Colorful Wedges Baby Blanket
Our Colorful Wedges Baby Blanket embraces the simplicity of garter stitch and throws in the diversion of simple short rows. It’s a wonderful project for dispelling any notions that short rows are difficult, and by the time your blanket is finished, you’ll be a short row pro (if you aren’t one already)!
Our soft and elegant Mulberry Merino works up beautifully in garter stitch and comes in a ton of stunning colors. If you’re like me, you’ll find yourself looking forward to each and every color change… A truly fun project all around!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Portable enough to take along on your summer trips, our Colorful Wedges Baby Blanket is knitting at its most stress-free and rewarding! Enjoy! -Kristy
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Kristina McGowan. Click here to see even more of Kristina’s designs!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoColorfulWedgesBabyBlanket. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
• 7 skeins of Purl Soho’s Mulberry Merino, 80% extra fine merino wool, and 20% mulberry silk approximately…
- Color A: 1 skein; approximately 91 yards required
- Color B: 2 skeins; approximately 455 yards required
- Color C: 1 skein; approximately 91 yards required
- Color D: 1 skein; approximately 91 yards required
- Color E: 1 skein; approximately 91 yards required
- Color F: 1 skein; approximately 91 yards required
You’ll also need…
• US 5 (3.75 mm), 24-inch circular needles
Pink Sunrise
Shown from the bottom to the top…
Yarn A: 1 skein of Purl Soho’s Mulberry Merino in Ochre Yellow
Yarn B: 2 skeins of Mulberry Merino in Heirloom White
Yarn C: 1 skein of Mulberry Merino in Pink Grapefruit
Yarn D: 1 skein of Mulberry Merino in Super Pink
Yarn E: 1 skein of Mulberry Merino in Oyster Gray
Yarn F: 1 skein of Mulberry Merino in Artemisia Green
Blue Sky
Shown from the bottom to the top…
Yarn A: 1 skein of Purl Soho’s Mulberry Merino in Black Green
Yarn B: 2 skeins of Mulberry Merino in Heirloom White
Yarn C: 1 skein of Mulberry Merino in Green Turquoise
Yarn D: 1 skein of Mulberry Merino in Peacock Blue
Yarn E: 1 skein of Mulberry Merino in Artemisia Green
Yarn F: 1 skein of Mulberry Merino in Oyster Gray
Gauge
20 stitches and 40 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch
Size
Finished Dimensions: Approximately 30 inches wide x 30 inches long
Notes
Wrp-t: Keeping the yarn in back, slip the next stitch purlwise from the left needle to the right needle. Bring the yarn to the front. Return the slipped stitch to the left needle. Turn the work.
Working wrapped stitches: In this pattern, you do not need to work the wraps with the wrapped stitches. Just knit the wrapped stitches as regular knit stitches.
Pattern
Wedge 1
With Color A, cast on 150 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): K144, wrp-t (see Notes, above).
Row 3: Knit to end of row.
Row 4: Knit to five stitches before previous wrapped stitch, wrp-t. (Note: You’ll know you’re wrapping the correct stitch if there are 4 regular knit stitches between wrapped stitches.)
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until you wrap the fifth stitch from the beginning, and end with Row 3.
Next Row (wrong side): K150 to end of row (see Notes, above).
Cut Yarn A.
Wedge 2
Row 1 (right side): With Yarn B, K5, wrp-t.
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Row 3: Knit to previous wrapped stitch, knit that stitch, then k4, wrp-t.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until you have wrapped the fifth stitch from the end of the row, and end with Row 2.
Next Row (right side): K150 to end of row.
Next Row (wrong side): Repeat the last row.
Cut Yarn B.
Wedges 3 – 10
With Yarn C, repeat Wedge 1.
With Yarn B, repeat Wedge 2.
With Yarn D, repeat Wedge 1.
With Yarn B, repeat Wedge 2.
With Yarn E, repeat Wedge 1.
With Yarn B, repeat Wedge 2.
With Yarn F, repeat Wedge 1.
With Yarn B, repeat Wedge 2, ending one row before the last row.
Bind off all stitches.
Finish
Weave in ends and block as desired.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Hi,
Approximately how many yards of each color is needed for this blanket?
Thanks,
Gail
Hi Gail,
You’ll need about 91 yards of all of the colors except the Heirloom White, for which you’ll need 455 yards. I hope this helps! Thanks for writing in!
Kristy
Hi,
What does the -t mean in wrap-t?
Thanks
Hi Dale,
The “t” stands for “turn,” so you’ll wrap the stitch and then turn your work. A useful tutorial on the process of working short rows can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/06/18/short-rows/. I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any further questions and thanks for writing in!
Kristy
I wish the tutorial showed two colors. Would that be possible?
Hi Sheri,
We don’t currently have a short row tutorial in which we use two colors, but I’m hoping that this video clip might help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rFaxEY-gf5s. It also shows the short rows being worked in garter stitch in two colors.
Best,
Kristy
Thank you, Kristy. I watched both videos you have posted here. I’m going to figure it out! My thinking is…please correct me if I’m wrong, and I apologize for such newbie questions…we use color A, make a wedge using the wrp-t method, then using color B, we pick up the stitches and complete the wedge block. Continuing in this pattern?
Hi Sheri!
No apologies! It’s great that you wrote! You will cast on with Color A and, using short rows as instructed, will complete Wedge 1. You’ll then switch to Color B and again, using short rows (this time in the opposite direction), will create Wedge 2. You’ll then simply repeat Wedges 1 and Wedge 2, using a different color each time for Wedge 1 (Colors C, D, E & F). I hope this helps clarify and please don’t hesitate to ask any further questions you may have! Best of luck,
Kristy
I’ve just completed my first set of wedges. I LOVE IT! Thank you for your help. (Oh I also wanted it larger so I castes on 75 extra stitches. It used up my skein of yarn nearly perfectly. )
How did you figure out how many extra to do. Or is there not a “repeat” to worry about. Thank you!!?
Hello Deborah,
Thanks for writing in! To modify this blanket to make it larger you can cast on any amount of stitches so long as it is divisible by 5. This is because of where the wrap and turns are placed to create the wedges.
I hope this helps!
-Marilla
Sorry for another newbie comment. If I’m understanding correctly, you only work with one color at a time making a really skinny wedge, then whip stitch join a second contrasting color skinny wedge onto the first color to make the wedge shown with 2 colors? Or do you somehow work knit with the 2 colors at the same time? thanks.
Hi Barbara,
No need to apologize I’m happy to help! You will never knit two colors at the same time. Because you are using short rows all your stitches will remain live as you are creating your wedge. When you have finished creating your first wedge you will knit back across all 115 stitches with yarn A working wrapped stitches as you come to them. After you have done this you will start working the second wedge with yarn B.
For more clarification on short rows here is a helpful tutorial;
Please let me know if you have any further questions.
Warmly,
Marilla
Hello! I’m loving knitting this blanket for my grandson!
I’ve only almost completed my first wedge. I’m on the step where you’re supposed to wrap the 5th stitch from the beginning. The problem I’m having is the numbers aren’t working out. My final wrap for this wedge is at the 7th stitch from the beginning. (I must’ve miscounted earlier.)
Do you think I can just continue on without trying to fix it and just complete the wedge by knitting 150 stitches? Or will it show?
Thanks so much!
Hi Linda,
Thank you for writing in! I’m sorry you are running into issues on this wedge. I think you might notice just the slightest bit of difference but blocking your finished blanket could really help correct the mistake visually.
All the best,
Gavriella
Thank you!
your pattern would make a lovely scarf. hope you have one for us, soon. it would be great for my park ranger daughter…..
Hi Jo,
Thanks for the suggestion! We’ll be sure to keep it in mind! Thanks for writing!
Kristy
What’s the finished size? Might be a beautiful lap throw for grown-ups!
Hi Jennifer,
The finished size is 30 inches x 30 inches! Thanks for writing!
Kristy
I am always concerned about making good-looking edges … Do you recommend knitting the first and last stitches of every row for this blanket? Or slipping the first? Or some other kind of selvedge?
Thank you,
Pat M. in southern Oregon
Hi Pat,
For our sample, I knit the first and last stitch of every row, but you could certainly slip the first stitch of every row and that should also provide a nice, clean edge. Perhaps knitting up a small swatch just to see which method you prefer might be the most helpful. Good luck, and thanks for writing in!
Kristy
Every single project I’ve made from PS has been a treat. I can hardly wait to make this one. I actually like working short rows :=)
This is going right in my queue for the next baby that comes along!
Please make a pattern for this in a regular throw size!
Hi Shelly, Ellen and Tracey!
To make the blanket larger, you could try casting on 300 stitches instead of 150. For Row 2 of Wedge 1, you will K294, wrt-t (instead of K144, wrp-t), and you will K300 instead of K150 in subsequent rows. The rest of the pattern will be followed as written. Please let us know if you have any questions along the way. This will give you a finished measurement of 60 inches x 60 inches, and you will need 2 skeins each of Colors A, C, D, E and F and 8 skeins of Color B. Thanks for writing in and for your interest in the pattern!
Kristy
Thanks so much – you answered my question before I asked it. Love this blanket – and all your projects!
Beautiful and fun.
Any suggestions for making the blanket larger than crib size??
Hi!
I’m contemplating making this in a bedspread size…any tips for scaling it up?
Would this work in Kersti Merino Crepe, like the Super Easy Baby Blanket?
Thanks!
Hi Amy,
The Kersti Merino Crepe should work well for this blanket! It does have a suggested needle size that is slightly bigger than the one we used (the Kersti suggests using a 6 and we used a 5 for our blanket), and it might be useful for you to knit up a swatch in garter stitch with the recommended needle size (6) just to check your gauge. Your final blanket measurements may be slightly larger than our sample. But the blanket would be beautiful in this yarn as well. Please us know if you have any further questions and thanks for writing with this one!
Kristy
Is there a way to adapt this with a thicker yarn (Worsted Twist) in order to work it up more quickly?
Hi Rena,
The pattern would also work well in the Worsted Twist! And although we don’t currently have instructions available for a heavier weight (and are therefore unavailable to provide information on the specific quantities of yarn you’d need) it is definitely something we will keep in mind to do in the future. We appreciate your interest in the pattern — thanks for writing in!
Kristy
Hello, I’m a fairly new knitter, would this be an easy knit or more advanced? I really don’t want to start something that’s not achievable
Hi Joyce,
Creating the blanket in garter stitch (knitting every row) definitely makes the project beginner friendly. The only aspect that might be considered more intermediate would be creating the short rows. But you shouldn’t let this discourage you, because short rows are really not as tricky to work as they may seem! We have a tutorial to show you each step of the way (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/06/18/short-rows/) and when working in garter stitch, you will only need to wrap and turn the stitches (and not subsequently have to work the wraps) which makes the process even easier. We are here to help answer any questions that you may have along the way! Best of luck to you and thanks for writing!
Kristy
If I wanted to knit this in cotton, what would you recommend?
Hi Margaret,
You could try Blue Sky’s Skinny Cotton: https://www.purlsoho.com/yarn/knitting-crochet/skinny-cotton.html or Cascade’s Ultra Pima Cotton: https://www.purlsoho.com/yarn/knitting-crochet/ultra-pima.html. Both yarns should work well! For the Ultra Pima you would need 1 skein each of Colors A, C, D, E and F and 3 skeins of Color B. For Blue Sky’s Skinny Cotton, you would need 1 skein of Colors A, C, D, E, and F and 3 skeins of Color B. I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any further questions!
Kristy
Hello,
Could you post a video of the technique for Wedge No. 2? The short rows seemed to be worked as “needing over them” as opposed to leaving them unworked until the end when we knit the all the stitches. I hope I was able to express my confusion.
Regards
Hi Wren,
I’m sorry that we don’t have a video to post, but to work Wedge 2, you will begin on the right side of your work, and with Yarn B will knit 5 stitches and then wrap and turn the next stitch. On the next row (Row 2), you will knit to the end of the row. On Row 3, you will knit to the previously wrapped stitch, you will knit that stitch, then knit 4 stitches, and wrap and turn. You will then repeat Rows 2 and 3 until you have wrapped the fifth stitch from the end of the row, ending with Row 2. On the next Row (which will be on the right side), you will knit 150 stitches to the end of the row. To complete Wedge 2, you will then repeat the last row and knit 150 stitches to the end. Please let us know if this helps clarify! Best of luck and thanks for writing in!
Kristy
Just started the pattern, finished Wedge #1, began Wedge #2 and just realized wedge 2 is getting larger than wedge #1. I think I was expecting the last 5 sts to be all the way at the end of the row (other side of the blanket). I think my wedge #1 is 12 or 14 ridges. I am assuming all the wedges would be the same size. What am I missing? Thanks for your help. This is going to be lovely, I am using the Sirdar Baby Bamboo.
Hi Mary,
Thanks for writing, and yes! All of the wedges should be the same size. I’m not sure why your second wedge would be getting larger than your first. You will be working your short rows the same distance for both Wedges 1 and 2. Is this what you’ve been doing? They are worked the same way, just in different directions (if that makes sense!), and the length of each wedge (at the highest side) should be about 6 inches. I hope this helps, and wish I could help more! Please let us know if you have any further questions!
Kristy
Just realized what I was doing wrong. Am I correct that each wedge would be 30 garter stitch ridges?
Hi Mary,
This is great to hear! Each wedge should be about 6 inches at the highest point. Hope this helps!
Kristy
In the note section where it says ‘working the wrapped stitches’, if you were to work the wrapped stitches(even though it instructs not to) it would increase the total number of stitches in that row?
Hi Kate,
Thanks for writing! When you work the wrapped stitches it will not increase your total number of stitches as you will work the wrap and the stitch it was wrapping together. Your stitch count will stay the same. A useful photo tutorial of how the process works can be found here (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/06/18/short-rows/). I hope this helps clarify and we welcome any further questions you may have!
Kristy
Dear Kristina,
I was wondering if you could help me – I am about to embark on a baby blanket (yea!) and really like the look and feel of Colorful Wedges. However the colors of Mulberry Merino are difficult –
I would like a pathway that is “gender neutral” and colors that are softer and more infant-ish (as in the Chevron baby blanket.)
One is wool/silk, the other cotton…which do you think is better?
And could you possibly give me a suggestion for a softer, neutral pathway using Mulberry Merino or perhaps another yarn?
Or maybe I should just make the Chevron blanket…
Thank you so much for your help!
Mary –
Hi Mary,
Thanks for writing! One idea that comes to mind would be to use the colorway that you like from the Chevron Baby Blanket and use it to make the Colorful Wedges Blanket. The gauges of the two yarns are different and to make the substitution, you’ll have to knit up a small swatch in the cotton and see how many stitches you are getting to the inch and adjust accordingly (if you let us know your numbers we would be glad to help you with that), but the Colorful Wedges would be beautiful in cotton! You could consider the “Dandelion” colorway of the Chevron Blanket, using Tulip as Yarn B, and Lemongrass, Lemonade, Bone, Drift and Sleet for the remaining colors. You’ll need about 3 skeins of Tulip and 1 skein each of the rest. I hope this helps! It’s very exciting to be embarking on the blanket — best of luck and please let us know if you have any additional questions!
Kristy
Dear Kristy,
Thank you so much for your suggestion, I really like it. Would I double the yarn for the Colorful Wedges Blanket as one does for the Chevron Blanket?
Do you think it will be sturdy enough?
Now I have to figure out what to make for this little one with the two skeins of Mulberry Merino Heirloom White that can’t be returned…any thoughts?
Thanks again, Kristy. I will be writing back when I have a better sense of my stitches per inch.
Best,
Mary
Hi Mary,
You wouldn’t need to double the yarn unless you wanted the blanket to be a bit thicker! Maybe the most useful first step would be for you to knit up a small swatch of garter stitch (with a single strand) just to see how you like the look and feel of it, and then maybe try a swatch with the yarn doubled to compare. The pattern is quite easy to adapt to a large variety of yarns and gauges and the thickness you choose will very much be a matter of your personal preference and seeing which you like best. Please let us know the gauge of whatever you decide and we can help make any needed adjustments or calculations!
One project you might consider for your extra skeins of Mulberry Merino would be our Herringbone Hat, which uses 1 skein of yarn and comes in a variety of sizes. I hope this helps! Good luck and thanks for writing!
Kristy
I finished the blanket and it is beautiful! I would love to knit a scarf with the yarn I have left, do you have a pattern suggestion that would use all the colors? Thank you!
Allison
Hi Allison,
Congratulations on finishing the blanket! A few projects that come to mind that you might consider and that might look very nice with the palette of the blanket would be our Just Triangle Entrelac Scarf (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2012/06/17/whits-knits-just-triangles-entrelac-scarf/) or working our Mistake Rib Scarf in blocks of color from the blanket. (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2014/11/17/mistake-rib-scarf-in-mulberry-merino/) I hope this helps provide a few ideas and wish you the best of luck! Thanks for writing in and sorry for the delay in responding!
Kristy
I LOVE this baby blanket. I need to learn how to do short rows and I have a friend who just had a baby so I will be making this blanket but before I start — wool, silk and a baby? Doesn’t sound too functional for a new mother to keep clean. I wanted to chose cotton but would that be too scratchy or heavy for the baby? Your thoughts?
Hi Joyce!
It’s understandable that when you see “wool & silk” you may not immediately think that it’s a good fit for babies, but the Mulberry Merino is actually quite heavenly — very soft, not heavy and it works up beautifully for this blanket. To launder, your friend won’t be able to throw the blanket in the machine or the dryer, but I’ve found that the size is definitely manageable enough to easily hand wash and hang up to dry. If that doesn’t sound doable, cotton is also a great choice — soft, not scratchy. It will have greater weight, but it will definitely still be suitable. Our Cotton Pure would be very pretty (https://www.purlsoho.com/yarn/knitting-crochet/cotton-pure.html). With a suggested needle size of 4-6 (vs. the 5-7 of the Mulberry Merino) you may need to work up a swatch of the cotton to see how closely you’re able to get to pattern’s gauge (once you know, we can help you make any needed adjustments!). I hope this helps and please let us know if you have any further questions — thanks for writing in with this one!
Kristy
If I want the blanket to be a bigger blanket, like a throw blanket on the bed, how would I adjust the cast on amount and stitch pattern?
Thanks
Hi Alicia,
To double the size of the blanket to 60 x 60 inches, you could cast on 300 stitches (instead of 150) and use 8 skeins of Heirloom White and 2 skeins each of Colors A, C, D, E, and F. For the first Row 2, you’ll work 294 stitches instead of 144, and then proceed as written in the pattern, turning short rows at the same intervals. I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any other questions! Thanks for writing!
Kristy
Why would you need 8 skeins of color B? If you’re doubling the pattern wouldn’t it be 4 skeins? I’m confused…..
Hi Marsha,
You will need eight skeins of heirloom white, which is the base color, in order to double the blanket. Thanks for writing in!
Best,
Adam
I think the one question that would answer all my confusion is: all the colors are joined on the right side, correct?
Hi Eve,
Yes, that is correct! Hope this helps and please let us know if you have any further questions — thanks for writing!
Kristy
Hi there, love love love this blanket, do you think there is a way to crochet it? Thanks!
Hi Jennie,
I’m sorry we don’t currently have a crocheted version of this pattern available! It is possible to work short rows in crochet (a useful tutorial can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dOmXzgvmGVA) and it’s definitely something we will keep in mind when planning future projects! Thanks for writing!
Kristy
Hello,
Do you recommend single or double cast-on?
Thank you!
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for writing in! For this lovely blanket we used the long tail cast on. Our tutorial for this cast on can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2006/09/29/long-tail-cast-on/
For most of our patterns, unless otherwise noted, we use the long tail cast on!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Wonderful, I’ve never seen that cast on before. Thank you!
Hi,
I’m having issues with gaps in between the wedges for the wrapped stitches. I’m using a marker which may aggravate the problem with stretching the wrapped stitch ( I only have the issue on the colored wedges since that’s where I’m using the marker.) Do you recommend I work the wrapped stitch with the knit or will blocking the blanket afterwards solve the issue? I’m using the recommended gauge and yarn so not sure if I’m doing something wrong or if I should expect a small gap. Thank you!
Hi Erin,
Thanks for writing, and I’m sorry to hear that you’ve been having issues with gaps. The small gaps you describe are completely normal! The lines of your wedges will not be perfectly flush simply because of how short rows are worked (in gradual steps). You don’t need to work the wraps with the wrapped stitches (and can just work these stitches as regular knit stitches). We have found that blocking will help smooth your stitches out and make any gaps less noticeable, and also just being mindful of your tension as you work over wrapped stitches helps — you want to just be sure that it’s not too loose. I hope this helps and please let us know if you have any further questions or concerns! Wishing you the best of luck with the blanket!
Kristy
Hello,
Just a quick question on the wording for wedge 2:
“Row 3: Knit to previous wrapped stitch, knit that stitch, then k4, wrp-t.”
The previous wrapped stitch occurred on what will be stitch 144 coming from this direction. When you say “knit that stitch”, do you mean literally, as in knit the wrapped stitch that is now one row below your stitches on your needles?
Thank you in advance! I look forward to starting this lovely pattern 🙂
Hi Rachael! You’re right on the money! Knitting a wrapped stitch means knitting the stitch WITH the wrap that is hanging below it. We have a helpful tutorial for knitting short rows which can be viewed here.
Thanks for your question!
Keith
I’m confused on wedge#2, am I starting wedge #2 on the same pointed end of wedge #1?
Hi Marsha,
Thanks for your question. You will be beginning row 2 on the thinnest side of wedge 1 (if that makes sense). Let me know if you have any other questions.
-Adam
Hi, I have a few questions. I’m trying to understand this pattern before I start. When doing wedge 1, I understand it all till the very last row where it says to knit 150 to end of row. At this point, I was thinking I was at the top of the wedge, which means there would only be a few stitches. I don’t understand where I would find 150 stitches to knit.
Secondly, when finishing, is each wedge suppose to be sown together? Or are they knitted together as you go?
Thank you
I just figured out the answer to my first question, so you can skip that one. But would still like to know how the wedges are joined.
Thank you
Hi Debi,
Thanks for writing in! This blanket is knit as one piece and therefore there is no need to join the wedges. Once you finish knitting one wedge, you will join the next color of yarn to your existing work and continue knitting. Additionally, you are using short rows to create the wedges so for every odd numbered wedge, you are knitting an asymmetrical piece and every even wedge squares off that asymmetry. If you look at the picture after the directions for Wedge 2, I think that you can get a better sense of how the wedges are build one on top of the other without binding off.
I hope that this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
Cassy
This was a fun and fast knit. It will now be my “go to” pattern for baby gifts. The pattern is beautifully written and the photos are perfect. I chose to use a variegated yarn for the colour wedges, complimented by a cream colour for the neutral wedges. I can’t wait to try out new colour ways.
Thank you so much for making this pattern (and many others) available. The next time I find myself in NYC, I will make it a priority to visit your store.
I’m considering this pattern but:
1. I would like to add a border. Think I could implement the different colored wedges into a border?
2. Because I don’t want to knit the entire project do you think it’s possible to have the colored wedges garter and thr cream in stockinette? That might add a little visual interest and texture
Hi Laura,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I can help with both of your questions!
1. You certainly could add a border here! I think that an attached i cord border could work really well. You could also incorporate the colors of the wedges by switching too them as you come to them on the border!
2. I am not sure how the blanket would come out with stockinette wedges alternating with garter wedges. The quality of how the fabric sits will change. The stockinette sections will roll on the wedges and will be taller given that garter is much more compact. I would suggest knitting up a little swatch to see if you like how this alternating texture comes out before committing to the larger project. If you do try it, we would love to know how it turns out!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I finally got started on this blanket — after having bought the yarn back in June! I’m finding the only way to identify the correct stitch to wrap (on the odd-numbered wedges) is to count and use a stitch marker. I don’t know how else I would know when to wrp-t. Is there a more practical way? Thanks for this beautiful pattern 🙂
Hi Romy,
Sometimes wrap and turns are difficult to spot. If a marker helps you, then this is totally viable. Thanks!
-Adam
Hi I would like to make this to hang on a wall. I would like to use a sturdier (and less expensive) material. Can you recommend an alternative that will hold its shape when hung on a wall? Thank you!
Hi Karen,
Thanks for writing us. Unfortunately, knitting is not a sturdy fabric, so your blanket will droop and stretch when hung. I suggest knitting this with a very wooly wool on a large gauge, say a worsted knit it on a US 13 or 15. You could then felt the blanket, which will both shrink it in size and give it structure. Hope this inspires you!
-Adam
I am knitting for a baby that we do not know the sex yet… I dont want to knit something with pink in it OR all blue like the other version…
I like the white as background, I like the pale artemsia and the oyster… what other color choices would you suggest that would be neutral
Hi Amanda,
I suggest Black Green, Green Turquoise and Storm Gray for a neutral baby blanket.
All the best,
Adam
So I’m working on the 2nd wedge. The first color is navy and the 2nd color is white. I’m noticing small holes where I would have done the wrpt. Is this the way it should be?
Hi Ann,
Thanks for writing us! You shouldn’t get getting holes where the wraps are. Maybe you wrapped incorrectly or didn’t wrap tight enough? If you still have large holes in the wr-t sections, I would consider picking up and knitting the wraps with the stitches. This should close up the hole.
All the best,
Adam
…just worked the last row. Yay! Now I’m trying to find a bind off that I like… Which bind off would you recommend? Thanks!
Hi Beth,
Thanks for writing in! For this and most projects, we use a basic bind off! Our tutorial can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/basic-bind-off/
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I feel like I am missing something, are the wedges knit as individual pieces and sewn together?
Hi Joan,
Thanks for writing in! The wedges are knit as one piece, each wedge building on the last and thusly there will be no need to sew them together at the end. At the end of wedge 1, you will cut Yarn A and then continue knitting on, beginning wedge 2 with Yarn B but knitting on the same stitches.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hello, I just had a quick question! I’m halfway through my first wedge and I think it’s looking great. Unfortunately, I realized on my wrap turns that I’m not knitting up to five stitches before the last wrapped stitch, I’m knitting up to four stitches instead. I realize this will give it more length which I actually think will be nice. My question is if you think I should start over. And if I were to continue, how would this change the math on the next wedge? Thanks!
Hi Jessica,
Thanks for the question! If you cast on 150, you might want to start over because 150 is not divisible by 4. This is important because if you short row every four stitches, you’ll end up with an odd amount of stitches after your very last short row. If you don’t want to start over, you can short row every four stitches and work the short rows until you end up with less than four stitches on your left needle. You can choose to wrap and turn at this point or you can just work until the end if it’s not too many stitches. For the next wedge, everything will be the same as the written pattern except you’ll knit one less stitch than directed.
Whichever method you choose just remember to stay consistent. Best of luck and let us know if you have any other questions!
-Adam
Can you purchase the yarn bundles?
Hi Meg,
Thanks for writing in! The yarn bundles for this project are no longer available and some of the colors are discontinued. You can certainly put together your own color way using the lovely colors of Mulberry Merino that we presently have available!
Best,
Cassy
Hi, I am knitting the blanket with the blues/greens in it and it’s looking beautiful. But I’m nervous about washing it and having the colors bleed into the white. How do you make sure this doesn’t happen?
Thank you!!
Hello Marcia,
Thank you for your question – bleeding yarn is an important thing to be aware of. We haven’t had any issues with our Mulberry Merino yarn bleeding so it shouldn’t be an issue. I know it is nerve racking with all of the white wedges. What I recommend is getting color catchers and putting a sheet in with your blanket when you block it. You can get Color Catchers at in big box store in the laundry section.
I hope this helps!
-Marilla
I hate to be dense, but o just don’t see how the triangles are connect to each other to make a stripe and to the other stripes. Do you see them all together at the end?
Thanks for your clarification. It’s so lovely. I’d love to make it.
Hello Jean,
Thank you for writing in! There is no seaming in the blanket, which is part of the beauty of it. The wedges are created using short rows so you are wrapping and turning to create the triangle shape. You then knit across the entire row with yarn A working your Wrap and Turns as you get to them. Then you are ready to start your next wedge with Color B. I hope this gives you some clarification. Please let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Also, in the last few rows of wedge two (which would be knitting the tip of the wedge), it says to wrap the fifth stitch from the end of the row and end with row two. Ending with row two would give you one row at the tip, and then it says on the next row to knit 150 to the end so that would give you a second row at the tip, and then it says to repeat the last row, which would finally give the tip three rows of stitches.
Then when I start the tip of wedge three (wedge one) , it says to knit to the end of the row, (which would give the tip one row of stitches) but then on the next row it says to only knit 144 stitches , so I wouldn’t be going over the tip of that wedge with any more rows, and that tip would only have one row of stitches as opposed to the other tip which had three rows of stitches. Aah, I am so confused! Thanks for reading my convoluted question!!
Hi Marcia,
Thanks for writing in! You are reading the pattern correctly. The white wedges have just a bit more thickness at the top to separate them from the next colored wedge. Continue on as written and it should look just like the pictures!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Could you make this blanket in a dk weight yarn? How much yarn would one need for the number of colours suggested? Want to use my huge stash of yarn. Susan
Hi Susan,
Thanks for writing in! Our Mulberry Merino comes in at around a Sport/DK weight. I think that you could easily use a DK weight yarn here without modifying the pattern at all. You’ll need about 91 yards of all of the colors except the Heirloom White, for which you’ll need 455 yards. I hope this helps!
Best,
Cassy
HI
How much does this cost to make?
Thanks for your help
Pam
Hi Pam,
Thanks for writing in! For this project you will need 8 skeins of of Mulberry Merino. It retails for $24 a skein for a total of $168. You will also need a US 5 24″ needle.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
When you say you don’t have to work the wraps, does that mean you don’t have to pick up the wraps?
Thank you
Ruth
Hi Ruth,
Thanks for writing in! That is correct! You will not be picking up the wraps and you work back across them!
Best,
Cassy
I think I may be having the same trouble as someone else who posted here – after wrapping on wedge 1, it looks like a gap, then four stitches, one of which is wrapped, then a gap, then four stitches, one of which is wrapped. Is that the way it is supposed to look or should I have five stitches between the wraps, and if so, why does it say for row 4 “Knit to five stitches before previous wrapped stitch, wrp-t”, because if you wrap and turn that first of five stitches, you have four between the gap. Hope I am making myself understood, I just don’t know if I am doing the first wedge corrects (four stitches between the gaps) or not.
One more thing, the first time you say to wrap, you knit to 144 (leaving 6 stitches) and then wrap and turn. For that ‘gap’ I have 5 stitches, but if you knit up to 5 stitches (row 4) and then wrap that 5th stitch, you have 4 stitches between the gap. I think that is why I am confused. Any help appreciated!
Hi Paula,
Thanks for writing in! For Wedge 1, you will be knitting to 6 stitches before the end, wrapping and turning the next stitch. This will mean that for this first wrap and turn, there will be a 5 stitch gap. In all subsequent wrap and turns, there will be a 4 stitch gap. With the exception of the very first wrap and turn, you’ll know you’re wrapping the correct stitch if there are 4 regular knit stitches between wrapped stitches.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Yes, thank you Cassy. I am almost finished the blanket and it is lovely. I so appreciate the folks at Purl Soho for providing this wonderful pattern for free.
Hi there! Love this pattern, and am wondering if it would work out to use the Blue Sky Alpacas Worsted Cotton with this pattern? If so, how much of that yarn would you suggest and what needle size would you recommend? Thank you so much for your help and advice!
Hi Danielle,
Thanks for writing in! The yarn that we used here is a DK weight and you will be using a Worsted Weight. This means that your blanket will be a bit larger but I think that it could be really lovely! You will need 1 skein of each of the contrast colors and just over 3 skeins of the main color (you may be able to get away with 3 but we used just over 450 yards and you may need the 4th skein to finish). I would suggest going up to a US 7 for your blanket but do be sure to knit a gauge swatch to make sure that you like the fabric at that needle size!
Best,
Cassy
I’m a beginner-ish knitter (mostly related to the math involved with adjusting a pattern). I’d like to make this blanket in the intended size (it doesn’t need to be exact, but it’s for a baby). I have 7 skeins of Super Soft Merino: https://www.purlsoho.com/super-soft-merino.html
How tricky do you think it would be to adjust the # of stitches necessary so I can use this bulkier weight yarn? Any idea what the required cast-on stitch count would be assuming the recommended size 11 needles?
Hi Cristina,
Thanks for writing in! Due to the nature of how this lovely blanket is made, reworking this project to use a much heavier yarn is quite a challenge. It would require a fair bit of trial and error and a good deal of math. At present, we do not have the resources to regauge this project but we will certainly keep your request in mind for the future.
With 7 skeins of of Super Soft Merino you could make a Super Easy Baby Blanket or if you fancy something a bit more challenging, you could try the Chevron Baby Blanket.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I want to knit this baby blanket using the Kersti Merino Crepe (more colors to choose from). How many skeins of each color will I need using the Kersti? (As the yardage differs from the yarn used in your sample.) Thanks for your assistance.
Hi Lee,
Thanks for writing in! I think that this blanket would be lovely using Kersti! For each of the contrast colors, you will need 1 skein and for the main color you will need 4 or 5 depending on your gauge!
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Thank you for the information. I’m still wondering how that works out, because the suggested yarn in your sample has quite a bit more yardage per skein than the Kersti. Can you please clarify? Thanks.
Hi Lee,
Thanks for writing back! In the original yarn, we use less than half a skein of each of the contrast colors. I find that it helps to see that for the 5 color stripes, we only use 2 skeins of the main color. If you were making the blanket in the original yarn, you could purchase 2 additional skeins of the main color and make 2 blankets!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Yes, that answers my question. Thank you for your help.
I’m interested in scaling this up to a crib or throw blanket. Do you have any recommendations? Would the same techniques translate well to a bulkier yarn like the Supersoft Merino?
Hi Julia,
Thanks for writing in! Due to the nature of this pattern, the best way to scale it up, is to use a thicker yarn and larger needles. You can also always add additional wedges to increase the length! I think that the blanket would be lovely in a thicker yarn, just be sure to knit a gauge swatch to see which needles will make the most pleasing fabric! This will also give you an idea of how large the blanket will be. Once you know the number of stitches per inch that you are getting, you can divide the cast on number by your stitches per inch and that will tell you how wide the blanket will be at your gauge.
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Hi there. I too fell victim to wedge one being too big thus making the blanket lopsided. I did it realise until over half way through the Project I think this was caused by admitting only four stitches before turning instead of five giving me the 60 Rose required for the Coloured wedge. To remedy this I will knit another white wedge at the bottom of the blanket. My question is do you have any tutorials on how to pick up stitches on the Cast on Row. Or would you have another suggestion to square off the blanket. ? thank you.
Hello Deb,
Thank you for reaching out- what a great idea! You can follow the tutorial for picking up stitches along a horizontal edge.
I’m happy to hear you figured it out!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi, I love this pattern and am going to knit for my new grand-nephew, due in April. I’m going to use a different yarn than you used for your project, as I need something a little less expensive and that has a good amount of color choices (mainly blues/teals/greens -kind of an ombre effect). I am hoping you can give me some suggestions on your yarns that would work well with this pattern, be appropriate for a baby, and fits my needs listed above. Thank you very much for your assistance.
Hi Lee,
Thanks for writing in! I think that this blanket would be lovely using Manos Maxima. It has a wide range of blues and greens and it incredibly soft! I would recommend going up a needle size when using this yarn.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thank you for your reply. Much appreciated!
My Mum would like to knit this for my baby; we live in the UK – is it possible to buy this yarn in the UK? Would love to do it in the colours shown too as its so attractive. Thank you.
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! At present, our yarns are available exclusively through our NYC shop and on our website. We do ship internationally and ship to the UK regularly. More information regarding shipping can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/shipping/
For this lovely blanket, a number of the colors have since been retired. As an alternative I would suggest Turmeric Yellow, Persimmon Orange, Super Pink, Field Mouse and Oyster Gray with the Heirloom White as the background. This is a bit more of a bright color story but I do think that it would be lovely. We’d also be happy to help with an alternate colorway if you have colors that you would like to incorporate!
Best,
Cassy
I have knit this blanket twice,
I used Sublime baby cashmere merino silk, dk. Aside from the price of the wool (which at 10 balls is a bit insane) I know that these blankets will be treasured.
It knits up beautifully and I have had so many comments about how difficult it is, but it was very easy to make.
Thanks for creating and sharing such a beautiful project.
Cheryl
Hi! I made this blanket as a test/use up some old yarn project and it came out lopsided. I used a multicolored yarn for the left side wedges and a solid color yarn for the right side wedges. I assumed the lopsided-ness was from using the same weight but a different brand yarn. I am now making an official baby blanket, and I’m lopsided again. I am using all the same weight and color of yarn. I counted ridges and on both blankets, the left side wedges have more ridges than the right side wedges. Based on stitch count, there should be 60 rows or 30 ridges for each wedge. Only the right side wedges have the correct number of ridges. What am I doing wrong? I have 6-8 extra ridges on the left (colored) wedges.
I figured it out! I had to knit a smaller version of the blanket to see it, but I was counting the wrapped stitch on the colored wedges, so I had only 3 stitches between wrapped stitches. Not sure how I didn’t see that before, but knitting wedges 1 and 2 differently made it so that I counted correctly on wedge 2 but not wedge 1. So, onward!
Hi Denice,
So glad that it worked out!
Best,
Cassy
Do you have a baby hat pattern that incorporates this blanket design? If not, can you suggest a hat that would complement the design? I have enough yarn left for a hat and booties to go with the blanket. Turning out beautifully!
Hi Lee,
Thanks for writing in! Sadly, we do not have a matching hat for this blanket! We do have a number of hats that would work using Mulberry Merino! You could make:
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2018/01/24/four-spokes-hat/
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2017/10/13/top-down-ear-flap-hat/
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/03/09/whits-knits-rochefort-chapeau/
I think that any of these options would be lovely!
Cassy
I don’t know if I’m reading the pattern incorrectly or if there is a misprint. Wedge #1 is fine, but I’m confused with wedge #2. Row 1 (of wedge 2) is “k5, wrp-t” which in my interpretation means the wrp-t is on stitch #6. So following on, with the wrp-t every 5th stitch, the last wrp-t on this wedge would be on stitch #4 (and not stitch #5 as the pattern says). Please clarify. Much appreciated.
Hello Lee,
Thank you for reaching out! After knitting Row 1 “(right side): With Yarn B, K5, wrp-t.”, you will then knit Row 2 “Knit to end of row.” and Row 3 “Knit to previous wrapped stitch, knit that stitch, then k4, wrp-t.” you will then repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have wrapped the fifth stitch from the end of the row, and end with Row 2. This means you will only knit 5 before your wrap and turn on the first rown of the second wedge.
I hope this clears things up for you and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I would like to purchase the yarn for the Blue Sky color wedge blanket….only Black Green, Heirloom White and Oyster Gray are listed as available and 3 colors are not?
Any suggestions? Thank you. Becca
Hi again – I just found your Maxima yarn…gorgeous colors….28 yds less per skein….would I need 2 skeins of each of the 6 colors and 3 of the background color??
HI Becca,
Thanks for writing in! Sadly, a number of the colors used in this blanket have been discontinued! You can certainly use an alternate yarn here. The blanket would be beautiful in Manos Maxima. Maxima does knit up at a different gauge and as such you will need to go up to a US 7 and the blanket will be larger. You should be able to use just one skein of each contrast color and I would suggest buying 3 skeins of the main color. Be sure to wind just two of the main color as there is a chance that you may not need the third.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I don’t knit, but crochet. Could I do this blanket? Do you have a pattern? I’m thinking single crochet and where you say wrap I add new color and crochet five with main color. So I decrease color A by five each row. Would that work?
Hi Tracy,
Thanks for writing in! At present, we only have this pattern available as a knit blanket. We will certainly keep your request in mind for the future!
Best,
Cassy
Casey, thank you for your help – Becca
Hey! I am about to switch to wedge 2, but I can’t tell which side is the RIght and which is wrong. My starting yarn and working yarn are both at the tip of the narrow side of the wedge one. Did I forget to K150 on the last wedge? Do I start wedge 2 on the large side, or the narrow side?
Thank you!
Hello Eleanor,
Thank you for reaching out! You start wedge 2 on the narrow side of the first wedge. I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi
I would like to knit this in blue sky but don’t seem to find the colors in stock. Do you offer a bundle for this blanket? Any idea when the colors will be back on the shelves? If not, any alternatives you might suggest?
Thank you for your reply, have a nice day
Lula
Hi Lula,
Thanks for writing in! The yarn bundles for this project are no longer available and some of the colors are discontinued. You can certainly put together your own color way using the lovely colors of Mulberry Merino that we presently have available!
Best,
Cassy
I’m confused, I used the same yarn and ran out 20 stitches before the end at the widest part. Is it just me did I stitch too loose? It certainly doesn’t seem too loose.
I forgot to say I was on my first wedge.
Hello Donna,
Thank you for writing us and I’m sorry to hear this happened! Do you know what gauge you are getting? The first thing I would do is measure your stitches to find out how many stitches per inch you are getting. You should have plenty of yarn for each wedge.
I hope this helps and let us know how it goes!
-Marilla
I have just begun this project. I am at least 25 rows in. Here is my concern. You said it would be correct if there were 4 stitches between the wrapped stitch. I am not sure which one is the wrapped stitch, but I have 5 stitches between the slight hole it makes. I would include a picture but it won’t let me? If I keep this up consistently , will it be correct. Do I need to count different for wedge two, since it is the opposite??
Hello Dean,
Thank you for reaching out! You’ll know you’re wrapping the correct stitch if there are 4 regular knit stitches between wrapped stitches. I suspect that the 5th stitch is your wrapped stitch, so it would be 4 knit stitches and then 1 stitch that is wrapped and then the gap. Does this make sense? If you would like to send us a picture at [email protected] we can go from there.
I hope we can help and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I am going to send you a picture, thanks.
Hi, I am no pro bit not a novice either. You are only wrapping once per row, correct? So row 1 is, well, 1 Row 2 knit144, wrp-t so you turn and that creates row 3?
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until you have wrapped the fifth stitch from the end of the row, and end with Row 2? How many rows is this?
Hello Kathy,
Thank you for writing us! Yes, each short row, row counts as one row. After completing rows 1 and 2, you will repeat rows 4 and 3 until you wrap the fifth stitch from the beginning, and you will end with Row 3. For a more detailed explanation of short rows, check out our Short Row Tutorial! I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi,
How to make this blanket larger? What is the multiple?
Thanks
Hi Linda,
Thanks for writing in! Due to the nature of this pattern, the best way to scale it up, is to use a thicker yarn and larger needles. You can also always add additional wedges to increase the length! I think that the blanket would be lovely in a thicker yarn, just be sure to knit a gauge swatch to see which needles will make the most pleasing fabric! This will also give you an idea of how large the blanket will be. Once you know the number of stitches per inch that you are getting, you can divide the cast on number by your stitches per inch and that will tell you how wide the blanket will be at your gauge.
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Thanks Purl Soho for such a wonderful pattern. Really easy and versatile. Can’t wait to finish…. I’ve cast in 200 so it could be a while!?
Is this a pattern that even a somewhat beginner could do? I am looking to do one baby blanket and then perhaps a larger one as a lapghan for on the couch.
Thanks!
Hello Liz,
Thank you for reaching out! I would say this blanket is more of an intermediate project, because of he short rows. That being said it is a fantastic intro to short rows, so if you are game to learn a new skill I would say go for it. I would recommend practicing on a small swatch before jumping in to sea if it is something you would enjoy making.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I’m having an issue with the “holes” left by the wrap-t. I’m following the directions. I’ve never done this technique yet. It also says “you do not need to work the wrapped stitches. Just knit the wrapped stitches as regular knit stitches.” ???
I’m on wedge 2 and am seeing holes and no clue as to how to fix them.
Hello Lisa,
Thank you for reaching out! This sounds very frustrating- you should not be getting holes from the wrap and turns. How big are the holes? If you would like you can send us a picture to [email protected].
I hope I can help!
-Marilla
It would be helpful to see what other knitters are experiencing. I too have been getting holes.
Thank you.
Hello Karen,
Thank you for writing in! You shouldn’t be getting holes where the wraps are. I’m curious if this is happening every time you are knitting back across your triangles? How big are the holes? Please feel free to e-mail us a photo at [email protected] so we can further trouble shoot the issue. I hope I can help!
Warmly,
Marilla
I have just started this pattern, but I am a bit confused. It says to knit 144 stitches then wrap. Doesn’t that leave 5 I worked stitches? Many thanks
Hello Rachheal,
Thank you for reaching out! Yes, after knitting your 144 stitches you will wrap and turn leaving 5 stitches on your right needle as you turn your work to knit back across. This is what is creating your triangles.
I hope this helps and let me know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thank you so much for replying! Now I’m stuck on the end of the 1st wedge. Do I have 4 unworked stitches once I complete the last wrap and turn? Many thanks!
Hello Racheal,
Thank you for this question. You are correct! You will then repeat row 3 and knit back across the row and then purl all 150 stitches. You are almost to the next wedge!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
I want to make the Colorful Wedges Blanket and increase size to 36″. I can calculate the number of stitches I will need to increase, but I want to know if I will need to increase the number of stitches between wrapped stitches. Thanks for responding.
Sally
Hello Sally,
This is a great question. You can either keep the same number of stitches between short rows or increase the number of stitches between your short rows. If you increase the number of stitches between your stitches your wedge angle will not be as steep. As long as everything is consistent it should work out!
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
i want to know if this instructions are also for smaller blanket for instance 110 stiches
Hi Lilian,
Thanks for writing in! You can work this pattern with any multiple of 4 plus 2 stitches, so it should work with a cast on of 110 stitches! You will just have to adjust Row 2 of Wedge 1 to work your wrap and turn 6 stitches from the end of the row. The rest of the pattern should then work as written!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi! I’m about to start this blanket and since I’ve not done wrap and turns before, I’d like to practice a bit. Could you give me any tips on how I would “shrink” this pattern to swatch size? Thanks!
Hello Connie,
Thank you for reaching out! This is a great idea, I would recommend casting on 36 stitches and following the pattern as written. for Row 2:(wrong side): K30, wrp-t
I hope this helps and good luck!
-Marilla
Hi,
I’m also seeing holes in my work. Have you solved that problem yet?
Many thanks!
Heather
Hi Heather,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m sorry to hear you’re running into this problem! We don’t have a general solution since there are a few issues that could cause holes, so please send us a picture of your work at [email protected] and we’d be happy to take a look!
Best,
Julianna
Hi,
Thanks for your reply.
I found the German Short Row method is very easy so switched to that and it looks much better.
Hi friends from Purl Soho! I’ve already knitted this beautiful blanket and wanted to do it again with the “original” colors. However, I am afraid some of them are not availible anymore for the “pink sunrise” version. What is your alternative wool suggestion? I was considering Posy, but the re-fixing colours process rather discourages me. What about the Linen Quill? Any other idea of wool and colour combination with intense pink? Thank you and regards from Spain, Europe!
Hi Leticia,
Thanks so much for the kind words – it’s so exciting to find a pattern that you enjoy so much you have knit it again! I would suggest substituting our Cashmere Merino Bloom. It is just about the same weight as Mulberry Merino, and we just added quite a few new colors that include some lovely bright pinks and corals!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Thank you!¡ I think I am going to use a selection of different types of wool, respecting the weight the pattern calls for as you suggested. The cashmere merino bloom are certainly in! It’s a beautiful pattern, I really enjoyed knitting it, and never encountered any “hole ‘ issue when knitting the short rows! Thanks for your quick and kind reply!
Hi there,
I have already knit this blanket twice with worsted wool. I would like to make it again with a super bulky yarn that has about 2.5 stitches to the inch. I am thinking of casting on 102 stitches for a good size blanket. Will that work and, if so, would I use the same stitch count number for the w & t’s?
Thanks!
Hi Carol,
Thanks for reaching out! At 2.5 stitches per inch, 102 stitches will result in about a 40 inch blanket, which is a nice throw size. To begin the short rows, you will knit to 6 stitches from the end before working the first wrap and turn, and then work the rest of the short rows as written.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Beginner here. I started this but found it was curling. I thought I’d made a mistake by alternating knit and purl rows, so I ripped out my first wedge and started over. However, when I wrap and turn at the end of the first row, my yarn is now in front, which makes me think I should purl back to the beginning. Does knit always mean knit in a pattern? Help!
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, you should be knitting every row of this blanket. After turning, you will simply need to move your yarn to the back in order to knit the next row.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I love your blanket but why the short rows? Could it not be knitted intarsia style with 2 balls of wool on each row? I was also thinking about making a full size blanket with the wedges on either side and a plain stripe in the middle
Hello Jenannie,
Thank you for reaching out- these are some exciting design ideas! You could certainly create alter this pattern to incorporate intarsia instead of short rows. The transition from color to color will look different because it will be an intarsia transition rather than a row to row transition.
Let us know how it goes!
-Marilla
I’ve finished Wedges 1 and 2, and am now about to start on Wedge 3 with Yarn C. It says to repeat Wedge 1, but that starts with casting on 150 stitches. Should I knit 150 stitches on the wrong side instead?
Hello Yvonne,
Thank you for reaching out! For wedge 3 you will just ignore the cast on instruction and jump to row 1.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I think that I am making a mistake on the second wedge. I knit the turn stitch and then knit the next four stitches…that is five stitches. Then on the next stitch (6th stitch) I wrap and turn. This has made the second wedge shorter and hence shorter on one side. So should I have four total stitches and then turn on the next (or fifth) stitch? If so, do you have any suggestions as to how I can balance the two sides? I love the pattern and am enjoying knitting the blanket!
Hi Cindy,
thank you for reaching out! You’ll know you’re wrapping the correct stitch if there are 4 regular knit stitches between wrapped stitches. It sounds like your mistake might have been in wedge 1? You should always have 4 regular stitches between your wrap and turn stitches so if you knit your wrap with its stitch, knit four stitches, wrap and turn that is correct! It is pretty important for the angles to correspond with each row, unless you don’t mind having a lopsided blanket! since you are just on the Second wedge it might be worth starting over.
I hope this all makes sense and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi Marilla,
I now see what I was doing wrong. I saw four stitches between the wrapped stitch, but I was including the wrapped stitch in my count. Unfortunately I was seven wedges into the blanket so there was quite a bit of ripping, but I am hopefully back on track. Thank you for showing my mistake.
Cindy
Hi I am making this blanket and have ripped it out several times because the white wedges are wider. Am I making a mistake that I don’t recognize or is the wedge wider. Thanks for your help.
Hi Mary Ellen,
I am so sorry to hear that you are having difficulties! All of the wedges should be the same width. Each wedge should be 150 stitches wide. We would be happy to look at an image of your blanket to try to help figure out what might be happening to cause the wedge to be wider. Please do send an image to [email protected] and we will do our best to help!
Best,
Cassy
Am I over thinking the pattern for the second wedge. Is it the same sequence as wedge one, only written differently? Thanks, ME
Hello Mary,
Thank you for reaching out! Yes, the second wedge is the first wedge, but reversed. This is why the directions are different.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Should my first row of wedge 2 be knit 144 stitches wrap the next stitch and head back leaving 5 stitches of the first color
Hi Mary Ellen,
Thanks for reaching out! You should be starting Wedge 2 at the narrow end of the completed Wedge 1, and your first row will be K5, Wrp-t as written in the pattern. If you are at the wrong end of Wedge 1, you can knit one row all the way across to start at the other edge of the blanket.
I hope that clears everything up!
Julianna
I am currently making this baby blanket. Love this pattern ! Only thing is that I didn’t realize it’s only a one sided blanket as you can see the color changes on the wrong side. Is there anyway to correct this ? Here’s hoping. B.
Hi Barb,
Thanks so much for the kind words and for writing in! Unfortunately there isn’t a way to change colors in garter stitch without having a different appearance on one side of the work. Although the wrong side will look a bit different, we find that it is usually fairly unobtrusive, and no one will notice once there is an adorable baby snuggled up in the blanket!
Best,
Julianna
Can this be done using intarsia for each row thereby bypassing the need to knit wedges?
Hello Deirde,
Thank you for reaching out! You could certainly do this, you will just want to be sure that is spaced out properly to create the wedge.
I hope this helps, but let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
-Marilla
I just finished my first wedge. It looks too big compared to the picture posted on the website. How many rows should be completed to finish the wedge? Or what is the measurement of the wedge at the wide side. My gauge is the same as is written on the pattern. I can’t figure out what I am doing wrong. I knit to 5 stitches remaining at the end and then wrp-t. Which then looks like 4 stitches on the other side of the needle. Is this correct? Please help!
Hello Michelle,
Thank you for reaching out! Yes, you knit till 5 stitches before the most recently wrapped stitch, and then wrap and turn. When you turn your work it looks like 4 stitches, because the 5th was wrapped. This sounds like it could be a gauge issue, rather than a row count issue. How many stitches per inch are you getting? What is the measurement of your wedge? Our wedges are 6″ at the highest point.
I hope I can help and happy knitting!
-Marilla
When I count my rows at the highest point it is 74. When I count your rows from the picture it is only 60. I am wrapping correctly. I have done the first wedge twice and come up with the exact same rows. My height at the tallest is 7 inches. My gauge is good. there is something amiss with the number of rows. Any thoughts?
Hello Michelle,
Thanks for the clarifying information! Yes, we have 60 rows, and this gives us the 6″ hight on gauge. If you are reducing your row by five stitches when you wrap and turn then you will also get 60 rows. I’m not sure what could be going wrong, but it does sound like it is an issues that is happening in the process of your wrap and turns. I know that when I’m knitting garter stitch it is easy for me to get in the zone and knit a couple extra rows without realizing it. This would give you some extra rows? I like using a row counter to help me remember that I have to do a wrap and turn after every other row.
I hope this is helpful and let us know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
I hope this helps
Hi, I made this blanket with Australian 4ply Baby Yarn and was quite pleased with the result, however the sides were not as neat as the ones in your pictures.Do you have any tips on obtaining a better edge at the end of each row?
Thanks Anne
Hi Anne,
Thanks for reaching out! It’s very common for any irregularities in tension to work themselves out to the edges of your work and result in a somewhat untidy edge. You may want to try slipping the first stitch of each row to even things out, but often just paying extra attention to how you hold your yarn throughout each row, not just on the edges, to make sure that each stitch is as even as possible, will help the edges turn out neater.
Best of luck, and I hope that helps!
Julianna
I made this for my grandson and it is beautiful, except the Mulberry Merino pills something terrible! It makes me so sad. WHY does is pill so badly?
Hi Cheryl,
Thanks for reaching out! All animal fiber yarns will pill to some degree, and unfortunately many of the qualities that make a yarn extra soft – such as using fibers that are short and fine like merino, and a looser twist or ply – will also result in more of a tendency to pill. However, you can remove the pills and fuzz with a sweater comb or Gleener and the blanket will look good as new, and after a few fuzz removals, usually the fiber will settle down and pilling will reduce dramatically.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I’m a fairly new knitter but I’ve done a few projects so far and want to try this one. However, I had a few questions as I was reading through the pattern. How do you connect the yarn colours between wedges? Are any of the wedges connected as you make them or do you have to seam them at the end? And if I were to make this bigger, possibly into a throw blanket, would I just cast on more stitches and leave the same distance between wrapped stitches?
Thank you so much!
Hi Camryn,
Thanks for reaching out! I’m happy to report that there are no seams at all in this blanket! After each wedge is formed with short rows, you simply knit across all the stitches with the new color and then knit the new wedge. Yes, as long as you cast on a multiple of 5 and start your first short row by wrapping the 5th stitch from the end, you can make the blanket larger!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Iam writing to ask about the first row. It says to knit 144 then w&t. Should it not be 145?
Hi Anita,
Thanks for reaching out! 144 stitches is correct! After knitting 144 stitches, you will work your wrap and turn on the 145th stitch, leaving 5 stitches unworked.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
First, I’m confused by where it says at the end of wedge 1 “Next Row (wrong side): K150 to end of row (see Notes, above).” The previous row was only 5 stitches, right? So how do you “K150 to end of row”? Does this mean you are knitting along the angle of the wedge?
Secondly, are you using the wrap t at the end of each row in Wedge 2 to connect the new color to Wedge 1?
Sorry if the answers to these questions are really obvious but I’m new to this!
Thanks!
Hi Jessica,
Thank you for reaching out- these are great questions and it sounds like you have a good idea of what’s coming! I find the image below the Wedge 2 section to be really helpful when imagining how these two wedges will come together. In the photo above, Wedge 1 is the mustard color, and the wrap and turns were used to decrease the amount of worked stitches row by row until there were 5 stitches, creating a long triangle. In the last row of Wedge 1, you are knitting across the full 150 stitches, working any wrapped stitches as a regular knit stitch and ignoring the wraps- this will bring you back to the narrow end of your triangle. Now, in the white Wedge 2 section, you’ll be starting from the narrow end at the bottom right and using wrap and turns to increase the amount of worked stitches row by row, creating an upside down triangle that fits perfectly together with the first one. I hope that helps and makes sense, but do let me know if you have any more questions!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
This is my first Wrp-t project I see that there are some patterns with wrp-t where you need to pick-up up the wrapped stitch. There are others where you knit across it like nothing happened.
For this project, do I need to pick up that wrapped stitch?
When I got to this part of wedge 1 “Next Row (wrong side): K150 to end of row (see Notes, above).” I did not have 150 stitches left, I think it’s because I did not pick up the wrapped stitch. I read the ‘notes’ but the way it is written didn’t make sense to me as a newbie. Thanks!
Hi Christie,
Thanks for reaching out! Most of the time in garter stitch projects, like this blanket, it isn’t necessary to pick up the wrap, as the textured fabric will disguise any holes left by the wrap & turns quite nicely. The note is simply explaining that you don’t need to pick up the wraps! Picking up the wrap or not doesn’t affect how many stitches you have on the needle, however, so you should have had the correct number of stitches! At this point in the pattern, you should have worked short rows all the way across your work so the wedge is complete, and ended with a row 3, so you are at the end of your work, not in the middle of a row, with the wrong side facing. You will then knit a complete row across all 150 stitches which, if you started with the correct number of stitches, you should still have.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hello!
I just finished this blanket and it’s lovely! But I’m not a very experienced knitter and I’m having trouble with weaving in some of the ends, specifically the ends at the thin edge of the colourful wedges. Do you have any recommendations for how to weave in the ends as subtly as possible? I actually really like the look of the transition row on the wrong side and I’m finding that my normal method of weaving in for garter stitch is ruining it.
Hi Samantha,
Congratulations on your finished blanket! Although it can be a bit more challenging than other techniques, the most invisible method for weaving in ends would be to use duplicate stitch, which we demonstrate on garter stitch in our Weaving In Your Ends tutorial, about halfway down the page. As long as you work the duplicate stitch over the same color as the yarn tail, it should be nearly invisible and won’t interfere with the look of the join between the two colors!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I have almost completed the first wedge and I have 8 stitches left from the last wrap. As I understand it, there should be only 5 stitches left from the last wrap. Where am I going wrong?
Judging by the number of questions/comments, would it be possible to expand on the directions.
Thank you.
Hi Pat
Thanks for reaching out! There should be 4 regular knit stitches between wrapped stitches across the row. It’s possible you miscounted and possibly have 5 stitches somewhere, or 3 and this is why your remaining number of stitches is off. I would double-check the numbers across the row, to see if you can find any discrepancies, because this might throw the angle of the wedge off making it look different from the others. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting
Jessica
i would like to make this blanket for my new grandaughter. I thought it would be quick and easy given that it is all garter stitch. I am a bit intimidated by the wrp-t technique here. I looked briefly at the video tutorial. For this pattern, are we to follow the technique for the knit side or the purl side? I regret to say that these things do not come easily for me. I will appreciate clear, basic explanation.
Thank you,
Rose S.
Hi Rose,
Thanks for reaching out! Since this blanket is knit in garter stitch, you will always be following the knit-side instructions for the wrap and turns. Once you follow the tutorial once or twice and get going, the pattern should become quite easy and intuitive to follow, and we are always here to help if you have any more questions!
Best,
Julianna
Hello! I’d like to add an attached icord all the way around. Do you have any tutorials for how to do this? I can find ones for the casting on edge, the sides and the binding off, but not for the corners.
Thanks so much.
Hi Colleen,
Thanks for getting in touch! Yes, we do have an Attached I-Cord tutorial, but ours also does not include specific instructions for going around the corners of a square or rectangle. However, it’s quite easy to do! Whenever you get to a corner of your blanket, you will work one row of I-Cord without attaching it, then resume working the Attached I-Cord as normal. You can see a little more detail on how to do this in the border instructions for our Beautyberry Blanket!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello,
Is there a cotton yarn ‘equivalent’ that could be used in place of Mulberry Merino for this blanket? If so, what would it be?
Thank you!
Hi Tess,
Great question! Yes, our Cotton Pure is the same weight as Mulberry Merino and would be fantastic in this blanket! Although I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch to make sure, you should be able to obtain the same gauge and knit the pattern without any modifications.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Thank you, Julianna!!
In the beginning of the comments you say it is a multiple of 4 + 2 and at the end of the comments you say it’s a repeat of 5. I am confused and want to make the blanket wider by just a bit. On a sample using the 5 as the repeat I have 5 on one end and 4 on the other. Please clarify. Thanks so much. It’s such a cute blanket.
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for writing in, and I apologize for the confusion! The correct multiple for this blanket is 5, and you are right that you won’t have the exact same number of stitches outside of the wrap and turns at each end of the wedges – we also had 5 stitches before the first wrap and turn at one end and 4 stitches before the other. You can now knit across all your stitches and start the second wedge instructions!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I love this pattern so much I just had to thank you PS people. I decided against the blanket I was planning to make, and my friend and I were both looking through patterns. She spotted this and sent me the link and I was like, this is it. I can’t wait for my grandson to get it for Chanukah. (it’s Kelevima on Ravelry)
Hi,
Is there a crochet version oh this amazing blanket?
Thanks,
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for writing in! We don’t currently have a crocheted version of this blanket, but I will be sure to pass your request along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
Hello! Would love to knit this and know the original colors have been discontinued. I’m not great at putting together color combinations, so I’m wondering if you could suggest a couple of colorways (perhaps on the warmer side). Thank you!!!
Hi Anjya,
Thanks for reaching out! For a colorway on the warmer side I would recommend Heirloom White or Wheat Flour for the main color and then Mustard Seed, Turmeric Yellow, Persimmon Orange and Toasted Pecan for the contrast colors!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hello! I just knit this gorgeous piece for a friend and loved it so much I’d like to make another for myself, but I’d like to downsize by about a third…To something like a cast on of 100 (?) Maybe then I shrink the stitch progression from five to three (so cast on 99?) ? Or, how would you recommended shrinking the size, by say, a third? Any help thinking through this is greatly appreciated!
Hi Robin,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend casting on 100 stitches since the pattern is worked over an even number of stitches!
Please let us know how this turns out and please feel free to reach out if you have any more questions moving forward!
All the best,
Gianna
I misread this and started my yarn A which I intended to be my yarn F- I’m part way through my first wedge of yarn B…. anything I can do to make this right? Or should I just change my colour plan….
Thank you!
Hi Melissa,
Thanks for reaching out! You can either continue on as is and adjust your color plan or you could start over with the color you wanted for Color A!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
I LOVE this pattern, but I just reached the end of my third wedge and it is a lot taller than the first and second wedges. I wrapped the same stitches, and still have the same number as when I started. Is there a reason this might be happening?!
Hi Samantha,
Thanks for reaching out! My best guess is that your tension may have changed a bit and you may be knitting a bit more loosely causing the wedge to be a bit bigger! I would recommend measuring your gauge of this wedge compared to the other to see if the gauge has changed at all! Our tutorial All About Gauge is an excellent resource to use!
I hope this helps and please feel free to reach out with any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
1. Ideally I would love to make this in washable wool. Can you make any recommendations?
2. I also love the color choices in the Line Weight Merino. Too fine for this project?
Thank you!
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! We don’t have a sport weight superwash wool available, however our yarn Cotton Pure is machine washable and is a sport weight like Mulberry Merino!
Line Weight is a bit too light as is, but you could double it up to achieve a similar gauge! Keep in mind though that Line Weight is also a hand wash only yarn!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi, I’m thinking I’d like to knit this blanket but was thinking of trying to use a color way designed for the mitered blanket. Any thoughts ? Thanks
Hi Alice,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to assist with this! For this blanket are you planning on using just the color palette of the Mitered Corner Blanket or the yarn as well?
Looking forward to hearing from you!
Gianna
Hi Gianna – I am mostly interested in knitting the blanket with some type of gradient color shift and I thought the mountain color palette could work. I am not attached to using that specific yarn. I guess the other way to think about it would be to knit with 2 yarns and do — aa/ab/bb/bc/cc/cd/dd/de/ee. Does that make sense? What are your thoughts…. It is for a baby blanket so soft and easy to work with would be great… I’m interested in your thoughts and ideas… thanks so much,
Hi Alice,
Thanks for your response! Yes- that makes perfect sense! In that case, I have a few options for you! We love to use our Linen Quill for baby blankets (the same yarn used in the Mitered Corner Blanket!) For this blanket I would recommend holding the yarn doubled throughout, using Heirloom White as the base color and then for colors A-F using 2 colors at once:
A: Oatmeal Gray + Eggshell Blue
B: Eggshell Blue + Green Turquoise
C: Green Turquoise + True Turquoise
D: True Turquoise + Cobalt Blue
E: Cobalt Blue + Crocus Bud
F: Crocus Bud + Lavender Opal
I think this would be a stunning combination and super fun to mix the colors together!
Or you could use the original Mulberry Merino yarn for the blanket, I would recommend Heirloom White for the base and then Light Cerulean, True Turquoise, Inlet Blue, High Tide, Crocus Bud and Cinder Gray!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
I have just finished the first wedge of this blanket. When I knit the wrapped stitches they look real loose. The pattern says to knit the wrapped stitches as regular knit stitches. Any idea as to why this happened? Before I go forward with the second wedge, I wanted to check. Thank you.
Hi Laurie,
Thanks for reaching out! Would you be able to email pictures of your work to our customer service team at [email protected]? That way, we can see what you’re looking at and troubleshoot from there!
All the best,
Kelsey
Hello,
I would like like to knit this pattern . Is the Mulberry Merino still available? If not, what are the alternatives?
Hi Sylvia,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, Mulberry Merino has been discontinued, but we have several other Sport Weight yarns that would work great with this pattern! I would suggest using Season Alpaca, Cotton Pure, or even BROOKLYN TWEED Ranch 03! Just be sure to work a gauge swatch prior to beginning to ensure you are consistent with the pattern!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
I love the pattern, but really did not like how the interface between wedges looked when I didn’t knit the wrap along with the wrapped stitch – maybe it was because of the high contrast in my colors. I tore it out and started knitting the wrap with the wrapped stitch. Looked so much better, but was time consuming. So I switched to doing 2-stitch (or German) short rows. I would highly recommend this change for a neater looking edge to the wedges.
Hi there. I am getting read to knit the Wedges blanket. I would like to increase the size to 36 inches. Could you please tell me how many stitches to cast on?
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out. You would need to cast on 180 stitches to make a blanket that’s 36 inches wide!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks for that. Just wondering, then, in the notes I read that the pattern works in multiples of 4 + 2…so would that make it 182 stitches?
Hi Susan,
I’m curious where you’re seeing that! It looks like to me, that this pattern is worked over a multiple of 5 stitches. For the short rows, you’ll be working each wrap + turn five stitches away from the previous one, so 180 stitches will definitely work. Hopefully this clears things up!
All the best,
Lili
An earlier post
Julianna says:
September 10, 2018 at 1:53 pm
Hi Lilian,
Thanks for writing in! You can work this pattern with any multiple of 4 plus 2 stitches, so it should work with a cast on of 110 stitches! You will just have to adjust Row 2 of Wedge 1 to work your wrap and turn 6 stitches from the end of the row. The rest of the pattern should then work as written!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi Susan,
Thank you for bringing that comment to my attention! It looks like there was some confusion, and Julianna states in a later comment (from July 29, 2020) that the correct multiple is actually 5:
“Thanks for writing in, and I apologize for the confusion! The correct multiple for this blanket is 5, and you are right that you won’t have the exact same number of stitches outside of the wrap and turns at each end of the wedges – we also had 5 stitches before the first wrap and turn at one end and 4 stitches before the other. You can now knit across all your stitches and start the second wedge instructions!”
Hope this clarifies things!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
Hoping for some much needed help. I love this pattern but am a bit of a neophyte at this . I finished wedge one and am starting wedge two with the new colour but I’m not sure I understand the instructions. If I knit 5 and then wrap and turn, how do I knit to the end of the row? When i turn i only have 5 stitches on the needle to knit again. So I’m pretty confused as to how I do wedge 2. Can anybody help break down the instructions for me?
Alison
Hi Alison,
Thanks for reaching out. You can think of those 5 stitches as the entire row! Those instructions just mean to knit to the edge (the end of the row) and then turn your work as usual to begin the next short row. With each additional short row, you’ll be “adding” stitches to the row, so the next time the pattern instructs you to knit to the end of the row, the row will have 10 stitches instead of 5, since you added those on the previous short row. I hope this helps clear things up!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
I read in a reply above that this is knitted over an even number of stitches: If I want to make a larger blanket, by what variable would I increase it? Would it be multiples of 2? 4? etc.
Thank you!
Hi Strix,
Thanks for reaching out. There is some confusion in previous comments, but this blanket is actually worked over a multiple of 5 stitches. So you can increase the stitches by any multiple of 5! I hope this helps.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you, Lili.
I wonder if you could help me make a swatch? I guess like the little ones shown in the pattern.
I don’t know the ‘formula,’ I guess, on how to proceed, after the number of CO stitches I choose.
Thanks for the help!
Hi Strix,
Thanks for reaching out! A good formula to work up a swatch for this pattern would be to cast on multiples of 5, like 30 or 35 stitches. From there you can follow this model:
Wedge 1:
Row 1 (right side): Color A, k6, place marker (pm), knit to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1, knit to marker, remove marker (rm), wrp-t
Row 3: Slip 1, knit to end of row.
Row 4: Slip 1, knit to 5 stitches before previous wrapped stitch, wrp-t.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until you have wrapped the fifth stitch from the beginning.
Repeat Row 3 one more time.
Next Row (wrong side): Slip 1, knit to end of row.
Cut Color A.
Wedge 2:
Row 1 (right side): With Color B, k5, wrp-t.
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Row 3: Slip 1, knit to previous wrapped stitch, knit that stitch, then k4, wrp-t.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until you have wrapped the fifth stitch from the end of the row.
Repeat Row 2 one more time.
Next Row (right side): Knit to end of row.
Next Row (wrong side): Repeat the last row.
Cut Yarn B
Then you will want to repeat Wedge 1, then Wedge 2, as many times as you would like, ending with wedge 2, and then bind off on the right side.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Wow, thank you so much! Really appreciate it❤️
Hello, I am making my first wedge and I am really confused on how I am to add the white Color.
I understand the first wedge until it says wrap at your last 5 stitches and then knit 150… am I adding the white then?
Is there a YouTube video you could suggest?
Hi Shayla,
Thanks for writing in. You will add in the white yarn after the pattern says to “Cut Yarn A”! So you’ll knit the 150 stitches with Color A, then cut that yarn, and then begin the second wedge with Yarn B (white). All you’ll need to do to start this new color is simply begin knitting Row 1 of Wedge 2 using the new ball of yarn as the working yarn. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
The wraps are causing large gaps in my knitting when I knit back over them with the next color. Is there something that could be causing this? I’ve started over multiple times and am sure I’m following the pattern correctly. Thanks so much!
Hi Chelsea,
Thanks for reaching out. If you’re experiencing large gaps in the knitted fabric, it could be a tension issue! When you work your wrap + turns, you’ll want the tension of the wrap to match the rest of the stitches, but it’s very easy to wrap too tightly. When a wrap is too tight, it pulls the wrapped stitch in one direction, which often leaves a gap once you knit the next row. It may also be helpful to review our tutorial for wrap + turn short rows, just to double check that you’re doing them correctly! Just a note though, our tutorial is for wrap + turn short rows in stockinette stitch, whereas this pattern is in garter stitch. But the only difference is that you don’t have to worry about knitting the wrapped stitches with their wraps when you’re doing them in garter stitch!
All the best,
Lili
Hello!
I finished the blanket (I admit I did not do a gauge – silly of me) and now only have a blanket with 23inch each side. Is there anything I can do to make it bigger yet not destroy your amazing pattern?
I would start over again but I need to knit another one (friends is expecting twins).
Thanks for your help!
Cheers Tina
Hi Tina,
Thanks for reaching out. I would recommend vigorously blocking your blanket! Once the fabric is wet, you’ll be able to stretch it larger so that it’s closer to 30 inches wide, and it will retain this shape as it dries. (Just make sure you’re not too rough with it, or the yarn might felt, depending on what type of fiber you used!)
All the best,
Lili
I’m interested in making this blanket for a baby girl with Season Alpaca yarn. Can you help me build a color way around these colors: Wild Lupine, Purple Foxglove and Lilac Quartz? I’m not sure what color to choose as my Yarn B, or for the other two colors needed to complete this pattern. Thank you!
Hi Jen,
Thanks for reaching out! I would love to help you select a color pallet! I would suggest using Heirloom White or Dove Gray for Color B, and then Wild Lupine, Purple Foxglove, Lilac Quartz, Mountain Rose, and Red Plum.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
This is going to be beautiful! Thanks so much for your recommendation!
I would love to make this blanket for my granddaughter in the Cotton Pure not on the cone. I love the vibe of the original. What colors would you suggest for the Cotton Pure to get that vibe? And how many skeins would I need of each. Thank you so much!
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for reaching out. I’d be happy to recommend some colors of Cotton Pure that will match the original color palette of this blanket! Here’s what I’m thinking:
Color A: Jonquil Yellow (1 skein)
Color B: Heirloom White (2 skeins)
Color C: Rosy Red (1 skein)
Color D: Beach Rose (1 skein)
Color E: Gray Birch (1 skein)
Color F: Silver Quartz (1 skein)
I hope this helps you plan your project!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much Lili! I feel confident to make a beautiful Colorful Wedges blanket because of your help. And, I just ordered all the yarn you suggested! This will be my 7th grandchild for whom to knit a blanket. So special.
I really appreciate your time and help,
Jennifer
Hi!
I’m making this blanket for my baby niece, but I think I may have bought the wrong yarn. I *thought* that the super soft merino was in the sport weight category but it doesn’t show up on the link anymore. I started the project with the merino but it seems like I will have to buy double the amount of yarn for each color.
What would you suggest? Should I send back the yarn I bought and try a different yarn?
Hi Jo,
Thanks for reaching out. This blanket was originally designed for Mulberry Merino, but we’ve since discontinued that yarn! Super Soft Merino is a chunky/bulky weight yarn, so it’s quite a bit thicker than Mulberry Merino was.
But you can absolutely return your yarn in exchange for a sportweight yarn! I’d recommend using Wigeon or Season Alpaca, as those are the closest yarns we currently carry to the original.
When you’re ready to send the Super Soft Merino back, just ship it to us at the following address:
Purl Soho
2710 S Main Street
Suite A
Santa Ana, CA 92707
Please make sure to include in your return package a note with your name and order number. If you no longer have your order number on hand, please include the following: your name, email address, and phone number. Please also include a note indicating exactly what yarn/colors/quantities you’d like in exchange! Once we receive your package, we’ll go ahead and send the new yarn directly to you and charge or refund your method of payment for any difference in price.
Please let us know if you have any questions about this process!
All the best,
Lili
If I wanted to adjust this pattern for DK weight instead of sport… would you recommend casting on fewer stitches, and how many should I cast on in order to make this pattern work? Would it be simple enough- mathematically- to adjust? Help would be so appreciated, thank you! 🙂
Hi Carli,
Thanks for reaching out. To figure out your cast-on number with DK weight yarn, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern with your needles of choice (if this is daunting, we have a wonderful tutorial called All About Gauge). Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width of the blanket (30 inches) and cast on the nearest multiple of 5 stitches. Then you can follow the pattern as written!
All the best,
Lili
I think I may have made a mistake – I knitted to 5 stitches prior to the last wrapped stitch and then wrapped the next stitch. This gives me sections of 4 stitches, then a gap due to the wrap, then 4 more. Did I misunderstand?
Hi Megan,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you’ve been knitting one too many stitches before working your wrap + turn. Once you’ve knit up to 5 stitches before the previously wrapped stitch, there should be, on your left needle, the previously wrapped stitch, followed by 5 normal stitches. Then, when you wrap this 5th stitch, you’ll end up with groups of 5 stitches separated by the gaps from each wrap. Hope this helps clear things up!
All the best,
Lili
hello!
I would like to make this a little bit smaller, like reduce by 25 %…
How could I adjust the numbers? Cast on 100?
maybe only do 8 wedges ?
Would this work
Hello,
Thanks for reaching out! To reduce the size by 25%, I’d recommend casting on 110 or 115 stitches. This pattern works over a multiple of 5 stitches, so either 110 or 115 will work, and those are the two multiples of 5 that are closest to 25% of the original 150 stitch cast-on.
Then you can essentially follow the pattern as written, and your blanket will also come out 25% shorter, since you’ll be knitting fewer rows per wedge! On Row 1 of WEDGE 1, you’ll just need to make sure you’re wrapping and turning on the 6th stitch from the end of the row. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I LOVE this pattern!! Could you help me figure how to make this in the size of a throw?
Hi Caitlin,
Thanks for reaching out! This pattern works over a multiple of 5 stitches, so to make a larger blanket, just cast on more stitches, making sure that the stitch count is a multiple of 5. From there, you can follow the pattern as written, and the only change you’d need to make would be on Row 2. You can work Row 2 like this:
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to last 6 stitches, wrp-t.
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi there, I’d like to make this with a medium (4) 100% cotton yarn. The packaging says gauge is 20 sts – 26 rows = 4″ with size 7 needles. I would say I am a tight to average tension knitter. I don’t mind it being a little bigger than original (up to 36″ would be fine). Any idea if I should cast on less and what the new yardages would be? Whether the pattern would need to change? Thanks so much!!
Hi Mariah,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend starting by knitting a gauge swatch. That way, you can see exactly what your tension is and adjust accordingly! The easiest thing to do, rather than adjust the pattern itself, is to change your needle size so that you can match the gauge of the pattern more closely (even if it’s not exact). The gauge of this pattern is 20 stitches per inch, so it sounds like you could absolutely make that work with the yarn you have. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I’m new to wrp-t, but I watched the PS tutorial. I thought all made sense, but trying it out on Wedge 1 at the end of row 2, I’m ending up with 6 stitches on the right (before knitting back across on Row 3) Looking through your team’s previous answers to this question, I should have 5. Can you tell me what I’m doing wrong?
Hi Audrey,
Thanks for reaching out! You should have 5 normal stitches and one wrapped stitch to the right before you knit back across for Row 3. Are these the 6 stitches you’re seeing? If so, what you have is correct!
However, if you have a total of 7 stitches (6 normal stitches and 1 wrapped stitch), then all that means is you need to knit one additional stitch before working the wrp-t. Hope this helps clear things up!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I’ve started this blanket. But for some reason all of my Wedge 2 wedges are smaller than the Wedge 1 wedges. Wedge 1 has what looks like 36 rows, and wedge 2 has about 29 rows. Any idea what I’m doing wrong??
Hi Caitlin,
Thanks for reaching out, although I’m sorry to hear that your wedges are coming out at different sizes! Would you be able to send a photo of your work to [email protected]? That way, we can better visualize what’s going on!
All the best,
Lili
Hello, I came across this pattern whilst looking for something to knit for my great nephew 💙
Just wondered if anyone has tried this pattern using a thicker yarn, i.e. dk or worsted and if it looked just as good.
Hi Leyla,
We haven’t tried it ourselves, but you could absolutely use a thicker yarn for this pattern! You’d just need to modify the number of stitches you cast on to ensure that the blanket comes to the correct size.
To figure out your cast-on number with any other weight of yarn, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern with your needles of choice (if this is daunting, we have a wonderful tutorial called All About Gauge). Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width of the blanket (30 inches) and cast on the nearest multiple of 5 stitches. Then you can follow the pattern as written!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much for the reply, and the tips on how to work out the number of stitches to cast on for a different weight yarn. 😀
I would like to use some stash yarn to make this pattern and I have a fingering gradient that I think would work nicely. I have 5 fingering weight skeins that are superwash merino single ply (is this a terrible idea for a baby blanket?), each skein has 150 yards. I’m thinking if I use a smaller needle and add more stitches, that might be appropriate? Could you give me some advice?
Hi Lindsay,
Thank you for writing in! I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch with the recommended needle size to attempt the gauge of the pattern first. That way you can get an idea of the fabric to see how you like it and if you can continue without further adjustments. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Such a lovely pattern!
would it be possible to knit this in stocking stitch (stockinette) instead of garter stitch?
Hi Sue,
Thank you for writing in! That’s a great question. Although that sounds like a lovely idea, we don’t recommend knitting this pattern in stockinette as it would change the size of the wedges and would likely cause the blanket’s shape to change. I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella