Classic Crewneck Cardigan
Throw it on with a T-shirt and jeans, let it hang from your shoulders over your party dress, or slide it on once the airplane hits cruising altitude. Our Classic Crewneck Cardigan is an everyday, everywhere chameleon!
A bit of an unusual construction with in-the-round set-in sleeves, this timeless beauty is knit from the bottom up and features a pretty short-row-shaped neckline and a handsome button placket. The shoulders are shaped with short rows and joined together with a simple three-needle bind-off. With some surprising details along the way, this knit will tickle the maker’s brain!
Our Classic Crewneck Cardigan knits up equally well in either our Cotton Pure, 100% organically grown cotton, or our Season Alpaca, 100% super baby alpaca. At 6 stitches to the inch, both yarns have a beautiful drape without being bulky. Make a sweater in each for year-round sweater options!
You also get to choose between edgings: a ribbed edge (shown above in Season Alpaca’s Dove Gray) or a rolled edge (shown below in Cotton Pure’s Birch Bark). Either yarn, either edging, the Classic Crewneck Cardigan is eternal, a beauty that will last forever!
Update: New Colors + Sizes
July 26, 2021
A Classic Crewneck Cardigan would not be so classic in a yarn that doesn’t stand the test of time. We chose two that do. One option is is our gorgeous Season Alpaca, knit up here in True Turquoise. One hundred percent super baby alpaca, it is incredibly soft and cozy with a lovely drape and a lasting beauty. Choice number two our super lovely Cotton Pure, shown above in the color Warm Rock. Either way, our Classic Crewneck Cardigan Pattern is now freshly restyled with a shorter overall length and lots more sizes, more classic than ever for more bodies than ever!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Adam Aronowitz.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoClassicCrewneckCardigan, #PurlSohoCottonPure, and #PurlSohoSeasonAlpaca. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
Choose from two different Purl Soho yarns. Each works perfectly for this pattern!
- 5 (5, 5, 6) (6, 6, 7, 7) (7, 8, 8, 8) skeins of Purl Soho’s Cotton Pure, 100% organically grown cotton. Each skein is 279 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 1225 (1290, 1390, 1455) (1560, 1660, 1735, 1830) (1950, 2075, 2145, 2215) yards required. We used Birch Bark.
Or
- 7 (7, 8, 8) (9, 9, 10, 10) (11, 11, 12, 12) skeins of Purl Soho’s Season Alpaca, 100% super baby alpaca. Each skein is 218 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 1225 (1290, 1390, 1455) (1560, 1660, 1735, 1830) (1950, 2075, 2145, 2215) yards required. We used Dove Gray.
You’ll also need…
- US 3 (3.25mm), 24-inch circular needles
- US 5 (3.75mm), 32-inch circular needles
- US 5, 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 3 double pointed needles
- A set of US 5 double pointed needles
- 5 stitch markers
- 8 stitch holders
- 8 (8, 8, 8) (8, 9, 9, 9) (9, 9, 9, 9) ½-inch buttons for rolled edge version, or 9 buttons for ribbed edge version. We used Purl Soho’s Mussel Shell Buttons.
- A Classic Crewneck Cardigan Pattern
NOTE: Looking to knit your sleeves in double-time? Swap the double pointed needles for 32-inch or longer circular needles, and check out our Magic Loop: Two At A Time Tutorial!
Gauge
24 stitches and 36 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, using larger needles
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
34¾ (36¾, 38¾, 40¾) (42¾, 44¾, 46¾, 48¾) (52¾, 56¾, 60¾, 64¾)
To fit actual chest circumference 31–32 (33– 34, 35–36, 37–38) (39–40, 41–42, 43–44, 45–46) (49–50, 53–54, 57–58, 61–62), with approximately 3–4 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference (buttoned): 34¾ (36¾, 38¾, 40¾) (42¾, 44¾, 46¾, 48¾) (52¾, 56¾, 60¾, 64¾) inches
- Finished Length From Shoulder To Bottom Edge: 21 (21, 22, 22) (23¼, 23¼, 24¼, 24½) (24½, 24¾, 24¾, 24¾) inches
- Finished Length From Underarm To Bottom Edge: 13¼ (13, 13¾, 13½) (14¼, 14, 14¾, 14¾) (14¼, 14¼, 13¾, 13½) inches
- Finished Length From Underarm To Cuff: 17½ (17½, 18, 18) (18, 18½, 18½, 18½) (19, 19, 19, 19) inches
SAMPLE: The sweaters pictured here are size 38¾.
Pattern
The Classic Crewneck Cardigan Pattern is available for purchase as either a PDF download.
The perfect cardigan…Love, Love, Love!
Beautiful! I can’t wait to knit this!
there seems to be multiple discrepancies in the sizing area… sometimes there is a range of 7 measurements and sometimes 8. time for some tech editing! hopefully, it’s right in your print edition?
Hi!
Thank you so much for letting us know! All of the measurements are present and correct on the print version and we have corrected the missing information above! We very much appreciate you reaching out!
Best,
Cassy
Love it! Perfect all season sweater!
Thank you so much for this pattern! I had purchased the materials and pattern to make the top down turtleneck cardigan with the intention of modifying it to be like this. I was going to make it in cotton pure, so now I have the materials to make this! I can’t wait to cast on!
Hi there,
I was just wondering what the skill level of this pattern is?
Thanks
Hi Nicole,
Thanks for reaching out! According to the Craft and Yarn Council, the sweater would be classified as “Experienced,” as it uses short rows and a bit of an unusual construction with in-the-round set-in sleeves as well as a three-needle bind-off. Personally, if you are an adventurous intermediate knitter, I think that you should be good to go! If you are not familiar with short rows, I might check out our Short Row tutorial (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/short-rows/) to get comfortable with the technique and decide if you want to give this lovely cardigan a try!
Best,
Cassy
Hi!
I just started the cardigan and I am confused about the button holes. You describe a hole on added part, on placket. Don‘t I need another one on bodypart? At the end, folding the placket, I won‘t geht through the button, right?
Or do I close the cardigan just in hole on placket? In this case I need another 8 button to stich them on top.
I realy don‘t understand, could you help me please?
Hi!
Please excuse me! Everything ok. I have overlooked the second yo, k2tog. Sorry!
Just starting this lovely sweater with your cotton pure. I can see how the sweater will turn out with one doubt: the left placket (mentioned on page 11). On the repeated row 2, the purl side of the body, one slips three stitches (wyif) and then knits over those same stitches coming back on the right side, leaving an open, lacy ultimate three stitches on the left. Are these turned over into a button placket?
Thanks for your help!
Hi Jean,
Thanks for your question! The three slipped stitches will create a rolled, i-cord-like edge on the right front of the cardigan where the buttons will be sewn. When I do this edging, I like to pull my yarn a bit firmly when I begin purling after the slipped stitches, which helps those three slipped stitches roll in to the wrong side of the fabric. It is really neat to see how that one step creates a tidy edging, so I encourage you to try it out, either on a swatch or on the sweater if you are ready to dive in!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I have questions regarding the sleeves. It says K5, place previous 10 stitches on stich holder for Underarm [66 stitches].
What happens with those 66 stitches. Are they being held too?
Hi Katja,
The 66 stitches that are left over after placing the underarm stitches on a holder will remain on your knitting needles to be worked as the sleeve.
I hope this helps!
Carly
Do you think this cardigan would work in Mulberry Merino?
Hello Quynh,
Thank you for reaching out! Yes- Mulberry Merino should work beautifully for this project! I would still, as always, knit up a little gauge swatch before jumping in.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Could I knit this out of Good Wool?
Hi Lily,
Thanks for writing in! Our Good Wool is a bit thicker than either our Cotton Pure or Season Alpaca, so while you may be able to adjust your needle size to get the correct gauge, I think you would end up with a somewhat stiff and dense fabric, which might not be quite as comfortable to wear! If you would like to make a cardigan out of Good Wool, I think Olson would be a good option, or you could take a look at our Classic Hemmed Crewneck for a pullover option!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I bought this tempting pattern and just received my yarn. Question re: my gauge swatch. I get 24 sets = 4 inches, but 36 rows = 4.75 inches , BEFORE BLOCKING. is it safe for me to proceed? It’s not too convenient to machine wash and dry the swatch, but I do have it soaking in hot water now, to check possible shrinkage. My yarn is 100% cotton, DK weight but not from Purl Soho. I’ll be eagerly awaiting your advice.
Hi Pat,
Thanks for writing in! In general, stitch gauge is more important than row gauge – for most sweater patterns, including this one, many of the pattern sections have you knit to a specified length in inches rather than a certain number of rows, so as long as your stitch gauge is correct, your row gauge will be irrelevant for the most part. However, if you are planning on machine washing and drying your sweater, I would strongly recommend doing the same with your gauge swatch if at all possible – the dryer can make a big difference in gauge! If you can wait to cast on, it would be a good idea to put your swatch in with your next load of clothes just to be on the safe side.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Would this pattern work well with Cashmere Merino Bloom?
Hi Ashley,
Thanks for writing in! Cashmere Merino Bloom is just a little too heavy for this pattern – you may be able to adjust your needle size to get the correct gauge, but I think you would end up with a somewhat stiff and dense fabric, which might not be quite as comfortable to wear! If you are looking for another option besides Cotton Pure or Season Alpaca, this pattern would work well in Mulberry Merino, Anzula Cricket, or any other sport weight yarn.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I have made it to joining the sleeves with the body, but I simply do not understand the instructions! What do I do with the stitches on hold on both arm and body, in which order to I knit? It simply does not add up…
Hi Nanna,
Thanks for writing in! Fortunately we do have a video tutorial for this exact step, Joining Sleeves to Body! Please take a look and hopefully that clears everything up – if not let us know!
Best,
Julianna
I’ve been making the classic crew neck cardigan and when I added the sleeves to the body, the stitches look different, almost as if they’re twisted or slanted differently. I’ve knit 5 rows it’s the same result. I tried to find a way to and a photo and couldn’t figure it out. So frustrated! Any ideas?
Hi Ellen,
I’m so sorry to hear you are having difficulties with the pattern! You can always send a picture to customerservice@purlsoho.com and we’ll be happy to take a look!
Best,
Julianna
I have 6 lovely skeins of Cotton Pure. Do you think that I can omit the opening in the front and instead knit another back as I would prefer a jumper to a cardigan. I really like the details around the sleeves.
Thanks
Anna-Lena
Hi Anna-Lena,
Thanks for reaching out! You could certainly omit the button placket and work this sweater entirely in the round for a pullover option! You will have to make a few more adjustments when beginning the front neck shaping, but it should be fairly straightforward. Another pullover that would work well with the gauge of Cotton Pure would be our Classic Hemmed Crewneck.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello, I’ve just started knitting this beautiful Cardigan and I’m confused about the Buttonhole Row for Ribbing. The pattern says “K1, p1, k1, yarn over, k2tog, work in established pattern to end of row.” What is meant by “established pattern”? The pattern established in Rows 1 and 2? The next instruction reads “Repeat Row 1 and 2 until piece measures 3/4 inch…” So the next row after the Buttonhole Row would be a Row 2 as it’ll be the wrong side? Thank you!
Hello Olivia,
Thank you for reaching out- you are exactly right! The only extra thing you are doing is creating the button hole so outside of that you will continue as you were.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Great. Thank you! I’ve never done buttonholes before, so can’t quite picture it in my head yet.
Hi!
Do you think I would be able to adapt this pattern to knit it in garter stitch instead?
Thank you so much!
Hello Marie,
Thank you for this great question! The change in stitch will change your gauge so I the first thing you will need to do is knit up a gauge swatch to find out If you would need to change your needle size. I think that, as long as your gauge is on point, you could certainly knit this up in garter stitch. I say go for it!
Let us know how it goes and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I just worked my gauge sample and it is 5″x5″. I just wanted to be sure the gauge is supposed to be worked with the larger, size 5 needles, or if there is any chance there is an error in the pattern. I’m a pretty tight knitter so I was surprised to be that much off.
Hello Jenifer,
Thank you for reaching out! We did knit our gauge swatch on the US 5 needle. It sounds like if you go down one needle size you should be all set.
I hope this helps and happy swatching!
-Marilla
I just purchased this pattern. I am wondering why the placket extension is on the button hole side. That doesn’t seem to make sense to me. Should it be on the bottom band side?
Hi Robin,
Thanks for writing in! The button placket extension is added to give the buttonholes and front edge of the cardigan a bit of extra strength and structure. When you are finished with the cardigan, you will stitch down the placket to create a double layered sturdy button hole band. On the button side, the edge is finished with three slipped stitches to create a rolled edge without the bulk of a placket.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Beautiful classic cardigan.
Do you offer any patterns for a raglan sleeved cardigan?
Thank you
Hi Denise,
Thank you so much for your very kind words! We do have a raglan cardigan pattern! It can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/10/03/new-treeline-striped-cardigan/
Best,
Cassy
This was from several years ago 😉
I am still on the hunt for a classic crew neck cardigan with raglan sleeves.
Any new patterns?
Thank you
Hi Denise,
We actually just released a new cardigan with raglan sleeves! You can check it our right here.
All the best,
Lili
Hi, I love this cardigan but as I live in UK, can’t get the yarn. Would it be possible to knit this pattern by combining / holding two strands of lace weight yarn?
(4 ins =25 sts on US 5 needles with yarn double held)
Many thanks!
Heather
Hi Please ignore previous message re using different yarn. I’ve made a start but rather than changing the needle size (as the knitted fabric is already an open-ish weave) I’m knitting the next size up. Fingers crossed.
PS Just wanted to add – the pattern is lovely! Easy to follow and with really helpful backup so that even inexperienced knitters like me feel confident enough to have a go. Thank you!
Hi – I am at the point where I am joining the sleeves. Do I place a marker before and after each sleeve (so a total of 4 markers)? And then that is where I do my 4 decreases in the next right side round.
Thanks very much! Jenny
Hi Jenny,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you’ve got it! You will have four markers placed after joining the sleeves to the body, and will use these markers to keep track of where to place the decreases for the armholes. Keep going, you’re nearly there!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I’ve started knitting the rolled edge version and have completed 6 inches. Unfortunately the rolled edge has continued to curl all the way up. In order to achieve the correct tension, I started with 3mm /US3 needles then changed to a 3.5mm/ US 4; I guess there wasn’t enough difference in the needle size? Please can you tell me what can do to remedy the curl? If possible I would prefer not to start all over again. Could I cut off the bottom and add a ribbed edge? I’ve not done Kitchener stitching before so am a little apprehensive. Is there another, easier option?
Many thanks
Hi Heather,
I’m so sorry to hear that your sweater is not turning out as you expected! Depending on your yarn, the rolled edge may block out much flatter, so I would suggest first blocking the portion you have done to see if you will be happy with the results. If not, rather than cutting the edging off, you could pick up stitches from the cast on edge and knit the ribbing down from there or possibly work a row of crochet on the bottom edge if you happen to be a crocheter. It is possible to cut or unravel the cast on edge, but it’s quite a bit of work and taking out the front edge treatments would make it even trickier than usual, so I would try a few less drastic measures first!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thank you, Julianna. I’ll try blocking but as I’m knitting with two strands of lace weight baby alpaca, I’m not holding out much hope. If it doesn’t work, I’ll try picking up stitches from the cast on edge and knitting the ribbing down.
Thank you for your help.
Good Morning,
I am working the 3-Needle Bind off to join the placket to the body. When I complete the bind off do I cut the yarn after pulling it through the last stitch? Then start with a new working yarn in the next section to shape the neckline? Thanks. Susan
Hello Susan,
Thank you for reaching out! If you used your working yarn for your bind off you should be able to continues using your working yarn after completing the bind off. Once you pull your last stitch of the next stitch in you can continue on to the next row.
I hope this makes sense and let me know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I’m new to knitting. I’ve mastered washcloths & scrubbies, and I’ve made hats in the past. Can you suggest a cardigan pattern for someone who is fairly new to knitting? I mean like a “knitting for dummies” sort of pattern. 🙂 I am ready to be a bit more challenged. Thank you in advance and thank you for having the best site and yarn!
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! It is such an exciting step to make the leap to knitting garments! Fortunately, we have quite a few beginner level sweater patterns you can choose from. The Classic Crewneck Cardigan above is fairly straightforward, but does introduce quite a few techniques that will probably be new to you, so you may want to save it for your next sweater project. Our Sweatshirt Sweater is very popular with new sweater knitters, as is the Purl Soho Pullover. I also think our Circular Yoke Summer Shirt, Top-Down Circular Yoke Pullover, Sayer by Julie Hoover, or Simple Yoke Cardigan would be great options! Whatever you choose, we include links to tutorials for new techniques in all of our patterns, and we are always here to help if you run into any problems.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
So excited to get started on this cardigan! It calls for 3 types of circular needles. They are US 3 24, US 5 16 and US 5 32 (so, I’m thinking in terms of small, big, biggest). The opening directions for the rolled edge version say:
Cast on X stitches onto smaller circular needles. It says “smaller” not smallest, so does this mean the 3 24s, or the 5 16s?
Thank you!
Hello Mim,
Thank you for reaching out! This actually refers to your needle size, rather than your cord length so you will be starting with your US3 24″.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello Again!
I have now knit the first sleeve to the required 18 1/2 inches, but have a question. My arm from shoulder to wrist is longer than this. Will I be creating the top of the sleeve in further steps in the pattern? Is that what creates the few more inches so that it goes all the way up to the shoulder seam? Thank you – this is my first-ever sweater and I’m puzzling over each step 🙂
Hello Mim,
Thank you for reaching out! You will be, when you attach your sleeves to your body, your sleeves will line up with your body at your underarms.
Good luck with you first sweater and let us know any questions along the way!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I’ve run into a problem with the pattern. I just completed the SHAPE YOKE section. Depending on what size you are making, there are either odd or even numbers of rows in this section. For example, at one size, this ends up being 10 rows (even) but for my size it’s 13 (odd). My size is, thus, ending on a purl row, whereas a smaller size is ending on a knit row.
So, the confusion here is, the next section (SHAPE FRONT ARMHOLE), begins:
Row 1 (wrong side): [slip 1 knitwise wyif] 3 times, purl to end of row.
So, the transition between SHAPE YOKE and SHAPE FRONT ARMHOLE at my size would have me doing 2 purl rows in a row, and that can’t be right. Especially since at a smaller size, it correctly transitions from a knit row to a purl row.
What’s wrong here and what should I do? Thanks!
Hello Mim,
Thank you for reaching out! For this section you will be repeating rows 1 and 2 13 times rather than just row 1. This means that it is actually 26 rows rather than 13. “Repeat Rows 1 and 2 eight (9, 10, 10, 12, 12, 13, 13) more
times”.
I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hello Good Friends at Purl Soho,
I am now to the section on page 9 of the cardigan which reads as follows:
–
BACK
Decrease Sleeves + Shape Back Shoulders
Short Row 1 (wrong side) Purl to next marketer, purling wrapped stitches with their wraps as you come to them, remove marker, p2tog, place 28 stitches just worked onto scrap yarn or stitch holder, ssp, sm, purl to next marker, sm, p2tog, turn work.
Note: Now you will be working just the Back stitches and half of the left and rights sleeve stitches. Leave the remaining stitchses on the cable of the circular needles but do not work them.
–
My question is, when I put the 28 stitches on the scrap yarn, am I taking them off the needle? It seems like I should, but then I saw in the next paragraph the Note section about not removing stitches from the needle. Yet, that follows the first paragraph, so likely it doesn’t apply.
Still, I would like to be certain about those 28 stitches – take them off the needle or leave them on?
Thank you for guidance!
Hi Mim,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, you will be taking those 28 stitches off the needle and placing them on a holder for later. In the next step, since you are still working short rows, there will be other stitches that you will not be working that will stay on the needle. It sounds a bit confusing, but I think it will make more sense when you start knitting the next few rows!
Best of luck, and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi,
I am at the neckline portion of the pattern and I am making the ribbed edge version. I understand I am to pick up 101 stitches but I am unsure of the reference to the vertical edge and how to pick up 2 stitches for every 3 rows. Any further instruction would be greatly appreciated.
Hello Susan,
Thank you for reaching out! Vertical edges just means the parts that are along rows rather than a cast off edge. At your neck you will be picking up stitches along a cast off edge as well as a vertical edge, this is why we clarify this in the pattern. When you are picking up along a cast off edge you are picking up a stitch at each stitch, but on the vertical stitches you will be picking up 2 stitches for every three rows.
I hope this clarifies things, but please let us know if you still have any questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
I have run into confusion at one point in the pattern. I am at the point of doing the wrp&t’s at the neckline and am confused by something the pattern is saying. I need clarification please. Thank you.
Hi Leigh Ann,
Thanks for reaching out! We would be happy to help clarify this step for you! Can you tell me what part of the pattern is confusing you?
Best,
Julianna
Classic crewneck cardigan.
I am doing chest size 37-38 (3rd in brackets).
I am having trouble finishing this pattern as the instructions on Page 9 don’t equate.
Page 6. At the end of ‘Decrease Left Front Sleeve’ – you are left with 23 stitches for Left Front, 8 stitches for Left Sleeve (152 stitches in all).
We go to the BACK
DECREASE SLEEVES + SHAPE BACK SHOULDERS
Short Row 1….(wrong side)…decrease 1 stitch by P2 tog. and placing that 1 stitch left (just worked) with the 23 for Left Front, making 24 stitches on scrap yarn. THAT LEAVES 6 STITCHES ON THE LEFT SLEEVE (having taken two stitches from the sleeve made it into one stitch and added that stitch to the 23)
We then ssp before next marker (1 more decreased), LEAVING 5 STITCHES ON LEFT SLEEVE, then P2 tog. (1 more decreased), making 3 stitches decreased.
THIS LEAVES 24 ON HOLD, 5 FOR LEFT SLEEVE (NOT 6), 86 for back and 11 for right sleeve. Total stitches 149, not 150 according to your pattern.
I’ve been over this pattern multiple times and can’t come up with an explanation as to why I’m supposed to have 6 stitches left for Left Sleeve at this point.
Am I going bonkers or am I missing something?
Would love to hear from you.
Thank you.
ann-marie in the UK
Hi Ann-Marie,
Thanks for writing in, and I’m sorry that you have had to go through so much work to puzzle through this row! You are correct that you will have 5 stitches left for the left sleeve, and in fact, we just released an updated version of this pattern last month correcting this specific issue. If you log in to either your purlsoho.com or Ravelry account, you can download an updated PDF, and I have also included the corrected row below. I hope that helps, and again, I sincerely apologize for all the confusion!
Short Row 1 (wrong side): Purl to next marker, purling wrapped stitches with their wraps, remove
marker, p2tog, place 21 (23, 23, 24) (24, 26, 26, 28) (30, 32, 33, 36) stitches just worked onto stitch
holder or scrap yarn; purl to 2 stitches before next marker, ssp, sm, purl to next marker, sm, p2tog,
turn work. [21 (23, 23, 24) (24, 26, 26, 28) (30, 32, 33, 36) stitches on holder for Left Front; 5
stitches for Left Sleeve; 76 (80, 82, 86) (88, 92, 94, 98) (104, 108, 112, 118) stitches for Back; 11
stitches for Right Sleeve; 20 (22, 22, 23) (23, 25, 25, 27) (29, 31, 32, 35) stitches for Right Front]
All the best,
Julianna
Phew!
Thank you so much Julianna.
I’ve been longing to finish this cardigan and now I can! 🙂
ann-marie
Re: Classic Cardigan pattern update
Dear Julianna
Thank you for the corrected row.
I’ve tried to download the updated pdf of this pattern but keep receiving the ‘old’ incorrect version, or asks me to buy the pattern again. As I’ve already bought it once, I don’t want to do that.
Where do I go to download the updated pdf Classic Cardigan pattern without charge?
Thanks again
ann-marie
Hi Ann-Marie,
I’m sorry you’re not finding the current version! Are you trying to download it from Purl Soho or from Ravelry, and does the name of the pdf have v1x or v2x at the end? We double-checked the version that is available to download from our website and it is the correct version that ends in v2x. To download it from us, first you will need to log in to your purlsoho.com account via the “My Account” link at the bottom of this page. After you are logged in, on the left side of your screen, you will find a link to “My Pattern PDFs,” where you can download any pattern you have purchased from us, and the updated version should be there!
Best,
Julianna
Hi, how are the sleeves constructed? Are they knit in the round with the body, decreasing at the cap and grafted at the top, like Barbara Walker’s simultaneous set-in sleeves? I see what looks like a slipped stitch line that doesn’t go all the way down, and they don’t look knit flat and sewed in.
Hi and thanks for reaching out! This sweater is indeed constructed with seamless set-in sleeves, although I’m not sure how similar they are to Barbara Walker’s method, and the shoulders are joined with a 3-needle bind off. The column of stitches that you are seeing is actually just stacked k2tog and ssk decreases that are part of the sleeve shaping!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello ! I am using this pattern as a guide for a jumper that will be knit up in your spectrum silk. I have gauged and I can make it work with this yarn and the measurements. I have also converted it into a jumper version instead of a cardigan. However It will be striped and I am wondering how the strips will work with your seamless set-in sleeves in the round and the short rows in the back. The stripes change colours every four rows. I was on ravelry and no one has knit this cardi with stripes yet! Your input would be great appreciated, I am about to join sleeves to begin the yoke section, the spectrum silk is absolutely lovely 🙂 Thank you in advance!
Hi Pastille,
Thanks for reaching out! That sounds like such a fun idea and I am so glad to hear you are enjoying working with Spectrum Silk! Since this hasn’t been done in stripes before it may just take some trial and error to get it all worked out. The sleeves in the round should be fairly easy with the stripes but the short rows may be a little more tricky to keep the stripes consistent all the way through.
Please let us know how this works out! Happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi — I am planning on making this cardigan for my mom for Christmas. She has some arthritis in her hands, which makes small buttons a challenge. Could this pattern be altered to allow for larger buttons?
Thanks!
Hi Emma,
Thanks for reaching out! I think you could certainly adjust the pattern to accommodate a larger button!
All the best,
Gianna
I am getting 24 stitches to 4″ on #5 needles but only 28 rows rather than 36. Is the row gauge correct in the pattern? I have not wet blocked my swatch yet, but I though I’d check before doing that since there is such a large difference between my row count and the gauge row count. Thanks!
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out! I would suggest blocking your swatch and then re-measuring your gauge, we determine all of our gauge measurements based on the blocked piece, so once you do that you will be able to tell if you are closer to the gauge of the pattern or if you need to make any adjustments!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hello,
Would this pattern work with super kid mohair (Coorie). It seems like it’d be a good combination although I noticed that the only recommended patterns listed for that yarn are scarfs, hats, and mittens…
Thank you for your feedback
Hi Caroline,
Thanks for reaching out. You could certainly use Coorie for this cardigan!
As always, we recommend making a gauge swatch before starting a project to be sure you’re working with the right needles, especially when substituting yarn. If this is daunting, I’d recommend checking out our tutorial called All About Gauge, which covers some incredibly helpful information.
All the best,
Lili
Hi again,
I got the gage with #3 needles, and I knitted part of a sleeve. My knitting is usually very even, although with Coorie on double point needles, I find it a bit irregular. I’m trying to switch the stitches so they are not always on the same needles, but I still have a number of larger stitches in places. Is that a known feature os Coorie, and will it even out when blocking? What is your experience with it? I guess I could try to block my piece of sleeve to check….
Hi Caroline,
Thanks for writing in! Coorie is a bit tricky to work with, it can be a little hard to get the tension right and some stitches may look uneven, but blocking will help so much. In my experience working with it, my knitting always comes out a little uneven but once I blocked it the overall look come out much cleaner! For more tips on blocking I suggest checking out our lovely Blocking tutorial!
I hope this helps!
Gianna
Hello Purl Soho,
What would be the best cast on method for this cardigan?
Kind regards,
Julianne
Hi Julianne,
Thanks for writing in! We don’t specify the type of cast-on when starting the ribbed or rolled-edge version of this cardigan, so you could definitely go with your favorite cast-on. For example, a basic Long-Tail Cast-On would work great. During the Create Placket sections though, the pattern calls for a Cable Cast-On so I would stick with that. Here’s a tutorial in case you’re interested in more information: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/cable-cast-on/
Hope this helps! Have a great rest of your day!
All the best,
Cat
I am interested in making this cardigan with the Season Alpaca. I knit a sweater using baby alpaca and found it stretched out of shape when I wore it. Does the Season Alpaca maintain it’s shape or should I try a different yarn?
Hi Anne,
Thanks for reaching out. Alpaca is indeed a relatively heavy fiber, so it does have a tendency to stretch when used for a larger garment like a cardigan. Its weight is also what gives it its lovely drape! But if you’re hoping for a yarn with more bounce to it, then I’d suggest a wool yarn. Wigeon would be great because it will maintain its shape while being just as soft (if not softer!) than Season Alpaca. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Would I be able to make the Classic Crewneck Cardigan with Spectrum Silk?
Hi Christa,
Thanks for reaching out. You may be able to use Spectrum Silk to make this pattern, but it is a bit thinner than the recommended sportweight yarn. In order to figure out if it will work, we recommend knitting a gauge swatch before casting on your project. You may be able to get gauge by sizing up your needles! If you would like to learn more about this, we have a handy tutorial called All About Gauge.
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Lili