largest needles
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
36½ (40½, 44, 48, 52, 55½, 59½, 64)
To fit actual chest circumference of 30–33 (34–37, 38–41, 42–45, 46–49, 50–53, 54–57, 58–61) inches, with approximately 3–6 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 36½ (40½, 44, 48, 52, 55½, 59½, 64) inches
- Finished Length From Shoulder To Bottom Edge: 24¾ (25, 26½, 27, 29, 29½, 31, 31½) inches
- Finished Length From Underarm To Bottom Edge: 13 (13, 14, 14, 15, 15, 16, 16) inches
- Finished Length From Underarm To Cuff: 17 (17, 17, 17, 16½, 16, 16, 15½) inches
- Length From Center Neck To Cuff: 28¼ (29, 30, 31, 31½, 32, 33, 33½) inches
- Length From Shoulder To Underarm: 11¾ (12, 12½, 13, 14, 14½, 15, 15½) inches
Sample: The sweater shown here is Size 40½ inches worn with 6½ inches of ease.
Pattern
The Gibson Pattern is available for purchase as a PDF download only.
I like this pattern a lot but I tend to look better in brighter colors. Do you have a suggestion for an equivalent yarn with more colorful options? Thanks in advance.
Hi Lyneisa,
Great question! I would recommend using Linen Quill! It comes in a huge palette full of beautiful colors, and is the correct weight for the pattern.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Love this! Does this pattern have men’s size proportions (shoulders, chest, etc) available?
Thanks you!
Hi Michelle,
Thank you so much for the kind words! Like many of our designs, this sweater is a unisex design that can be worn by anyone! As long as you choose a size with enough ease, the relaxed drop shoulders of this sweater should accommodate most mens’ shoulders comfortably. I would recommend going by the wearer’s chest circumference and choosing a size that is 4 to 8 inches larger, depending on how loose they likes their sweaters to fit. You may also want to adjust the length of the body and sleeves depending on their height – if you aren’t sure, you could measure a sweater that they already own and like the fit of to see how it compares to our given measurements in the Sizes section of the pattern.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
How hard is this pattern? If you’ve never knit a sweater before?
Hi Nicole,
Great question! This sweater does include quite a few techniques that may be new to you, depending on what kinds of projects you have made before, but I’m happy to describe everything so you can decide if it’s something you are ready for! Gibson is knit flat in stockinette stitch and includes right and left lifted increases, right and left leaning double decreases, picking up stitches, and seaming. You will also have to follow two sets of instructions at once – for instance, decreasing for the neckline and armhole shaping at the same time. We have tutorials for most of these techniques on our Knitting Tutorials page, and we are always here to help if you run into questions!
Best,
Julianna
I love this! But I am allergic to wool, what yarn would you recommend?
Hi Mignonne,
Thanks so much for the kind words and for reaching out! Fortunately, Sweetgrass contains no wool at all! It is a blend of organic cotton and superfine alpaca, which most people with wool allergies can tolerate just fine since it comes from a different animal. If you prefer, you could use Cattail Silk as an animal-fiber-free substitute!
Best,
Julianna
I love this sweater and have time to make it now that I am home the next month! Can you tell me the best way to measure myself to have it fit as in the photos ? It looks like the perfect fit- not to tight and not too big. Thank you!
Hi Janna,
Thank you so much for the kind words! Our model is wearing a size with 6 1/2 inches of positive ease, meaning the actual sweater measures 6 1/2 inches more at the chest than her actual chest measurement. To get a similar result, you will first measure your chest at the largest point, preferably wearing a thin shirt to get an exact measurement, and then choose a size that is about 6 1/2 inches larger than your measurement. All of the sizes of our sweaters are given as the finished chest measurement, which makes it quite easy to choose your preferred amount of ease!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I love this but am not good at color mixing. Any chance you could put some color ideas on here for those of us that need help?
Hi Tina,
Thanks for reaching out! I would be happy to suggest some color combinations! Is there a particular color or theme that you would like to base your sweater around?
Best,
Julianna
I would love some help with alternative color ideas too! I’m open so would love to play around with some ideas – Maybe something in the grey / blue color family? Or, totally different, something with pinks?
Hi Kelly,
Of course, I think both themes sound lovely! Linen Quill comes in a wonderful selection of colors to choose from, and for a grey/blue sweater, I would recommend Gray Denim, Mountain Bluebird, Blue Jean, and Stillwater Blue. I really like the idea of a neutral sweater with a few pops of pink! Pale Mushroom, Peony Pink, Bright Flamingo, and Twig Brown would be really exciting and beautiful together.
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
What are the colors and distribution used in the alternative colorway? Hard to tell from computer screen exactly which is which. bottom to top – Walnut shell, Beach Bark, Pale Sesame, Rye Flour??
Hi Elaine,
Thanks for reaching out! At this time we don’t have any alternate colorways put together. From bottom to top, we used Walnut Shell, Beech Bark, Heirloom White, and Pale Sesame, but using Pale Sesame and Rye Flour as colors C and D would be equally lovely!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
My son likes this pattern and I’m wondering how difficult it is?
Hi and thanks for reaching out! We don’t rate the difficulty of our patterns because we want people to feel free to try things that are “too hard” for them; we want to encourage people to discover that learning new techniques enriches the process of making; and we don’t want to put people in a box that says, “You can make this but not this.” However, I’m happy to describe everything so you can decide if it’s something you are ready for!
Gibson is knit flat in stockinette stitch and includes right and left lifted increases, right and left leaning double decreases, picking up stitches, and seaming. You will also have to follow two sets of instructions at once – for instance, decreasing for the neckline and armhole shaping at the same time. We have tutorials for most of these techniques on our Knitting Tutorials page, and we are always here to help if you run into questions!
Best,
Julianna
I am having trouble with with cast on directions. Do I have to do the cable and purl cast on or can I just do a regular cast on. Thanks for any advice!
Hi Kris,
Thanks for reaching out! While alternating the knit and purl cast on creates a slightly smoother edge, you could certainly substitute a Long Tail Cast On or an all-knit Cable Cast On if you prefer!
Best,
Julianna
I can’t wait to knit this pattern! But I have a question about slipping stitches at the beginning of every row as it directs in the pattern. After knitting my gauge swatch I noticed the selvedge edge stitches looking big and loopy and thought it might cause problems for seaming. When I researched online it said slipped stitch selvedges are generally not recommended for edges that will be seamed. These edges in the Gibson pattern will be seamed so I’m confused as to why a slipped stitch edge was chosen for this pattern. Is there a way to seam a slipped stitch edge that will give you just as neat of a seam as you would get if you didn’t slip the stitches? Thanks for your help!
Hi Alex,
Great question! As you have found, there are two schools of thought regarding slipped stitch selvages and seaming knit pieces. Julie Hoover always includes a slip stitch edging in her patterns, whether they are seamed or not, and she finds this to be a great way to have a tidy edge both while you are knitting the separate pieces and after seaming. However, if you are finding that you don’t like the look of the slipped stitch edging or if you are struggling with it, you could certainly omit it! You might want to try out both methods by knitting two swatches, with a slipped stitch edging on one side and a regular edging on the other, and seam together the two sets of edges to see which you prefer.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I love this pattern and your choice of yarn!
Is there a tutorial on picking up the stitches for the casing?
I threaded my waste yarn purlwise on the right side. Should I have done it on the wrong side ? The waste yarn is not showing up to pick up the stitches to form the casing.
Thank you.
Kathryn
Hi Kathryn,
That’s a great question! Unfortunately, we don’t currently have the resources to create a video tutorial for this technique, but I will certainly pass your request along to the creative team. You did insert the lifeline the correct way, but it can be a little hard to see. The lifeline should look like tiny running stitches on the wrong side of the knitting. You may need to place your hand on the right side and gently stretch the neck while you pick up the corresponding stitches. Always make sure to use a contrasting yarn for your lifelines, this helps you identify the correct stitches later. We are so glad you are enjoying the pattern and yarn! I hope this helps, and please reach out again if you have any more questions!
Happy knitting
Jessica
Hi,
I need help. I bought the pattern and the skins, but I can’t find the pattern in my IPad. If it was send via email let me know.
Thank you for your great service.
Sincerely,
Irma
Hi Irma,
Thanks for writing in! To download a copy of your pattern, all you need to do is log in to your account at purlsoho.com, via the “My Account” link at the bottom of the page. After you are logged in, on the left side of your screen, you will find a link to “My Pattern PDFs,” where you can download any pattern you have purchased from us!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hello New York! Hope you all are well. I’m about to get back to Gibson, which was put on pause while I worked on “Sweater In The Time of Coronavirus” (Shibui, Clark), and I’m looking forward to the pale colors of my Gibson. My question is about the casing and drawstring at the collar. I am going to keep the collar but want to eliminate the drawstring, because it’s unlikely I would ever draw it up, AND the collar is so pretty, just as it is. Any special things I should do or not do when I get to that point?
And I hope you, your staff, and your shop are all staying safe.
Patrice
Hi Patrice,
Thank you so much for your kind words and concern! Fortunately, our staff and shop are all safe, and we are so thankful for the outpouring of support from our customers! Even without the actual drawstring, I would recommend creating the drawstring casing, as it adds shape and body to the collar and keeps the edge from curling. To omit the eyelets, all you have to do is substitute a two plain knit rounds for Eyelet Round 1 and 2, and follow the rest of the collar instructions as written.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Perfect–thanks! Definitely, it’s the way that the collar sits that I want to maintain.
pk
Hi, I have the Gibson pattern and I’m not sure whether to knit it in Sweetgrass or Linen Quill. My questions: are both yarns soft and non itchy? Do they knit up into very similar fabric , ie drape? Is Linen Quill warmer would you say (cold UK climate)than Sweetgrass? Also could you recommend neutral colours in Linen Quill which are similar to those used in the Gibson pattern in case I go for that. Many thanks.
Hi Jinny,
Great question! Linen Quill has a somewhat rustic texture, but thanks to the alpaca content, is plenty soft for next-to-skin wear. Head to head, I think Sweetgrass would be less rough and less likely to feel itchy because it is mostly cotton, but Linen Quill will definitely make for a much warmer sweater. Both yarns have almost the same yardage so you will still need the same number of skeins for your size, and I would recommend the following shades of Linen Quill to get as close as possible to the original colors:
Color A: Twig Brown
Color B: Trout Brown or Stillwater Blue
Color C: Pale Oats
Color D: Wheat Flour
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Thanks Julianna, that’s very helpful.
I have completed my Gibson (and I LOVE it!), and since I enjoy browsing the Q & A you post for your patterns, I have just seen a question that I dealt with when I was working the collar: having difficulty seeing my lifeline. I used a white yarn for my lifeline, which was indeed too pale to be able to see on the WS. I tried initially to pick up with no “tricks,” but I was getting an irregular line of stitches. I took out the couple of inches I had worked of the collar K2tog row, and instead, inserted a very small circular needle (I might have used a #1) in approximately every other stitch on the WS. Before I began the K2tog step, I counted my “stitches” on my #1 needle and had only one extra. So as I worked that row of the pattern, I only had one extra stitch to work as a k3tog. It all worked out well, looks very even and regular. Thanks for a lovely project!
I love this sweater but would love to make it in wool. Can you give me some suggestions?
Hi Sue,
Thanks for reaching out! I think this sweater would be absolutely gorgeous in Brooklyn Tweed Loft! If you don’t mind a wool blend, Linen Quill would be another wonderful option.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I just saw this pattern. I have a question about the yarn/colors used for the photo in which there is no model, just the sweater. The colors look much darker than in the other photos. The bottom section particularly doesn’t look like any of the Sweetgrass color photos. Was this one done with different yarn? If so, what? and what colors? (I like the darker colors better than the ones used in the other photos.) 🙂
Hi June,
Thanks for reaching out! Although the colors do seem a little different due to the contrast and lighting, these are pictures of the exact same sweater in Sweetgrass! It’s always a little difficult to judge colors online since everyone’s monitor is different, but I would say that the pictures of the sweater without the model are probably more true to the actual colors of the yarn. You might want to take a look at the images for our Sand Drift Blanket Bundle, as those also show how the different colors of Sweetgrass look when used together!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thanks. I’m glad to hear that you think the colors of the yarn in the sweater without the model are more true to the colors of the yarn. The walnut and pale sesame were what I was concerned about. Will take a chance! Thank you.
and great pattern, thanks!
Could you make the sweater out of sweetgrass with the exception of the small stripe and use a pop of linen quill color?
Hi Renee,
Great question! What an exciting idea! Sweetgrass and Linen Quill knit up to almost the exact same gauge, but even if your gauge is slightly different, using Linen Quill for one of the narrow stripes won’t affect the fit of the sweater. I think this sounds like a wonderful way to add a tiny bit of color!
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Hi, I have just purchased this pattern and am doing the measurements. I notice there is a 12 stitch difference between the first two sizes. I would like to acheive 38.5″ so if I used 140 sts will I have a problem when I come to the shaping?
Also are there any corrections to this pattern.
I am using Concept by Katia in Silky Lace.
Hi Patricia,
Thanks for reaching out! I think that should work out, as long as you keep an even number of stitches you shouldn’t have any problems with the shaping down the line!
Please feel free to reach out with any more questions!
Gianna
Hi, I prefer to knit flat and stitch the pieces together. Reason – I cannot get a neat join when knitting in the round, so my question is, are the sleeves knit flat or in the round?
Hope New York is beating the virus, I’m in Melbourne, Australia and tomorrow we come out of lockdown WOOO HOOO!
Stay safe everyone
Hi Tami,
Thanks for reaching out! The sleeves for this pattern are knit flat, not in the round!
All the best,
Gianna
I am having a brain block..
When knitting the front and at the ** to stop at 130 st…i am confused in gow to proceed. . do I perform 3 decreases right away… do I still get to the. 13 total inches before armhole?
Hi Renee,
Thanks for reaching out! For the front you are following the instructions for the BACK until ** (you have 130 stitches remaining) you then go straight into the next step which is: Continuing in stockinette stitch, repeat Shoulder Single Decrease Row every right-side row 3 more times. (124 stitches remain) and then continue on with the rest of the instructions for the FRONT.
I hope this clarifies things!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello Gianna,
I’ve been knitting a few of your patterns already and I’ve become addicted to them. I’ve learnt so much from your videos as well! Thanks for you work.
I’m stuck exactly where Renée was stuck and I still don’t understand until where to proceed in the same way as with the back since I can’t find the stage when you’re left with
118/130 /142 etc… stitches remaining when working on the back section. Am I being clear? Not so sure but if you can help, I’d be very grateful.
Hi Juliette,
Thanks for reaching out, and thank you for your kind words! You’ll need to keep an eye out for the double asterisk (**) symbol. When you’re working the Front section, you will just follow the instructions for the Back, until you see **. Then, you’ll move onto the rest of the instructions for the Front! For reference, the ** occurs on the second line of the SHAPE SHOULDERS + NECKLINE section, which I’ll copy below:
Next Row (wrong side): K1, purl to last stitch, k1. **
I hope this helps clarify things more!
All the best,
Lili
I am currently stuck on the instructions for the front. I am knitting a size 48 and have worked until 146 stitches remain. Instructions for the next row state: K2, D2R, k50, slip these 53 stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn for Left Shoulder, bind off next 34 stitches for neck, knit to last 6 stitches, D2L, k2 [53 stitches remain for Right Shoulder].
On this row, I knit 2, completed a double decrease right, and knit 50 stitches, leaving 54 stitches on my right needle to be placed on scrap yarn (not 53). If I bind off the next 34, and then knit to the last 6 stitches, complete another double decrease right and knit 2 more, I will be left with 1 additional stitch.
146 – 2 (k2) – 4 (d2r) – 50 = 90
90 – 34 (bind off) = 56
56 after subtracting the d2r decrease leaves 54
If I follow the instructions, I’m left with 54 on either shoulder and 34 for the collar bind off. I revisited the instructions for the collar in the back and everything adds up. Am I reading the instructions incorrectly?
Hello,
Thanks for reaching out with your question!
I’ve checked over the the Front section of the pattern and have noticed that you’re working a double decrease stitch after the k2, instead of working a k2tog. This might be what is changing your stitch count and leaving you with 54 stitches on each shoulder! The pattern instructions in this section are as follows:
Next Row (right side): K2, k2tog, k50, slip these 53 stitches onto a stitch holder or scrap yarn for Left Shoulder, bind off next 38 stitches for neck, knit to last 4 stitches, ssk, k2. 53 stitches remain for Right Shoulder.
The “K2, k2tog, k50” will make up the 53 shoulder stitches that are placed on hold, then you will bind off another 38 stitches, and be left with 54 stitches to work the other shoulder (after the ssk, you will have 53 stitches for this shoulder too).
I hope this explanation helps! Please feel free to write in again with any questions!
All the best,
Carly
Hi. I want to try this pattern but would like to use Quartz instead of the Linen Quill or Sweetgrass. I see the gauge is slightly finer. Would you have any suggestions, like using a larger needle?
Hi Cynthia!
Thank you for asking. Quartz would be an excellent substitute for this sweater, since it is also a fingering weight blend of wool and alpaca! As always, we highly suggest making a gauge swatch, especially when substituting yarns to make sure your finished project will turn out as intended. If you are interested in learning more about how to make and use a gauge swatch, we have a handy tutorial called All About Gauge!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi! I purchased the Gibson pattern and sweet grass yarn when the pattern first came out but just started it not long ago. I am working the back and I am up to where the bind-off starts for the sleeves. I am making the 55 1/2 size which at that point has 174 sts. Then the next two rows bind off 6 at the beginning so a total of 12 sts reduced but the pattern says I should have 154 sts after the first 2 bind off rows. What am I missing? I can’t find any errata for the pattern. I also checked on Ravelry and on Julie’s page but didn’t find anything.
Hi Christine,
Thank you so much for reaching out about this! You’re totally right, the stitch counts are incorrect at this point, and this error hasn’t been caught until now, so this is the very first errata! The correct stitch counts right after the two rows of sleeve bind-offs should be: 152, 162, 172, 184 (for the 4 sizes in this section, respectively).
We’re working on updating the pattern PDF, and once that’s complete, you can re-download it from your Purl Soho account to access the updated version. Thank you again for bringing this to our attention, we really appreciate your keen eye!
All the best,
Lili
Hello! What a gorgeous sweater, looking forward to cast this on.
Wondering if anyone has inquired on adding a hood to this sweater for a hoodie look? Any thoughts or suggestions?
Hi Janna,
Thank you for writing in! Although that sounds like a lovely idea, I am afraid these kinds of modifications are outside of the support we can offer at this time. You might be able to find a tutorial just for this specific modification on YouTube or by searching google. I am sorry we could not assist with this but if you have any other questions, please let us know.
All the best,
Gavriella