Little Moons Lace Wrap
Like the moon making a guest appearance at life’s great parties, our Little Moons Lace Wrap brings a special glow to summer weddings, beach bonfires, and backyard potlucks.
In a classic Milanese lace pattern, this beauty is deceptively simple to work, with just 10 rows of single-stitch increases and decreases. We love the striking diagonal ridges interspersed with rows of lacy crescents, delicate but assertive!
We made our Little Moons Lace Wrap with our newest yarn, Burnish. A rayon made from bamboo fiber, Burnish looks and behaves a lot like silk but is more durable, machine washable, and vegan… Very nice!
Exceptionally beautiful, shiny and cool, our Little Moons Lace Wrap casts a veritable moonbeam, even under a cloudy sky!
If you love the yarn used in this project, you’ll love all of our other yarn, too! Explore our 35+ lovingly created yarn collections, in nearly every natural fiber and spectacular color you can imagine… Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn shop!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Jake Canton. Click here to see even more of Jake’s designs!
UPDATE: NOW IN SANTOLINA
JUNE 2022
Our Little Moons Wrap is now in lovely Santolina, a combination of 70% organically grown cotton, 20% rayon from bamboo, and 10% hemp. It is soft with a gentle shine and a lightness that makes it fantastic for three-season accessories. Add in the gorgeous drape you’d expect from these plant fibers, and you’ll be over the moon for our Little Moons Lace Wrap!
Share your progress + connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoLittleMoonsLaceWrap, and #PurlSohoBurnish. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 4 skeins of Purl Soho’s Burnish, 100% rayon from bamboo. Each skein is 339 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 1,242 yards required. We used Gray Willow.
- US 6 (4 mm) straight or circular needles
Gauge
22 stitches and 34 rows = 4 inches in stitch pattern
Size
Unblocked Dimensions: 14½ wide x 77 inches long
Finished Dimensions: 18 inches wide x 78 inches long
Notes
Stitch Multiple
Worked over a multiple of 6 plus 10 stitches.
Increases
RLI (Right Lifted Increase): Lift right leg of the stitch below the next stitch on the left-hand needle onto the left-hand needle and knit it. [1 stitch increased]
For more information about this technique, please visit our Lifted Increases Tutorial.
m1R purlwise (Make One Right Purlwise, worked on the wrong side): With the left needle, pick up the horizontal strand between the last stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from back to front, then purl through front loop of the strand. This makes a right-leaning increase on the right, or knit, side of the fabric. [1 stitch increased]
For more information about this technique, please visit our Make 1 Purlwise Tutorial.
Pattern
Cast on 100 stitches.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
Now follow either the Written or Chart Instructions, both below.
LITTLE MOONS LACE: WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS
Row 1 (right side): K6, *knit 2 together (k2tog), yarn over (yo), k4, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k2tog, RLI (see Notes), k2.
Row 2 (wrong side): P3, m1R purlwise (see Notes), *purl 2 together (p2tog), p3, yo, p1, repeat from * to last 7 stitches, p2tog, p5.
Row 3: K4, *k2tog, k2, yo, k2, repeat from * to last 6 stitches, k2tog, k2, RLI, k2.
Row 4: P5, m1R purlwise, *p2tog, p1, yo, p3, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p2tog, p3.
Row 5: K2, *k2tog, k4, yo, repeat from * to last 8 stitches, k2tog, k4, RLI, k2.
Row 6: P1, m1R purlwise, *p2tog, p4, yo repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p2tog, p1.
Row 7: K3, *yo, k3, k2tog, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 8: P2, *p2tog, p2, yo, p2, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2.
Row 9: K5, *yo, k1, k2tog, k3, repeat from * to last 5 stitches yo, k1, k2tog, k2.
Row 10: P2, *p2tog, yo, p4, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2.
Repeat Rows 1-10 until piece measures 77 inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 9.
Go on to Finishing section below.
LITTLE MOONS LACE: CHART
NOTE: New to reading charts? Unravel the mysteries with our Reading A Chart Tutorial!
Starting in the bottom right corner of the Chart below, work right-side (odd number) rows from right to left and wrong-side (even number) rows from left to right.
Work Rows 1–10 until piece measures approximately 77 inches from cast-on edge or to desired length, ending with Row 9.
KEY
CHART
NOTE: Want to see it bigger? Download this chart (and key) as a PDF!
Go on to Finishing section below.
FINISHING
Next Row (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
With right side facing you, bind off knitwise.
Weave in ends and block as desired.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Thank you for this Beautiful wrap created with a vegan yarn — so happy about that! I just placed my order so I can knit one 🙂
Beautiful pattern
I love the pattern. I would like to knit it in wool for warmth. Will any fingering weight wool work?
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for the question! It will! I would probably suggest a fingering weight yarn that has a good drape and if you are working with wool, you may well need to block a bit more aggressively than we did here. I knit up a little swatch in wool and it turned out lovely! So long as you are working with a fingering weight yarn, you should not need to make adjustments. Due be sure to work a gauge swatch in pattern to make sure that you like the fabric and that you do not need to adjust your cast on, otherwise, you should be all set!
Best,
Cassy
Is Linen Quill an appropriate yarn for the Little Moons wrap pattern? Do I need to make any pattern adjustments if I use Linen Quill?
Hi Mary,
Thanks for writing in! You can certainly use Linen Quill for this lovely wrap! No modifications will need to be made and due to the larger yardage of Linen Quill, you will need just 3 skeins!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
This is gorgeous! Can’t wait to finish my current project and start this one! Thank you!
I am somewhat of a novice knitter. Do you think this project is doable?
Hi Joyce,
Great question! Lace can be a bit more of an intermediate to advanced skill but it need not be. My suggestion would be to grab some scarp yarn and needles and cast on 28 stitches and give the pattern a try. If the swatch works out, you are good to go! We are also happy to answer any questions that you may have!
Best,
Cassy
Thank you for asking. I was wondering if I dared to try. What I like and what I know aren’t always the same level of expertise. I will try a sample.
Love this stitch pattern! Also love that you make your patterns available already in PrintFriendly format – so helpful!!!
Can I knit this gorgeous scarf in lace weight yarn?
Hi Gladys,
Certainly! You will want to adjust your needle size to match the yarn you choose. You can also increase your cast on if you like the size of our version per the instructions in the notes above!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Is there a video on this anywhere? I’d love to do this but work much better when I can watch to learn.
Hi Amy,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately we don’t have the resources at the moment to do a video tutorial of this stitch. I will certainly pass your request along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
Pleaaaaseee make a video tutorial or even just a video of somebody making this and I can slow it down myself. 🙂 I can only learn by watching and this project looks soooo beautiful!
Beautiful yarn! Can it be used in patterns that call for silk yarn of similar weight?
Hi Alison,
Thank you so much for the kind words! Yes, Burnish has a drape and sheen very similar to silk, so it works quite well as a fingering weight silk substitute.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Omg I love this beautiful pattern! How could I make it into a baby blanket? Just cast on multiples of 100?
I just saw in the notes the bit about stitch multiple – my bad. Thanks for including that!
Would Linen Quill also work for this project?
Hi Mary,
Thanks for writing in! You can certainly use Linen Quill for this lovely wrap! No modifications will need to be made and due to the larger yardage of Linen Quill, you will need just 3 skeins!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Can you publish a chart for the lace pattern?
Hi Frances,
Thanks for reaching out! At this time we do not have a chart available for this pattern; however, I will be sure to pass your request along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
Hello,
I would like to make it it 2 colors. Do you think it’s possible? What would be your advice?
Thank you for this pattern anyway!
Hi Delphine,
Thanks for writing in! You certainly could use two colors if you like. I would probably suggest color blocking as opposed to striping as the stitch pattern could get lost in the switching back and forth of colors. I would recommend working on a little swatch with some scrap yarn in two colors to get an idea on how it would look!
Best,
Cassy
Bonjour Cassy ou Julianna,
j’adore ce motif et avant de me lancer, je mémorise le point sur 28 mailles,
mais…à partie de la rangée 7, rien ne va plus…
J’ai recommencé plusieurs fois sans succès.
Merci de votre aide!
Palou
Hi Palou,
Thanks for writing in! I am so sorry to hear that you are having difficulties! I am not sure what might be happening for you to have difficulties at this point in the pattern. If you would like, you can send in images to us at [email protected] and we can take a look and see if anything stands out!
Best,
Cassy
Hello Cassy and Julianna!
There’s an error in row 6.
It should read:
P1,m1R , *p2tog, yo, p4…
not P1,m1R , *p2tog, p4…
Happy knitting
Palou
Hi Palou,
Thanks for writing in! I just knit up a little swatch of the pattern and row 6 does appear to be correct as written in the pattern.
Best,
Cassy
now i am confused. Row 6 always seemed to be where the problem began. I have tried ten, yes 10, times – i knit about 13 or 14 rows and realized the pattern has changed. I never end up with the right amount of stitches at the end of a row – so is the pattern correct? or is the message from Palou with the change correct? Or should I just forget this and start a new project. Frustrated
HI Lisa,
Thanks for the question! The pattern itself is correct. The change noted by Palou would alter the look of the pattern. Every increase in this pattern is paired with a decrease so each row will have the same number of stitches. It can be a challenge to get the pattern down in the beginning. I have found that it takes a few repeats of the pattern to get used to the pattern and get the stitch repeat down. I like to say the repeat as I do it until a get it down. This also helps me keep track of the stitch pattern and not miss any stitches.
I do hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thank so much for the tip. I’m starting over going slowly and saying the pattern aloud. Determined to make this!!
also just attempted this 4 times before finally getting it right – i think the challenge is when the yarn overs happen at the end of the repeat, it’s easy to lose one along the way. stay with it and count it aloud, it really helped me!
Hi Cassy,
Really excited to make this project but I too find that row six is where I no longer have the right stitch count.
Hi Diana,
Thanks for reaching out! I know this row can be a bit tricky, to help make it a little easier I suggest writing out the row in longhand and crossing off each step as you go! This will help you keep track and make sure you end up with the right stitch count!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi,
Is there a Tosh Merino weight that I could use for this pattern? Thank you for your help!
Hi Katrina,
Thanks for writing in! The Burnish that we used for this lovely wrap is a fingering weight so you could use Tosh Merino Light. Tosh Merino light is a bit finer than Burnish, so I would recommend going down a needle size and you should be set!
Best,
Cassy
Just finished the Terrace Wrap with the Cattail silk, turned out beautiful! Do you think that yarn would be good for this project? I would guess I would just need 2 skeins?
Thanks-
Eileen
Hi Eileen,
Great idea! I think that this wrap would be lovely in Cattail Silk! As Cattail Silk is a bit thinner than Burnish, I would suggest going down a needle size and other than that, 2 skeins should get you to a wrap a touch smaller than ours here!
Best,
Cassy
I started the wrap with cattail silk. I went to a size 5 needle and cast on 106. It is turning out quite lovely, but I do think I will end up needing more than 2 skeins to get the length I want.
Best,
Phillip
I’m a left handed knitter. I find I have to learn each new stitch from a left handed point of view. Sometimes when I do this the stitch design
doesn’t end up looking the same. I want to make this scarf but want definitive lefty directions. Any advice for we lefties? Is there a reliable book that converts right handed stitches to left handed stitches, I rely on the internet for left handed instruction but the
conversions are not always reliable. One expert knitter once told me
to get over it and just learn to knit right handed. Is this the best way
to go forward?
Hello Beatriz,
Thank you for reaching out! Because knitting is technically ambidextrous, many left handed knitters learn to knit the same way right handed knitters knit. It is much easier in the long run, If you want to knit from patterns, to not have to translate every pattern. I have found that it is much easier for left handed knitters to pick up the Continental way of knitting rather than the English Style. This is because you are using your left hand to guide the working yarn rather than your right.
I don’t know how you knit now, but this might make your path a bit easier.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Which cast-on is used in the sample? Have the beautiful burnished yarn and cannot wait to cast-on.
Hello Carolyn,
Thank you for reaching out! We used a long tail cast on for our wrap.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
What a lovely pattern! I’m thinking of making it wider and in a wool/silk mix fingering. I’m less used to written directions than charts so forgive if this is a daft qu – Are place markers useful for the stitch repeat? Or does the repeat shift from row to row. Thanks!
Hello Angela,
Thank you for reaching out! The repeat will shift from row to row so markers will sadly not work.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello. This may be a rookie mistake/question.
I found that when I get to the end of the * sequence , I don’t have enough stitches to finish the sequence and do the remaining stitches. Hope that makes sense.
Any help is welcomed. I am starting my 2nd round of the 10 rows and wonder if I need to start again.
Thanks so much.
Pam
Hello Pam,
Thank you for reaching out! Are you at the end of row one in your 2nd round of the 10 row sequence? Do you no longer have 100 stitches? If your count is no longer 100 stitches it sounds like something might have gone wrong at some point.
I hope this makes sense and let us know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Am I the only one confused about the 17th stitch that appears in row 6 and disappears in row 7? Help! My yos do not line up properly!
Hello Alex,
Thank you for reaching out! It sounds like you might have gotten off by a stitch? Is this a stitch that you are seeing in the pattern?
I hope I can help!
-Marilla
I love this pattern and have knit through 2 sections and my knitting is much to loose so I’m loosing the stitch definition. I switched to wood needles but I wonder should I go from a 6 needle to a 5 or 4?
Thank you!
Hi Kim,
Thanks for reaching out! Lace stitches tend to look a bit loose and disorganized before blocking, so it’s possible that your wrap will be fine once it is blocked. I would start by putting what you have done on a long piece of scrap yarn and spray blocking it, stretching it to 18 inches wide. You can then evaluate how the finished wrap will look and can measure your gauge, which should be 22 stitches and 34 rows to 4 inches in the stitch pattern after blocking. If you find that your gauge is still too loose, you could do a quick swatch on a US 5 to see if it will work or if you will need to go down to a US 4.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi,
I just want to make sure I am reading the pattern correctly (sorry if it’s a stupid question)- after casting on 100 stitches, I purl to the end of the row (the setup row)? And afterward, begin with row 1?
Thanks for your patience!
Hi and thanks for writing in! Yes, that is correct, you will purl the set-up row once, then, beginning with row 1, repeat rows 1 through 10 until the wrap is 77 inches long.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Dear Purl Soho Team,
are selvage stitches included in the pattern? E.g.
first row K6 – does that mean “knit two selvage stitche and then knit 6” or does it mean “knit 6, the first two of which are selvage stitches”
I am a huge fan of your website! Thanks.
Regards
christelle
Hello Christelle,
Thank you for reaching out! The selvedge is included in the patten. You can just follow the pattern as written!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
I bought the Burnish in scarlet with hopes of creating this beautiful piece. I have to say, I have frogged it ten times already, never getting past 12 or 15 rows always finding myself with the wrong number of stitches at the end of the row, and seeing that the little moons are not really shaped correctly. UGH! I am so frustrated. I can’t seem to concentrate, I guess. I have reverted to counting each row. I cannot listen to music, conversation or a tv show while knitting. Any chance there is another pattern you have that will lend itself nicely to the Burnish fiber? Totally Frustrated!
Hello Lisa,
I’m sorry to hear that you are having such a frustrating experience!! Burnish will work beautifully with any fingering weight project. I would reccomend checking out our Little Ladders Scarf or our Terrace Wrap.
I will also say that once you have successfully completed the sequence a couple of times for wrap, the stitch becomes much easer and you do get into a groove. If you have any questions about the stitch pattern let us know!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Is it possible to knit this narrower…perhaps 9 inches wide?
Hello Beth,
Thank you for reaching out! To make this wrap narrower you will just want to make sure to cast on a multiple of 6 plus 4 stitches. This means that with a gauge of 22 stitches per 4 inches in stitch pattern you will need to cast on 52 stitches to get a 9″ width.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Explain the “rayon” made from bamboo. Isn’t rayon a manufactured fabric made of cellulose?
Hi Carol,
Thanks for reaching out and great question! Rayon is made from cellulose! Cellulose can be sources from a variety of sources including trees, bamboo and other plants! Burnish is essentially a rayon, a fiber created by chemically breaking down plant materials (bamboo, in this case) into a pulp, which is then extruded into fibers. We are happy to say that this rayon meets all the eco-toxicological standards required by Europe’s Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals regulation.
Best,
Cassy
Since others are asking about using different types of yarn; I decided I would ask about using Egyptian Mercerized Cotton #1-3. I feel it would work, but I need your expertise and also wondering if I should use the same size needles or go to a different size. This pattern is beautiful and I’m looking forward to starting this. Thank you for your help!
Hello Sue,
Thank you for reaching out! A cotton yarn will work beautifully for this project, though it will likely be a bit heavy. To figure out your needle size, I would reccomend knitting up a gauge swatch. We got a gauge of 22 stitches per 4″ in stitch pattern with our Burnish yarn, which is a fingering weight yarn, using a US6 needle.
I would do a little test swatch and go from there.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
For Row no 6, what is the correct one? P1, MRI purlwise *p2tog, p4, yo*, left 3 p2tog, p1 or P1, MRI purlwise *p2tog, yo, p4,* left 3 p2tog, p1 ? If i use brooklyn tweed vale (lace weight) what size of needle that i should use? If i use cattail silk, what kind of needle that i should use?
Hi Lily,
Thanks for reaching out! Row 6 is correct as written in the pattern! That is to say that is reads P1, m1R purlwise, *p2tog, p4, yo repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p2tog, p1.
To use Vale, I think that you will want to try a US 4. It may take a bit of trial and error as far as needle size to get the look that you want but I think that a US 4 would be a good place to start! For Cattail Silk, I think a US 4 needle should work! Again, you will want to knit a gauge swatch to help you determine yoru cast on and to see if you like the design with this needle size!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi there!
I’ve been attempting to knit this beautiful wrap since it was posted on the website, but I, like a few others above, am having trouble at row 6. I haven’t made it past the swatch-making stage, because I *consistently* end up having one fewer stitch after completing row 6. The issue seems to be contained only to row 6. I have slowly and carefully attempted to swatch this pattern more than 15 times now and I am quite an experienced knitter who has successfully knitted lace patterns before. I acknowledge that Cassy and Julianna confirm that the pattern is correct, but would you either (1) please re-check row 6 or (2) post a video showing how to swatch the pattern so we can figure out the issue many of us are having?
Kind regards
Hi Olivia,
Thanks for writing in! I am sorry to hear that this row is presenting challenges. We do want to assure you that row 6 is correct is written. We have re-swatched it and have come out with the correct number of stitches. I find that it is sometimes helpful to write out the row in full. I am also including the number of stitches used in each section as well (Please note that I don’t note the new stitches created in these stitch counts).
Row 6 in full reads: P1, m1R purlwise, *p2tog, p4, yo repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p2tog, p1.
Row 6 written in long form reads: P1, m1R purlwise, p2tog, p4, yo, p2tog, p4, yo, p2tog, p4, yo, p2tog, p4, yo, p2tog, p4, yo, p2tog, p4, yo, p2tog, p4, yo, p2tog, p4, yo, p2tog, p4, yo, p2tog, p4, yo, p2tog, p4, yo, p2tog, p4, yo, p2tog, p4, yo, p2tog, p4, yo, p2tog, p4, yo, p2tog, p4, yo, p2tog, p1.
The stitch count for each section will be…
P1, m1R purlwise (uses 1 stitch of the 100 stitches)
*p2tog, p4, yo repeat from * to last 3 stitches (each repeat uses 6 stitches and is repeated 16 times for a total of 96 stitches used)
p2tog, p1 (uses 3 stitches)
I so hope that this helps!
Cassy
I’m not a knitting expert by any means but I myself had trouble with row 6- I think the main issue I found was that I would forget to do the last yarn-over (because of the way the pattern is written) and would come up a stitch short when finishing up Row 7. Hope that helps!
The long form written out in your comment is missing the yarn over at each “p2tog, p4, YO” repeat.
Is there supposed to be a YO at the end of each p4 repeat?
I am also struggling with row 6.
Hi Amanda,
My deepest apologies! I have corrected the long form version to include the YOs and am so sorry for any mix up.
I hope that this helps with row 6!
Cassy
Hi. Hope this question makes sense:
When I get to row 3 and do K4, *k2tog, I am encountering what looks like an X on my left needle and am having trouble figuring out if I’m supposed to knit into the top legs or bottom legs of the X for the next two stitches. Something funky happens when I knit into the bottom legs but it seems very tricky to get into the top legs. Sorry I can’t think of how to describe this better.
Hi Lucy,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you might be wrapping your yarn the wrong direction when working the yarn over on the previous purl row. When working a yarn over between two purls, the yarn should be going over the top of the left hand needle first and then coming back towards you between the needles – we demonstrate this in our Yarn Over tutorial. If you wrap it the other way, the resulting stitch will be twisted and could look like an “x” along with the stitch it is attached to. If you work everything correctly, all the stitches should be facing the same direction for Row 3.
I do hope that helps, but if not, please feel free to send us a picture of your work at [email protected] and we will be happy to take a look!
Best,
Julianna
I am a intermediate knitter and found this pattern very challenging at first. What really helped me was printing out the pattern and writing down where the yarn overs are knitted/purled in each row. This way I can see if I am off, and it’s probably because I forgot a yarn over in the previous row. And then I just force a yarn over which seems to work. Hopes this helps.
Hello,
I bought Tosh Merino Light in Nassau Blue to make this, but I’m starting to think that Nassau Blue might be too busy and overshadow the design. What do you think? Would it be better to use it for the Open Air Wrap or Terrace Wrap? Thanks for your advice.
Kat
Hello Kat,
Thank you for reaching out! If you are feeling that the pattern is getting lost, the Open Air Wrap would be beautiful in the Nassau Blue. It is a simple pattern, so the yarn will be able to shine!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Can I knit this on a circular needle? I haven’t been knitting long, but I read elsewhere that it would be necessary to convert the pattern, making all purls into knits and all knits into purls. Is that true?
Hi Darien,
Thanks for reaching out! The ease of converting a pattern to knitting in the round can vary greatly depending on the difficulty of the stitch pattern. Essentially, you will knit the right side rows as written, but for the wrong side rows, switch knits to purls and vice versa and also read the row in the opposite direction. In the case of a pattern that has a plain purl row on the wrong side you can easily switch to just knitting, but in a pattern like this one that includes increases, decreases, and yarn overs on the wrong side, it becomes much more difficult. Unfortunately, we don’t have instructions for knitting this pattern in the round, but I will certainly pass your request along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
Could I use your Cattail silk yarn to make this product? Thank you for your help.
Hi Sheila,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, I think this stitch would be absolutely lovely in Cattail Silk! It is a bit thinner than Burnish, so I would suggest knitting a gauge swatch in pattern using US 4 or 5 needles. After blocking your swatch, you can measure your stitches per inch, multiply that number by 18 inches, and round to the nearest multiple of 6 plus 4 stitches to determine how many stitches to cast on.
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Could I use Cattail Silk yarn instead of Burnish yarn? Thank you for your help.
Sincerely,
Sheila
Hi Sheila,
Thanks for reaching out! I would definitely recommend knitting a gauge swatch first, but yes, this wrap would be absolutely wonderful in Cattail Silk! Cattail Silk is ever so slightly lighter weight than Burnish, so you may find that it is happier on a US 5 needle, in which case you can add 6 or 12 stitches to cast on amount to make sure the wrap doesn’t turn out too narrow.
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Hi, I was wondering if I can Knit this patten making It half the size given…instead of 18” – can I make it 9” wide? And if so, how many stitches would I cast on, etc. thanks. Barbara
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for being in touch with your question! We agree that this pattern would work up very nicely in a smaller size. You will need to cast on 52 stitches for a 9″ wide scarf after blocking.
I hope this helps!
Gaby
Hi!
I am several repeats into this pattern (about 4.5 inches) and I have a question about the edges. Looking at the right side, the left edge is clearly scalloped. The right edge however looks straight. Have I missed something in the pattern?
Thanks!
Amanda
Hi Amanda,
Thank you for writing in! Your left edge may have slightly more scallop to it than the right edge before blocking, but the two edges should look fairly similar. The fourth photo from the top is a great example of how our edges turned out. If you’re finding that your selvedge edges look a bit different once your project is complete, you can accentuate or minimize the scallop during the blocking process. I hope this is helpful!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
Thanks!
I am having problems with row 6 also. A chart would help but I want to be sure the p2tog is to p the yarn over in the previous row
with a purl stitch. Not used to p2tog including a yarn over.
Hi Donna,
Thanks for asking about this! You’re correct, you’ll be doing a p2tog that includes a yarnover! I hope this helps, let me know if there’s anything else you’re wondering about!
Best,
Cassandra
Hi,
I love this pattern and I’d like to try with different yarn. Do you think the Cotton pure yarn will work?
thanks in advance,
Jin
Hi Jin
Thanks for writing in! Cotton Pure will work beautifully for this project, though it will likely be a bit heavy and increase the overall size of the wrap. I would recommend knitting up a gauge swatch in pattern to see if you like it, determine your correct needle size, and also if you need to adjust your cast on number ( a multiple of 6 + 4) I hope this helps!
Happy knitting!
Jessica
Could I use a fingering raw silk yarn for the Little Moons Lace Wrap knit pattern?
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for writing in! Our Little Moons Lace Wrap is written for sport-weight Burnish, so your yarn is a bit lighter, but you can use it with a bit of modification! I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch in pattern using a US 3 needle, or whatever size needle is recommended on the label for your yarn. You can then measure your stitches per inch and multiply that number by 14.5 inches and round to the nearest multiple of 6 plus 4 stitches to determine how many stitches to cast on.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Do you have a chart for the lace section of this scarf?
Hi Grace,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately, we don’t have a chart for this pattern – I’m so sorry about that! I will be sure to pass your request along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
I have just finished the Little Moons Wrap. It was a challenge, but I persevered! I used Burnish, as you suggested. What is the best way to block it? I have never used Burnish. This is by far the most challenging project, but worth it. I don’t want to spoil it by blocking the wrong way. Thanks! (BTW, I did use markers and it helped a lot! I placed the markers to warn me when I needed to knit or purl two together. On a knit row, knit two together BEFORE the marker. On a purl row, purl two together AFTER the marker. It may not be “proper” but it save me a lot of frustration.)
Hi Mary,
Thank you so much for sharing these helpful tips, and congratulations on the finished wrap! Burnish is surprisingly sturdy and can even be machine washed, but for a delicate open lace like this, I would recommend wet blocking it, starting with a cold water soak with a little gentle wool wash like our Sweater Soap.
All the best,
Julianna
Hi Cassy,
I’ve tried to knit a swatch of this pattern 8 times (no exaggeration), and by Row 5 I either have one too many stitches, or 1 too few. I’ve never even make it to everybody’s nemesis Row 6! I’m a careful, tenacious, intermediate knitter but I can’t figure out what I’m doing wrong here. I’ll have to come back to this one another time.
I hope the community keeps writing with troubleshooting questions and solutions because it’s such a beautiful pattern. Thank you for making it free.
Warmest,
Yeardley
I’m using Burnish yarn. How do you suggest adding a new ball of yarn? Thanks.
Hi Beverly,
Thanks for reaching out! Here is our tutorial on Adding a Ball of Yarn and how we do it in all our patterns!
All the best,
Gianna
I’d like to make this for a friend as a wedding gift. I don’t love synthetic materials and was hoping to use a combo of mineral silk and field linen.
Is that a reasonable substitute? The shiny nature of mineral silk seems like it would turn this into a shimmery dream.
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out! I think Mineral Silk and Field Linen could be a very interesting combination for this wrap! If you plan on doing that, I recommend working a gauge swatch prior to beginning to insure that you are consistent with the pattern! I also want to point out that the yarn that we have written this pattern for, Burnish, is not a synthetic fiber, it is actually completely plant based and made from bamboo, and is absolutely wonderful to work with!! Burnish is essentially a rayon, a fiber created by chemically breaking down plant materials (bamboo, in this case) into a pulp, which is then extruded into fibers! You can read more about this in the description section on the product page. I would even suggest using Burnish as we recommend and adding in Mineral Silk for a beautiful shimmer!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
I don’t see any comments about blocking Little Moons in Burnish Bamboo. Any suggestions? Thank you.
Hi Beverly,
Thanks for reaching out! You can block this wrap by soaking it in cold water and then laying flat to dry, I would recommend checking out our wonderful Blocking tutorial For more tips!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi! I noticed that one of the two long edges does not have a wave pattern like the other…should I block it straight or is it supposed to be blocked into little waves as well? Thanks:) beautiful pattern by the way and very easy to read!!
Hi Alessandra,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend blocking the wrap with the waves as well to get the most consistent look throughout!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
Hello
I love this pattern and would like to know how much yarn (Burnish) I will need to make a baby blanket.
A suggestion on size would also be helpful. I was thinking approximately 32 x 40
Thank you
Hi Antoinette,
Thanks for reaching out! This would be such a beautiful baby blanket! Typically our baby blanket dimensions are around 30 inches wide x 36 inches long, and luckily the stitch pattern is very easy to adjust! If your gauge is consistent with the pattern, I would suggest casting on 166 (the stitch multiple works over 6 plus 4 stitches) and 4 skeins of Burnish should be plenty!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
This question isn’t specifically about this project but as I work on it I find I’m having trouble with the yarn twisting. What am I doing wrong? How do I avoid it? Thanks
Hi Irma,
Thanks for reaching out! Working with plant-based fibers like Burnish can be a bit tricky since they are prone to twisting, I always recommend only pulling the yarn from around the exterior of the ball or cake, never from the center (this will help avoid twisting quite a bit!) also when you experience a twisting, it helps to use your thumb and pointer finger to continuously massage the strand where you find a twist, this will help soften the fibers a bit and relieve the twisting!
I hope these tips help, but if you are still experiencing twisting issues please email us a few photos to [email protected]
Warmly,
Gianna
Thank you.
Hello!
I knitted the scarf ( 100 stitches) and used only 3 of the 4 skeins to finish It…
Now I have 1 left: what can I make with It? I live in Belgium and do not send It back! It is the color Pale Celery
Thank you for your help!
Hi Vandenabeele,
Thanks for reaching out! I think the Knit Drawstring Bag + Backpack would be adorable, one skein of Burnish will be plenty for either the bag or backpack! Just be sure to check your gauge before beginning to ensure you are consistent with the pattern!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you would like any more suggestions!
Gianna
Hello,
Maybe I can knit a scarf with 1 skein of Burnish together with 1 skein left of Cattail Silk? What needles can I use?
Thank You!
Hi Kristin,
Thanks for reaching out! That’s a great idea! If you are planning on using the two yarns held together I would suggest using a US 3-5 needle depending on how tightly-knit you would like it!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Love this yarn and pattern. Wondering how much of the 4th skein you used to get to 77 inches. Thanks!
Hi Gail,
Thanks for reaching out! This wrap requires approximately 1,242 yards, and each skein of Burnish is 339 yards so you will use approximately 225 yards of the 4th skein leaving you with about 114 yards leftover!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
I just got passed the dastardly row 6! Thanks for writing the row, it totally helped! I feel so proud.
No way to overcome the BIG row-6 problem! I did it and undid it so many times I cannot even remember! I followed the pattern instructions and your final extended explanation, but I still have 2 and not 3 stitches at the end of the row.
I’m quite stubborn and don’t want to give up and I’m currently solving the problem by making another increase before the final 2 stitches. But I REALLY would like to know where the ‘trick’ is! Thank you
Hi Barbara!
Thank you for your question! I’m so sorry Row 6 has been difficult, and I commend your efforts to get it right. Row 6 is when the first stripe of yarn over “moons” ends and the next stripe of yarn over “moons” begins, so this row will naturally feel a bit different than the previous five rows. I suggest making sure your rows leading up to row 6 are all correct. Another way to do this would be to knit a small swatch of 22 or 28 stitches or so, to do a small-scale study of how you’re getting to 2 stitches left and not 3 at the end of row 6.
I hope this helps, but please feel free to reach out to us at [email protected] if you would like to share a photo of your work so we can better understand what’s going on!
All the best,
Margaret
Thks Margaret but….I finallly discovered where the ‘bug’ is! It’s the row 5 the problem, beacause I did not make the YO before the last 8 stitches! All the focus was on those last stitches and to row 6, which I knittted always right….I feel MUCH better! Aaaaahhh Thank you all
You are very welcome, Barbara! I am so glad you were able to find the sticking point, and that you can continue on with your wrap now!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi! I am having trouble ending up with the correct number of stitches at the end of several rows. Can you please confirm how many stitches total we should have at the end of each finished row? I can’t figure out where my mistake is! Thank you!
Hi Lindsey!
Thank you for your question! Since each increase in this wrap has a decrease to go with it, the number of stitches should stay the same throughout the pattern. I suggest double checking your stitch counts at the end of each row like you mentioned (instead of in the middle of each row) so that all decreases and increases can be accounted for when you count. If you cast on 100 stitches, there should be 100 stitches after each row!
I hope this helps you get your wrap back on track, and please feel free to reach out to us with a photo of your wrap at [email protected] if you would like some extra help!
All the best,
Margaret
Can you help me with directions to knit this in the round?
Thank you so much!
Hi Dj,
Thanks for reaching out! The ease of converting a pattern to knitting in the round can vary greatly depending on the difficulty of the stitch pattern, and in a pattern like this one that includes increases, decreases, and yarn overs on the wrong side, it becomes much more difficult. So unfortunately, we don’t have instructions for knitting this pattern in the round, but I will certainly pass your request along to the design team!
All the best,
Lili