Special without being stuffy, our Farmhouse Dishtowels have the style of an heirloom kitchen linen and the practicality of a true workhorse. They’re also super easy to work up. Going to stay with friends or family this summer? Make a house gift on the way and ace the art of being a good guest!
Unmercerized cotton and a lofty (and simple) slip stitch pattern make a wonderfully absorbent fabric, perfect for wiping down dishes or cradling a fresh loaf of warm bread (add that to the gift!).
We knit these up in our Cotton Pure, which has undergone a bit of a makeover. No need to panic, we kept all the good stuff but made some choice improvements: same gauge, same spin, same soft touch, but now the Pima cotton is 100% organically grown… Wonderful!
Plus, enjoy a whole new palette of colors, each taking its cue from a landscape in full bloom: birch and linden trees, warm rocks, crystalline water, and meadows of wildflowers. You’ll need just two skeins (one for the main color and one for the stripes) and nice, long road trip!
Designed for Purl Soho by Jake Canton.
Materials
- Main Color: 1 skein of Purl Soho’s Cotton Pure, 100% organically grown Pima cotton. Each skein is 279 yards; approximately 274 yards required.
- Contrast Color: 1 skein of Purl Soho’s Cotton Pure. Each skein is 279 yards; approximately 22 yards required.
- US 4 circular needles
We knit up our Dishtowels in these pretty palettes, pictured above from top to bottom, left to right…
MC: HEIRLOOM WHITE + CC: TOMATO ORANGE
MC: HEIRLOOM WHITE + CC: LINDEN GREEN
MC: HEIRLOOM WHITE + CC: CRYSTAL BLUE
Gauge
31 stitches and 44 rows = 4 inches in stitch pattern
Size
Finished Dimensions: 11 inches wide x 17¼ inches long
Notes
Slip Stitches
Slip all slipped stitches purlwise, unless the pattern indicates otherwise.
Stitch Multiple
This pattern works over a multiple of 4 + 1 stitches.
Turn + Slide
When you work this Stitch Pattern, you either “turn” or “slide” the work at the end of each row.
“Turn work” means to do what you would normally do when knitting rows with circular needles: Transfer the needle from your left hand into your right hand and the needle from your right hand into your left, flipping the work around so the opposite side is facing you.
“Slide work” means to keep the same side of the work facing you and to push all the stitches to the right end of the circular needles. Without turning the work, start the new row as you normally would.
You will know that you’re doing this right if the yarn you need to complete the next row is right there waiting for you!
One-Color Stitch Pattern
Row 1 (wrong side): With Main Color (MC), slip 1 knitwise with yarn in front (wyif), *k1, slip 1 wyif, k2, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2 (right side): With MC, slip 1 knitwise wyif, *k3, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k4.
Two-Color Stitch Pattern
Row 1 (wrong side): With Contrast Color (CC), slip 1 wyif, *k1, slip 1 wyif, k2, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, [k1, slip 1 wyif] twice. Slide work.
Row 2 (wrong side): With Main Color (MC), slip 1 knitwise wyif, *p3, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib), repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p3, k1. Turn work.
Row 3 (right side): With CC, slip 1 wyib, *p1, slip 1 wyib, p2, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, [p1, slip 1 wyib] twice. Slide work.
Row 4 (right side): With MC, slip 1 knitwise wyif, *k3, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k4. Turn work.
Pattern
With Main Color (MC), use a Basic Long Tail Cast-On to cast on 85 stitches.
With MC, work One-Color Stitch Pattern (see Notes) until piece measures 1 inch from cast-on edge (repeat Rows 1 and 2 six times), ending with Row 2.
Work Two-Color Stitch Pattern (see Notes) for 1 inch [repeat Rows 1-4 three times], ending with Row 4.
Do not cut CC. Instead, can it carry up the selvage to the next time you need it.
With MC, work One-Color Stitch Pattern for 1/3 inch [repeat Rows 1 and 2 twice], ending with Row 2.
Work Two-Color Stitch Pattern for 1/3 inch [repeat Rows 1-4 once], ending with Row 4.
Cut CC.
With MC, work One-Color Stitch Pattern for 13 inches, ending with Row 2.
Work Two-Color Stitch Pattern for 5/8 inch [repeat Rows 1-4 twice], ending with Row 4.
Cut CC.
With MC, work One-Color Stitch Pattern for almost 1 inch (repeat Rows 1 and 2 five and a half times), ending with Row 1.
Bind Off (right side): K1, *[k1, slip first stitch over] 3 times, p1, slip first stitch over, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, [k1, slip first stitch over] twice, k2, leaving 3 stitches on right needle.
Make I-Cord
With the remaining 3 stitches, work an I-cord for 3 inches, working the last row as follows…
Last Row: K1, k2tog, pass first stitch over second stitch and off the right needle. Cut yarn, leaving an 8-inch tail and pull through remaining stitch.
Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle. Make a loop with the I-cord and weave the tail into the fabric of the Dishtowel at the base of the I-cord, then weave it through the looped I-cord, and back into the fabric of the Dishtowel.
Weave in the remaining ends and block as desired.
PRINT
Can this be knitted with straight needles or does it have to be in circular needles? Thank you!
Hi Maria,
Thanks for writing in! While knit flat, to accomplish this pattern, you will need to work on circular needles or very long DPNs. This is because for the color work portion of the pattern, you will be sliding the work back to one end of your needles as opposed to turning your work and working back. You certainly could transfer the stitches back to your other straight needle should you strongly prefer straight needles!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I wanted to knit this without colorwork on my first try.
I am so confused as to how you slide the work down and begin knitting on those rows!
Very confusing.
Hi MB,
Thanks for the question! If you want to make these lovely dishtowels in a single color, after you cast on you will work follow the “One-Color Stitch Pattern”. This will mean that you will not need to slide your work. The sliding is only used in the two color section.
If you do want to give the colorwork a go, when it says to slide your work at the end of a row, instead of turning the work as you normally would, you push the work back to the end where you just knit from and join the new color or pick up the strand that is there if you are into the colorwork already and work back across the stitches that you just worked. It can feel a but funny at first but once you do it a few times, it starts to make sense!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Will you be offering cones of the new Cotton Pure in the future?
Hi,
Great question! It’s coming back, too, with the same improvements! Be on the lookout for its return this summer!
Best,
Cassy
If we want to make the towel a bit wider, what stitch increments to we increase by?
Hi Bev,
Thanks for reaching out! This pattern is worked over a multiple of 4 + 1 stitches!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
How many dishtowels are produced with one skein of the main and one of the contrast color?
Hi Gwen,
Thanks for writing in! One dishtowel takes one skein of the main the main color and approximately 22 yards of the contrast color!
Best,
Cassy
How much additional yarn is required to increase the 4″ (31 stitches-44 rows equals 4″). I would like to towel to measure 15×21.
Will the towel shrink when washed and dried?
Will you ball the skeins?
thanks Susan
Hi Susan,
I am happy to help! A towel of 15 x 21 inches would be about 66% larger than our towel here of 11 x17 1/4 inches. With that in mind, you would need about 455 yards of the main color and 37 yards of the contrast color. With that in mind, you will need about 1 2/3 skeins of the main color per towel. For Cotton Pure, when machine washed cold and tumbled dry low, we find minimal shrinkage if any.
We are also always happy to wind your yarn for you! Just leave a note in the “Special Instructions” on check out and please do know that winding yarn does make it final sale.
Best,
Cassy
Suggestion: It would be helpful if one could download a pdf/print the pattern without all the photographs. Save a tree–save some ink!! Thanks
HI Kim,
Thanks for writing in! You certainly can! By using our handy print function, you can download the pattern as a PDF and choose to keep the images, make them smaller or eliminate them all together! To do so, if you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find the Print icon in the right margin just below the Save to Favorites button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find the Print icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials.
Best,
Cassy
These are so pretty! If I’d like to make them into a washcloth size, say about 7”x7”, would I cast on 58 stitches? And then if I only worked one of the two-color stitch pattern, could I get two washcloths out of one set of the MC and CC? Maybe even three if I switched the MC and CC for the third washcloth?
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for writing in! Since this stitch pattern requires a multiple of 4 stitches plus 1, I would suggest casting on 57 stitches. It’s hard to say for sure without actually knitting the first washcloth, but I think you might actually be able to get 3 washcloths out of one skein of the MC, and a fourth by switching colors!
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Just before you cut the CC is that where we would “Work Two Color stitch Pattern for 1/3 inch? Just want to make sure I do it right, I’m a beginner.
Hi and thanks for writing in! Yes, you will cut your contrast color after work the 1/3 inch of Two Color Stitch Pattern.
Best,
Julianna
Hi PS – terribly sorry if I missed seeing this info posted . . . re’ the Cotton Pure; how many plies is it, please? To Mr. Canton; love the simplicity of your designs!
Hi Martilynn,
Thanks for reaching out! Cotton Pure consists of 20 plies of organically grown cotton. I will most certainly pass your compliments along to Jake!
Best,
Julianna
Does this cotton tend to stretch? Or will it hold its shape if used in a garment?
Hi Tamarque,
Great question! I have made several garments out of Cotton Pure and find that they hold their shape quite well! If you do find that your garment stretches out a bit, a trip through the washer and dryer will put it right back into shape.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Does everything made with cotton pure have to be blocked after each washing?
Hi Olga,
Great question! Most items out of Cotton Pure do not have to be blocked as we recommend machine washing and drying the yarn. If you were to knit a lace item out of Cotton Pure you would probably want to block it every time, but for every day items such as dish towels, a quick wash and dry will be fine!
Best,
Julianna
Hello!
I’m wondering if these lovely towels can go in the dryer or must they lay flat to dry.
Thank you!
Eileen
Hi Eileen,
Thanks for writing in! The care instructions for Cotton Pure are to machine wash cold and tumble dry low! This will be the same for these lovely dishtowels!
Best,
Cassy
Can you crochet this instead of knit?
Hi Melinda,
Great question! While we do not have a crochet version of this pattern, our Mother’s Day Washcloth pattern can certainly be made larger to give a similar look and feel! You can also use the same hook size and gauge as suggested in the original pattern!
Best,
Cassy
If l were to purchase 2 skeins would there be enough to knit 2 teatowels. One the reverse colourway of the other? Thanks.
Hi Niki,
Great question! We used almost all of the skein of the main color for one towel and 22 yards of the contrast color. Without making the towels a bit smaller, you will need one full skein of the main color for each towel!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
What length of circular needles would you recommend for this project?
Thanks!
Hi Frances,
Thanks for the question! You can use a 16 inch, 24 inch, or 30 inch long circular for this project!
Best,
Cassy
I’m still not visualizing the way it works to “slide your work at the end of a row, ” Could you do a little video of it?
Hi Irene,
Thanks for writing in. Unfortunately we don’t have the resources at the moment to do a video tutorial of this. We will keep your request in mind though for the future! However, I do think that while this technique can be hard to visualize, it makes total sense when you are actually knitting the project and following the directions. I would suggest trying a small swatch on double pointed needles to see if that clears things up!
Best,
Julianna
Can you use 💯 % cotton tor these dish towels?
Thank you
Hi Carol,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, you absolutely can! Our Cotton Pure that we used for this pattern is sport weight 100% organically grown cotton and it is fantastic for dish towels and washcloths.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
When you knit the stitch slipped knitwise with yarn in front in the next row, is the leg of the stitch in the back, rather than the front (twisted?)
Hi Jerilynn,
Thanks for reaching out! All the slipped stitches in this pattern should be slipped purlwise, so the stitches will still be oriented correctly on the next row and you do not have to knit them through the back loop.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I LOVE your printing method for free patterns. At first I felt dismay that I would end up with way too many pages. Then I noticed your highlight and delete for whole chunks of text and pictures, so I could get the pattern down to three pages. GENIUS!
I am confused. My slip stitch ends up in the same place in each row. Is it suppose to? If so at what point do you make the slipped stitch longer? It seems I keep pulling the same stitch to be slipped.
Hi Pamela,
Thanks for reaching out! The placement of your slipped stitches should stagger on each row, but stack on each side of the work – in other words, every time you work a right side row, your slipped stitches will be in the same column as the slipped stitches from the previous right side row, but you will be knitting the slipped stitches from the wrong side row you just worked. If you find that you are continuing to slip the same stitches on every single row, I would suggest double checking how many stitches you cast on, as this pattern will only work with a multiple of 4 plus 1.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi…I don’t know why I am getting so confused on this pattern. First of all, when it states slip knitwise, I actually slip purlwise? And when it states “slip 1 stitch knitwise with yarn in front, knit 2,” is that the same as saying wyif slip 1 stitch knitwise, then knit 2?
Thanks for any help…
~Maria
Hi Maria,
Thanks for reaching out! When the pattern indicates that a certain stitch is the be slipped knitwise, you will slip it knitwise; however, if the pattern just says to slip a stitch without any other instruction, you will slip those stitches purlwise. I believe you are referring to Row 1 of the one-color stitch pattern, which reads, “slip 1 knitwise with yarn in front (wyif), *k1, slip 1 wyif, k2, repeat from * to end of row. To work this row, you will slip the first stitch knitwise with the yarn in front, then knit one, slip one purlwise with the yarn in front, knit two, and repeat from the knit 1, working all the rest of the slipped stitches in the row purlwise.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Thanks, Julianna! I thinks it’s wonderful that you/PurlSoho answers all our emails.
~Maria
Sorry to be such a pain, but how do I slip 1 knitwise wyif at the beginning of the row with the CC? Believe it or not, I have knitted before lol!
Hi Maria,
No worries, I’m happy to help explain this step! After slipping the first stitch knitwise with the MC yarn in front, you will need to take your MC to the back of the work between the needles, the same way you would when switching from a purl to a knit. Next, you will knit the second stitch with the CC, joining the new color using the method we show in our Adding a Ball of Yarn tutorial.
I hope that helps, and please don’t hesitate to ask if you run into any other questions!
Julianna
A million thanks to you😊
I’m really excited about this pattern, however, I’m having trouble with the first row in the one-color stitch pattern. I’m confused about the very first “slip 1 knitwise with yarn in front”. Do I slip the stitch through the back loop with the yarn in front? If not, what do I do with the working yarn when I’m slipping the stitch? I think I would understand better if this was not the very first stitch on the row. Thank you for any help!
Hello Emma,
Thank you for reaching out! When it says to slip stitch knitwise you insert your needle as if to knit your stitch, but instead of knitting a stitch you just slip your stitch. This will twist your stitch, but you are not knitting into the back of your stitch. If you were to slip your stitch purlwise it would not twist your stitch.
I hope this makes sense! Let us know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Do you have a crochet pattern for the farmhouse dish towel?
Hi Cecilia,
Thanks for writing in! We do not have a crocheted version of this blanket but we will keep your request in mind for the future!
Best,
Julianna
I’ve got about an inch knit but my edging is not neat, I think I must be doing it wrong. When I slip the first stitch knit wise with the yarn in front how do I get the yarn into position for the first knit stitch? I think this is where I’m going wrong. Would you happen to have a clear picture of the edge?
Hi Pat,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately I do not have a picture of the edge, but hopefully I can explain this step a bit better! After slipping the first stitch knitwise with the yarn in front, you will need to take your yarn to the back of the work between the needles, the same way you would when switching from a purl to a knit, to be ready to knit the next stitch. The edging should look like a tidy chain running up the edge of the dishtowel.
Best of luck, and I do hope that helps!
Julianna
Thank you, that makes sense!
Hello, dears!
This dishtowel is an amazing pattern, that I’m in love with.
I started my gauge just to get used to the pattern and I need your clarification. Regarding the stitches we should slip, on the right side they remain with MC, but on the wrong side, they are knitted in the contrast colour. Should it be like this?
And also, as I’m a beginner in knitting, can you, please, explain me a little bit in details, how to keep the CC to the next time I need it without cutting it?
Thanks a lot and happy knitting projects!
Kind regards,
Maria
Hello Maria,
Thank you for reaching out and for your sweet words!
I hope I can help! Are you working the two color stitch pattern section? If you look at the photo of the two color section on the dish cloth you will see that white (MC) stripes appear. If I understand you correctly, you are correct. These stripes are formed by slipping your MC on the right side and purling on the wrong side. Let me know If this answers your question or if you need any further qualification.
Carrying your CC yarn up the side of your row can sound complicated, but is actually very simple. When you need to carry your CC yarn up you are basically locking your CC yarn in with your MC yarn before you start knitting your row with your MC. To do this you place your CC over your MC which brings your CC up one row and locks it in place.
I hope this all makes sense and let me know if you need any clarification and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello – Lovely dishtowel. Since the white yarn is out of stock can you recommend another comparable yarn?
Thank you!
Ilene
Hi Ilene,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we don’t have any other washable sport weight yarns that would be suitable for dishtowels; however, if you don’t mind tweaking the pattern a bit, you could use Field Linen, which makes lovely dishtowels and wash cloths! Since it is a fingering weight yarn, I would suggest knitting a gauge swatch in pattern on US 3 needles. You can then multiply your stitches per inch by 11 inches and round to the nearest multiple of 4 stitches plus 1.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi there!
Thank you for this lovely pattern, which was actually quite easy to knit once I understood the pattern, a few rows in 🙂
Just one question, though: How do you weave in the contrast color ends without it showing much? It looks very untidy on my towel 🙁
Best,
Carmen
Hi Carmen,
Great question! I would suggest weaving in your ends using duplicate stitch, similar to what we show in our Weaving In Your Ends tutorial. The process will be a bit different since the dishtowel is knit in a slip stitch pattern instead of stockinette, but you will still follow along the path of one strand of contrast color. Although it takes more work than other methods of weaving in ends, it does turn out the closest to invisible!
Best of luck, and I hope that helps!
Julianna
I made a swatch to check gauge, then realized my yarn is too big for an 86 stitch cast on. My yarn = 100% cotton, #4, 2.5 oz= net 120 yards. Gauge 4” x 4”, US 7 =20 st.
Casted on 56 st with #4 circ for the 11” width. 👍
Correction, Cast on should be 4+1….or 57 stitches
Hi please excuse me if this is considered a silly or has already been addressed query, to begin row 1: is the very first stitch we make the slip stitch with yarn in front or it is “k1
Hi Kim,
Thanks for reaching out – we are always happy to clarify anything in our patterns! Row 1 begins with a slip 1 knitwise wyif.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
I’m loving this pattern,but I want to make around the 13” of the main part. Is it measured from the cast on beginning or from the end of the color part? Either way my measurements won’t come out to 17 /4” length! If it’s from the end of the color part, it will be very long!
Thanks
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! This section is measured from the end of the previous two-color section or stripe, and you will repeat the two color stripes after completing the center 13 inches for the total length of 17.25 inches.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi, I love this pattern and the result is amazing. However, I think it would help a lot having a video tutorial 🙂
Thanks!
Hello Julie,
Thanks for reaching out and for the great suggestion! I will pass it along to the team.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello,
I’m learning to knit on my own and don’t know anyone else who knits. There are no yarn stores or knitter’s groups near me. So when I get stuck or make mistakes I’m pretty much on my own. My Bible is Debbie Bliss’s “The Knitter’s Book of Knowledge” but nothing compares to actual one-on-one advice.
You recommend US 4 circular needles for these towels but there are so many sizes to choose from. There are US 4 with lengths 12-47. How do I know which needles to buy? What determines the length?
Thanks for your help.
Hello Limner,
Thank you for reaching out- I’m so excited for you! You can use any cord length for this project because of how you are using circular needles. I would recommend using a 20″ or 24″ cord for this particular project.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Can you please explain the “slide work” process. I have knit the first CC row and can not figure out how to do the second CC row. After I slide the stitches the yarn is still on the left side.
Hi Maxine,
Thanks for reaching out! For Row 2, instead of turning, you will keep the wrong side facing you and slide your work to the other end of your circular needle. Row 2 is knit with the MC, and it should be waiting for you after you slide!
Best,
Julianna
Confused about this instruction: “Slip all slipped stitches purlwise, unless the pattern indicates otherwise.” The pattern seems to indicate directions for every stitch. Does this mean I slip the slipped stitch on row 2 of two-color pattern instead of p3? Where does this instruction apply?
Thank you!
Hello Amelia,
Thank you for reaching out! This note only applies to slipped stitches. It means that if the pattern instructs you to slip a stitch you will slip it purlwise as apposed to when the pattern instructs you to slip knitwise.
I hope this clears things up for you and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thank you! I was not reading that correctly but now I get it. Thanks again!