Contour Tee
Our Contour Tee gives the classic white cotton version a hand-knit spin: teeming with thoughtful details, flowing with elegance and ease, and way cooler than James Dean ever wore it… because you made it!
Knit in the round from bottom up, this Tee’s simple construction allows each little note to sing. Increases at the front hem align with armhole decreases up top. Those decreases are inset a few inches and turn into neckline shaping, resulting in a zig and a zag, the kind of flattering finish that rewards hand making.
Rounding out the special touches are a little split hem and sweet cap sleeves. Also, we’re happy to say that this pattern is designed to fit up to a 62-inch chest, a continuation of our commitment to more inclusive sizing.
This design truly shines in our beautiful Burnish, our new rayon-from-bamboo beauty. Equal parts pretty and practical, Burnish is durable, 100% vegan, and machine washable. And while white may be classic, Burnish comes in seven colors, so feel free to imagine your Contour Tee in something like deep-sea Prussian Blue or sweet-as-can-be Sweet Pea… Whatever feels like a very-you classic!
UPDATE: NOW IN SANTOLINA
JUNE 2022
Our Contour Tee is a wonderful spin on a classic tee and is now available in our Santolina yarn, a unique and lovely mix of 70% organically grown cotton, 20% rayon from bamboo, and 10% hemp. Santolina’s heathery beauty and soft, gently textured hand knit up like your old-but-new favorite tee… Wonderful!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Adam Aronowitz.
Share your progress + connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoContourTee, and #PurlSohoBurnish. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7) skeins of Purl Soho’s Burnish, 100% rayon from bamboo. Each skein is 339 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 995 (1115, 1280, 1405, 1580, 1710, 1930, 2070) yards required. We used the Swan White. (NOTE: We no longer offer Burnish, but choose from one of our other fingering/sport weight yarns.)
- US 2 (3 mm), 32-, 40- or 47-inch circular needles (depending on size you are making)
- A spare 24-inch or longer circular needle in US 2 or up to several sizes smaller
- US 2, 16-inch circular needles
- Stitch markers
- Cable stitch holder
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- A Contour Tee Pattern
GAUGE
26 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
SIZES
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
38¼ (41¾, 45½, 49¼, 53, 56½, 60¼, 64)
To fit actual chest circumference of 32–36 (36–40, 40–43, 43–47, 47–51, 51–54, 54–58, 58–62) inches, with 2–6 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 38¼ (41¾, 45½, 49¼, 53, 56½, 60¼, 64) inches
- Finished Length From Shoulder To Bottom Edge: 24 (24¾, 26¼, 26¾, 28¼, 28½, 30½, 30¾) inches
- Finished Sleeve Length From Underarm To Cuff: 1¼ (1¼, 1½, 1½, 1½, 2¼, 2¼, 2¼) inch(es)
SAMPLE: The sweater pictured here is size 38¼, worn with 5 inches of ease.
The Contour Tee Pattern is available for purchase as a PDF download only.
Can you tell me if the sleeves are knitted in as you go, or attached later? Thanks.
Hi Pam,
Thanks for writing in! For this lovely tee, you will start by working Front and Back Hems separately, then join them to work in the round. Next, you will work to Underarms, where you will divide Front and Back to work Armholes and Shoulders separately. After joining Shoulders, you will pick up and knit each Sleeve in the round.
Best,
Cassy
Hallo, wie bekomme ich die Anleitung von diesem Pullover ?
Hi Renate,
Thanks for reaching out! The pattern for this lovely tee can be purchased here: https://www.purlsoho.com/contour-tee-downloadable-pattern.html
Best,
Cassy
I am missing the care information. I assume cold water and lay flat to dry.
Hi Colleen,
Thanks for writing in! I am happy to help! The care instructions for Burnish are to machine wash delicate cold + lay flat to dry!
Best,
Cassy
Can you tell me what level knitter this is for? Advanced Beginner? Intermediate? Advanced? Thank you.
Hi Shari,
Great question! In general, we do not note levels on our patterns as we do not want to discourage anyone from giving a pattern a try. I think that it can be helpful to know the techniques used for a particular project to help determine if it something that you are comfortable trying. This lovely tee is worked from the bottom up. You will start by working Front and Back Hems separately, then join them to work in the round. Next, you will work to Underarms, where you will divide Front and Back to work Armholes and Shoulders separately. After joining Shoulders, you will pick up and knit each Sleeve in the round. You will use short row shaping, picking up stitches, knitting in the round, increasing and decreasing as well as a three needle bind off. If you are comfortable with these techniques or are ready to give them a go, they this project could be just the one for you!
Best,
Cassy
Thank you for such a well designed summer sweater. I love the thoughtful details, and I’m having fun imagining it in Prussian Blue. Would it be possible to have an autumn version with 3/4 length sleeves, or is the yarn not suitable for that?
Hello Ruth,
Thank you for reaching out! I think this would be lovely with a longer sleeve. It would be a lovely early fall top!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Great minds, etc. Had been thinking about white Ts and possibly kitting one and then discovered your beautifully shaped one.
Wish someone could figure the pattern to be done a knitting machine. Id make one in every color.
Hello Judy,
Thank you for reaching out and for your kind words! A knitting machine would certainly speed up the process, though this detailing would be a challenge to duplicate.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Sweet Tee. Is the sleeve set in or seamed?
Hi Carol,
Great question! For this lovely tee, after joining Shoulders, you will pick up and knit each sleeve in the round.
Best,
Cassy
Will this yarn hold it’s shape or will it stretch with washing/wearing? Love the pattern, what level knitter would this be suitable for?
Hello Bonnie,
Thank you for reaching out! This beautiful bamboo yarn will hold up well over time. I would say this is an intermediate project.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi, Do you think Silken Straw would work for this? Technically it’s a sport weight, but I have enough yardage and I think this pattern would show off the yarn and my guess is that I could match the gauge. It reminds me of your silken straw sweater but I like that this one has a bit more detail and shaping. I would swatch first, but since you created both patterns, I thought I might get your take on it Thanks, Julia
Hello Julia,
Thank you for reaching out! I think this could work! Before you do anything else, you will need to knit up a gauge swatch. I hope this helps and let us know how it goes!
-Marilla
Hello, I love this pattern and while it looks daunting to me I really want to try. Would it work to use German short rows instead of wrap and turn in this pattern?
Hi Helen,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, you can almost always substitute German Short Rows for wrap and turns, and this top is no exception! When you substitute German Short Rows, you do have to slightly modify the pattern by working one extra stitch before turning. You can get more detailed instructions on how to do this in our German Short Row tutorial!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Thank you Julianna. I just discovered German short rows and find them so easy to do. The tutorial you referenced was great and explained the modification needed perfectly.
What cast on is used for this model?
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for reaching out! For this, and for most of our projects, we use and recommend a Long Tail Cast On.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Do you have a guide for knitting this with 3/4 length or elbow length sleeves?
Thank you
Hi Susanne,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately we don’t have instructions for knitting this top with longer sleeves, but it shouldn’t be too hard to modify it on your own! Once you have knit the sleeves to the short length in the pattern, I would suggest simply continuing on knitting, working a decrease at the beginning and end of a round every inch or so to taper the sleeves gradually, and trying on the sleeves as you go to make sure you are happy with the fit. Since the sleeves are the last step in the pattern, it should be quite easy to try on the top frequently and make sure the sleeves turn out just how you want them to!
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Will this pattern work with silk? TIA
Hi Jill
Thanks for the great question! I think this tee would be beautiful in silk, and the Spectrum Silk would be a great substitution. I would recommend swatching first, and making sure you can get the recommended gauge of 26 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches. We can’t wait to see what you create!
Best
Jessica
Hi. Can you remind me what is meant by 5 inches of easement?
I am trying to decide which size to knit and cannot remember about How easements work.
Thank you!
Stephanie
Hi Stephanie,
Great question! Ease refers to the difference in measurement between the chest of the garment and the actual chest measurement of the wearer. In this case, since our model is wearing a size with five inches of ease, that means the tee measures five inches larger at the bust than her actual bust measurement.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Thank you, so the “actual chest circumference” in inches, “with 2–6 inches of ease,” do I still need to add on say 5 inches to determine which size? Or is that somehow included in the pattern automatically?
Also, since the front and back are worked separately, can they be done on the circular needles together – each at the same time? Like magic loop?
Thanks again!
Stephanie
Never mind about the fit, I re-read and have the answer but I would still like to know about using the magic loop and casting on the front and back/working each at the same time separately and then joining.
Thank you,
Stephanie
Hi Stephanie,
Yes, you could work both the back and front of the hem at the same time using separate balls of yarn on the same needle if you wish! It isn’t necessary to use magic loop since both pieces are worked back and forth in rows and not in the round, but it could be a little confusing because the front and back hems are not exactly the same. The back hem is a basic rectangle, while the front hem starts narrower and includes the first of the increases that create the diagonal lines at the bottom of the top. If you decide to do this, I would recommend reading through the instructions for both pieces thoroughly before you start so you know how each piece will be worked!
Best,
Julianna
Ok. I made my swatch. I get 3 3/4 Inches but if I stretch it, I easily get 4 inches. I hate to go up on the needle size because I do not own a 3 I all these lengths. Are there other options?
Thank you !
Stephanie
Hi Stephanie,
I would recommend blocking your swatch to see if it will turn out to the correct gauge! Most plant-based yarns, including Burnish, tend to relax and grow slightly when washed and blocked, so it’s quite possible that’s all you need to do – it’s really a good idea to wash your swatch the same way you intend to wash your finished top so you don’t get any unpleasant surprises the first time you launder it. Also, for future reference, it’s much more accurate to cast on more stiches than you need to measure when knitting a gauge swatch. Everyone’s edge stitches tend to be a little distorted and difficult to measure, so it’s best to not include them. For this pattern, I would cast on about 30 stitches and knit a 5 inch square, and then count how many stitches and rows are in the center four inches of the square after blocking.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Would it be possible in the future to model the pattern in a large or XL so we more endowed women can see what it would look like on us? Say on a woman who is about a 40-44 ” bust size?
Hi Genie,
Thanks for reaching out! We really do appreciate that bodies come in all shapes and sizes and share your concern that patterns be as inclusive as possible. Since last spring, all of our new sweaters fit at least a 60-inch chest, but we agree that we can do better showing them on more diverse models! I will certainly pass your feedback along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
Is this yarn a fingering weight or sport weight?
Hi Kim,
Thanks for writing in! Burnish can substitute for either fingering or sport weight yarns in most patterns!
Best,
Julianna
I need help deciding which size to knit. I have had breast cancer with no reconstruction and my bust is 32”, hips are 36”. Ease always confuses me.
Help!
Hi Clare,
Thanks for writing in! Figuring out the exact right size to knit can be tricky for everyone, but I hope I can help! Because this top is very similar to a standard t-shirt, if you have one that you especially like the fit of, I would recommend measuring the chest of that shirt and choose a size that is as close to that measurement as possible. Our pattern includes a full schematic of all the finished garment measurements, so you could also compare the measurement across the shoulders to make sure your chosen size will be a good fit!
Best,
Julianna
I have finished the tee shirt pattern. Want to wash and then block, but I can’t believe that this will be possible in the washing machine. If I hand wash, what product do you recommend ?
Thanks,
Theresa
Hi Theresa,
Thanks for writing in! It can be a bit intimidating to throw something you’ve worked so hard on into the washing machine, but I assure you we have machine washed Burnish with great results! If you would like a little reassurance, you can always knit a swatch with your leftover yarn and throw it in with your next load of laundry to see how it turns out. You may certainly hand wash Burnish if you prefer. We love our Sweater Soap for hand knits, however you choose to wash them!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I think I have read that rayon isn’t elastic. Is that correct? If so, this tee looks like it might be hard to get on and off, even if the neck is bound off stretchy. Is it?
Hi Sharon,
Thanks for writing in! Although rayon yarn, including Burnish, isn’t elastic in and of itself, the knit stitch has quite a bit of inherent elasticity. Cotton yarns are usually just as inelastic as rayon but still result in garments that are comfortable and easy to wear, even if they don’t have as much spring as a stretchier fiber like wool. As long as you bind off loosely, which we indicate in the pattern, your tee should have plenty of stretchiness to get on and off over your head!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Thanks, Julianna! You guys are the greatest! I just ordered the pattern and yarn – can’t wait!
I’ve worked several rows of the back hem and, being stockinette stitch, the fabric is curling. I’m tempted to sort over with seed stitch, but that wouldn’t work in the front, with the increases. Will the hem lay flat after blocking? Obviously, it does in the picture.
Hi Sharon,
Burnish will indeed block out beautifully and lays quite flat without much coaxing! If you still have your swatch, I would recommend washing and blocking your swatch so you can get an idea of how the finished hem will look.
Best,
Julianna
I did as you suggested, and you are quite right, the fabric lays beautifully flat. Thank you!
Hi Julianna, my question is in regards I have not knit a sweater before, could you please explain what ease means and how it will affect the size I should choose. If I choose size 41 3/4 should I increase 6 1/4 inches. Thank you for your help and the lovely pattern.
Hi Helen,
Thanks for reaching out! Ease is like a little bit of wiggle room between sizes, for example the size 41 3/4 fits a chest circumference of 36–40″. If you are a 36″ bust this size Tee will fit a little looser, if you are a 40″ bust this size tee will fit a bit tighter. So depending on your measurement and the fit you desire for the Tee you can choose the appropriate pattern size to follow!
I hope this clarifies things, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi Julianna, I am almost finished with this pattern, I need the sleeves and neck but after I but the shoulder seam together I realized that the arm whole is 2.5 inches too big is there a way I can make it the correct size. I measured the 13 inches from the wrong area (I think that’s what I did honestly I don’t know what I did wrong) Can you please help me. Thank You.
Helen
Hi Helen,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, there isn’t a way to fix the arms holes to be the correct size without frogging the work. You likely did measure from the wrong spot, so I would suggest taking out your knitting to before the armholes and re-work it with the accurate measurements!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
I’m enjoying making this tee, in the smallest size. I’m having a problem with the measurements for the back shaping armholes section. If you add up the number of rows required in the instructions from the set up row to the final row it comes to 73 rows! I think the problem might be in the final instruction – decrease every 8th row 6 times – that already gives 48 rows, which is the sum total of the front. This is at the top of page 5.
I would be grateful if you would get back to me on this.
Sorry, I realise it’s me that’s got it wrong! It’s just that I’m worried about picking up 46 stitches for the sleeve when there are 72 rows! It’s going to be tricky to make it smooth.
Hi Gwynnedd,
I’m glad to hear you figured it out! I would recommend picking up approximately 2 stitches for every 3 rows for the smoothest possible seam. Hope this helps, and don’t hesitate to reach out if you have any more questions.
All the best,
Lili
When starting the body, under Join Front &Back Hems, it says “Knit to last stitch (removing markers), slip1 onto cable stitch holder and hold in front of work, with right side of Back Hem facing you”
Can you kindly explain what 1 am I to place onto cable stitch holder? The last one of the knit row? What does hold in front of work mean? What does hold and what work?
I’m sure I sound positively dumb but please help! I have no idea what the pattern is telling me.
Hi Angie,
Thanks for reaching out. We’ve also seen the appointment you’ve scheduled for 1-On-1 Project Help! I hope I can answer your question sufficiently here, but if you’re still unsure, we’d be happy to keep the appointment to explain this in more depth.
The stitch that you’re placing on the cable stitch holder is the final stitch of the row you’ve just knit across on the right side of the Front Hem. On the Joining Round, you start by knitting every stitch until you have just one left. This is the stitch you need to place on the cable stitch holder!
In answer to your question about what “hold in front of work” means, that has to do with how cabling works as a technique! When you place a stitch on a cable stitch holder, you get to decide which direction it hangs before you knit the stitch on it. It can either hang in front of the work or in back of the work. In this case, you want to let the cable stitch holder fall so that it’s in front of your work (or, on the right side of your work) while you’re knitting the next stitch.
I’d highly recommend reading through our Cable tutorial to get a better sense of this! There are many pictures, so you’ll be able to see exactly where the cable stitch holder should be placed when the pattern indicates to “hold in front of work.”
I hope this helps clarify things, and please let me know if you’d still like to keep your 1-On-1 appointment!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much. I understand now and I watched the cabe
tutorial and get that whole in front and back hanging thing. You
guys are so great. I won’t need the appt. and will cancel. Thank you.
Would cattail silk be fine?
Hi Diane,
Thanks for reaching out. I actually wouldn’t recommend using Cattail Silk for this project, since it’s designed for a sportweight yarn, whereas Cattail Silk is fingering weight! If you’re looking for a t-shirt pattern that you can use Cattail Silk for, then I’d highly recommend the Lovely Lightweight Tee, which was designed specifically for this yarn. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
Thanks, I have that pattern too.
And some more Cattail Silk for the Lightweight Raglan – that I have knitted several times.
Thanks
Diane
How do adjust the pattern for a smaller size? I bought the pattern and Burnish in several different colors. I am about 95-100 pounds, very small chest (mastectomy) 32”ish, so the smallest size on the pattern is still too big.
Hi Clare,
Thanks for writing in! I’d recommend aiming for a smaller gauge. If you use size US 1 or 1.5 needles, that should cause every stitch to be smaller which will result in a smaller size while following the pattern as written!
All the best,
Lili
Would this pattern work with Cotton Pure? I have a whole cone. Thanks in advance.
Hi Viki,
Thanks for reaching out. Yes, this pattern should work with Cotton Pure! Since you already have the yarn, I would recommend making a gauge swatch to make sure you can meet the gauge of the pattern. You may need to size up or down your needles though, in order to achieve the correct gauge!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks Lili, much appreciated 🙂
Trying to figure out my size – I did read what your website says about ease and fit – but I’m 36, which for this contour tee can either smallest OR second smallest size.
Hi Kathie,
Great question! The decision lies in how much ease you’d like the tee to fit with. If you knit the smallest size, it’ll fit with 2 1/4 inches of ease, which is relatively close fitting. And if you knit the second smallest size, it’ll fit with 5 3/4 inches of ease, which would be a more relaxed fit. The choice comes down to your preferred fit!
All the best,
Lili
Hi – I just started this pattern using the Burnish yarn. The number of cast on stitches seems huge for the small size.
Are the number of cast on stitches in the new pattern different for Burnish than they are for Santolina?
Thank you,
Hi Deborah,
Thank you for writing in! This pattern was only reworked in a new yarn but the instructions including the cast-on numbers are all the same. One thing I would recommend is to begin with a gauge swatch to check that your tension is the same as the pattern. For the smallest size, you should cast on 124 sts for the back hem which works out to 19.076 inches, and the front is cast on with 98 stitches, increasing to 124 stitches. This gives a total circumference of 38.152 inches which is right on track for the smallest size. I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella