Botanical Yoke Pullover
There are some very compelling reasons to embark on our Botanical Yoke Pullover: the challenge of trying something new, the joy of wearing something lovely and handmade, and the satisfaction of working with beautiful yarn in your hands.
Our first reason for starting was our soft and sumptuous Cashmere Merino Bloom, a perfect blend of extra fine merino wool and cashmere. Its tidy spin gives wonderful stitch definition to all the twining cables of this sweater, while its downy halo of cashmere softens the edges.
Next, we turned to a simple, bottom-up yoke construction. After a good portion of easy-going 2 x 2 rib, the excitement really begins with an engaging and intuitive cabled yoke. Our Botanical Yoke Pullover Pattern details this section in both written and chart form, and it’s truly a lot less complicated than it may look!
After all this, reason number one to knit our Botanical Yoke Pullover: it’s absolutely beautiful! Please enjoy this knitting experience, as well as the incredible reward for having finished! -Kristy
Update: New Colors
October 8, 2021
The occasion for casting on for a new version of this old classic is the arrival of nine gorgeous new colors, starting with this pretty-as-can-be Rosebud Pink. Explore the whole palette, which is now 31 colors strong, and pick the one that will be the seed for your own Botanical Yoke Pullover!
Update: Now For Dogs
November 14, 2021
What better way to show love for our canine friends than with a sweater fit for a human? Sole Salvo has done just that with her inspired Botanical Yoke Sweater For Dogs! Choose from one of 30 gorgeous shades of natural or dyed Good Wool and you and your pet will be stepping out in matching pullovers in no time!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Kristina McGowan. Click here to see even more of Kristina’s designs!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoBotanicalYokePullover, and #PurlSohoCashmereMerinoBloom. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 7 (8, 9, 10) (10, 11, 12) (13, 13, 14) skeins of Purl Soho’s Cashmere Merino Bloom, 75% extra fine merino wool, 25% cashmere; approximately 1495 (1655, 1850, 1985) (2145, 2310, 2480) (2655, 2810, 2960) yards required. We used Honey Pink.
- US 5 (3.75 mm), 32 or 40-inch circular needles, depending on sweater size
- US 5, 24-inch circular needles
- US 5, 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 5 double pointed needles
- A cable stitch holder
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- A Botanical Yoke Pullover Pattern
NOTE: Looking to knit your sleeves in double-time? Swap the double pointed needles for 32-inch or longer circular needles, and check out our Magic Loop: Two At A Time Tutorial!
Gauge
28 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches in 2 x 2 ribbing, relaxed after blocking
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
34¼ (37¾, 41¼, 44½) (48, 51½, 54¾) (58¼, 61¾, 65¼)
To fit actual chest circumference of 29¼–31¼ (32¾–34¾, 36¼–38¼, 39½–41½) (43–45, 46½–48½, 49¾–51¾) (53¼–55¼, 56¾–58¾, 60¼–62¼) inches with 3–5 inches of positive ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 34¼ (37¾, 41¼, 44½) (48, 51½, 54¾) (58¼, 61¾, 65¼) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 24 (24½, 25, 25¼) (25½, 25¾, 26) (26½, 27, 27½) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 15 (15, 15, 14¾) (14¾, 14¾, 14¾) (15, 15¼, 15½) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Cuff: 17½ (18, 18, 18½) (18½, 18½, 19) (19, 19½, 19½) inches
SAMPLE: The sweater shown here is size 37¾ with 5¼ inches of ease.
Pattern
Our Botanical Yoke Pullover Pattern is available for purchase as a PDF download.
Update: More Sizes
January 2020
We’ve expanded the size range for our Botanical Yoke Pullover Pattern! Since last spring, all of our new sweaters fit at least a 60-inch chest. If you downloaded this pattern in the past, please update your pattern for free, either in My Pattern PDFs on your My Account page at purlsoho.com or in your Ravelry library.
This pattern is absolutely stunning!!
oui Cathy, c’est superbe , ton prochain projet !
Not only has this gorgeous design left me gobsmacked, one could faint from the subtle yarn color choices of your Cashmere Merino Bloom.
The Botanical Yoke Pullover is absolutely gorgeous, but I don’t know if I’ve got the skills to do a sweater. How difficult is this sweater to make? I’d say I was an ‘advanced beginner’. It would be so very helpful if you’d post the knitting level or knitting expertise of your patterns. I see many of your patterns that I’d love to buy, but just don’t want to get over my head – and then discouraged. Help!
Hi Bebe,
Thanks for the kind words! I would say that this is not a good choice for a first sweater. This is more of an advanced pattern on account of the cables and short rowing at the yoke. Also, thank you for your suggestion about posting the knitting levels. We’ll keep it in consideration for future projects!
Best,
Adam
I’m an intermediate knitter and earlier this year I dreaded to do a cable pattern but was amazed at how much easier it was than I feared. Try a few sample blocks of different cable stitches. Lots of free lessons/demonstrations on internet.
Truly a stunner!
What a stunning sweater!
If only I could knit sweaters to fit.
Hi Debbi!
I couldn’t help but want to reply to your comment. I checked this book out at my local library a year ago for just this very reason:
Knit to Flatter: The Only Instructions You’ll Ever Need to Knit Sweaters that make You Look Good and Feel Great! By Amy Herzog. It was published in 2013 and has incredibly helpful tips and instructions for adapting any sweater pattern to fit our individual bodies 🙂
What knitting level would you classify this pattern as?
Thank you!!
Hi Audrey,
Thanks for writing in! It all depends on the knitter. If you’ve done cables and short rowing in a sweater before, then you can definitely take on this project. For those who haven’t, it depends on how comfortable you are following a pattern because it is quite involved when it comes to the yoke. In my opinion, I’d say this pattern is advanced-intermediate level. Let us know how it goes if you decide to knit it!
-Adam
I was really taken by this gorgeous sweater pattern – my finances cannot allow the beautiful yarn that was used. Can you recommend alternate yarn(s) for those of us with less financial freedom?
Hi Joan,
Thanks for your question and for your kind words! We understand that our yarn choices can sometimes be inspirational and I am happy offer some alternatives! Brooklyn Tweed’s new yarn Arbor could work well. Our Mulberry Merino or Flax Down would also make great substitutions.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Regarding the ease: Is it 2-4 inches bigger than the measurements, or 2-4 inches smaller?
Hi Liz,
Thanks for writing in! To choose the best size for you, measure your chest and add 2 to 4 inches. Then select the nearest size to that measurement. This size should work well and fit as the pattern intended!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Hi! I bought yarn and pattern today. BUT – NEED clarification. Says should have 2 inches positive ease – but is that built in or do I size up? Please advise thanks! The size to knit and finished size are same – so I tend to think it’s built in and I just size up. Thanks.
Hi Cindy,
Thanks for writing in! To choose the best size for you, measure your chest and add 2 inches. Then select the nearest size to that measurement. This size should work well and fit as the pattern intended.
Best,
Cassy
thank you!
Beautiful! I love how the cable begins and runs into the sweater. Cables pop-out with lighter colors but I’m curious how it would knit up in charcoal and salt n pepper. Gulp…
Hi Janet,
Thanks for the lovely comment! I think this would look great in charcoal, but salt and pepper might be too busy for the cable stitch to stand out. Hope you decide to knit this!
-Adam
Yes, I was thinking the same. Do you have a photo of this sweater in Charcoal or any other color?
Hi Janet,
Thanks for writing in! At present we only have photos of this lovely sweater in the original color. I quick sweep of Ravelry and I see that people are knitting it in a variety of colors but no one is quite finished yet.
Best,
Cassy
Question: The model wears a size small?
Hi Pat,
The Honey Pink (beige-ish color) is the 37 1/4″ size. The white is 41 1/4″ size. Hope this helps!
Best,
Adam
As always PURL SOHO leaves me over enthusiastic when I first set eyes on each new pattern. Naturally using the chosen / recommended yarn makes the garment the success it deserves. One day I will treat myself to a batch of beautiful yarn, but first I MUST reduce my existing stash. I hope too to achieve the smooth stitch effect with better quality yarns that I currently use. I try so hard to knit each stitch to perfection yet an the end I always seem to have to stretch, flatten and or tug here and there to get a perfect finished look. (Any suggestions will be welcome).
Hi Heather,
So happy you love the pattern! As a sample knitter for Purl, I find that lots of gauge swatches make the finished project turn out better. I block every piece based on how I feel it will block best and I test out different blocking methods for each project. All great knitters have to tug at their work a little! It’s a part of knitting that you have to accept. You always want to make a beautiful and perfect garment going into the project, but it’s wise to keep in mind that these are hand made pieces and their flaws give them charm. Best of luck on your knitting adventures!
-Adam
Beautiful sweater… just wish plus size gals were remembered when patterns are written. Big girls like beautiful things too!
Hi Sherry,
Thanks for writing in! We of course try to include everyone when writing our patterns and apologize that your size isn’t in the size chart for this project. I hope that in the future you’ll find our patterns go up to your size. We definitely keep these requests in mind for all future projects!
All the best,
Adam
I’m drooling over this beautiful sweater pattern! I’d love to be able to knit and wear it but being new to the knitting world, not sure if it’s for a beginner. I can read and follow patterns, what do you think?
Hi Sandii,
Thanks for the lovely comment! I don’t think that this is a great sweater for your first sweater, but if you have done sweaters and cables before, you might want to give this a try!
Thanks again!
-Adam
Wow! This garment looks very interesting. Love the yoke. Well done designers.
this gorgeous sweater belongs on the runway in France and Italy……
OK, so how difficult is this beautiful pattern? The only sweater I have knitted is your top down Fair Isle Sweater for my son. I haven’t tried cables before! Up for a challenge but a little apprehensive…
Hi Ciara,
Thanks for writing in! This sweater is more on the advanced intermediate side on account of the cabling, decreasing, grafting and short rowing. The techniques are learnable though and once you get them they are great to have in your repertoire. I think that if you are ready for a challenging knit, go for it! Best of luck!
-Adam
This is an absolutely gorgeous pattern and exactly the type of garment I’m looking for: simple and basic with interesting details. I love the feel of cashmere but I was wondering if you could offer some other less expensive yarn suggestions, too. Thanks.
Hi Lynesia,
Thanks for your question and for your kind words! We totally understand that our yarn choices can sometimes be inspirational and I am happy offer some alternatives! Brooklyn Tweed’s new yarn Arbor could work well. Our Mulberry Merino or Flax Down would also make great substitution.s
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Also, I was wondering what size to knit. I’m normally a medium to large, size 12 top, 38 bust. I have broad shoulders but don’t like things super clingy on my torso and sometimes ribbed knits can be that way. I would want it to fit like it does in the picture, where it doesn’t look like the ribs are really stretched out. Would the 41-1/4 be the best size?
Hi Lyneisa,
Thanks for writing in! Based on a chest measurement of 38 around, I do think that the 41 1/4 would be the appropriate size. Be sure to measure the fullest portion of your bust and use this as the measurement to base your size on. Then add 2-4″ inches to that measurement and select that size.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Love this design…but have a ? It seems like way too much yardage…is there a reason…does this particular design require more yarn then usual? Thanks!
Hi Barb,
Thanks for writing in! You are correct! There is more yardage called for than usual. Both ribbing and cables eat up a lot more yarn than stockinette and that accounts for the extra yardage called for here!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
This is absolutely stunning! I just wish you had one to two larger sizes. I know not all patterns are flattering for larger women, but I think this one would be.
Hi Lisa,
Thank you for the beautiful comment! We try to hit all adult sizes for our paid for patterns, but sometimes can’t make all sizes available. We will of course, however, keep you in mind for future sizing of our paid for patterns! Thanks for the kind words again. We really appreciate it!
-Adam
Is this knit bottom up in pieces or in the round? Absolutely beautiful btw.
Hi Su B,
Thanks for the question and for the kind words! For this lovely sweater, you will work the Sleeves and Body in the round from the bottom up, then join them to work the Yoke in one piece!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Is it possible to make this sweater in cotton? Or a cotton blend without wool? Thank you for any additional yarn recommendations for this beautiful design.
Hi Drew,
Thanks for your interest in this pattern! You can certainly make this pattern in a DK weight cotton. I suggest our Cotton Pure. There are many shades and it’s very soft!
All the best,
Adam
Is the pattern seamless?
Hi Lorelei,
Thanks so much for your question! This lovely sweater is seamless and knit from the bottom up. You will join the arms to the body and continue knitting the yoke. At the end the under arms are grafted.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Help! Loving the pattern – it looks gorgeous. BUT I am struggling the instruction on the sleeve increases. I am probably being thick but could you please spell out the stitches on the round following each increase round (for both the knit and purl increases). I can’t quite understand the “work the new stitches into the ribbing pattern”. I just can’t visualise how this is going to work. Thank you!
Hi Hayley,
Thanks for writing in! Basically, when you are ready to increase on the sleeve, you will m1p for the first and second increase rounds. The third and fourth increase rounds will be the m1R/m1L increases. This incorporates the 2×2 rib into the increase, making 2 purl stitches on either side of center over two increase rounds and 2 knit stitches on either side of center for the other two increase rounds. I think that if you continue knitting the increases, you’ll see the result in the fabric. Best of luck and feel free to write back if it’s still not clear.
Thanks,
Adam
I am confused on the increases as well. This answer seems the opposite of the pattern which says the first 2 increase rounds should be make 1 left and make one right to create knit stitches and the following two increase rounds work increases as make 1 purl to create purl stitched. Am I missing something? Thx in advance for your help
Hi Diane,
Thanks for the question and sorry about the confusion. The pattern states that you M1R/L or M1P depending on which is necessary. Hope this helps!
-Adam
I got the wrong end of the stick as well and now have to rip it out AGAIN. I love the pattern but this part is really not clear. A photo of what the sleeve increases should look like would have helped a lot. I’ll get there eventually but ripping it out is painful.
Hi Maire,
Sorry for the trouble! If you have a question, feel free to ask and maybe one of us can answer you in the comments section. Thanks!
-Adam
Could you please try to phrase the sleeve increase with other words as it is still not understandable for all of us ?
I am glad to read that other people do not get it either…..
saying “M1R/L or M1P depending on which is necessary” does not help at all , sorry for being thick
Hi Marie,
I will try my best to help! On the sleeves, you will select M1R/M1L OR M1P depending on what will work best for maintaining the 2 x 2 rib pattern. This is a bit more art than science. You can decide which you think looks better at each increase. What Adam recommended above, is what we did for our sample but whatever you think looks best will work here.
Please do let us know if there is anything else we can do to help!
Cassy
I was thinking of knitting this for myself, then my partner caught sight of it and fell in love. Would this pattern work for a slim man? It won’t be a problem to add extra length to the body and arms but I’m wondering if the fit around the shoulders might need some adjustment? Thankyou!
Hi Ashley,
I think this would work for a man as long as you can knit a size that will fit his chest width. The shoulders won’t need alteration if he is rather slim, but because they are broader than a woman’s the neck might turn out a bit wider. Best of luck!
-Adam
Stunning pattern I am from New Zealand Visiting New York in February March and will be looking your shop up. In the meantime will hopefully knit this in a NZ possum yarn from my stash until I can get to the merino cashmere – love the pale lilac colour – thanks
Hi, Carol!
Thank you so much for your kind words! We look forward to your visit!
Best,
Kumeko
Hi,
Being European I’m a metric knitter, so could you please translate the measurements into the metric system? I’d buy the pattern for this beautiful sweater in a heartbeat if you did!
Hello, Sofie!
Thank you so much for writing in! We hear you! We strive to make our patterns accessible to everyone and we are very sorry that you won’t be purchasing this pattern. Including metric measurements is something that we will consider. Again, thank you so much for writing in. We really do appreciate and welcome all feedback!
Best,
Kumeko
This pattern in gorgeus!
Is there any way this pattern can be sized larger? You have left out an awful lot of people who would love to knit this sweater.
Hi Kim,
Thanks for writing in! We of course try to include everyone when writing our patterns and apologize that your size isn’t in the size chart for this project. I hope that in the future you’ll find our patterns go up to your size. We definitely keep these requests in mind for all future projects!
Best,
Cassy
c’est un travail de points extraordinaire.
Hello, Christine!
Thank you very much for you kind words!
Best,
Kumeko
Love this!
Just got the pattern and will knit it as the pattern instructions describe, but next time I want to modify the sleeves to include a bit of the cable at the wrists? I’m an intermediate knitter and like the challenge of cable patterns – a lot easier than I thought. If I cast on 60 stitches for the sleeve, do you have any suggestions to modify the pattern to put some cables there.
Hi Maggie,
Thanks for writing us! I think this is a wonderful idea! I suggest doing a *C8F, k2, p2, repeat from * to end of round. This is a repeat of 12 stitches, so you should have five cables. Best of luck and let us know how it goes!
-Adam
I wish I could knit this sweater – is it possible to translate maesures into metricsystem? Or is it ok easy to do it myself? Anyone who have succeeded? I really want to make this!!
Hi Karen,
Thanks for writing in! Our patterns are only available in imperial at present but we appreciate the request and will take it under advisement. When I need to translate a pattern from metric, I use online calculators to do so. Google’s calculator is particularly helpful and easy to use!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I love, love, love this pattern! Is it possible to knit it top down?
Hi Deenie,
Thanks for writing in! This pattern is written bottom up. Knitting it top down would require quite a bit of rewriting!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
My son ( a senior citizen) is buying the pattern and yarn for me to make the Botanical Yoke Pullover for the Love of his life. She is fair and slender, so the neutral shades will allow her to add punch with colored scarves or accessories. I can’t wait to get started. Oh please tell me your skeins are already wound in balls! I hate winding. I make a lot of lace, so I would love your recommendations for lace weight yarns. I have received a gift of a spinning wheel so I am learning to spin alpaca, llama and sheep wool because my old sources of lace weight yarn are gone.
Hi Joanna,
Thanks for writing in! Your lovely story warmed my heart! Our yarn does not come wound but we can wind it for you. At check out in the Order Overview section, you should be able to indicate that you would like your yarn wound.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
I am going to try this beautiful sweater as soon as I finish the twisted rib sweater. Have not done cables before but I am up for the challenge! Do you think that the Botanical Yoke Sweater would look as beautiful with one of the heathered yarns? I really love the rose granite in the Cashmere Merino Bloom, by wondering if the heathered effect of the yarn would distract from the pattern. Thanks for any suggestions!
Hi Stacy,
Thank you for writing in! I think this would look lovely using a heathered yarn, especially the Rose Granite!
Best,
Kumeko
The start of row marker in the yoke is at the beginning of the left sleeve. It seems the short rows after row 56 of the pattern will add length to the front on the sweater, not the back. Am I missing something here? The sweater is looking lovely – started it with tubular cast ons which I think are a nice look.
Hi Sally,
Thanks for pointing this out! We are currently reviewing the pattern and will make changes if needed. At this point in the pattern your front and back have the same amount of stitches, so you can now treat what you’ve been referring to as the front as the back. It won’t change anything. Let me know if you have any other questions. I’d be glad to help!
-Adam
The front and back have the same amount of stitches, but the sleeves are set in and are not symmetric ; there are more stitches from the middle/increase line of the sleeve toward the back than toward the front, so it might make a slight difference to just make the front the back in the fit of the sweater.
Hi Sally,
Thank you for writing back. We heard back from the editor and the pattern should read as such:
Short Row 1 (right side): [K2, p2] 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) times, k1, wrp-t.
The subsequent rows should be correct. Let me know how that goes!
-Adam
Bit the bullet and ordered this pattern to make a sweater for my son’s girlfriend. Although pricey, this patter was worth every penny. Deceptively easy to follow but creating this exquisite sweater, I was thrilled with the pattern and the results.
Will look to Purl Soho for patterns, yarn and community in the future!
I just cannot get on with circular needles, can instructions be converted to straight needles?
Hi Mary,
Thanks for writing in! We understand that some of our customers are not comfortable yet with circular needles. However, given the complexity and structure of this sweater, it is not possible to convert it into a pattern for flat knitting. We appreciate your question and request and will keep it mind!
Best,
Cassy
Hi! I’ve been admiring this project since it was first published last fall, but I’ve been wanting to make something in Woolfolk Far. Would that be an acceptable substitute for the specified yarn?
Hi Andrea,
Thanks for writing in! The gauge of Far is 4-4.5 stitches per inch and then gauge for Cashmere Merino Bloom is 5-5.5 stitches per inch. This makes them fairly different! That said, if you knit a gauge swatch for this pattern using the suggested needles for the sweater and the Far and you like the fabric, you can carry on with the sweater!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
My knitting sister-in-law has mentioned that when blocking this pattern may not loosen up and will be tight on me. Do you know if this is a tighter fitting sweater? It’s a BEAUTIFUL design!!
Hi Connie,
Thanks for writing in! We found that with blocking, this sweater relaxed a bit. The ribbed nature of this sweater does mean that it will hug to your body more than a stockinette sweater. I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch in pattern, measuring it and then blocking it. Once blocked, you can measure it again and this will give you a good idea of how much the fabric will pull in or relax. Yarn can play a big part in whether the fabric pulls in or relaxes so each sweater could come out differently! The swatch is the best way to know for sure before you put all of that work into this lovely sweater!
Best,
Cassy
I know a question was previously asked about the sleeve increases but I still can’t figure that out. Hoping you can help to clarify again. Do you always keep one knit stitch at the beginning and end of the round? And then after an increase round, will you be knitting a previously pulled stitch (the 3rd stitch in) and purling a previously knit stitch? I’ve tried it both ways with M1L/M1R and M1P and can’t seem to get it right.
Thank you!!
Hi Kerry,
Thanks for writing us. Hopefully I can clarify this. Your first and last stitch will always be a K1 no matter increase round or not. However, after the first knit and before the last you will increase. Whether you are increasing for a knit or a purl determines how you will work that stitch. So, sometimes at the beginning of your round you will knitting the knits and purling the purls as they come because you will not have increased enough stitches to get back to a 2×2 ribbing repeat. Hope this makes sense!
-Adam
Is there in equivalent yarn I could buy in the UK so I could knit this pattern? (Is it Double knitting or chunky wool ?)
Hi Kathryn,
Thanks for writing in! Our Cashmere Merino Bloom comes in at 5 – 5.5 stitches per inch. We classify it as a DK weight which I believe is the same for the UK yarn weights! So you will be looking for a DK weight yarn with roughly 20 to 22 stitches over 4 inches.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Many thanks. Looking forward to knitting this lovely jumper.
Hello,
I am nearing the end of the pattern (huzzah!) and am ready to shape the neck. I have done short rows before many times so am familiar with the concept.
Back on page 7 it says to place the BOR marker at the LEFT back, add the left arm, knit the front, add the right arm, knit the back.
On page 8 it says to knit to end of Round then begin the short rows on the RS. If I do that, I will be knitting across the Left Sleeve and the Front, Wrapping and Turning and knitting back across the Front. So that the additional height will be on the front of the garment.
I am sure I missed something, but for the life of me cannot figure out what.
Please help. Thank you, Deborah
Hi Deborah,
Thanks for writing in. You have not missed anything! We have since added errata for this pattern. See below!
In the SHAPE NECK section on page 8, Short Row 1 should be:
Short Row 1 (right side): [K2, p2] 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) times, k1, wrp-t.
Thanks!
-Adam
I just finished making this sweater in the Cashmere Merino Bloom in ivory. It was so much fun to do. Really pretty easy and satisfying. Looks super complicated but really straight forward with the beautifully written directions. I did wind up going down to a size 4 (Signature Needle Arts circulars) to get the right gauge. Lots of gauge swatches and blocking to figure that out, but worth it. I had just finished the crossover sweater before this one….this one was sooooo much easier and a real pleasure to make. It is blocking right now. In my opinion, it can’t dry fast enough. I can’t wait to wear it! Thinking about trying the throw with steeks?!? next.
Hi, I’ve just bought this beautiful pattern but I can’t figure out how you intend to put stitches on holder. It says that you work some stitches (I suppose from the marker) then you put the “previous” stitches on holder and remove the end of row marker… How can you do it? It seems you go backwards… Maybe my english is not good enough, but I’m really stuck on this, and you need it both for sleeves and body. Can you help me understand?
Ty very much
Hi Laura,
I’d be happy to clear this up! Depending on your size, you’ll knit a certain amount past the beginning of round marker and place these stitches just worked and a certain amount of stitches at the end of round on a stitch holder. In short, you’ll have equal amounts of stitches on hold on either side of the beginning of round marker. This is so you can graft the underarm stitches of the body to the underarm stitches of the sleeve at the very end. If you still are unsure, please write back and I’ll try to clarify more.
All the best,
Adam
Hey there. I am making the 341/4 size sweater. I am wondering; if I want to lengthen the sleeves a bit, could I do 16 rows in the rib stitch and then begin the increase rows? That will give me an extra inch for my long arms! Thank you!
Veronica
Hi Veronica,
Thanks for writing in! You certainly could add some extra rows either at the bottom or the top of the sleeve. If you add to the bottom, be sure to try the sleeve on once you have made it through the first increase to be sure that it fits well!
Best,
Cassy
I am half way through the pattern on the first sleeve and am already at 11 inches long. I wrote out the pattern so I could see it and I have that it would take 141 rows to finish with the last increase. Did I count something wrong? The first 5 sets of 4 increase rows are every 6 rows and the last set every 4 rows. I am a tight knitter, so pretty sure the tension is not the issue. I have already finished the body and tension is the same on body and sleeve. I could do the increases every 4 rows now that I have finished the first 3 sets of increases at row 75, but want to to it correctly and the same on each sleeve.
Hi Stacy,
Thanks for writing in! It sounds like you are not getting row gauge for this sweater. Were you able to get gauge on your swatch? You should be getting 28 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches in 2 x 2 ribbing, relaxed after blocking. If you are getting stitch gauge but not row gauge, you could eliminate 1 row between each of the increase repeats. However, this will also affect the body of the sweater. Based on how many rows you have knit, you should be around 9-9.5 inches long. I would suggest checking your gauge and then restarting the sleeve.
I hope that this helps and don’t hesitate to ask any further questions!
Cassy
On page 7 of the pattern under Shape Yoke, the 4th instruction says “Repeat last round 7(13,19,27,33) more times”. I am concerned that 27 rounds (for size 44.5) before starting the yoke pattern is too many rows and the pattern will start too high up. Can you confirm that 27 is correct. Thx in advance
Hi Diane,
Thanks for writing in! The 27 rows is correct for this size. This is to accommodate the larger bust measurement for this size. However, if you still think that this will produce too much fabric, you can certainly knit fewer. We have not heard of this being necessary and a quick check at the completed items on Ravelry, I have been unable to find anyone noting that this was too many rounds.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy