Big Brioche Turtleneck
Knit up in our 100% undyed Big Good Wool from the Andean highlands, our Big Brioche Turtleneck will keep you warm and cozy whether you’re shepherding sheep at high altitudes or just trying to get through winter with grace.
Brioche stitch is a classic pattern whose deep and lofty texture comes from some well-placed yarn overs. We love that its distinctive ribs carve lovely lines along the sleeves and around the shoulders.
You work this sweater from the bottom up, front and back separately, then seam the two pieces together at the shoulders and collar. Pick up each sleeve and work it down flat, and finally, sew up the sleeve and side seams (leaving a little split hem detail at the bottom)… And ta da!
Big, cozy, and brimming with style, this Big Brioche Turtleneck is the hug you’ll crave when winter comes to town!
Designed for Purl Soho by Adam Aronowitz.
Share your progress + connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoBigBriochePullover. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) (7, 8, 8, 9) skeins of Purl Soho’s Big Good Wool, 100% Andean highland wool, undyed. Each skein is approximately 274 yards/ 200 grams; approximately 1175 (1315, 1420, 1580, 1685) (1850, 1985, 2150, 2280) yards required. We used the color Heirloom White. (Please Note: Big Good Wool is no longer available. To view our full line of Purl Soho yarns, click here! Be sure to check your gauge when substituting yarns.)
- US 10 (6 mm), 24- or 32-inch circular needles (depending on size you are making)
- Removable stitch markers
- Stitch marker
Gauge
12½ stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches in Brioche Stitch
NOTE To count rows in Brioche Stitch, be aware that each visible stitch is actually two rows.
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
38 (41½, 45½, 49½, 53) (57, 61, 64½, 68½)
To fit actual chest circumference of 30–33 (34–37, 38–41, 42–45, 45–48 (49–52, 53–56, 57–60, 61–64) inches, with approximately 5–8 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 38 (41½, 45½, 49½, 53) (57, 61, 64½, 68½) inches
- Finished Length From Shoulder: 23¼ (25, 25½, 27, 27¾) (29¼, 30¼, 31¾, 32½) inches
- Finished Sleeve Length From Underarm: 17 (17, 17, 17, 16½) (16½, 16, 16, 15½) inches
Sample: The sweater pictured here is size 49½ modeled with 11 inches of ease.
Pattern
Download the Big Brioche Turtleneck Pattern here!
Beautiful
Hello,
Your brioche stitch tutorial was very helpful and I did a swatch to get gauge no problem. I’m an experienced knitter but am having trouble getting this started. I do a set up row then row 1 no trouble. At the end of row 2, I do the last BKtog and then the yos but somehow have 2 stitches remaining (the pattern only calls for a k1).
Any ideas? Thanks!
Beth
Hello again, think I figured it out. On row 1 between the first slip stitch and the bk2tog on the first row, I brought the yarn over instead of just knitting the 2 stitches together…creating an extra stitch.
Thanks!
Beth
I just ordered the heirloom white big good wool yarn and it is much bigger/bulkier than I imagined. Is there any other yarn that you could suggest that would work with the pattern (I can adjust the stitches for the guage another yarn). I was considering the 8-ply or 12-ply cashmere. What are you thoughts?
Hello Nancy,
Thank you for reaching out! I would recommend checking out our Cashmere Tend. It is a beautiful yarn that is a worsted/aran weight which is a nice in between of 8 ply and 12 ply.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Please advise,due to loftiness of yarn,would you stay true to size or go up,down a size for ease.i am unsure.thank you.
Hi Jen,
Thanks for writing in! I would recommend choosing a size based on how much ease you like in your sweaters or sweatshirts. Our sizes indicate the finished bust measurement of the sweater, and we recommend choosing a size with at least 5 to 8 inches of positive ease. Our model is wearing a sweater with 11 inches of positive ease, so this pattern looks wonderful even with a quite relaxed fit!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
I’d love to make this sweater and am about to buy the pattern, but is it top down or bottom up and how much sewing together. I prefer less sewing and I can’t really tell. Thank you.
Hi Janet,
Thanks for reaching out! This sweater is knit from the bottom up in pieces. You will have to seam the shoulders, side seams, and sleeves. If you prefer a seamless sweater, you may be interested in our Twisted Rib Pullover! Although it is knit in a different weight and stitch, it otherwise looks quite similar to the Big Brioche Turtleneck and is knit seamlessly from the top down.
Best,
Julianna
I am up to joining the shoulders, and absolutely stuck as how to do it. The instructions aren’t making much sense to me. Can anybody provide a relevant tutorial link, or some advice?
Cheers!
Madelaine
Hi Madelaine,
Thank you for writing in! Our Picking Up Stitches tutorial might be helpful as you join the bound off shoulder seams. As you are joining your front and back with the wrong sides facing, you’ll want to consult the video for picking up stitches purlwise- the process will be the same when holding your two torso pieces together as one! I hope this helps!
Best,
Gaby
Hello,
I have downloaded the pattern for this beautiful jumper. I have purchased thinner yarn a while ago and was looking for something like this design to knit it with. This yarn is cotton-merino mix and is thinner than the recommended yarn. I will have to knit this jumper on US7-8 needles. What changes would you recommend to the instructions so the result will be as gorgeous.
Here is the link to the yarn https://www.katia.com/EN/yarns-autumn-winter-cottonmerino-929.html?color=119
Hope to hear from you soon.
Cheers,
Zina
Hi Zina,
I am happy that you were inspired to make our Big Brioche Turtleneck. Since we aren’t making a huge jump in yarn weight and needle size, I think the simplest solution would be to make the sweater a couple of sizes bigger. If you haven’t already, make a gauge swatch with your cotton-merino yarn with size 8 needles. Compare it to the gauge in the pattern and this will help you figure out how many sizes you will need to go up. Here is a link to our All About Gauge tutorial.
After you’ve made the swatch, let me know if you need additional help on size selection.
Happy knitting,
Oscar
Hi Oscar,
Thank you for your reply and yes this is exactly what I am doing. It looks wonderful in fluffy pink colour. Will share a picture once I finish knitting it.
From a Very happy knitter.
Zina
I’m fairly new at knitting although I did knit back in the early 90’s what level is this. Also without downloading the pattern I don’t know how much yarn to purchase and I’m on a tight budget. How many skeins do I need and what size needles, I have quite a few and don’t need doubles. I’m sure all the info is in the pattern but if I can’t afford the supplies then I will put on a wish list
Hi Virginia,
Thanks for reaching out! No need to download the pattern to see that information, everything you need to know is available on this page under Materials.
The pattern is knit on a US 10, 24- or 32-inch circular needles (depending on size you are making.) Also depending on the size you will need 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) (7, 8, 8, 9) skeins of our Big Good Wool yarn.
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Beautiful sweater – but – can you tell me if there is upper back shaping – perhaps with short rows? I find funnel neck sweaters that have identical front and back to be extremely uncomfortable to wear. Thanks.
Hi Barb,
Thanks for reaching out! The front and back is not identical in this pattern, they are knit the same from the bottom to beginning of the arm holes and then there are different shaping instructions for the back shoulders and back collar compared to the front shoulder/collar!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Is it possible to have this pattern e-mailed to me as I live in Northern Ireland? I am willing to purchase the pattern but postage is too costly.
Hi Ina,
Thanks for reaching out! All of our patters are available as digital downloads, so once you check out it will direct you on how to download the pattern from there!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
I ordered the Brioche turtleneck and wool. Wool arrived, thank you. But don’t know how I get my downloadable pattern.
Hi Joan,
Thanks for reaching out! To access your pattern all you need to do is go to “My Account” on. the top left corner of the website, then click on “My Pattern PDF’s” and just click the download button and your download will begin!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
In shaping the back shoulders, should I be able to work a decrease at the beginning of each row 1? After working the 2 row repeat, I always have a stitch to slip before working the decrease. Have ripped back twice and still can’t figure what I’m doing wrong.
Hi Pennie,
Thanks for reaching out! I don’t think you are doing anything wrong, it sounds like you are following the pattern correctly. You should be slipping the first stitch of the row before working the decrease. The decrease should not be at the beginning of the row but should be right after you slip the first stitch!
I hope this clarifies things!
All the best,
Gianna
Happy Holidays! I made this sweater for a gift and it came out so nice. I showed the sweater to my niece and she loved that I offered to make her one. She is allergic to animal fibers so I was hoping we could find a solution to me using your Cotton Pure for this pattern. If I used two stands, do you think that would that be too thick/heavy. I have used the Cotton Pure for your baby dress pattern and love that yarn. Thank you.
Hi Mary,
Thanks for reaching out! I am so glad to hear that the sweater turned out so great! That is an excellent idea, holding Cotton Pure double should achieve a a similar gauge and I don’t think that it would be too thick or heavy! I do recommend working a gauge swatch to insure that you are consistent with the pattern or if there any any necessary adjustments!
Please let us know how this goes!
Warmly,
Gianna
Thank you. I will let you know how my gauge swatch is. After further research, I think I might have to use 3 strands and if that is the case, I may look for a different solution. Mary
Hi
after doing the back shoulder decrease at the end of the row to the last five stitches do you count the very last stitch that you would slip in the beginning of the next row as one of the five ?
Also at the end I am left with a pearl stitch and a regular knit with the yarn over stitch and then the very last stitch which would be my slip in the beginning of the Next row
It doesn’t match the beginning where the beginning decrease in the row is started after the First slipped stitch.
And the end Of the row Decrease I’m left with a column And or they is a pearl and a knit yarn over stitch and then my final one last stitch .
so I’m just a little confused if that’s the way that it supposed to look
In The video it looks like she has those stitches left at the end of the decrease row.
The video is a little blurry
thanks for your time
Hi Jan,
Thanks you for reaching out! Yes, when knitting to the last 5 stitches the last stitch that was the previous rows slip stitch should be included in that 5. For that row you should repeat from * to last 5 stitches (including the slip stitch), yos, bk3tog, k1. [4 total stitches decreased] So after working the bk3tog you will knit that slip stitch! After working the bsk2p and the bk3tog it should look like our swatch in the Brioche Stitch: Basic Decreases (bsk2p + bk3tog) tutorial! The first and lasts stitch of the piece should be slip knit stitch, not a purl stitch, before going into the brioche pattern.
I hope this clears things up but please feel free to reach out with any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi, do you still stock big good wool? Or do you have a recommend substitute?
Thanks
Hi Julie,
Thanks for your question!
We’re sad to say that Big Good Wool has been discontinued and is no longer available on our website. One yarn we can recommend that has a similar feel to Big Good Wool is Quarry by Brooklyn Tweed! It’s a 100% Targhee-Columbia wool bulky weight yarn and would be a good substitute for this pattern.
I hope this was helpful! Don’t hesitate to reach out if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Cat
Hello!
Thank you for all of your beautiful patterns and yarn! I’ve been tempted to try this pattern but I would really love to change the shape of the body (it’s so straight, and I like a kind of shorter, wider almost cropped look – more similar to the photo of the sweater when it’s laying down). Do you think it would be possible to add some decreases to achieve that look? (I’m experienced with brioche and made a few non-brioche sweaters, but I’ve never made a brioche sweater.
Thanks in advance for any ideas!
Hi Ashley,
Thanks for reaching out, and thank you for your kind words. In order to achieve the look you’re going for, I’d recommend first just working fewer rows in the Back Body and Front Body sections! So instead of knitting until the piece measures 14 (15, 15, 16, 16) (17, 17, 18, 18) inches from cast-on edge, just knit for fewer inches. If you’d like a slightly flared look, I’d recommend casting on more stitches to begin with, and then decreasing these away as you knit up the body. Just keep in mind, you’ll want to end up with the correct amount of stitches for your size at the end of this section, as you continue into the Armholes section and onwards. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Is the Lovebird yarn of a similar weight to Big Good Wool? Do you think it would work in this pattern?
Thanks!
Hi there,
Thanks for reaching out. You can absolutely use Lovebird in place of Big Good Wool! As always, we recommend making a gauge swatch before starting a project to be sure you’re working with the right needles, especially when substituting yarns. If this is daunting, I’d recommend checking out a tutorial called All About Gauge, which covers some incredibly helpful information. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi – I love your yarns and patterns! And fortunately I bought your Big Good Wool before it was gone. I’ve made the back – beautiful and am working on the front. I’m trusting your pattern and increasing after the armholes, but it seems odd to me. Can you let me know why the increase to the front area? I’m trying to picture it, but can’t. You decrease 12 for the armhole and then slope increase 12? Thanks for your help/explanation, as always!
Hi Isabella,
Thanks for writing in! The increase during the armhole shaping is just a design feature of this pullover. It allows the shoulder seam to fall a bit further down the arm, rather than on the shoulder itself. If you look at the photos in the pattern PDF, you can see this increase on the shoulders! It will look like one of the brioche “ridges” splits in two. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hello, lovely people! Currently swatching for this sweater with Cascade 100% undyed Peruvian wool. My question if this: is there a reason for the odd number of cast on stitches? Whenever I’ve done brioche stitch, it’s been an even number cast on, ie 76 or 78 instead of the 77 this pattern calls for. That way, the beginning of every row is identical and so much less to keep track of. I’m no stitch guru. And I admit slipping stitches at the end or beginning of a row generally gives me fits. It just seems really fiddly to me that every other row starts/ends differently. That’s a really long way to ask, if I remove (or add) 1 stitch for the cast on, will it irrevocably change the outcome of this beautiful sweater?
Hi Shara,
Thanks for your question! Sometimes the designers add extra stitches to brioche with certain aspects in mind to make different parts easier to complete later in the pattern. I wouldn’t recommend altering the pattern but one thing you could try is to add a stitch marker to the offset stitch to help you remember to work it as a slip or knit stitch when you come to it. Ultimately this is your project so if you feel more comfortable changing the number of stitches you are working over then I say go for it! I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hahahaha!! I was right. It was the slipping at the beginning of the rows that was messing with me. I finally figured out exactly where the yarn needed to go AFTER the slip stitch. Thank you so much for the input.
No problem at all! If you have any more questions along the way, we are always happy to help!