Paint Pail Pullover
Named for the suggestion that it has been dipped in a great, big pot of paint, our year-round Paint Pail Pullover appeals to our love of color and color blocking (not to mention our affinity for alliteration)!
Knit from the bottom up, it all begins with our favorite soft rolled hem and makes its way up to a raglan yoke and saddle shoulder. The beauty lies not only in the finished sweater but in the little amount of finishing work you need to finish it!
Stitched up in our Linen Quill, a mix of fine highland wool, alpaca, and linen, the Paint Pail Pullover is lightweight and comfortable with a raw and natural beauty. And with over 30 gorgeous colors to play with, try surprising pairings that push you beyond your color comfort zone!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Adam Aronowitz.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoPaintPailPullover, and #PurlSohoLinenQuill. We can’t wait to see what you make!
MATERIALS
- Color A: 2 (2, 3, 3) (3, 4, 4) (4, 4, 5) skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. Each skein is 439 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 760 (880, 990, 1115) (1230, 1365, 1490) (1575, 1730, 1810) yards required.
- Color B: 1 (1, 1, 1) (1, 1, 1) (2, 2, 2) skein(s) of Linen Quill; approximately 280 (300, 325, 355) (375, 400, 425) (445, 460, 485) yards required.
We used (shown above)…
- Top Row: Dark Iris (Color A) and Wheat Flour (Color B)
- Bottom Row: Pale Oats (Color A) and Kettle Black (Color B)
You’ll also need…
- US 3 (3.25 mm), 32-inch circular needles
- US 3, 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 3 double pointed needles
- Stitch markers
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- Please Note: The Paint Pail Pullover Pattern is no longer available for purchase. For assistance, please contact us at customerservice@purlsoho.com.
GAUGE
26 stitches and 33 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch.
SIZES
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
33 (36½, 40¼, 44) (47¾, 51½, 55) (58¾, 62½, 66¼)
To fit actual chest circumference of 28–31 (31–34, 35–38, 39–42, 43–46, 46–49, 50–53, 54–57, 57–60, 61–64) inches, with approximately 2–5 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 33 (36½, 40¼, 44) (47¾, 51½, 55) (58¾, 62½, 66¼) inches
- Finished Body Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge (unrolled): 16 (16¼, 16½, 16½) (16¾, 17, 17¼) (17½, 17½, 17¾) inches
- Finished Sleeve Length from Underarm to Cuff (unrolled): 18 (18½, 18½, 19) (19, 19, 19½) (19½, 20, 20) inches
SAMPLE: The sweater pictured here is size 36½ inches with 4 inches of ease.
PATTERN
Hi
I love this sweater can you tell me what saddle shoulder is and is it hard to knit.Thank you….Liz
Hi Liz,
Thanks for reaching out! A saddle shoulder is a variation of a raglan shoulder that has a bit more tailored fit than a traditional raglan and provides some visual interest – if you look at the pictures of our Paint Pail Pullover, you will see a horizontal “seam” across each shoulder that is created by shaping of the saddle shoulder. While it is slightly more involved to knit than a traditional raglan, our pattern includes very clear instructions and we are always here to help if you have any questions!
Best,
Julianna
Hi Julianna
Thank you I am going to try and do this as I love the pattern
Best Liz
This sweater looks really nice ! Any chance you could recommend a cotton, linen or plant fiber version ? Or even a cattail silk version ? I look forward to hearing from you !
Best regards,
Natalie
Hi Natalie,
Thank you so much for the kind words! I think Cattail Silk would be an excellent option for this sweater, as would Field Linen! I would definitely recommend blocking your gauge swatch as these fibers will behave differently from Linen Quill, but they should turn out equally lovely for the Paint Pail Pullover!
Best of luck and please let us know how it goes!
Julianna
What would you say the skill level is for this sweater?
Hi Karly,
Thanks for writing in! I would consider this an advanced beginner to intermediate project – the vast majority of the sweater is very simple knitting in the round. It does get a bit more complicated when working the shaping for the shoulders and neckline and includes short rows, but we have explained everything thoroughly in the pattern and include links to our video tutorials for several techniques. I encourage you to give it a try, and we are always here to help if you run into any problems!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Elegant in its simplicity
Stunning and simple sweater! I’ve already ordered the yarn in Peony Pink and Wheat Flour and can’t wait to cast on. Thank you Purl SoHo for the most lovely patterns and yarns.
Hi! Loving this! A quick question about linen quill – is it soft for wearing next to the skin? Would this work in a merino, and if so would you have recommendation of which might be good? Thanks 🙂
Hi Sophie,
Thanks for writing in and for the kind words! Due to the 35% alpaca, Linen Quill is quite soft to the touch. While not as soft as our merino yarns, Linen Quill does soften up quite a bit after washing and wearing a few times. I have a sweater out of Linen Quill that only gets softer each time I wash it and is one of my favorites!
If you would prefer a merino or similar fiber, I would consider Woolfolk Tynd, Manos del Uruguay Fino, or Anzula Squishy as possible alternatives.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello
I would like to knit this in one colour the 4th size would
I still need 4 hanks of yarn thank you…Liz
Hi Liz,
Thanks for reaching out! This sweater does use a significant portion of the skein of contrast color for all sizes, so I would recommend purchasing 4 skeins for the fourth size. If you find that you do not end up using the fourth skein, any unwound yarn can be returned for store credit.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Thank you Julianna you have been so helpful….
can I buy the pattern and yarn together in one order?
Hello Annette,
Thank you for reaching out! This project does not come in bundle form, but you can certainly purchase it all in one order. You can find the pattern here: https://www.purlsoho.com/paint-pail-pullover-pattern.html and the yarn (Linen Quill) here: https://www.purlsoho.com/linen-quill.html
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello,
I am currently making the nature’s palette blanket (7 inches down, 53 to go!), and am obsessed with linen quill, and the seed stitch of the blanket.
Would this sweater work with larger needles (7) and double skeins and seed stitch?
Or would it be too bulky?
If it wouldn’t be the best match, could you recommend a sweater pattern i might use with seed stitch, double strands and 7 needles?
Many thanks,
Karyn
Hello Karyn,
Thank you for reaching out- i’m thrilled to hear how much you are loving this blanket! This sweater works much better with one strand of Linen Quill and would have to be drastically re-design if you were to hold it double and change the stitch. I think that Julie Hoover’s Addison would actually work perfectly for this idea.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
What is the knitting experience level required for this pullover?
Hi Leanne,
Thanks for writing in! I would consider this an advanced beginner to intermediate project – the vast majority of the sweater is very simple knitting in the round. It does get a bit more complicated when working the shaping for the shoulders and neckline and includes short rows, but we have explained everything thoroughly in the pattern and include links to our video tutorials for several techniques. I encourage you to give it a try, and we are always here to help if you run into any problems!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi, I need help! First, I’m at the back neck part, “knit to last 9 stitches, wrp-t. When you say last, you mean the end, at the front of the sweater or to the marker at the end of the back part? Second, when working the neckband, I’m to knit 136 stitches, but I ended with 91 stitches at the Back neck part. The difference is 45 stitches which is more than the front part that I cast off earlier. What am I missing? Thank you!
Hi Emmi,
Thanks for reaching out! When working the short rows at the back neck, this does mean to knit all the way to the last 9 stitches of the round before working the first wrap and turn. Although the total number of stitches you cast off, including the front neck that was cast off previously, does not add up to 136, you will also be picking up stitches along the decreases you worked after casting off the front neck, which should give you plenty of room to pick up the correct number of stitches.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hello,
I have 3 skeins of Linen Quill in Lavendar Opal sitting at home, and I would like to try knitting this sweater with them. Could you please suggest a contrast color to pair with Lavender Opal? Also, I think of myself as an advanced beginner and this would be my first pullover sweater. Is it something I can reasonably tackle?
Thank you
Hi Kristin,
Thanks for writing in! I would consider this an advanced beginner to intermediate project – the vast majority of the sweater is very simple knitting in the round. It does get a bit more complicated when working the shaping for the shoulders and neckline and includes short rows, but we have explained everything thoroughly in the pattern and include links to our video tutorials for several techniques. Every knitter is different, but I do think the Paint Pail Pullover is a good jumping off point for a first sweater!
As far as color choices go, I think you have quite a few options that would go well with Lavendar Opal! You could pair it with Heirloom White for a springy pastel sweater, go low-contrast with Peach Stone or Purple Smoke for a monochrome look, or create a striking contrast with a darker color, like Trout Brown. Almost any combination will turn out just lovely, depending on the look you are going for!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi, I am curious about colors.
I am wanting to make this sweater with Juniper Green as the main colour (colour A), but I am curious what colours would accent it well. I was thinking Oatmeal Gray, but do you have any other suggestions?
Thank you so much, I appreciate your help. I don’t live in NY, so am unable to come in for myself..
Thanks, Kara
Hi Kara,
Thanks for reaching out! Juniper Green would look fantastic with Oatmeal Gray! However, since Oatmeal Gray is out of stock, I think either Twig Brown or Kettle Black would also look just lovely if you don’t mind a darker accent color.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Is this sweater knit all in one piece or is seaming required? Thank you.
Hi Debbie,
Thanks for reaching out! This is a seamless sweater knit in the round – the only finishing required will be to close up the armpits using kitchener stitch.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Will this pattern work using Alpaca wool only?
Hi Nadia,
Thanks for reaching out! As long as you are using a fingering weight yarn that knits up to the same gauge as Linen Quill, yes, I think this sweater would be lovely in 100% alpaca!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi Purl Soho team,
I am knitting this sweater but am stuck on the neckline shaping. How do I purl on the wrong side for Row 1 on page 5? When I turn the sweater to purl on the wrong side, the working yarn is on the left needle. I feel stupid asking because it should be so simple… Thanks in advance, Louise
Hi Louise,
Thanks for reaching out! At this point, after binding off stitches for the front of the neck, you will be working back and forth in rows, rather than in the round, so it is correct that your yarn will be attached to the left hand needle when you turn to purl. Just insert your right hand needle into the first stitch as if to purl, pick up your yarn with whichever hand you usually use to knit, and start purling!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi there,
I love your website and store! I have a chunky baby alpaca, which works with a size 10 needle – do you think I could use one of the smaller sizes and still follow the pattern? Or do you have another sweater in a similar style that you would recommend for that yarn? I really like the color blocking on this.
Thank you!
Hi Cassandra,
Thanks for writing in! Because there is such a big difference between a fingering weight and bulky weight yarn, I would not recommend using this pattern for your yarn. Not only would you have to do a lot of math to see if even the smallest size would turn out correctly, drastic differences in gauge like this can result in some strange things happening in areas like yoke and shoulder shaping. We unfortunately don’t have any sweater patterns that match your yarn, but you could certainly mimic this color blocking in any simple bulky weight pullover that you like!
Best,
Julianna
Will German short rows work well in place of wrap and turn in row shaping on this sweater? My understanding is that while they can usually be substituted, they may not work as well with some patterns.
Hi Pam,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, German Short Rows will be just fine for this pattern. The only time German Short Rows don’t work well is when a pattern has you stack multiple wrap and turns on the same stitch, but you won’t be doing that here. You will have to modify the pattern slightly in order to substitute them, however. On each short row, when you get to the wrap and turn, you will knit or purl one more stitch, and then turn and work a double stitch. You can find more information on how to substitute German Short Rows in our tutorial!
Best,
Julianna
Page 6 says repeat rows 1 and2 another 18 times that would be 36 rows to many I think. Should be row1 and 2 total of 18 rows
Hi Irene,
Thanks for reaching out! It is correct to repeat rows 1 and 2 18 more times for a total of 36 rows. Before beginning these decreases, you should have 170 stitches for the smallest size, and each row decreases one stitch, so you will have the correct number of stitches after repeating rows 1 and 2 18 more times.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I noticed different size choices between your version of Paint Paul sweater and Ravelry. Also different yarn requirements. Has the pattern been upgraded to include more sizes? Does the hard copy include the larger sizes?
Hi Dina,
Thanks for writing in, and I apologize for the confusion! This sweater has indeed been updated to include 10 sizes and fit up to a 63-inch chest, as you can see on Ravelry. We’re experiencing a few technical difficulties with our website at the moment, but we’re working on getting that information restored here. I’m afraid we no longer offer a hard copy of this pattern, but you can be sure that your downloaded PDF will be the most current version!
All the best,
Julianna
Hi there,
I’m about to shape the neckline and sleeves and just discovered I have the wrong amount of stitches on my needles. I currently have the correct number of Front stitches (79) but I have 88 for the Back. And rather than 38 stitches for each sleeve, I have 47. Is there anything I can do to keep moving forward? Thanks!
Hi Jenn,
Thanks so much for reaching out! We are going to do some research into this issue and we will get back to you as soon as possible!
Best,
Gianna
Hi Jenn,
I just wanted to follow up! We have reviewed the pattern and it appears you may have missed a few of the decrease rows along the way. Unfortunately we believe it would be best to rip out the yoke sections and take it back to where the sleeves and body are joined. Make sure that before joining the sleeves to the body that there are 66 stitches for each sleeve on hold and 97 stitches each for the front and back (326 total) and that you have placed the stitch marker in the correct locations on either end of the 66 stitches to indicate the beginning and end of the round. In the Shape Armholes section you should be decreasing 8 stitches per decrease row, one on either side of each of the four markers, or two each in the front, back, and sleeves.
I would also recommend either writing down all the decrease and plain rows on paper and then check them off as you go. Or you could also use removable stitch markers like Colored Opening Stitch Markers or Locking Stitch Markers and place them in the fabric every time you works a new decrease row or even every time you works a decrease so you can visually track and verify when you have completed the decreases.
I hope this informations helps! Happy knitting!
Gianna
Thank you so much for the help!
Just starting but wondering what is the best cast-on stitch to use for the bottom of this sweater.
Hi Debra,
Thanks for reaching out! A basic Long Tail Cast On is great for this pattern!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello Gianna
I am knitting size 36 1/2 and reached the shape sleeves, dec. rnd. 2. It says to repeat dec. rnd. every other rnd. 5 more times which will leave only 26 st on each sleeve. In order to have 38 st on each sleeve I need to repeat dec. rnd. every other rnd. 2 more times.
Hi Dafna,
Thanks for reaching out. On Decrease Round 2 in this section of the pattern, you’ll decrease by 4 stitches across both sleeves! This means that after a decrease round, each sleeve will only have 2 fewer stitches, not 4. Since each sleeve begins with 50 stitches, and you decrease by 2 on each of the 6 times you work the decrease round, then each sleeve will end up with 38 stitches after this section! Hope this helps clarify things.
All the best,
Lili
You are the best. Thanks
I am unsure about the Shape Neckline and sleeve section. I am making the smallest size. After knitting 25 stitches (which will be on my first sleeve section) the bind off 29 will encompass part of my sleeve and part of my right front. m I reading this wrong?
I now realize I have beginning my rows with the first sleeve, instead of the right front. How can I correct this problem? I am up to row to bind off for the neckline. My bad!
Hi Ilene,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m glad to hear that you’ve figured out what went wrong! I would recommend unknitting what you’ve done so far until you are back at the correct beginning of round/row. Then, start this row once again, and the stitches should line up in the correct spots in the pullover. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks Lili,
Your advice worked perfectly. I am now up to the final step of working the neckband. Instructions say to pick up 136 stitches. I am trying to decide how many stitches to pick up from each section around the neck. Is there a good formula?
Hi Ilene,
I’m glad to hear that! Whenever the stockinette is facing in the same direction as the stitches you’re picking up, then you can pick up 1 stitch in each stitch. This will total to 120 stitches for the size you’re making. Then you can distribute the final 16 stitches along the decreases you worked after casting off the front neck–so 8 for each side!
All the best,
Lili
Could you offer a dress version of this pattern? Or perhaps tell me how I could make it into one? Thanks!
Hi Cynthia,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately, we don’t have the resources to convert this pattern into a dress, but thank you for expressing your interest! I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team.
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Two questions on this pattern-how would I “set the dye” if I find that my darker color is staining the lighter, and can I use the two at a time method with a magic loop for the sleeves?
Hi Maureen,
Thanks for reaching out to us! When using highly contrasting colors together in a project, it’s best to individually wash the skeins and re-fix the dye before casting on the project. Generally, re-fixing dye using vinegar and water only works on plant fibers, but we find that using this same solution of water and vinegar helps to draw out the excess dye from yarn with animal fibers like Linen Quill. We have a tutorial here all about the process of re-fixing dyes!
As for your second question, the sleeves of your Paint Pail Pullover can absolutely be knit two at a time using the magic loop method! Here’s our tutorial!
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Carly
Hi, I am almost done with this lovely raglan. I love the yarn and the shape of the sweater. I ma now trying to pick up stitches on the neckline to finish the last 4 row of knitting. My question: Do you pick up the stitches from the inside of the sweater or the outside? I did it from the inside and now have a seam on the outside at the collar, but when i was picking up from the outside i had a seam that would have seemed a lot more visible once it was done. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
Hi Aila,
Thanks for reaching out. When picking up stitches for the neckband, the seam should fall on the inside of the sweater! Since the neckline is short, it might curl around making the seam visible at first, but this should be minimized once you block the sweater (and also once you’re wearing it). If you’re still seeing the seam on the right side of the fabric after this, feel free to send us a photo at customerservice@purlsoho.com. We can troubleshoot further from there!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you
Hello! I am starting the Shape Neckline+Sleeves section and wanted to know if there is a preferred technique to bind off stitches for the front Neckline.
Thanks!
Nancy
Hi Nancy,
You can use a standard bind-off for the front Neckline!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili
I finished the sweater! The fit is good but the neckline is rolled along the saddle sleeves but not along the front or back due to my stitch distribution (did not reduce stitches along the saddles). Can I hand stitch to create the roll in the front and back?
Thanks, Nancy
Hi Nancy,
Congrats on finishing your project! I’m sorry to hear that the neckline didn’t quite turn out as expected, but I think your idea to hand stitch the other sections in place should work very nicely. Let us know how it turns out if you try this!
All the best,
Lili