Toe-Up Socks
Beautifully constructed and brilliantly adaptable, these Toe-Up Socks are a revival of the original pair, which was first released in More Last Minute Knitted Gifts, by Purl Soho co-owner Joelle Hoverson. Now sadly out of print, that classic book is full of little gems, like these socks, that we’re hoping to save from the sands of time!
These socks are a quintessential toe-up construction. You cast on and increase at the toe, then, in order, you work the foot; increase for the gusset; turn the heel; create the heel flap with nice cushion-y slip stitches; and the homestretch… work the leg to the top edge.
The pattern includes instructions for working your socks in a simple 2×2 rib, or in delicate corkscrew columns of twisted rib. The twisted rib involves an easy right twist, which you can pick up in no time with our new video tutorial.
We knit up this version of our Toe-Up Socks in Posy, our hand-dyed superwash merino, cashmere, and nylon blend. Equal parts soft and lovely, durable and practical, Posy comes in a gorgeous range of colors, and you’ll need one or two skeins for a pair… but don’t be surprised if you end up making a whole rainbow of socks!
Designed by Purl Soho founder and co-owner, Joelle Hoverson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoToeUpSocks, and #PurlSohoPosy. We can’t wait to see what you make!
MATERIALS
- 2 (3, 3, 4) skeins of Purl Soho’s Posy, 75% superwash merino, 15% cashmere, and 10% nylon. Each skein is approximately 159 yards/ 50 grams. (NOTE: We no longer offer Posy, but choose from one of our other fingering weight yarns.)
- For 2×2 Rib version: Approximately 295 (355, 400, 490) yards required. We used the color Mourning Dove.
- For Twisted Rib version: Approximately 305 (365, 410, 500) yards required. We used the color Heirloom White.
- A set of US 1 (2.5 mm) double pointed needles
- Stitch marker
- A Toe-Up Socks Pattern NOTE: The only substantive differences between this pattern and the one in More Last Minute Knitted Gifts are the yarn (but not the gauge) and the addition of a smaller size for the 2×2 Rib version and a larger size for the Twisted Rib version.
GAUGE
34 stitches and 40 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
SIZES
Adult 7 (8, 9, 10)
Foot Circumference: 7 (8, 9, 10) inches. NOTE: Choose a size that is approximately 1–2 inches smaller than the circumference of the wearer’s foot.
Foot Length: Adjustable
PATTERN
The Toe-Up Socks Pattern is available for purchase as a PDF download only.
Great pattern. Last Minute knitted gifts and More Last Minute Gifts is available in my Public Library. Let’s hear it for public libraries! I find myself checking out the books every year or so.
@Sandy,
As a public library user, I’m so pleased to reply to a fellow proponent! I’m an ex-A***** customer, a used-books-only buyer, and a recent Library convert.
Purl Soho is always my first stop for free patterns, clear tutorials, and the most beautiful yarns – all in one place.
Thank you Sandy, and thank you Purl Soho!
Sally
Where on the foot to measure circumference? Around the ball of the foot? Around the arch area?
Hi Joellen,
Thanks for reaching out! This measurement should be taken around the widest part of the ball of your foot.
Best,
Julianna
Hello,
I just purchased the Toe Up socks pattern which includes a link to your tutorial for Provionsal Cast On.
..the tutorial shows to cast on the stitches, and then cut the yarn after several crochet chains.
The pattern says to split the stitches between 3 needles….okay, but do I attach the yarn again to start the increases?
Or do I not cut the yarn, as it shows in the tutorial ?
I’m finding the instructions somewhat confusing.
Hello Michele,
Thank you for reaching out! When you are using the provisional cast on technique, the cast on is made with scrap yarn. This means that you will cast on the amount of stitches that are needed, make a few extra chains, and then cut your yarn. After you have completed your cast on you can distribute your stitches and begin working in the round with your yarn.
I hope this clears things up and let us know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Can these socks be knitted using Judy’s Magic Cast on? I’m teaching myself magic loop / two at a time socks technique.
Hello Deborah,
Thank you for reaching out! You can certainly use Judy’s Magic cast on for these socks.
Happy sock knitting!
-Marilla
Perhaps I’m missing something, but when starting the foot stitches, where do I find the directions for row 4 of the twisted rib version for the size 6 women’s shoe? There are instructions for row 4 for sizes 7,8,9 & 10.
Thanks!
-Sue
Hi Sue,
Thanks for reaching out! This sock comes in sizes 7, 8, 9 and 10 only, which actually refer to the circumference of the sock, not the shoe size. The shoe sizes listed above this step are provided as general guidelines for the length of the foot of the sock, but to determine which size to cast on, you should measure the circumference of your foot and choose a size that is 1 to 2 inches smaller than your foot circumference.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi, I have purchased this pattern, am having difficulty with the heel section, have ripped it out a few times, so I have a few questions.
1. My pattern has some of the pages numbered, it seems to go from page 3 to page 5. Is there a page 4?
2. For the “Turn heel” section, there are some yo’s before the wrap-t. When I k/p these on the following row, would I k/p through the back loops similarly to the directions for the toe and gusset sections?- there are holes otherwise
Thanks!
Hello Susan,
Thank you for reaching out! I checked the pattern and it looks like the pages are indeed labeled incorrectly- thank you for catching this! For the turn heal section you are absolutely correct, you will be knitting all yarn overs through the back loop to close the hole.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thanks Marilla, for your answers, now I have another question,
For the Heel flap, I have done the 2 set up rows, and now I am on row 1: there are an odd number of stitches to do until the ssk, if I do the “*slip one knit one” until the last stitch before the gap, it turns out to be a slip one before the ssk, not a knit 1, is that ok? or am I missing something and it should be a k1 before the ssk.
Thanks again
Hello Susan,
Thank you for your patients with my response to your question! You are absolutely correct- you are not missing anything. The wording is a bit confusing, but you will end with a slip before doing your ssk.
I hope this didn’t delay your project and happy knitting!
Warmly,
Marilla
Hi, In the Turn Heel section, the number of stitches don’t seem to add up. I am making the smallest size, so I have 24 stitches on needles b and c. If I do short rows 1-4 and repeat rows 3 and 4 twice, wouldn’t I end up with 32 stitches on those needles? If I should end up with 28 stitches on each, it seems like I would just do rows 1-4 once, with no repeats. Am I missing something? Thank you for your help!
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for reaching out! When you are working these short rows, you will be adding just one stitch total at the end of each short row, not one stitch per needle, so after working Short Rows 1 through 4 and repeating Rows 3 and 4 twice, you will have added 8 stitches total, or 4 stitches each on needles B and C.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
What am I doing wrong?? I am beginning the twisted rib pattern. 34 stitches on needle A. Following the directions I end row 4 with 2 TRs with 2 purls in between.
In your photo it appears that each TR has 2 (p2,k2)s in between. Am I not understanding the directions?? HELP
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you are knitting Size 8, but you might be following the “Size 7 and 10 Only” instructions for setting up the twisted rib pattern on needle A. If you follow the next set of instructions instead, under “Size 8 Only,” the stitch multiple should work out! Also, make sure that you are repeating each bracketed [k2, p2] twice within the larger repeat so that there are enough stitches between the twisted rib columns.
I hope that clears everything up!
Julianna
Silly me! Thank you so much
I seem to be stuck on the repeats for the short row section. When repeating rows 3 & 4 it says to knit to 4 sets before wrapped stitch. But on the last repeat the wrapped stitch is right there. I must’ve done something wrong.
Thank you,
Julie
Hi Julie,
Thanks for reaching out! It actually sounds like you are doing everything right. On the final repeat, depending on which size you are doing, it is normal for you to immediately be four stitches before the previous wrap and turn when you begin the final short rows! As long as you end up with the correct number of stitches on each needle, you can continue on to the heel flap!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi, I would like to use either Line Weight or Sweetgrass for this pattern. Do you think the pattern would work with these yarns as well and if so which needle size would you recommend?
Many thanks in advance!
Hanna
Hi Hanna,
Thanks for reaching out! Both our Line Weight and Sweetgrass are fingering weight yarns like Posy so either could be lovely for this pattern! I would recommend sticking to the same needle size the patterns calls for (a US 1) but definitely do a gauge swatch to make sure it is consistent with the pattern and then you can adjusted needle size from there is necessary!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi,
This is my first time knitting toe up socks. I can’t find a bind-off for the 2 x 2 ribbing that is as simple in appearance as the socks in the photo and also stretchy. Please recommend a method with an instruction link.
Hi Melinda,
Thanks for reaching out! For the sample socks for this pattern we used a Basic Bind Off method and bound off in the 2×2 rib pattern. To do this you Knit 2 stitches, slip first stitch over and off needle, purl 1, slip 1st stitch over and off needles, purl 1, slip 1st stitch over and off needles, knit 1, slip 1st stitch over and off needles, knit 1, slip 1st stitch over and off needles and so on and so forth!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I think there might be a small error in the turn heel section. In row 2, the instructions say:
“Short Row 2 (wrong side): P14 (18, 20, 24), yo, p1, wrp-t. [1 stitch increased]”,
but I believe this doesn’t account for the yo and k1 in the previous row. The result is a heel thats a little off center. Should the number of stitches you purl not be 16(20,22,26), to put your yo at the same distance from the center as it is on needle C?
Hi Lillian,
Thanks you for reaching out! You are absolutely correct, thank you so much for bringing this to our attention! We will get that fixed in the pattern right away!
Warmly,
Gianna
The last row(Next Row after repeating Rows 1 and 2 several times)of HEEL FLAP is a purl row.
The row before it is a purl row also. Is this correct? Seems it should be a knit row.
Its difficult to see in the photos.
Thank you
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, that is correct! You will be *Slip 1, p1, repeat from * to end of Needle C, this will set you up to resumer the established pattern for the leg in the round!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
What yarn do you recommend? I have some posy, love it but not in the colors I would like. The colors available in posy are very limited. What alternate yarn do you suggest?
Hi Mary Beth,
Thanks for reaching out! We’re currently in the process of transitioning our full size Posy and Pocket Posy skeins into 50g skeins this year. We’re hoping to launch this new size around mid-spring but in the meantime we’re having a clearance sale for any remaining colors! For a superwash alternative I would suggest MADELINETOSH
Tosh Merino Light and for another sock alternative (it isn’t a superwash) but I would recommend KOIGU WOOL DESIGNS Koigu KPPPM + KPM
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello, Love Purl Soho!
I’m a new knitter and am confused by the heel flap instructions. What is the gap? Is it the space between each needle or just the space between A and B then A and C? Or something altogether different? Thank You
Hi Joanne,
Thanks for reaching out! The gap will be on either side of the “Heel Flap” at the end of needle B and C!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any other questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Thanks Gianna!
Hello – new to knitting socks and sizing #s seem to differ a bit, so would like to clarify: for this pattern, if my foot circumference is 10″, then I knit the size 10?? Or the size 8? (On the pattern itself, it is noted as extra large – 10 – or medium – 8.) I am confused by this wording: “NOTE: Choose a size that is approximately 1–2 inches smaller than the circumference of the wearer’s foot.”
Appreciate the help!
Hi Chris,
Thanks for reaching out! Since your foot circumference is 10 inches, then I’d recommend choosing either the size 8 or the size 9. Socks are meant to fit with negative ease (so that they fit snugly and don’t slide around on your feet), which is why we recommend choosing a size that’s smaller than your foot circumference. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I noticed a little typo in the WORK HEEL FLAP section that you might want to correct to avoid confusion: it says “15 (19, 17, 21) stitches on each needle…” instead of “15 (17, 19, 21)…” at the end. (it took me several recounting of my stitches as I was looking at the middle digit in all parentheses only :)..
Thanks a lot for all your amazing projects, tutorials, and yarn, of course!
Hi Yuliya,
Our design team just had a chance to take a look over this pattern, and they confirmed that the stitch counts are correct as written, even though the numbers might look strange! The heel flap for the smaller size is actually a bit wider than the larger size. This has to do with maintaining a multiple of 12 stitch count when you resume knitting in the round. I hope this helps clear things up!
All the best,
Lili
Ahh, I see, the 12-stitch multiple is necessary for the twisted rib version, and your design team attempted to make it universal for both versions! I didn’t realize because I was knitting 2×2 rib version, large size, and the original 19 (76 total) worked perfectly for this version, as it requires only 4-stitch multiple.