Up-And-Over Turtleneck
If your needles are ready to go faster than we can say “sweater weather,” cast on for our Up-and-Over Turtleneck, the perfect sweater for apple picking, leaf peeping, and trail blazing!
For this one, you’ll start at the back bottom hem, knit up to the top of the shoulders, then over to the front and down to the front bottom hem. Once you’ve gone “up and over,” you’ll seam the sides and sleeves, then pick up the collar and cuffs to knit them in the round… Done!
Along the way you’ll encounter little details, like pretty decreases at the neck and long cuffs knit perpendicular to the upper sleeves. We love when a pared-down design allows moments like these the space to shine!
A beautiful pattern calls for a beautiful yarn or, in this case, two beautiful yarns. We used a strand of our earthy and sumptuous Understory with a strand of billowy mohair-silk Tussock. It’s a winning combination, creating a classic heather with a halo so lovely it practically glows!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Adam Aronowitz.
Share your progress + connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoUpAndOverTurtleneck, #PurlSohoUnderstory, and #PurlSohoTussock. We can’t wait to see what you make!
MATERIALS
- Yarn A: 4 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7) skeins of Purl Soho’s Understory, 50% baby alpaca, 25% baby yak, and 25% silk. Each skein is 250 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 995 (1105, 1210, 1345, 1500, 1615) yards required. We used Ash Blue. (NOTE: We no longer offer Understory, but choose from one of our other light worsted/dk weight yarns.)
- Yarn B: 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5) skeins of Purl Soho’s Tussock, 60% super fine kid mohair and 40% silk. Each skein is 328 yards/ 25 grams; approximately 1015 (1125, 1235, 1370, 1525, 1640) yards required. We used Cerulean Sea.
- US 6 (4 mm), 36- or 40-inch circular needles (depending on size you are making)
- US 6, 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 6 double pointed needles
- US size F (3.75 mm) crochet hook
- Several yards of scrap yarn
- Stitch markers
- 4 removable stitch markers
- Stitch holders
- Please Note: The Up-And-Over Pullover Pattern is no longer available for purchase. For assistance, please contact us at customerservice@purlsoho.com.
You can also choose from the following combinations…
Earth Black + Cypress Green
Field Mint + Bright Jade
Blue Bayou + Pink Joy
Violet Gray + Bright Thistle
Ripe Plum + Anjou Pear
Silver Berry + Alpine Phlox
Willow Bark + Gray Quartz
Pink Earth + Orange Pekoe
GAUGE
18 stitches and 27 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, holding one strand each of Yarns A and B together
SIZES
45½ (50, 54, 58½, 63, 67½)
To fit actual chest circumference of 33–37 (38–42, 42–46, 47–51, 51–55, 56–60) inches, with approximately 8–12 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 45½ (50, 54, 58½, 63, 67½) inches
- Finished Length From Shoulder: 23¾ (24¼, 25, 25¾, 27, 27½) inches
- Finished Sleeve Length From Underarm: 16 (16, 15¾, 15¾, 15¼, 14½) inches
Sample: The sweater pictured here is size 45½, worn with 11 inches of ease.
PATTERN
Much as I adore yarns like Tussock, I am unable to wear them because the lovely halo they create irritates my skin, even if I wear a blouse or turtleneck.
Is there any other combination of yarns, or a larger yarn, that would work just as well and create the same drape for the “up-and-over turtleneck” sweater? I love the pattern.
Hi Jessie,
Thanks for reaching out, and we certainly understand that not all fibers are for everyone! To obtain the same gauge and marled effect without the halo, I would suggest holding a less fluffy lace weight yarn, such as Brooklyn Tweed Vale or Jade Sapphire 2 Ply Cashmere, along with Understory. Tussock has a very minimal impact on the gauge, so you may even be able to knit to the correct gauge using Understory on its own!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
What is the level of difficulty of this pattern?
Thank you.
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! I would consider this an advanced beginner to intermediate pattern. Much of the sweater is stockinette stitch without any shaping, but there is quite a bit of shaping involved in the sleeves and neckline, including casting on and casting off, short rows, and increases and decreases. However, each row is clearly explained and detailed instructions for each technique can be found on our tutorials page. We are also always here to help if you have any questions, so I do hope you will give this sweater a try!
Best,
Julianna
Has anyone tried this with a modified shorter neck band?
Hi Lee,
Thanks for reaching out! We haven’t tried it, but since the collar is knit in the round after the rest of the sweater is completed, it would be very easy to adjust the length to as short or as long as you would like!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I love this sweater! Just wondering if it is something a beginner knitter can tackle?
Hi Kim,
Thank you so much for the kind words! I do think an advanced beginner could take this on, even as a first sweater! Much of the sweater is stockinette stitch without any shaping, but there is quite a bit of shaping involved in the sleeves and neckline, including casting on and casting off, short rows, and increases and decreases. However, each row is clearly explained and detailed instructions for each technique can be found on our tutorials page. We are also always here to help if you have any questions, so I do hope you will give this sweater a try!
Best,
Julianna
Could you please clarify which parts of the sweater are seamed – is there one seam per arm, and a seam down each side? This is such a beautiful sweater, and the detail at the neck makes it extra-special!
Hi Bonnie,
Thanks so much for the kind words and for reaching out! Yes, each side seam and each sleeve are seamed separately, and then a very short seam is sewn at each underarm.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Is it possible to replace the wrap and turn technique with the german short rows technique with this sweater?
Many thanks in advance!
Hello Henrietta,
Thank you for reaching out! You can substitute German Short Rows. In our video tutorial we explain how to adapt a wrap and turn pattern to use german short rows.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Mariila
Hello, I have just read through the pattern, can you explain why that when at the underarms you cast off 5 stitches to then cast on 5 stitches on the next row,
I love this design and hope I will be able to knit it, thank you, Ann
Hi Ann,
Great question! This step helps define the underarms of the sweater and creates a tidier, sharper turn from the body of the sweater to the armhole shaping. It also gives you a good reference point when sewing the side and arm seams to make sure everything lines up as it should!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Love this pattern. A question: I have knitted up the back and cable cast on my first 5 sts for the short sleeve/body seam, then put markers on the last cast on st, ie, the first ones on the needle. What I don’t understand is the markers for the shoulders referred to in the next step. Should that marker be on the same stitch? The marker isn’t referred to again. I’m confused about its purpose. Can you explain?
thanks!!
I think I’ve answered my own question. The shoulder marker should be slipped on every row. Otherwise, when I’ve completed my sleeve depth, I can count in 40 stitches from the edge (in the case of the smallest size) to start my shoulder shaping. Is this right?
Thanks! Love the sweater so far.
Hi Kay,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, it sounds like you’ve got it! The first marker, which will be used to help in seaming the sweater, should be a removable marker that is placed in the actual stitch so it stays put for the rest of the sweater. The shoulder marker, however, will be slipped onto the needle when indicated and then slipped in every row. If you skipped placing the shoulder markers, yes, you can count in 40 stitches from each edge to determine where to put them, but I would recommend placing them now to make it easier to work the shoulder short rows.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Thank you–I appreciate your response!
The knit fabric is lovely–the wispy Tussock adds a haze of color and texture that influences so nicely the fabric as a whole. The color of my base yarn (Feza’s Harvest in cranberry) is tempered and enriched. What a good idea in a simple design.
Hello, I am looking to make a first sweater. This pattern is beautiful. I was curious if the pattern would have conversions for a Men’s size L. Thank you!
Hi Brian,
Thanks so much for the kind words! Like many of our designs, this sweater is a unisex design that can be worn by anyone! Our sizes are given as the finished chest measurement of the sweater, so all you have to do is measure your chest circumference and choose a size that is 4 to 8 inches larger, depending on how loose you like your sweaters to fit. The only modification you may need to make would be to add some length to the sleeves and/or body of the sweater, so I would recommend checking the measurements of your chosen size in our schematic to make sure everything will be long enough.
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Thank you, Julianna! Very helpful. I will look more at this when I’m finished tackling the Bordered Bias Blanket. 🙂
Brian, I think this would be a great sweater to knit for a man. Having just come to the end of mine, I find that the sleeves are a bit tight, so I suggest checking the measurements of the schematic and see if you think they’ll be big enough for a guy’s bicep and elbow. If not, I think it’s easily altered. It is a very fun knitting job and the yarns are great.
Okay, I’m ready to block. Is it better to block out flat or fold at the shoulder and block as if the sweater were seamed. I’m wondering about controlling the roll of the hemlines.
Thanks!
Hi Kay,
Great question! If you have already knit the turtleneck, I would probably recommend blocking the sweater folded as if it were already seamed, simply because it would be tricky to support or fold the collar with the shoulders unfolded. Wet blocking should make it fairly easy to flatten the cast on and cast off edges, even with the two edges on top of each other, but you can always flip the top layer up to pin the bottom layer flat, and then fold the top layer back down, replacing each pin through both layers of the sweater.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thank you, Julianna, I’ll give it a try. Thanks for the tip about pinning down the underside. I’m excited about finishing. Looking good!
Hello! I’m stuck on seaming this at the under arms so this has been in my UFO for several months. I did one side obviously wrong; I ended up with with a right angle piece at the underarm. How do I do the underarm? HELP. I love the tussock and linen quill together and want to wear this beautiful sweater!
Hi Colette,
Thanks for writing in! Unlike many other seamed sweaters, you will need to sew three separate seams to finish the sides and underarms of this sweater. If you look at the sides of the body and underarms before seaming, you will see a right-angle corner at the underarm on each piece. When sewing the side seams, you will start at the bottom edge of the sweater and stop right at this right angle, and, similarly, sew the sleeves starting at the cuff and ending at the corner. This will leave you with an open hole at the underarm, which you will sew in a line that is perpendicular to the previous two seams. In other words, if you think of the side and sleeve seams as “hot dog” folds, you will fold the underarm area like a “hamburger” to seam it!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Do you still carry the Pink Earth color of Understory?
Hi Sharon,
Thanks for getting in touch! Unfortunately, Pink Earth has been discontinued – I’m so sorry about that! You can view all of our current colors of Understory by clicking right here. If you prefer, our Flax Down should knit up to the correct gauge for this pattern and the Rosewood Pink color should be restocked within the next week or two!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi! I am a semi-novice knitter (this is my first sweater). I’ve made it to the “center front neckline” step and I’m a bit confused about the steps following the provisional cast on stitches and how to purl across the rest of the row…If I were to just purl across the provisionally cast on stitches, this would create a hole between the left and right shoulders… alternatively, am I supposed to pick up the stitches on the side of the right shoulder when purling across the whole row? I’m a bit worried that I’ve done something incorrect as the right shoulder/sleeve section is a bit taller than the left… any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated 🙂 Thanks!
Hi Madeline,
Thanks for reaching out! Please send us a few photos of your work to our email customerservice@purlsoho.com and we can troubleshoot what may be going on further from there!
Warmly,
Gianna
How are the endings not curled up in the picture?
Hi Kiki,
Thanks for writing in! All of our samples are heavily blocked before they are photographed. This gives the pieces a beautiful finished look with even, well distributed stitches and will also flatten out any curling you may be experiencing! I recommend checking out our Blocking tutorial, it is an excellent resource to use and will walk you through the entire process to get the best finished look!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
So blocking is not permanent. If I want to keep my endings straight like in the pictures, I’ll have to do it with every washing.
Hi Kiki,
Thanks for your response! If you block the turtleneck properly it will stay flat until you wash it again. Since this turtleneck will require hand washing and laying flat to dry anyways, you can easily use the same blocking techniques when necessary.
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Love this pattern…knitting for my daughter. Question about directions for Right Front, Shape Right Front Neckline: “repeat last 2 rows 6 () more times” does this mean repeat 2 rows six times EACH or repeat 2 rows three times EACH? thank you!
Hi Helen,
Thanks for writing in! You will repeat the two rows 6 times each!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Thank You!
I bought this pattern to make a replacement for a favorite store-bought sweater that has seen better days. The shaping is perfect, but I greatly prefer a split hem at side seams, with the back ever slightly longer than front. Do you think this would be an easy adjustment? (I was thinking to add a few extra rows when starting at the back, and simply don’t sew the seams the full length.) Would it work, or would the edge curl be an issue with not sewing the seam fully? Would you recommend some alternate edge stitch or treatment at the split side seams?
Hi Emily,
Thanks for writing in with your question! I think this pattern would lend itself very well to customization. You can absolutely knit the back panel a little bit longer than the front panel, since the sweater is knit flat!
If you are worried about the edges curling in, I would recommend making 4 stitches at either side of your cast on into a selvedge row by knitting them in either garter stitch or a seed stitch pattern. This should prevent any extra curling and help to keep the fabric flat! Blocking your project would also help prevent the edges from curling in! Sometimes this is a step that gets overlooked, but it really does neaten up all the edges and makes everything look nice and polished!
I hope this helps! Please feel free to reach out with any questions!
All the best,
Carly
Hello,
I would love to knit the Up and Over Sweater, however, I would like to only knit it in one yarn, excluding the Tussock because I live in the south where it is much too warm for mohair. Any suggestions for achieving the gauge using a single yarn in the Purl Soho family that would give me the gauge and knit up just as well without the mohair? Thank you! Carolyn
Hi Carolyn,
Thanks for writing in. I’d recommend either Worsted Twist, Linen Quill Worsted, or Tulip Cotton as substitutes for this pattern! As always, we still recommend making a gauge swatch before starting a project to be sure you’re working with the right needles, especially when substituting yarns. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hello!
This is such a FUN knit! Let me start by saying that….
I have just finished the Right Front, Shape Right Front Neckline. It does not say to cut the yarn. I have begun the Left Front section and returned the Left Shoulder and Sleeve stitches to needles, per the Shape the Left Front Shoulder section. My question is, do I use a new yarn? Since I never cut it from the right front section? OR am I supposed to use the yarn from the Right Front section? Will I close off or join the two by doing so? I am confused, thank you so much for your help.
Suzanne
Hi Suzanne,
Thanks for reaching out about this! The pattern definitely should have instructed you to cut the yarn after you finished the SHAPE RIGHT FRONT NECKLINE, so yes, you can cut that yarn and then rejoin for SHAPE LEFT FROUNT SHOULDER. We’re updating the pattern PDF now to add that missing (and crucial!) instruction.
Thank you again for bringing this to our attention!
All the best,
Lili