Colorful Wedges Baby Blanket
Our Colorful Wedges Baby Blanket embraces the simplicity of garter stitch and throws in the diversion of simple short rows. It’s a wonderful project for dispelling any notions that short rows are difficult, and by the time your blanket is finished, you’ll be a short row pro (if you aren’t one already)!
Our soft and elegant Mulberry Merino works up beautifully in garter stitch and comes in a ton of stunning colors. If you’re like me, you’ll find yourself looking forward to each and every color change… A truly fun project all around!
Portable enough to take along on your summer trips, our Colorful Wedges Baby Blanket is knitting at its most stress-free and rewarding! Enjoy! -Kristy
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Kristina McGowan. Click here to see even more of Kristina’s designs!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoColorfulWedgesBabyBlanket. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
• 7 skeins of Purl Soho’s Mulberry Merino, 80% extra fine merino wool, and 20% mulberry silk approximately (NOTE: We no longer offer Mulberry Merino, but choose from one of our other sport weight yarns.)
- Color A: 1 skein; approximately 91 yards required
- Color B: 2 skeins; approximately 455 yards required
- Color C: 1 skein; approximately 91 yards required
- Color D: 1 skein; approximately 91 yards required
- Color E: 1 skein; approximately 91 yards required
- Color F: 1 skein; approximately 91 yards required
You’ll also need…
• US 5 (3.75 mm), 24-inch circular needles
Pink Sunrise
Shown from the bottom to the top…
Yarn A: 1 skein of Purl Soho’s Mulberry Merino in Ochre Yellow
Yarn B: 2 skeins of Mulberry Merino in Heirloom White
Yarn C: 1 skein of Mulberry Merino in Pink Grapefruit
Yarn D: 1 skein of Mulberry Merino in Super Pink
Yarn E: 1 skein of Mulberry Merino in Oyster Gray
Yarn F: 1 skein of Mulberry Merino in Artemisia Green
Blue Sky
Shown from the bottom to the top…
Yarn A: 1 skein of Purl Soho’s Mulberry Merino in Black Green
Yarn B: 2 skeins of Mulberry Merino in Heirloom White
Yarn C: 1 skein of Mulberry Merino in Green Turquoise
Yarn D: 1 skein of Mulberry Merino in Peacock Blue
Yarn E: 1 skein of Mulberry Merino in Artemisia Green
Yarn F: 1 skein of Mulberry Merino in Oyster Gray
Gauge
20 stitches and 40 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch
Size
Finished Dimensions: Approximately 30 inches wide x 30 inches long
Notes
Wrp-t: Keeping the yarn in back, slip the next stitch purlwise from the left needle to the right needle. Bring the yarn to the front. Return the slipped stitch to the left needle. Turn the work.
Working wrapped stitches: In this pattern, you do not need to work the wraps with the wrapped stitches. Just knit the wrapped stitches as regular knit stitches.
Pattern
Wedge 1
With Color A, cast on 150 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): K144, wrp-t (see Notes, above).
Row 3: Knit to end of row.
Row 4: Knit to five stitches before previous wrapped stitch, wrp-t. (Note: You’ll know you’re wrapping the correct stitch if there are 4 regular knit stitches between wrapped stitches.)
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until you wrap the fifth stitch from the beginning, and end with Row 3.
Next Row (wrong side): K150 to end of row (see Notes, above).
Cut Yarn A.
Wedge 2
Row 1 (right side): With Yarn B, K5, wrp-t.
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Row 3: Knit to previous wrapped stitch, knit that stitch, then k4, wrp-t.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until you have wrapped the fifth stitch from the end of the row, and end with Row 2.
Next Row (right side): K150 to end of row.
Next Row (wrong side): Repeat the last row.
Cut Yarn B.
Wedges 3 – 10
With Yarn C, repeat Wedge 1.
With Yarn B, repeat Wedge 2.
With Yarn D, repeat Wedge 1.
With Yarn B, repeat Wedge 2.
With Yarn E, repeat Wedge 1.
With Yarn B, repeat Wedge 2.
With Yarn F, repeat Wedge 1.
With Yarn B, repeat Wedge 2, ending one row before the last row.
Bind off all stitches.
Finish
Weave in ends and block as desired.
Hi,
Approximately how many yards of each color is needed for this blanket?
Thanks,
Gail
Hi Gail,
You’ll need about 91 yards of all of the colors except the Heirloom White, for which you’ll need 455 yards. I hope this helps! Thanks for writing in!
Kristy
Hi,
What does the -t mean in wrap-t?
Thanks
Hi Dale,
The “t” stands for “turn,” so you’ll wrap the stitch and then turn your work. A useful tutorial on the process of working short rows can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/06/18/short-rows/. I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any further questions and thanks for writing in!
Kristy
I wish the tutorial showed two colors. Would that be possible?
Hi Sheri,
We don’t currently have a short row tutorial in which we use two colors, but I’m hoping that this video clip might help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rFaxEY-gf5s. It also shows the short rows being worked in garter stitch in two colors.
Best,
Kristy
Thank you, Kristy. I watched both videos you have posted here. I’m going to figure it out! My thinking is…please correct me if I’m wrong, and I apologize for such newbie questions…we use color A, make a wedge using the wrp-t method, then using color B, we pick up the stitches and complete the wedge block. Continuing in this pattern?
Hi Sheri!
No apologies! It’s great that you wrote! You will cast on with Color A and, using short rows as instructed, will complete Wedge 1. You’ll then switch to Color B and again, using short rows (this time in the opposite direction), will create Wedge 2. You’ll then simply repeat Wedges 1 and Wedge 2, using a different color each time for Wedge 1 (Colors C, D, E & F). I hope this helps clarify and please don’t hesitate to ask any further questions you may have! Best of luck,
Kristy
I’ve just completed my first set of wedges. I LOVE IT! Thank you for your help. (Oh I also wanted it larger so I castes on 75 extra stitches. It used up my skein of yarn nearly perfectly. )
How did you figure out how many extra to do. Or is there not a “repeat” to worry about. Thank you!!?
Hello Deborah,
Thanks for writing in! To modify this blanket to make it larger you can cast on any amount of stitches so long as it is divisible by 5. This is because of where the wrap and turns are placed to create the wedges.
I hope this helps!
-Marilla
Sorry for another newbie comment. If I’m understanding correctly, you only work with one color at a time making a really skinny wedge, then whip stitch join a second contrasting color skinny wedge onto the first color to make the wedge shown with 2 colors? Or do you somehow work knit with the 2 colors at the same time? thanks.
Hi Barbara,
No need to apologize I’m happy to help! You will never knit two colors at the same time. Because you are using short rows all your stitches will remain live as you are creating your wedge. When you have finished creating your first wedge you will knit back across all 115 stitches with yarn A working wrapped stitches as you come to them. After you have done this you will start working the second wedge with yarn B.
For more clarification on short rows here is a helpful tutorial;
Please let me know if you have any further questions.
Warmly,
Marilla
your pattern would make a lovely scarf. hope you have one for us, soon. it would be great for my park ranger daughter…..
Hi Jo,
Thanks for the suggestion! We’ll be sure to keep it in mind! Thanks for writing!
Kristy
What’s the finished size? Might be a beautiful lap throw for grown-ups!
Hi Jennifer,
The finished size is 30 inches x 30 inches! Thanks for writing!
Kristy
I am always concerned about making good-looking edges … Do you recommend knitting the first and last stitches of every row for this blanket? Or slipping the first? Or some other kind of selvedge?
Thank you,
Pat M. in southern Oregon
Hi Pat,
For our sample, I knit the first and last stitch of every row, but you could certainly slip the first stitch of every row and that should also provide a nice, clean edge. Perhaps knitting up a small swatch just to see which method you prefer might be the most helpful. Good luck, and thanks for writing in!
Kristy
Every single project I’ve made from PS has been a treat. I can hardly wait to make this one. I actually like working short rows :=)
This is going right in my queue for the next baby that comes along!
Please make a pattern for this in a regular throw size!
Hi Shelly, Ellen and Tracey!
To make the blanket larger, you could try casting on 300 stitches instead of 150. For Row 2 of Wedge 1, you will K294, wrt-t (instead of K144, wrp-t), and you will K300 instead of K150 in subsequent rows. The rest of the pattern will be followed as written. Please let us know if you have any questions along the way. This will give you a finished measurement of 60 inches x 60 inches, and you will need 2 skeins each of Colors A, C, D, E and F and 8 skeins of Color B. Thanks for writing in and for your interest in the pattern!
Kristy
Thanks so much – you answered my question before I asked it. Love this blanket – and all your projects!
Beautiful and fun.
Any suggestions for making the blanket larger than crib size??
Hi!
I’m contemplating making this in a bedspread size…any tips for scaling it up?
Would this work in Kersti Merino Crepe, like the Super Easy Baby Blanket?
Thanks!
Hi Amy,
The Kersti Merino Crepe should work well for this blanket! It does have a suggested needle size that is slightly bigger than the one we used (the Kersti suggests using a 6 and we used a 5 for our blanket), and it might be useful for you to knit up a swatch in garter stitch with the recommended needle size (6) just to check your gauge. Your final blanket measurements may be slightly larger than our sample. But the blanket would be beautiful in this yarn as well. Please us know if you have any further questions and thanks for writing with this one!
Kristy
Is there a way to adapt this with a thicker yarn (Worsted Twist) in order to work it up more quickly?
Hi Rena,
The pattern would also work well in the Worsted Twist! And although we don’t currently have instructions available for a heavier weight (and are therefore unavailable to provide information on the specific quantities of yarn you’d need) it is definitely something we will keep in mind to do in the future. We appreciate your interest in the pattern — thanks for writing in!
Kristy
Hello, I’m a fairly new knitter, would this be an easy knit or more advanced? I really don’t want to start something that’s not achievable
Hi Joyce,
Creating the blanket in garter stitch (knitting every row) definitely makes the project beginner friendly. The only aspect that might be considered more intermediate would be creating the short rows. But you shouldn’t let this discourage you, because short rows are really not as tricky to work as they may seem! We have a tutorial to show you each step of the way (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/06/18/short-rows/) and when working in garter stitch, you will only need to wrap and turn the stitches (and not subsequently have to work the wraps) which makes the process even easier. We are here to help answer any questions that you may have along the way! Best of luck to you and thanks for writing!
Kristy
If I wanted to knit this in cotton, what would you recommend?
Hi Margaret,
You could try Blue Sky’s Skinny Cotton: https://www.purlsoho.com/yarn/knitting-crochet/skinny-cotton.html or Cascade’s Ultra Pima Cotton: https://www.purlsoho.com/yarn/knitting-crochet/ultra-pima.html. Both yarns should work well! For the Ultra Pima you would need 1 skein each of Colors A, C, D, E and F and 3 skeins of Color B. For Blue Sky’s Skinny Cotton, you would need 1 skein of Colors A, C, D, E, and F and 3 skeins of Color B. I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any further questions!
Kristy
Hello,
Could you post a video of the technique for Wedge No. 2? The short rows seemed to be worked as “needing over them” as opposed to leaving them unworked until the end when we knit the all the stitches. I hope I was able to express my confusion.
Regards
Hi Wren,
I’m sorry that we don’t have a video to post, but to work Wedge 2, you will begin on the right side of your work, and with Yarn B will knit 5 stitches and then wrap and turn the next stitch. On the next row (Row 2), you will knit to the end of the row. On Row 3, you will knit to the previously wrapped stitch, you will knit that stitch, then knit 4 stitches, and wrap and turn. You will then repeat Rows 2 and 3 until you have wrapped the fifth stitch from the end of the row, ending with Row 2. On the next Row (which will be on the right side), you will knit 150 stitches to the end of the row. To complete Wedge 2, you will then repeat the last row and knit 150 stitches to the end. Please let us know if this helps clarify! Best of luck and thanks for writing in!
Kristy
Just started the pattern, finished Wedge #1, began Wedge #2 and just realized wedge 2 is getting larger than wedge #1. I think I was expecting the last 5 sts to be all the way at the end of the row (other side of the blanket). I think my wedge #1 is 12 or 14 ridges. I am assuming all the wedges would be the same size. What am I missing? Thanks for your help. This is going to be lovely, I am using the Sirdar Baby Bamboo.
Hi Mary,
Thanks for writing, and yes! All of the wedges should be the same size. I’m not sure why your second wedge would be getting larger than your first. You will be working your short rows the same distance for both Wedges 1 and 2. Is this what you’ve been doing? They are worked the same way, just in different directions (if that makes sense!), and the length of each wedge (at the highest side) should be about 6 inches. I hope this helps, and wish I could help more! Please let us know if you have any further questions!
Kristy
Just realized what I was doing wrong. Am I correct that each wedge would be 30 garter stitch ridges?
Hi Mary,
This is great to hear! Each wedge should be about 6 inches at the highest point. Hope this helps!
Kristy
In the note section where it says ‘working the wrapped stitches’, if you were to work the wrapped stitches(even though it instructs not to) it would increase the total number of stitches in that row?
Hi Kate,
Thanks for writing! When you work the wrapped stitches it will not increase your total number of stitches as you will work the wrap and the stitch it was wrapping together. Your stitch count will stay the same. A useful photo tutorial of how the process works can be found here (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/06/18/short-rows/). I hope this helps clarify and we welcome any further questions you may have!
Kristy
Dear Kristina,
I was wondering if you could help me – I am about to embark on a baby blanket (yea!) and really like the look and feel of Colorful Wedges. However the colors of Mulberry Merino are difficult –
I would like a pathway that is “gender neutral” and colors that are softer and more infant-ish (as in the Chevron baby blanket.)
One is wool/silk, the other cotton…which do you think is better?
And could you possibly give me a suggestion for a softer, neutral pathway using Mulberry Merino or perhaps another yarn?
Or maybe I should just make the Chevron blanket…
Thank you so much for your help!
Mary –
Hi Mary,
Thanks for writing! One idea that comes to mind would be to use the colorway that you like from the Chevron Baby Blanket and use it to make the Colorful Wedges Blanket. The gauges of the two yarns are different and to make the substitution, you’ll have to knit up a small swatch in the cotton and see how many stitches you are getting to the inch and adjust accordingly (if you let us know your numbers we would be glad to help you with that), but the Colorful Wedges would be beautiful in cotton! You could consider the “Dandelion” colorway of the Chevron Blanket, using Tulip as Yarn B, and Lemongrass, Lemonade, Bone, Drift and Sleet for the remaining colors. You’ll need about 3 skeins of Tulip and 1 skein each of the rest. I hope this helps! It’s very exciting to be embarking on the blanket — best of luck and please let us know if you have any additional questions!
Kristy
Dear Kristy,
Thank you so much for your suggestion, I really like it. Would I double the yarn for the Colorful Wedges Blanket as one does for the Chevron Blanket?
Do you think it will be sturdy enough?
Now I have to figure out what to make for this little one with the two skeins of Mulberry Merino Heirloom White that can’t be returned…any thoughts?
Thanks again, Kristy. I will be writing back when I have a better sense of my stitches per inch.
Best,
Mary
Hi Mary,
You wouldn’t need to double the yarn unless you wanted the blanket to be a bit thicker! Maybe the most useful first step would be for you to knit up a small swatch of garter stitch (with a single strand) just to see how you like the look and feel of it, and then maybe try a swatch with the yarn doubled to compare. The pattern is quite easy to adapt to a large variety of yarns and gauges and the thickness you choose will very much be a matter of your personal preference and seeing which you like best. Please let us know the gauge of whatever you decide and we can help make any needed adjustments or calculations!
One project you might consider for your extra skeins of Mulberry Merino would be our Herringbone Hat, which uses 1 skein of yarn and comes in a variety of sizes. I hope this helps! Good luck and thanks for writing!
Kristy
I finished the blanket and it is beautiful! I would love to knit a scarf with the yarn I have left, do you have a pattern suggestion that would use all the colors? Thank you!
Allison
Hi Allison,
Congratulations on finishing the blanket! A few projects that come to mind that you might consider and that might look very nice with the palette of the blanket would be our Just Triangle Entrelac Scarf (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2012/06/17/whits-knits-just-triangles-entrelac-scarf/) or working our Mistake Rib Scarf in blocks of color from the blanket. (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2014/11/17/mistake-rib-scarf-in-mulberry-merino/) I hope this helps provide a few ideas and wish you the best of luck! Thanks for writing in and sorry for the delay in responding!
Kristy
I LOVE this baby blanket. I need to learn how to do short rows and I have a friend who just had a baby so I will be making this blanket but before I start — wool, silk and a baby? Doesn’t sound too functional for a new mother to keep clean. I wanted to chose cotton but would that be too scratchy or heavy for the baby? Your thoughts?
Hi Joyce!
It’s understandable that when you see “wool & silk” you may not immediately think that it’s a good fit for babies, but the Mulberry Merino is actually quite heavenly — very soft, not heavy and it works up beautifully for this blanket. To launder, your friend won’t be able to throw the blanket in the machine or the dryer, but I’ve found that the size is definitely manageable enough to easily hand wash and hang up to dry. If that doesn’t sound doable, cotton is also a great choice — soft, not scratchy. It will have greater weight, but it will definitely still be suitable. Our Cotton Pure would be very pretty (https://www.purlsoho.com/yarn/knitting-crochet/cotton-pure.html). With a suggested needle size of 4-6 (vs. the 5-7 of the Mulberry Merino) you may need to work up a swatch of the cotton to see how closely you’re able to get to pattern’s gauge (once you know, we can help you make any needed adjustments!). I hope this helps and please let us know if you have any further questions — thanks for writing in with this one!
Kristy
If I want the blanket to be a bigger blanket, like a throw blanket on the bed, how would I adjust the cast on amount and stitch pattern?
Thanks
Hi Alicia,
To double the size of the blanket to 60 x 60 inches, you could cast on 300 stitches (instead of 150) and use 8 skeins of Heirloom White and 2 skeins each of Colors A, C, D, E, and F. For the first Row 2, you’ll work 294 stitches instead of 144, and then proceed as written in the pattern, turning short rows at the same intervals. I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any other questions! Thanks for writing!
Kristy
Why would you need 8 skeins of color B? If you’re doubling the pattern wouldn’t it be 4 skeins? I’m confused…..
Hi Marsha,
You will need eight skeins of heirloom white, which is the base color, in order to double the blanket. Thanks for writing in!
Best,
Adam
I think the one question that would answer all my confusion is: all the colors are joined on the right side, correct?
Hi Eve,
Yes, that is correct! Hope this helps and please let us know if you have any further questions — thanks for writing!
Kristy
Hi there, love love love this blanket, do you think there is a way to crochet it? Thanks!
Hi Jennie,
I’m sorry we don’t currently have a crocheted version of this pattern available! It is possible to work short rows in crochet (a useful tutorial can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dOmXzgvmGVA) and it’s definitely something we will keep in mind when planning future projects! Thanks for writing!
Kristy
Hello,
Do you recommend single or double cast-on?
Thank you!
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for writing in! For this lovely blanket we used the long tail cast on. Our tutorial for this cast on can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2006/09/29/long-tail-cast-on/
For most of our patterns, unless otherwise noted, we use the long tail cast on!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Wonderful, I’ve never seen that cast on before. Thank you!
Hi,
I’m having issues with gaps in between the wedges for the wrapped stitches. I’m using a marker which may aggravate the problem with stretching the wrapped stitch ( I only have the issue on the colored wedges since that’s where I’m using the marker.) Do you recommend I work the wrapped stitch with the knit or will blocking the blanket afterwards solve the issue? I’m using the recommended gauge and yarn so not sure if I’m doing something wrong or if I should expect a small gap. Thank you!
Hi Erin,
Thanks for writing, and I’m sorry to hear that you’ve been having issues with gaps. The small gaps you describe are completely normal! The lines of your wedges will not be perfectly flush simply because of how short rows are worked (in gradual steps). You don’t need to work the wraps with the wrapped stitches (and can just work these stitches as regular knit stitches). We have found that blocking will help smooth your stitches out and make any gaps less noticeable, and also just being mindful of your tension as you work over wrapped stitches helps — you want to just be sure that it’s not too loose. I hope this helps and please let us know if you have any further questions or concerns! Wishing you the best of luck with the blanket!
Kristy
Hello,
Just a quick question on the wording for wedge 2:
“Row 3: Knit to previous wrapped stitch, knit that stitch, then k4, wrp-t.”
The previous wrapped stitch occurred on what will be stitch 144 coming from this direction. When you say “knit that stitch”, do you mean literally, as in knit the wrapped stitch that is now one row below your stitches on your needles?
Thank you in advance! I look forward to starting this lovely pattern 🙂
Hi Rachael! You’re right on the money! Knitting a wrapped stitch means knitting the stitch WITH the wrap that is hanging below it. We have a helpful tutorial for knitting short rows which can be viewed here.
Thanks for your question!
Keith
I’m confused on wedge#2, am I starting wedge #2 on the same pointed end of wedge #1?
Hi Marsha,
Thanks for your question. You will be beginning row 2 on the thinnest side of wedge 1 (if that makes sense). Let me know if you have any other questions.
-Adam
Hi, I have a few questions. I’m trying to understand this pattern before I start. When doing wedge 1, I understand it all till the very last row where it says to knit 150 to end of row. At this point, I was thinking I was at the top of the wedge, which means there would only be a few stitches. I don’t understand where I would find 150 stitches to knit.
Secondly, when finishing, is each wedge suppose to be sown together? Or are they knitted together as you go?
Thank you
I just figured out the answer to my first question, so you can skip that one. But would still like to know how the wedges are joined.
Thank you
Hi Debi,
Thanks for writing in! This blanket is knit as one piece and therefore there is no need to join the wedges. Once you finish knitting one wedge, you will join the next color of yarn to your existing work and continue knitting. Additionally, you are using short rows to create the wedges so for every odd numbered wedge, you are knitting an asymmetrical piece and every even wedge squares off that asymmetry. If you look at the picture after the directions for Wedge 2, I think that you can get a better sense of how the wedges are build one on top of the other without binding off.
I hope that this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
Cassy
This was a fun and fast knit. It will now be my “go to” pattern for baby gifts. The pattern is beautifully written and the photos are perfect. I chose to use a variegated yarn for the colour wedges, complimented by a cream colour for the neutral wedges. I can’t wait to try out new colour ways.
Thank you so much for making this pattern (and many others) available. The next time I find myself in NYC, I will make it a priority to visit your store.
I’m considering this pattern but:
1. I would like to add a border. Think I could implement the different colored wedges into a border?
2. Because I don’t want to knit the entire project do you think it’s possible to have the colored wedges garter and thr cream in stockinette? That might add a little visual interest and texture
Hi Laura,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I can help with both of your questions!
1. You certainly could add a border here! I think that an attached i cord border could work really well. You could also incorporate the colors of the wedges by switching too them as you come to them on the border!
2. I am not sure how the blanket would come out with stockinette wedges alternating with garter wedges. The quality of how the fabric sits will change. The stockinette sections will roll on the wedges and will be taller given that garter is much more compact. I would suggest knitting up a little swatch to see if you like how this alternating texture comes out before committing to the larger project. If you do try it, we would love to know how it turns out!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I finally got started on this blanket — after having bought the yarn back in June! I’m finding the only way to identify the correct stitch to wrap (on the odd-numbered wedges) is to count and use a stitch marker. I don’t know how else I would know when to wrp-t. Is there a more practical way? Thanks for this beautiful pattern 🙂
Hi Romy,
Sometimes wrap and turns are difficult to spot. If a marker helps you, then this is totally viable. Thanks!
-Adam
Hi I would like to make this to hang on a wall. I would like to use a sturdier (and less expensive) material. Can you recommend an alternative that will hold its shape when hung on a wall? Thank you!
Hi Karen,
Thanks for writing us. Unfortunately, knitting is not a sturdy fabric, so your blanket will droop and stretch when hung. I suggest knitting this with a very wooly wool on a large gauge, say a worsted knit it on a US 13 or 15. You could then felt the blanket, which will both shrink it in size and give it structure. Hope this inspires you!
-Adam
I am knitting for a baby that we do not know the sex yet… I dont want to knit something with pink in it OR all blue like the other version…
I like the white as background, I like the pale artemsia and the oyster… what other color choices would you suggest that would be neutral
Hi Amanda,
I suggest Black Green, Green Turquoise and Storm Gray for a neutral baby blanket.
All the best,
Adam
So I’m working on the 2nd wedge. The first color is navy and the 2nd color is white. I’m noticing small holes where I would have done the wrpt. Is this the way it should be?
Hi Ann,
Thanks for writing us! You shouldn’t get getting holes where the wraps are. Maybe you wrapped incorrectly or didn’t wrap tight enough? If you still have large holes in the wr-t sections, I would consider picking up and knitting the wraps with the stitches. This should close up the hole.
All the best,
Adam
…just worked the last row. Yay! Now I’m trying to find a bind off that I like… Which bind off would you recommend? Thanks!
Hi Beth,
Thanks for writing in! For this and most projects, we use a basic bind off! Our tutorial can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/basic-bind-off/
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I feel like I am missing something, are the wedges knit as individual pieces and sewn together?
Hi Joan,
Thanks for writing in! The wedges are knit as one piece, each wedge building on the last and thusly there will be no need to sew them together at the end. At the end of wedge 1, you will cut Yarn A and then continue knitting on, beginning wedge 2 with Yarn B but knitting on the same stitches.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hello, I just had a quick question! I’m halfway through my first wedge and I think it’s looking great. Unfortunately, I realized on my wrap turns that I’m not knitting up to five stitches before the last wrapped stitch, I’m knitting up to four stitches instead. I realize this will give it more length which I actually think will be nice. My question is if you think I should start over. And if I were to continue, how would this change the math on the next wedge? Thanks!
Hi Jessica,
Thanks for the question! If you cast on 150, you might want to start over because 150 is not divisible by 4. This is important because if you short row every four stitches, you’ll end up with an odd amount of stitches after your very last short row. If you don’t want to start over, you can short row every four stitches and work the short rows until you end up with less than four stitches on your left needle. You can choose to wrap and turn at this point or you can just work until the end if it’s not too many stitches. For the next wedge, everything will be the same as the written pattern except you’ll knit one less stitch than directed.
Whichever method you choose just remember to stay consistent. Best of luck and let us know if you have any other questions!
-Adam
Can you purchase the yarn bundles?
Hi Meg,
Thanks for writing in! The yarn bundles for this project are no longer available and some of the colors are discontinued. You can certainly put together your own color way using the lovely colors of Mulberry Merino that we presently have available!
Best,
Cassy
Hi, I am knitting the blanket with the blues/greens in it and it’s looking beautiful. But I’m nervous about washing it and having the colors bleed into the white. How do you make sure this doesn’t happen?
Thank you!!
Hello Marcia,
Thank you for your question – bleeding yarn is an important thing to be aware of. We haven’t had any issues with our Mulberry Merino yarn bleeding so it shouldn’t be an issue. I know it is nerve racking with all of the white wedges. What I recommend is getting color catchers and putting a sheet in with your blanket when you block it. You can get Color Catchers at in big box store in the laundry section.
I hope this helps!
-Marilla
I hate to be dense, but o just don’t see how the triangles are connect to each other to make a stripe and to the other stripes. Do you see them all together at the end?
Thanks for your clarification. It’s so lovely. I’d love to make it.
Hello Jean,
Thank you for writing in! There is no seaming in the blanket, which is part of the beauty of it. The wedges are created using short rows so you are wrapping and turning to create the triangle shape. You then knit across the entire row with yarn A working your Wrap and Turns as you get to them. Then you are ready to start your next wedge with Color B. I hope this gives you some clarification. Please let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Also, in the last few rows of wedge two (which would be knitting the tip of the wedge), it says to wrap the fifth stitch from the end of the row and end with row two. Ending with row two would give you one row at the tip, and then it says on the next row to knit 150 to the end so that would give you a second row at the tip, and then it says to repeat the last row, which would finally give the tip three rows of stitches.
Then when I start the tip of wedge three (wedge one) , it says to knit to the end of the row, (which would give the tip one row of stitches) but then on the next row it says to only knit 144 stitches , so I wouldn’t be going over the tip of that wedge with any more rows, and that tip would only have one row of stitches as opposed to the other tip which had three rows of stitches. Aah, I am so confused! Thanks for reading my convoluted question!!
Hi Marcia,
Thanks for writing in! You are reading the pattern correctly. The white wedges have just a bit more thickness at the top to separate them from the next colored wedge. Continue on as written and it should look just like the pictures!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Could you make this blanket in a dk weight yarn? How much yarn would one need for the number of colours suggested? Want to use my huge stash of yarn. Susan
Hi Susan,
Thanks for writing in! Our Mulberry Merino comes in at around a Sport/DK weight. I think that you could easily use a DK weight yarn here without modifying the pattern at all. You’ll need about 91 yards of all of the colors except the Heirloom White, for which you’ll need 455 yards. I hope this helps!
Best,
Cassy
HI
How much does this cost to make?
Thanks for your help
Pam
Hi Pam,
Thanks for writing in! For this project you will need 8 skeins of of Mulberry Merino. It retails for $24 a skein for a total of $168. You will also need a US 5 24″ needle.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
When you say you don’t have to work the wraps, does that mean you don’t have to pick up the wraps?
Thank you
Ruth
Hi Ruth,
Thanks for writing in! That is correct! You will not be picking up the wraps and you work back across them!
Best,
Cassy
I think I may be having the same trouble as someone else who posted here – after wrapping on wedge 1, it looks like a gap, then four stitches, one of which is wrapped, then a gap, then four stitches, one of which is wrapped. Is that the way it is supposed to look or should I have five stitches between the wraps, and if so, why does it say for row 4 “Knit to five stitches before previous wrapped stitch, wrp-t”, because if you wrap and turn that first of five stitches, you have four between the gap. Hope I am making myself understood, I just don’t know if I am doing the first wedge corrects (four stitches between the gaps) or not.
One more thing, the first time you say to wrap, you knit to 144 (leaving 6 stitches) and then wrap and turn. For that ‘gap’ I have 5 stitches, but if you knit up to 5 stitches (row 4) and then wrap that 5th stitch, you have 4 stitches between the gap. I think that is why I am confused. Any help appreciated!
Hi Paula,
Thanks for writing in! For Wedge 1, you will be knitting to 6 stitches before the end, wrapping and turning the next stitch. This will mean that for this first wrap and turn, there will be a 5 stitch gap. In all subsequent wrap and turns, there will be a 4 stitch gap. With the exception of the very first wrap and turn, you’ll know you’re wrapping the correct stitch if there are 4 regular knit stitches between wrapped stitches.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Yes, thank you Cassy. I am almost finished the blanket and it is lovely. I so appreciate the folks at Purl Soho for providing this wonderful pattern for free.
Hi there! Love this pattern, and am wondering if it would work out to use the Blue Sky Alpacas Worsted Cotton with this pattern? If so, how much of that yarn would you suggest and what needle size would you recommend? Thank you so much for your help and advice!
Hi Danielle,
Thanks for writing in! The yarn that we used here is a DK weight and you will be using a Worsted Weight. This means that your blanket will be a bit larger but I think that it could be really lovely! You will need 1 skein of each of the contrast colors and just over 3 skeins of the main color (you may be able to get away with 3 but we used just over 450 yards and you may need the 4th skein to finish). I would suggest going up to a US 7 for your blanket but do be sure to knit a gauge swatch to make sure that you like the fabric at that needle size!
Best,
Cassy
I’m a beginner-ish knitter (mostly related to the math involved with adjusting a pattern). I’d like to make this blanket in the intended size (it doesn’t need to be exact, but it’s for a baby). I have 7 skeins of Super Soft Merino: https://www.purlsoho.com/super-soft-merino.html
How tricky do you think it would be to adjust the # of stitches necessary so I can use this bulkier weight yarn? Any idea what the required cast-on stitch count would be assuming the recommended size 11 needles?
Hi Cristina,
Thanks for writing in! Due to the nature of how this lovely blanket is made, reworking this project to use a much heavier yarn is quite a challenge. It would require a fair bit of trial and error and a good deal of math. At present, we do not have the resources to regauge this project but we will certainly keep your request in mind for the future.
With 7 skeins of of Super Soft Merino you could make a Super Easy Baby Blanket or if you fancy something a bit more challenging, you could try the Chevron Baby Blanket.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy