Lightweight Raglan Pullover
A circular raglan pullover is a wonderfully empowering thing for first-time sweater knitters. Creating one is like receiving a decoder ring for sweater-making. It unlocks secret geometries and makes simple sense of what is, after all, a pretty complicated garment.
Who knew you could knit three tubes (i.e. 2 sleeves and a body) and then join them together into a larger tube (i.e. a yoke)!?! From there, regular “raglan” decreases shape the shoulders, from the underarms to the neckline. And in our Lightweight Raglan Pullover, subtle details, like cording stitch edges and short row shaping, give beginners a good challenge and keep experts interested.
Purl Soho’s Linen Quill effortlessly elevates this simple sweater into something truly special. Its blend of wool, alpaca, and linen gives the Lightweight Raglan Pullover a soft bloom, a beautiful drape, and a unique look.
Whether this is your first sweater or your hundredth, I hope you enjoy the magic. No matter how many new tricks I learn, I turn to this intuitive construction method time and time again, loving how it unlocks the world of sweater-knitting! -Laura
Update: Now in Cattail Silk!
August 2018
We love our Lightweight Raglan Pullover in Linen Quill, but for summer, we love it even more in beautiful Cattail Silk… as light and gentle as a warm breeze! Cattail Silk comes in a stunning array of colors and is 618 yards per skein… which means, to make a Cattail Silk version, you’d just need 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) skeins!
UPDATE: NEW COLORS
January 2022
Whether it’s your first sweater or fiftieth, casting on with something special makes the knitting special. And when it comes to our Lightweight Raglan Pullover in Linen Quill, the mix of fine highland wool, alpaca, and linen ensure every stitch of this sweater is a thrill, no matter how many times you’ve knit it. See our two new versions here!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoLightweightRaglanPullover, and #PurlSohoLinenQuill. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) (5, 5, 5, 5) skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. Each skein is approximately 439 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 1155 (1285, 1420, 1555, 1695) (1830, 1955, 2080, 2195) yards required. We used the color Oatmeal Gray.
- US 4 (3.5 mm), 32- or 40-inch circular needles, depending on size you are making
- US 4, 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 4 double pointed needles
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
YARN UPDATE: For a fantastic alternative to Linen Quill, try our Cattail Silk! It has a very subtle shine, a wonderfully earthy texture, and a casual spin speckled by little nubs of color. It comes in a stunning array of colors and is 618 yards per skein… which means, to make this Lightweight Linen Raglan, you’d just need 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) (4, 4, 4, 4) skeins!
NOTE: Looking to knit your sleeves in double-time? Swap the double pointed needles for 32-inch or longer circular needles, and check out our Magic Loop: Two At A Time Tutorial!
Gauge
28 stitches and 33 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Sizes
NOTE: For help picking the correct size, visit our Understanding Ease + Selecting Your Size Tutorial.
32 (36, 40, 44, 48) (52, 56, 60, 64)
To fit actual chest circumference of 28-31 (32-35, 36-39, 40-43, 44-47) (48-51, 52-55, 56-59, 60-63) inches, with 1-4 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 32 (36, 40, 44, 48) (52, 56, 60, 64) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge of Back: 22¾ (23¼, 23½, 23¾, 24) (24¼, 24¾, 25¼, 25¾) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge (measured at side): 10½ (10½, 10¼, 10, 9¾) (9¾, 10, 10¼, 10½) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Cuff: 16¾ (16¾, 17, 17½, 17¾) (17¾, 17¾, 18, 18¼) inches
SAMPLE: The sample pictured here is size 36 inches, modeled with 3 inches of ease.
Notes
CONSTRUCTION
This sweater is worked in the round from bottom up. You will begin with the Sleeves, then set them aside and work the Body from bottom to Underarms. There, you will join Sleeves, then work the raglan Yoke to Neckline, which you will shape with short rows. You will finish with the Neckband.
SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS
CORDING STITCH
NOTE: For a photo how-to of this technique, visit our Cording Stitch tutorial!
*Use tip of right needle to pick up purl bump four rounds directly below next stitch (shown in pink, above)…
…Place purl bump on left needle, knit next stitch and picked-up stitch together, repeat from * to end of round.
NOTE: If you anticipate having trouble identifying the stitches you need to pick up, visit our Cording Stitch tutorial for tips on adding a “lifeline.” This is a step you do before you work the Cording Stitch that helps indicate which round you’re picking up!
MAKE 1 RIGHT + LEFT (M1R + M1L)
NOTE: For more help with these increases, visit our Make 1 Right (M1R) + Make 1 Left (M1L) tutorial.
Make 1 Right: Use left needle to pick up strand (or “bar”) between last stitch and next stitch, from back to front. Knit into front leg. [1 stitch increased]
Make 1 Left: Use left needle to pick up strand between last stitch and next stitch, from front to back. Knit into back leg. [1 stitch increased]
SHORT-ROW SHAPING: WRP-T (WRAP AND TURN)
NOTE: For more information about this technique, please visit our Short Rows tutorial.
On the right side: Keeping yarn in back, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to front. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Bring yarn to back. Turn work so wrong side is facing you.
On the wrong side: Keeping yarn in front, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to back. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Bring yarn to front. Turn work so right side is facing you.
PICKING UP PURL WRAP ON KNIT SIDE
NOTE: See this situation in action at minute 4:33 of our Short Rows tutorial.
Use tip of right needle to pick up wrap, inserting needle from front to back. Place wrap onto left needle, nudging wrap, if necessary, so it is after next stitch on needle. Slip first stitch knitwise, then slip wrap purlwise. Insert tip of left needle into front legs of two slipped stitches. Wrap working yarn around right needle to knit two together.
Pattern
Sleeves
Cast 52 (56, 60, 64, 68) (72, 74, 76, 78) stitches onto three double pointed needles. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Place marker (pm) and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, for 8 rounds. (Note: If you’re planning on adding a lifeline, do so right after finishing your fourth round at the cuffs, collar, and hem!)
Next Round: Work Cording Stitch (see Special Instructions) to end of round.
Continue in stockinette stitch until piece measures 1 inch from cast-on edge.
Shape Sleeve
Increase Round: K1, make 1 left (m1L), knit to last stitch, make 1 right (m1R), k1. [2 stitches increased]
Continuing in stockinette stitch, repeat Increase Round every 7th (6th, 6th, 5th, 5th) (4th, 4th, 4th, 4th) round 12 (18, 5, 22, 12) (29, 23, 22, 24) more times, then every 6th (0, 5th, 4th, 4th) (0, 3rd, 3rd, 3rd) round 4 (0, 16, 1, 14) (0, 8, 10, 8) time(s). [86 (94, 104, 112, 122) (132, 138, 142, 144) stitches]
Continue in stockinette stitch until piece measures 16¾ (16¾, 17, 17½, 17¾) (17¾, 17¾, 18, 18¼) inches from cast-on edge.
Next Round: K5 (7, 9, 11, 13) (15, 17, 19, 21), place previous 10 (14, 18, 22, 26) (30, 34, 38, 42) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn (removing end-of-round marker), knit to end of round. [76 (80, 86, 90, 96) (102, 104, 104, 102) stitches remain]
Cut yarn.
Place remaining stitches onto stitch holders or scrap yarn and set aside. This will be the Right Sleeve.
Make Left Sleeve same as Right Sleeve, but leave the 76 (80, 86, 90, 96) (102, 104, 104, 102) Sleeve stitches on double pointed needles and set aside.
Body
Using a Long Tail Cast On, cast 224 (252, 280, 308, 336) (364, 392, 420, 448) stitches onto longer circular needles.
Place unique marker for end of round and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch for 8 rounds.
Next Round: Work Cording Stitch to end of round.
Shape Bottom Edge
NOTE: In this section, you will be working back and forth in short rows, turning the work partway through each row. For extra help, see Special Instructions.
Short Row 1 (right side): K75 (84, 93, 103, 112) (121, 131, 140, 149), wrp-t (see Special Instructions).
Short Row 2 (wrong side): P38 (42, 46, 52, 56) (60, 66, 70, 74), wrp-t.
Short Row 3: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k3 (4, 5, 5, 6) (7, 7, 8, 9), wrp-t.
Short Row 4: Purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p3 (4, 5, 5, 6) (7, 7, 8, 9), wrp-t.
Short Row 5: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k2 (3, 4, 4, 4) (5, 5, 6, 6), wrp-t.
Short Row 6: Purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p2 (3, 4, 4, 4) (5, 5, 6, 6), wrp-t.
Short Rows 7-12: Repeat Short Rows 5 and 6 three more times.
Short Row 13: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k2 (2, 2, 3, 3) (3, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t.
Short Row 14: Purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p2 (2, 2, 3, 3) (3, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t.
Short Rows 15-20: Repeat Short Rows 13 and 14 three more times.
Short Row 21: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k1 (1, 1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 2, 3), wrp-t.
Short Row 22: Purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p1 (1, 1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 2, 3), wrp-t.
Short Rows 23-28: Repeat Short Rows 21 and 22 three more times.
Short Row 29: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k75 (84, 93, 103, 112) (121, 131, 140, 149), wrp-t.
Repeat Short Rows 2 through 28 once more.
Next Short Row (right side): Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, slip marker.
Next Round: *Knit purl-wrapped stitch with its wrap (see Special Instructions), knit to next purl-wrapped stitch, knit purl-wrapped stitch with its wrap, knit to end of round.
Continue Body
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, until piece measures 14 (14, 13¾, 13½, 13¼) (13¼, 13½, 13¾, 14) inches from cast-on edge (measured at longest point, either at center Back or center Front).
Divide Front + Back
Division Round: K5 (7, 9, 11, 13) (15, 17, 19, 21), place previous 10 (14, 18, 22, 26) (30, 34, 38, 42) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn for Left Underarm (removing end-of-round marker); k112 (126, 140, 154, 168) (182, 196, 210, 224), place previous 10 (14, 18, 22, 26) (30, 34, 38, 42) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn for Right Underarm; knit to Left Underarm (next stitch holder). [204 (224, 244, 264, 284) (304, 324, 344, 364) stitches remain: 102 (112, 122, 132, 142) (152, 162, 172, 182) stitches each for Front and Back]
Yoke
Join Sleeves
NOTE: For help with this section, please visit our Joining Sleeves To Body Tutorial.
Joining Round: Holding Underarms parallel to each other, use working yarn from Body to k76 (80, 86, 90, 96) (102, 104, 104, 102) Left Sleeve stitches, pm; k102 (112, 122, 132, 142) (152, 162, 172, 182) Front stitches, pm; slip on-hold Right Sleeve stitches onto spare needles and holding Underarms parallel to each other, k76 (80, 86, 90, 96) (102, 104, 104, 102) Right Sleeve stitches, pm; k102 (112, 122, 132, 142) (152, 162, 172, 182) Back stitches, place unique marker for end-of-round. [356 (384, 416, 444, 476) (508, 532, 552, 568) total stitches: 102 (112, 122, 132, 142) (152, 162, 172, 182) stitches each for Front and Back; 76 (80, 86, 90, 96) (102, 104, 104, 102) stitches for each Sleeve]
Begin Shaping Raglan
SIZE 32 ONLY
Next Round: Knit to end of round.
Sleeve Decrease Round: [K1, slip slip knit (ssk), knit to 3 stitches before next marker, knit 2 together (k2tog), k1, slip marker (sm), knit to next marker, sm] 2 times. [4 stitches decreased]
Repeat last 2 rounds once more. [348 total stitches: 102 stitches each for Front and Back; 72 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Round: Knit to end of round.
SIZES 36 AND 40 ONLY
Next Round: Knit to end of round.
SIZES 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, AND 64 ONLY
Next Round: Knit to end of round.
Body Decrease Round: [Knit to next marker, slip marker (sm), k1, slip slip knit (ssk), knit to 3 stitches before next marker, knit 2 together (k2tog), k1, sm] 2 times. [4 stitches decreased]
Repeat Body Decrease Round – (–, –, 2, 3) (3, 7, 11, 15) more times. [– (–, –, 432, 460) (492, 500, 504, 504) total stitches: – (–, –, 126, 134) (144, 146, 148, 150) stitches each for Front and Back; – (–, –, 90, 96) (102, 104, 104, 102) stitches for each Sleeve]
ALL SIZES
Raglan Decrease Round: [K1, slip slip knit (ssk), knit to 3 stitches before next marker, knit 2 together (k2tog), k1, slip marker (sm)] 4 times. [8 stitches decreased]
Continuing in stockinette stitch, repeat Raglan Decrease Round every round 0 (0, 2, 4, 6) (10, 14, 16, 16) more times, then every other round 23 (27, 28, 27, 28) (27, 23, 21, 20) more times. [156 (160, 168, 176, 180) (188, 196, 200, 208) total stitches remain: 54 (56, 60, 62, 64) (68, 70, 72, 76) stitches each for Front and Back; 24 (24, 24, 26, 26) (26, 28, 28, 28) stitches for each Sleeve]
Set Up Neckline + Shoulder Shaping
Set-Up Round: Knit to next marker, sm, k36 (38, 41, 43, 45) (48, 50, 52, 55), place previous 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) (28, 30, 32, 34) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn for Front Neckline, knit to end of round. [138 (140, 146, 152, 154) (160, 166, 168, 174) total stitches remain: 18 (18, 19, 19, 19) (20, 20, 20, 21) stitches each for Left and Right Front; 54 (56, 60, 62, 64) (68, 70, 72, 76) stitches for Back; 24 (24, 24, 26, 26) (26, 28, 28, 28) stitches for each Sleeve]
Cut yarn.
Slip the following markers and stitches from left needle to right needle: slip end-of-round marker, slip 24 (24, 24, 26, 26) (26, 28, 28, 28) Left Sleeve stitches, sm, slip 18 (18, 19, 19, 19) (20, 20, 20, 21) Left Front stitches.
The stitch marker at Back Left now serves as a raglan marker instead of end-of-round marker, and the Front Neckline now marks the end of row.
SHAPE NECKLINE + SHOULDERS
NOTE: In this section you will again be working back and forth in short rows, turning the work partway through each row.
With right side facing you, join yarn to Right Front stitches…
Short Row 1 (right side): [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 4 times, knit to last stitch, wrp-t. [130 (132, 138, 144, 146) (152, 158, 160, 166) total stitches remain: 17 (17, 18, 18, 18) (19, 19, 19, 20) stitches for each Front; 52 (54, 58, 60, 62) (66, 68, 70, 74) stitches for Back; 22 (22, 22, 24, 24) (24, 26, 26, 26) stitches for each Sleeve]
Short Row 2 (wrong side): Purl to last stitch, wrp-t.
Short Row 3: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 4 times, knit to last 5 stitches, wrp-t. [122 (124, 130, 136, 138) (144, 150, 152, 158) total stitches remain: 16 (16, 17, 17, 17) (18, 18, 18, 19) stitches for each Front; 50 (52, 56, 58, 60) (64, 66, 68, 72) stitches for Back; 20 (20, 20, 22, 22) (22, 24, 24, 24) stitches for each Sleeve]
Short Row 4: Purl to last 5 stitches, wrp-t.
Short Row 5: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 4 times, knit to last 8 stitches, wrp-t. [114 (116, 122, 128, 130) (136, 142, 144, 150) total stitches remain: 15 (15, 16, 16, 16) (17, 17, 17, 18) stitches for each Front; 48 (50, 54, 56, 58) (62, 64, 66, 70) stitches for Back; 18 (18, 18, 20, 20) (20, 22, 22, 22) stitches for each Sleeve]
Short Row 6: Purl to last 8 stitches, wrp-t.
Short Row 7: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 4 times, knit to last 10 (10, 11, 11, 11) (11, 12, 12, 12) stitches, wrp-t. [106 (108, 114, 120, 122) (128, 134, 136, 142) total stitches remain: 14 (14, 15, 15, 15) (16, 16, 16, 17) stitches for each Front; 46 (48, 52, 54, 56) (60, 62, 64, 68) stitches for Back; 16 (16, 16, 18, 18) (18, 20, 20, 20) stitches for each Sleeve]
Short Row 8: Purl to last 10 (10, 11, 11, 11) (11, 12, 12, 12) stitches, wrp-t.
Short Row 9: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 3 times, knit to 4 stitches before next marker, wrp-t. [100 (102, 108, 114, 116) (122, 128, 130, 136) total stitches remain: 13 (13, 14, 14, 14) (15, 15, 15, 16) stitches for Right Front; 14 (14, 14, 16, 16) (16, 18, 18, 18) stitches for Right Sleeve; 44 (46, 50, 52, 54) (58, 60, 62, 66) stitches for Back; 15 (15, 15, 17, 17) (17, 19, 19, 19) stitches for Left Sleeve; 14 (14, 15, 15, 15) (16, 16, 16, 17) stitches for Left Front]
Short Row 10: [Purl to next marker, sm] 2 times, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Short Row 11: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 2 times, k1, wrp-t. [96 (98, 104, 110, 112) (118, 124, 126, 132) total stitches remain: 13 (13, 14, 14, 14) (15, 15, 15, 16) stitches for Right Front; 13 (13, 13, 15, 15) (15, 17, 17, 17) stitches for Right Sleeve; 42 (44, 48, 50, 52) (56, 58, 60, 64) stitches for Back; 14 (14, 14, 16, 16) (16, 18, 18, 18) stitches for Left Sleeve; 14 (14, 15, 15, 15) (16, 16, 16, 17) stitches for Left Front]
Short Row 12: [Purl to next marker, sm] 2 times, p3, wrp-t.
Short Row 13: Knitting wrapped stitches with their wraps as you come to them, [k2tog, k1, remove marker, k1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker] 2 times, k2tog, k1, remove marker, k1, ssk, knit to end of row. [90 (92, 98, 104, 106) (112, 118, 120, 126) total stitches remain: 13 (13, 14, 14, 14) (15, 15, 15, 16) stitches for each Front; 40 (42, 46, 48, 50) (54, 56, 58, 62) stitches for Back; 12 (12, 12, 14, 14) (14, 16, 16, 16) stitches for each Sleeve]
Neckband
Changing to shorter needles, place a unique marker to indicate end of round.
Round 1: With right side facing you, k18 (20, 22, 24, 26) (28, 30, 32, 34) on-hold Front Neckline stitches, knit to end of round, knitting remaining wrapped stitches with their wraps and removing remaining raglan markers as you come to them. [108 (112, 120, 128, 132) (140, 148, 152, 160) stitches]
Continue in stockinette stitch for 3 rounds.
Next Round: Work Cording Stitch to end of round.
Continue in stockinette stitch for 2 rounds.
Bind off all stitches loosely.
Finishing
NOTE: For help with Kitchener Stitch, visit our tutorial.
Holding Body and Sleeve Underarms stitches parallel to each other, use Kitchener Stitch to graft Underarm stitches together. Sew up any holes, if necessary.
Weave in the ends and block as desired.
Hi, I’m a beginner knitter. Can you please help me figure out how to lengthen the sleeves? From my shoulder I’d like it to be 24.5″.
Hello Shannon,
Thank you for reaching out! This should be pretty simple- When you get to the part of the pattern that says “continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, until piece measures 16 ¾ (16 ¾, 17, 17 ½, 17 ¾) inches from cast-on edge.”- you can just continue to knit until it is the desired length.
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Marilla
I have a question. I’m at the ‘shape neckline and shoulders’ section and I have 24 stitches for each sleeve, but 58 each for front and back instead of the listed 56. Help!
Hello Candi,
Thank you for contacting us- we have all been there! Because you only have to extra stitches it shouldn’t be a big deal to just decrease two stitches. If I were you I would k2tog on the right side of your sweater and ssk on the left side of your sweater. I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
Warmly,
Marilla
I ran into a problem when doing the short rows. After I finished, there is a wider gap at the marked side… by quite a bit. I do the math, dividing the total number of stitches in half (for each side) and it doesn’t seem to work out but no one else seems to be having this problem. Am I missing something? I am making a size 40. After doing the first round of short rows, I knit 93 and did all the second side short rows before discovering the discrepancy on the sides. Trying to figure out where I went wrong I added up the number of stitches and it still doesn’t seem to come out mathematically…
Sorry~ my bad. I frogged it and figured out that my problem was with the short rows. I was working with German short rows and doing my w&t on one stitch too soon. I think that’s my problem… I’ll see what happens now.
Please let me know how this goes! I seem to be having a similar problem.
Lovely pattern, but I managed to use a different yarn a a completely different gauge – foolhardy non?! Finished the sweater and didn’t like the front raglans, they were too poufy, so being the good Sewist (!) I pinned and have deduced I need to decrease more in the front raglan seams. Ripped out 52 rows! Gosh, sorry, I’m getting to the question!
The neckline had horrible holes where I joined the stitches previously held on the holder. Think I accidentally pulled the loose yarn ends which tightened them in parts. I just don’t want to risk holes at that neckline join again.
Is there anything I should look out for when joining? Is this a common problem with joins like this?
Very tempted to try this in a fine wool, but need a V neck option, here I go free styling again!
Hi Lesley,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words! How very brave and exciting! Holes when joining back in tend to be caused by pulling a bit too tightly. You can try easing up a bit at the join points. Additionally, you can always fix small holes after the fact by duplicate stitching over the hole or sewing them up on the back side using some scraps of your yarn.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Hello! I have been knitting since my grandmother taught me at six years old. I’m now twenty four years old and this will be my first sweater! Before I begin, I already have US size 4 circular needles but they’re only 29 inches long. I am making the 36 inch sweater, will these needles be too short?
Thank you for your time!
Tori
Hi Victoria,
How lovely to have been taught by your grandmother! For the size that you are making, a 29″ long needle will work fine. You will still need the 16″ needles and well as the DPNs but as far as the longest needle, I think that you should be all set!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Thanks for such a timely reply! My linen qill comes in on Thursday and I cannot wait to begin!
Tori
hi! thank you guys for lovely free pattern.
maybe you can help me to figure out “raglan decrease”. i’m making 36 size and after joined the sleeves and started “raglan decrease round” (for all sizes) i’ve noticed that decreasing only sleeves (i suspect i’ve placed the markers wrong). after [8 stitches decreased] i still have 112 stitches for each Front and Back and 76 stitches for each sleeve. do you have any suggestions what i can do at this point?
greetings from ukraine:)
Magdalena
reading through your comments and replies i’ve realized that it’s not the markers. i’ve been doing decrease wrongly (4 stitches for one round).
although, can you please clarify how to decrease 8 stitches in one round?
thank you,
M
Hi Magalena,
Thanks for writing in! I sometimes find that it is helpful to write out an expanded version of a round. The Raglan Decrease Round reads: [K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker (sm)] 4 times. [8 stitches decreased]
Expanded, it will read: K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm.
In the above, I have bolded the decreases. In each repeat, you decrese 1 at the begining and 1 at the end, repeating the repeat 4 times for a total of 8 stitches decreased.
I hope that this helps clear things up!
Cassy
Thank you very much, Cassy!
Hi,
I started this project a couple months back and have just come back to it and have lost my notes. I am trying to figure out which short row “row” I was on so I don’t have to redo the bottom shaping. I have about 2.5″ from the longest portion of the body for a size 36. I am sure I was in the middle of shaping one side of the sweater.
MY question is how are you supposed to count the number of short rows you’ve completed and know which row you are on the “SHAPE BOTTOM EDGE”? I know I need to count the number of rows, but I am not sure which stitch I should count from.
Hi Dhruvi,
Thanks for writing in! Figuring out where you are can be a bit complicated but it can be done. You will want to count the number of stitches between the most recently finished wrap and turn and the last one. You can then work out which short row you were on by counting how many you should have based on each short row. For example, the first short row for the size 36, you knit 84 stitches and then wrap and turn. For the second row, you purl 42 stitches and then wrap and turn. Then for row 3, you knit to the wrap and turn and knit the stitch with its paired wrap and knit 4 stitches further. Now there should be 47 stitches between the wraps.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
After the knit w&t do I purl to BOR before I count the purl stitches or do I count the purl stitches immediately after the w&t?
Hi Ashlee,
Thanks for writing in! After you complete the wrap and turn, you will continue onto the next short row. So if you are knitting the smallest size, for short row 1, you will knit 75, wrap and turn (wrp-t). And then you will begin short row 2 by purling 38 and then wrap and turn. The turn portion of the wrap and turn, sets you up for the next short row!
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
I’d like to start by saying that this pattern is fantastic and the linen quill is absolutely heavenly to work with!
I’ve completed both sleeves, however I am on my third attempt at the short rows for the bottom of the body. They are coming out fantastic, up until the front and back meet at the sides. I keep ending up with a large gap on both sides and I can’t figure out why! Are there any tips or tricks for this?
Best,
Tori
Hi Tori,
Thanks for writing in and thank you for your kind words! We love Linen Quill too!
With this lovely sweater, there two bottoms will not meet in a flat continuous fashion. When connecting them, they will swoop up to meet each other to a point in the middle. It could be that you are pulling a bit too tight or a bit too loosely on the stitches nearest the sides. It might be easier to understand what is happening if you were able to send us an image. If you can, please do so to customerservice@purlsoho.com and we will do our best to help you figure out how best to proceed!
Best,
Cassy
hi! I knitted this raglan pattern last fall and LOVED it. am trying the striped spring shirt now and would like the sleeves and bottom to have the same finish as this pattern with the cording stitch to prevent rolling.
I can just follow these instructions for the main body hem but since the sleeves are worked top down on that pattern I am a bit at a loss. is there a way to finish the sleeves on that pattern the same way?
thank you!
Hi Elise,
Thanks for writing in and for your very kind words! You can certainly give the cording stitch a go on your Striped Spring Shirt. While I have not worked cording stitch top down, the principle should still hold and the look should not be too different. I would give it a go as you would have worked it in this pattern being sure to knit a few more rounds after the cording round.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Help! I’m working on the Neckband section and can’t figure out how to pick up the wrapped stitches that come after knitting the 20 on-hold Front Neckline stitches. I was able to pick up the previous wrapped stitches before I hit the 20 neckline stitches with no problem, but now I think I’m knitting toward wraps that I made on the purl side and when I try to pick them up, big holes appear. If I were approaching these wraps from the purl side, I would know how to pick them up, but since I’m coming at them from the knit side, I’m not sure what to do. Any advice?
Hi Kelsey,
Thanks for writing in! Picking up wraps that were completed on the purl side can be a bit tricky at first but it need not create holes! Using the right hand needle, you will pick up the wrap, placing it next to the wrapped stitch on the left hand needle and then you will knit the wrap together with its wrapped stitch. This should prevent holes from forming while still picking up the wrap!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I am having the same issue as Kelsey. The way you described it is if you were picking up the wrap on the purl side. The issue is I am trying to pick up a purl-side wrap on the knit side to join the on hold stitches with the rest of the round. When you are looking at the stitch while knitting, the purl wrapped stitch is wrapped around the right side of the stitch, making it too tight to pick it up and put it on the left needle. At least I can’t figure out how to do it that way. It seems like you would need to do a different type of wrapped stitch in order to join in the round. I could pick up the other wraps, but this is the wrap from the 2nd short row. Any suggestions? Thanks! Other than this issue, this has been a fun pattern to knit!
Hi Meghan,
Thanks for writing in! Picking up wraps made on the purl side while knitting on the knit side can be a bit confusing. In general, you pick them up in the same fashion that you would a wrap made on the knit side. This does mean that you will be able to see the wrap. There are alternate short row types that hide the wraps. I hear that German Short Rows do this quite well, but we do not have a tutorial for these type of short rows.
For the wrapped purls, you will want to knit to the wrapped purl stitch and using the right-hand needle, pick up the wrap from the front of your work placing it on the left needle over the stitch that it was wrapped around and then knitting those two stitches together. If the wrap is too tight to do this, you may have pulled the wrap a bit too tight as you were knitting or purling initially. You can try picking it up with a smaller gauge needle, just being sure to transfer the 2 stitches that are knit together as one back to your regular needle to even out the gauge. This should help you from having to rip back to reknit the short rows.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I’d love to have this sweater pattern sized for kids!
Hi Vanessa,
Thanks for writing in! We certainly appreciate the suggest and will keep it in mind for the future!
Best,
Cassy
is it common for people’s tension to be looser in the short row section on bottom? i’m finding my gauge to be quite different from my swatch gauge and wondering if it’s due to loose purling…
Hi Stephanie,
Thanks for writing in! It is possible that short rows can change your gauge a bit. I would do another gauge swatch to be sure you aren’t just knitting a bit looser or tighter than when you started. That a common issue for a lot of knitters!
Best,
Carly
I have a question about Short Row 12 for the neck shaping. I am making the 36 inch size and I just want to confirm how many stitches should be remaining when I do the wrp-t. As I read the instructions I have 24 stitches remaining when the wrp-t occurs on the purl side. However on Row 11 it came with 18 stitches. Can you confirm for me?
Thank you – I am so excited to finish this sweater as it has been a full year of work.
Hello Rachel,
Thank you for reaching out and congratulations on almost being finished with your sweater! Just to confirm you are talking about the number of stitches left on each side of your row during the wrap and turns?
Once you start to only decrease on one side of the sleeves rather than both the number on either side will be deferent. You should have 18 stitches on the left side for row 9 and 16 stitches on the right side for row 10. When you get to row 11 you will have 13 stitches for Right Front, 13 stitches for Right Sleeve, 44stitches for Back, 14 stitches for Left Sleeve, 14 stitches for Left Front. This means that you will do a wrap and turn when you have 25 stitches left, because you have 14 stitches for the front left and you have 14 total stitches for your left sleeve, and you just k1, ssk, k1, which leaves 11 stitches and 11 plus 14 = 25. For row 12 you will have 26 sts.
I know this is a lot and I hope it makes sense and please feel free to reach out if you need any clarification
Warmly,
Marilla
This is such a beautiful sweater! Do you have any plans to make a baby/toddler version of this? Or could you recommend a similar baby/toddler pattern? Thank you!
Hello Chelsea,
Thank you for reaching out and for such kind words! We do not have a baby/toddler version of this pattern, but I will certainly pass along your request! We do have a couple of lovely baby sweaters, I would check out our Easy Pullover or our Purl Soho Pullover.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi there! Do you have anything you do differently when joining yarn in the round in an airy knit like this? What’s your preferred method for joining yarn in the round?
Hello Jessica,
Thank you for reaching out! You will join your yarn in the round just like any other yarn for this project, just join and knit, no special technique require. 🙂
Happ knitting!
-Marilla
I am making this in size 36 and ordered 3 skeins. I’d like to make it a little longer than called for in the pattern…maybe 2 inches longer. Should I order another skein of linen quill?
Hi Karen,
Thanks for writing in! We recommend having 1,210 yards for the size 36, which is about 2.75 skeins of Linen Quill. I think you should have enough spare yardage for your extra length, but if in doubt, you can order another skein, and as long as it is unwound you can exchange it for store credit.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I know that as soon as I read your answer to my question, it will be really obvious. Right now, I just can’t visualize it. I’m on the short rows. I knitted up a flat swatch to make sure I could do the wraps. I used a shadow wrap, all good, no holes. Short rows in the round. In reading the pattern, it looks like I knit the short rows of the front piece the sweater first, forming the shirt tail effect. How do you get to the back piece and start knitting the shirt tail there? Or are both shirt tails being done at the same time?
Hi Angela,
I think I can help! Each rounded hem is worked separately. After working Short Rows 1-28, on row 29, you will resolve the wrap and turn from the previous row, then continue knitting without turning to move on to the back of the sweater. You then repeat rows 2-29, which will create the curved hem on the back of the sweater. I hope that answers your question!
Regards,
Julianna
I need help! Question about the Raglan decrease round, with 8 stitches decreased. Do you you do round twice around to get 8? I am so confused!
Thank you, Crystal
Hi Crystal,
Thanks for writing in! I sometimes find that it is helpful to write out an expanded version of a round. The Raglan Decrease Round reads: [K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker (sm)] 4 times. [8 stitches decreased]
Expanded, it will read: K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm.
In the above, I have bolded the decreases. In each repeat, you decrese 1 at the begining and 1 at the end, repeating the repeat 4 times for a total of 8 stitches decreased.
I hope that this helps clear things up!
Cassy
But I am still confused , do you end up doing 2 rounds to get to the eight stitches? It appears to me this is the same decrease as sleeve but repeated to get to 8 is the correct?
Crystal
I just figured it out! Thanks so much!
Crystal
I love this sweater and have a single skein of the color I want to use. I’ll certainly need to order more, but it will be from a different dye lot. Do you think if I alternate skeins (every row or every few rows) I would be able to easily disguise that they’re from different dye lots? Would this sweater lend itself to doing that?
Hi Kate,
Thanks for writing in! Alternating rows is a great way to disguise varying dye lots, and I think it would work especially well in a slightly textured and heathered yarn like our Linen Quill. I would wait until after the Wrap & Turn sections and then begin alternating skeins on every row. When you order, however, please let us know in the order notes what dye lot you already have so we can check our warehouse just in case we have a few more skeins of the same lot!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello! Could this sweater be made with the Mulberry Merino? I am concerned that my skin may be too sensitive for the linen quill. Or do you have any other recommendations for yarn choices that would be softer? I also love the black green color option for merino. Thank you!
Hi Lauren,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately Mulberry Merino is quite a bit thicker than Linen Quill so it would not be a good substitute. Linen Quill does soften up quite a bit after washing and wearing a few times, but we do also have plenty of fingering weight options that may be more up your alley! I would recommend taking a look at our Line Weight, Woolfolk Tynd and Sno, or Manos del Uruguay Fino to see if you prefer any of those fibers.
Good luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello! Would it be possible for you to tell me the finished length of the sleeve from the neckband to the cuff for the size 36 sweater? Thanks!
Hello Toni,
Thank you for reaching out! We just measured our sample in the shop and the length from the neckband down to the bottom of the sleeve is about 24.5″.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I’m making this sweater right now and not having many problems. However I’ve been knitting for many years and honestly? This sweater would have been much easier to read, work, and understand if it had been designed as a top-down.
Hi Shawna,
Thanks for reaching out! While we currently don’t have any plans for a top down version of this sweater and many knitters have been successful with the pattern, I will pass your thoughts on to the design team to consider for future projects. Thanks again for the great suggestion!
Best,
Julianna
Hi! I am looking to make this pattern and am confused on which size to make. My bust is 36″, and I couldn’t tell if the size 36 would fit alright or if I should go up to size 40. I like my sweaters slightly oversized, maybe just 1 or 2 inches of positive ease.
Thanks!
Hi Ally,
Thanks for reaching out! I think the size 40 might be a better fit – a sweater with zero ease tends to be very form fitting, and based on your measurements, the size 40 would within our recommendation of one to four inches of positive ease. If you are still in doubt, I would recommend measuring a lightweight sweater you already own that fits you well to see which size is closest to a sweater you are already happy with.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Do you know if it would be possible to use a seed stitch on this pattern? If so, would you suggest just the front and back or the entire project? Would I have to get additional yarn?
I’m also considering a shorter sleeve…perhaps to the elbow?
I’d love your thoughts and feedback.
Thank you so very much!!
Hi Suzan,
Thanks for writing in! Although you will definitely need to knit a gauge swatch when making such a major alteration to the pattern, Seed Stitch usually has a similar stitch gauge to Stockinette Stitch, so I think you may be able to get the correct gauge and proceed with the pattern without too many changes! You may find that your Seed Stitch swatch has more rows per inch than stockinette, which is less important for the fit of the sweater than the stitch gauge, but will affect your yardage. I would recommend purchasing an extra skein of Linen Quill just in case! Design elements are entirely up to you – I think the sweater would look equally gorgeous in either allover seed stitch or thoughtfully placed panels!
Unfortunately, shortening the sleeves is quite a bit trickier as they are knit from the cuff up and would require rewriting the entire sleeve pattern, which we are unable to do through the comments. We will however keep that idea in mind for future designs!
Best of luck and please let us know how your seed stitch sweater turns out!
Julianna
I feel like I’m going crazy. I’ve been knitting for years and I wouldn’t say my tension as a knitter is loose. I’m using Linen Quill, size 4 US needles, and making an extra small and yet my sleeves are massive! I now my gauge must be off since I’m more than half-way done with the first sleeve and my circumference is measuring at 14″. Is all hope lost and I should go down to a size 2? Has anyone else had this issue?
Hello Clarice,
Thank you for reaching out! The first step to finding a solution to this is to measure your gauge, just to be sure it is in fact a gauge issues. Once you have done this you will need to go down in needle size until you are getting 28 stitches and 33 rows per 4 inches in stockinette stitch. For the most accurate measurement I would recommend knitting your gauge swatch in the round.
I hope this helps- let us know how it goes or if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi Clarice,
I had the same problem! I knitted the sleeve with #4 needles and it was already 14-15″ wide, only 7″ up! I then frogged the entire sleeve, and started over with needles a size down: 2.5 for the cuff, then size 3 for the rest. I had to add an extra row for my increases, though. I don’t know why mine were so off either, though I did notice, as I did TWO swatches, that the #4, it was about 29-30 stitches for 4″, the #3 was exactly 28. I’d thought it wouldn’t make much difference to use the #4, plus the row height was more accurate…but evidently, small discrepancies really add up!
Now I’m facing the issue of whether I should just knit the body the next size down…I don’t know why more people aren’t encountering this problem. It is the first sweater I’ve ever knitted, so, perhaps that is why?
Also, my swatches weren’t in the round.
I’d be interested to hear how your finished sweater turned out.
Marylynn
Hi Marylynn,
Thanks for reaching out! It is quite surprising sometimes how even being off by a stitch or two on the gauge can so drastically effect the sizing of a sweater, but those little differences really add up when repeated over the full width of a sweater body or sleeve! I would suggest knitting the body in the size you wish to make using the needles that gave you the correct gauge – generally, stitch gauge is much more important than row gauge, since many patterns, including this one, have you knit to a specific length rather than number or rows for most sections. If you must choose, I would recommend using the needle that gives you the correct stitch gauge.
Best,
Julianna
Hi Julianna,
Thanks for the advice, though I ended up just using the. #4 on the body and knitting a size down from what I would need, and it seems to have worked out—did a size 36 and the result is about 40 inches. My thinking was that it would take too much longer to knit with the smaller needles. I’m just about to start the neck shaping short rows (gulp!).
I’ll send a photo of my results when done.
Marylynn
Hey 🙂 I am really excited about this sweater! I have finished the sleeves and they came out nicely and have done all the short rows plus 2 regular stockinette rows, and the bottom won’t stop rolling 🙁 what do I do? Is it going to do this forever?
Hi Jamie,
Thanks for reaching out and for the kind words! Although the sweater does have a tiny rolled edge, the Cording Stitch worked around the hem and sleeves should minimize this effect, as will blocking! If you are concerned, I would suggest putting your stitches on scrap yarn and steam blocking the hem to make sure you will be happy with the finished hem. If it still rolls too much for your liking, you could always substitute an inch or so of garter stitch before beginning the short rows.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I have knitted this jumper in Linen Quill and loved it. I would like to do another one in Cotton Pure. Do you think it would work?
Hi Anna-Lena,
Thanks for writing in! Although you may be able to get the appropriate gauge with Cotton Pure, I think the resulting fabric would be quite dense and stiff and not have quite the same character as the original sweater. Instead, if you would like a warm weather sweater, I think Cattail Silk would be an excellent substitution!
Best,
Julianna
Is there an ideal cast on to use? One that goes particularly well with this style sweater? I could not find any reference in the instructions. Thanks for the help!
Hi Marie,
Thanks for reaching out! We usually use a Long-Tail Cast On for most of our projects, but I think you could also use a loose Cable Cast-On for this sweater if you prefer!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Thank you for this wonderful pattern, I made the sweater and I loved learning all the new techniques that I didn’t know before. But I did run into some problems. I have small holes at the wrap/turn when done on the purl side while I had to pick up the double stitch on the knit side at the neck area. When I wrap/turned on the knit side I don’t have the holes. How do I deal with the cut yarn in the front and back when making the neck shape? The pattern said to cut the yarn on the front side, slip stitches tp the other side and then restart the yarn. But now I have these loose yarns in the middle of a smooth area. What do you do with these? Thank you so much for your help.
I can’t wait to try other patterns.
Iris
Hello Iris,
Thank you for reaching out and you kind words! Congratulations on being so close to finishing your sweater. I have a couple of ideas about how this could be happening- picking up wraps that were completed on the purl side can be a bit tricky at first but it need not create holes! Using the right hand needle, you will pick up the wrap, placing it next to the wrapped stitch on the left hand needle and then you will knit the wrap together with its wrapped stitch. This should prevent holes from forming while still picking up the wrap.
Additionally, holes when joining back can be caused by pulling a bit too tightly. You can try easing up a bit at the join points. Additionally, you can always fix small holes after the fact by duplicate stitching over the hole or sewing them up on the back side using some scraps of your yarn.
I hope this helps and let us know how it goes!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
I’m a plus size lady & usually have no trouble increasing patterns to fit however this looks a little daunting to me. Can you provide instructions for 1X -3X sizes please???
Hello Lynellen,
We are very sorry that our patterns aren’t currently in your size range. We really do appreciate that bodies come in all shapes and sizes and share your concern that patterns be as inclusive as possible. As a small company, we haven’t yet had the resources to offer the scope of sizes we would like to, but as our company grows, we have been steadily expanding that range and plan to continue to do so!
Please be on the lookout, and thank you so much for adding your voice to this issue. We greatly appreciate your feedback!
Warmly,
Marilla
I have been knitting for years and I have never come across what you refer to as “cord Stitching!” is there a tutorial on this that I I can watch? Do I do this with every stitch in the round on the body? and what is the purpose of this?
thank you!
cindy
Hi Cindy,
Thanks for writing in! The cording stitch creates a decorative hem edging on the body, sleeves, and neck of the sweater. Unfortunately we do not have a video tutorial for this technique, but we do have a picture tutorial included in the pattern, and you only have to work it for one row at the bottom edge of each sleeve and the body and to finish the neck edge – the rest of the sweater is regular stockinette stitch!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
What am I missing? I start with 52 increase to 54 and repeat on the 7th row 12 more times (which is 78). Then I increase the 6th (80) and the 4th (82). So how do I get to 84?
Thanks
Hi Laura,
Thanks for writing in! It can be quite a math puzzle sometimes to read increase instructions like these! You are correct that you will have 78 stitches after increasing every 7th round 12 more times. The next part of the instructions, which reads “then (increase) every 6th (0, 5th, 4th, 4th) round 4 (0, 16, 1, 14) times,” for the smallest size should be interpreted as increasing every 6th row 4 more times, which should add up to 86 stitches when you are done.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Could I use your Line Weight wool in Merino wool to make this?
Thank you.
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for writing in! While Line Weight is the correct weight and should knit up to the correct gauge for this sweater, it is a very delicate yarn and may not hold up very well to the rigors of being an adult sweater. However, if you are prepared for this, it would make a heavenly soft and light weight sweater! I would just be sure to take extra care when laundering it and try not to wear it under heavy layers or when doing strenuous activity to limit friction and wear and tear on the yarn.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
This is my first sweater. I’m making the size 32 and I’ve knit the body to 13 1/2″. I’m confused about the next step: “knit 5, place pervious 10 stitches on stitch holder for left underarm.” So if I start at the end of round marker and knit 5, are the previous 10 stitches, the 10 stitches to the right of my marker? I remove those to a holder and remove the marker? I want to make sure I remove the right ones! Thanks. This has been a fun challenge for me so far, as a fairly new knitter.
Hello Tricia,
Thank you for reaching out and happy first sweater! You are exactly right, you put the 5 stitches you just knit plus five stitches on the other side of your stitch marker, so you are removing your stitch maker. This means you are putting the 10 stitches that you knit most recently on a stitch holder.
I hope this all makes sense and let me know if you have any further questions!
Warmly,
Marilla
Thanks for clarifying that, Marilla. It was not clear to me when I finished the sleeve that the knitted first 5 stitches were also supposed to go on the stitch holder along with the ones to the right of the stitch marker (it didn’t specify in the directions). It was not until I saw the photo of the sleeves on your web site that I realized I’d done something wrong.
Marylynn
Do you think that lantern is appropriate for this pattern? I would very much appreciate your answer!
Hello Anthi,
Thank you for reaching out! Lantern is going to be to thick to work for this sweater. If you are looking for an alternative yarn this sweater knits up beautifully in our Cattail Silk.
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Thank you for your suggestion Marilla, I bought the yarn because I liked it so much! Finally, I am knitting -for a second time- the M.Patmos crossover sweater using 3 mm needles. Let’s see! It knits up beautifully so far.
Thank you Marilla! I was actually looking for a pattern to use the yarn I had bought! I decided to start the M.Patmos sweater (for a second time). It knits up beautifully so far. We’ll see!
Hi – I hope you can help? This is my first ever knitted garment (scarves don’t count) and I’m stuck.
I’ve reached the neck shaping part of the pattern. Short row 1 says to wrap and turn , but I don’t know how! – I am at the end of a row so have no stitch to slip, unless I take one of the 20 held stitches?
Also I don’t understand when/how those 20 held stitches will be incorporated into the rest of my knitting.
Grateful for anything you can offer!
– Melinda
Hi Melinda,
Thanks for reaching out! You can learn how to work a wrap and turn in our Short Rows Tutorial! You should end this first short row by knitting to the last stitch of the row and working the wrap and turn on the very last stitch before the held stitches. Once you have worked all the short rows for the neck shaping, you will place the held stitches back on the needle and work a few rounds to finish the neck edge.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi! I am just finishing the first sleeve of this raglan and I am a bit confused on the instructions for the last row. I am knitting a size 36 and have 86st. The instructions say to knit 5st and then put the previous 10st on a stitch holder…including the 5st I’ve just knitted?(So basically I have 5st from 1 row and 5 from the previous row which I don’t knit at the end?)
Thanks in advance!
Alessandra
Hi Alessandra,
Thanks for reaching out! You are correct – the 10 that you place on a holder will be 5 stitches from either side of the center marker, so that when you attach the sleeve to the body, the center line of the sleeve will align correctly with the center of the armhole.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
When doing the short rows, what does it mean when it says “work wrapped stitch with its wrap?”
Hi Courtney,
Thanks for writing in! You can see how to work this technique in the second half of our Short Rows tutorial, in the sections titled Picking Up The Wrap On The Knit Side and Purl Side.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello,
I just finished making my gauge swatch for this sweater and I’m right on with the circular needles I’ll be using for the body. Should I make another gauge swatch with the double pointed needles that I’ll be using for the sleeves? I’d hate to have crazy sleeves on my nice body. Suggestions?
Thanks!
Kim
Hi Kim,
Great question! As long as your double pointed needles are the same size as your circular needle, I wouldn’t necessarily knit another gauge swatch. The only thing that may cause an issue is if the technique of using double points causes you to knit tighter or looser than normal, but it isn’t a common problem and I wouldn’t remedy that with changing the needle size unless the difference was drastic. I would just recommend paying attention to how you knit when you are working on the sleeves to keep your tension as even as possible.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi again! I have another question about this raglan. I’ve tried working the short rows for the bottom edge shaping two times already and something is just not right! When reading the instructions I assumed that I would have an equal number of sts on each side of the short row. On row 27 (knit side) I knitted all the stitches and remained with 1 st (the wrap and turn), on row 28 I was left with 3 extra stitches. The pattern doesn’t say anything about this but my guess is that each side would have to be symmetrical, right?
Thank in advance!
Hello Alessandra,
Thank you for reaching out! You are correct this portion should be symmetrical, It is incredibly easy to get off in this section. I would say that if you sweater looks good there is no reason why you couldn’t just carry on as you will just continue in stockinette and it shouldn’t affect the pattern to much.
I’m sorry I can’t exactly pinpoint your issue, but I hope this gives you some insight!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello,
I have done the bottom hem short rows twice now and I’m having the same problem. I’m making the size 40. I have marked the halfway point (separating front from back) and my short rows for the front are finishing a few stitches into the back panel. That can’t be right! I have been meticulous in marking off my rows the second time but I’m still over. I checked the short row tutorial to make sure I was doing them right too. Where else could I be going wrong? Any suggestions?
A stitch count between wrap ‘n turns in the pattern might be helpful to catch any mistakes before completing the short row section. It’s so disheartening to get that far and only then see it’s not working.
Hi Alison,
Hmm, this is a tough one! I double checked the math for the short rows for your size and it does work out – your final right side short row should end with a wrap and turn in the last stitch before the side seam marker. The only thing I can think of is that you may be missing which stitches are the wrapped stitches when knitting or purling to the wrapped stitch – in a textured yarn like Linen Quill and especially if you are using a dark yarn, it can be difficult to spot the wrapped stitch. I would suggest placing a removable stitch marker in each wrap and turn stitch so it is easier to spot!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi! Unless I’ve missed something, I’m finding that when I complete the body’s short rows I’m left with two purl-side wraps (from both short rows number 28), with no instructions as to how the wraps should be picked up. After that row 28 purl-side wrap and turn, the next instruction on both sides is to knit to wraps, but there’s no flip to pick up purl wraps. It’s left me with small holes that I’ll be able to fix in finishing, but I just want to know what I’m missing. Thanks!
Hello Tyler,
Thank you for reaching out! On row 28 of short rows you are on the purl side, So after doing 1 wrap and turn as the directions say you will be on the right side with only 1 wrapped stitch to work. I’m wondering if there was an accidental extra wrap you made?Unless the issue is at the wrap and turn at the end of row 29 of your short rows. This brings you back to row 2 which doesn’t tell you to pick up that wrapped stitch on the purl side in the pattern. That will leave a wrap that I would recommend picking up on the purl side as you were doing before.
Please keep me posted about your problem! Has it been worked out?
Warmly,
-Marilla
Hi Marilla! Thanks for this. I know I followed the wrap instructions to the letter so not sure why I encountered so many purl-side wraps while knitting. There are a significant number, which row should they be picked up on? Same question for the short rows at the neckline – when you pick up the front neck stitches it says to pick up remaining wraps, all of which were made while purling – is there a technique to pick up wraps created while purling counter-clockwise when knitting in a clockwise direction? I improvised and it turned out okay, but as a result of trying to go back and pick up those wraps I have gaps on either side of the 18 front neck stitches from when they were rejoined.
Hello Tyler,
Picking up wraps that were completed on the purl side can be a bit tricky at first but it need not create holes! Using the right hand needle, you will pick up the wrap, placing it next to the wrapped stitch on the left hand needle and then you will knit the wrap together with its wrapped stitch. This should prevent holes from forming while still picking up the wrap!
I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Help! I love the look of this sweater and bought the beautiful Linen Quill. I cast on for the sleeves and the body in the size 36. As I am knitting I can tell the sleeves are way too big. Knit on for the smaller size. Same thing. So back to trying the body and it’s outrageously huge.
I’m an advanced knitter and my swatches show the correct gauge. Is it possible there is a typo in how many stitches to cast on?
Many thanks for any help you can offer. This is my second project with Linen Quill and I adore it.
Hi Roni,
Oh no, that sounds so frustrating! We have knitted several samples and there are quite a lot of completed projects on Ravelry and we haven’t had any complaints of errors in the pattern. Is it possible that your in the round gauge is different from your flat knitted gauge? I also find that in my own work I sometimes knit tighter on my swatch since I’m paying more attention to it and then relax a bit when I’m knitting the actual garment and end up with a looser gauge. I would recommend measuring your gauge on your actual sweater or sleeve and adjust your needle size based on that measurement.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
This is a beautiful sweater that knits up beautifully with the linen quill… My only problem is that it’s come up a bit short in the length of the body. Agh! I’m considering picking up stitches at the bottom to add length and then mimic the edging again a little ways down. Is this a terrible idea? Do you have any suggestions for adding length without having to rework the entire sweater?!? Thank you for any suggestions that you can provide!
Hi Christina,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m sorry to hear that you sweater isn’t long enough! Since it might be a bit odd to add length right on top of the curved hem, rather than picking up stitches, I would recommend picking out or cutting off your cast on and unraveling your short rows. You can then knit to your desired length, reverse engineer the short rows and edging, and cast off. No one will be any the wiser that you had to perform sweater surgery!
Best of luck, and I hope that helps!
Julianna
I just finished the sweater and I’m not in love with the way the neck has turned out. It won’t roll on the sides and it looks odd to me. Do you have a suggestion for a different neckline that will work with the raglan? I made size 36.
Thank-you.
Hi Wendy,
I’m so sorry to hear that you’re not entirely happy with your new sweater! Raglan sweaters work well with quite a wide variety of neck edgings. The most common would be a 1×1 or 2×1 rib worked on a needle one or two sizes smaller than your main needle, similar to our Sweatshirt Sweater. Another option would be to finish with a narrow I-Cord Cast Off – although we don’t have a tutorial for this technique, there are quite a few out there and it would create a more stable, predictable rolled edge.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am starting to work on the yoke. However, I narrowed each sleeve by 10 stitches to make it fit better, and so my stitch count doesn’t match the pattern. Any tips for the raglan decrease rounds? If I follow the pattern and decrease until the overall stitch count matches, I’m worried the yoke will be too short. If I do the full number of decrease rounds given, I’ll have too few stitches at the end.
Hi Elise,
Thanks for reaching out! Although it may be a bit tricky to keep track of, I would suggest skipping some of the raglan decreases on the sleeves only, while continuing the decreases on the front and back, to account for the missing stitches without shortening the yoke. I would do this at the beginning of the raglan decreases, and rather than skipping them all at once, would skip the sleeve decreases on every other decrease row five times. You should then have the correct number of stitches for each section and will work the same number of overall rows in the yoke.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi, I am at the shape neckline + shoulders section. “Knit to the next marker, sm, knit 36…” I’m working on knitting the 36, but there’s another stitch marker after 24 stitches! Do I just slip that marker, keep knitting until I’ve completed 36 stitches and then place the previous 18 stitches on scrap yarn? Or do I have a massive mistake??? Thanks for any help you can provide!
Hi Tricia,
Thanks for writing in! In this section and for your size you will knit across the stitches for one of the sleeves, slip the marker and then knit 36 of the 54 stitches that you have for the front (for your size this section should have 56 stitches) and then place the previous 18 stitches on scarp yarn. I am not sure where the extra marker in this run is coming from. Perhaps you added an additional stitch marker at some point. I also think that it may help to know that the first stitches that you will knit across on this round are sleeve stitches.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I love the finishing on the edges of this sweater but had trouble finding the purl bump 4 rows below. To solve this problem, I used a contrasting yarn for the 4th row. It made it so much easier to complete the finishing and the contrasting yarn was not visible from the right side.
Hello, I got some yarn from Maine when I went in vacation there a few summers ago and have about 1575 yards of it (same weight!). I am interested in making the size 40. I was wondering about how many yards the size 40 sweater requires. I noticed a comment about the approximate yardage for a different size, but didn’t come across the 40. Thank you for any help! I hope I can make this sweater, it is so beautiful and simple looking!
Hi Erin,
Thanks so much for the kind words and for writing in! For this size, you will need about 1,365 yards of yarn, so you should have plenty!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello! I’m getting ready to start this sweater and I have a question. If I wanted to make the sweater a bit more cropped — say a just below the top of a pair of high-waisted jeans — can you tell me about how long the Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge measurement should be? For reference: I am 5’4” and usually a size S or XS. I know there won’t be an exact right answer to this question but hoping to get your opinion. Thanks!
Hi Jill,
Thanks for reaching out! You are correct, there isn’t really a right answer for this since everyone’s body is different – even knowing your height, you could be long or short waisted which would affect the answer. I would suggest measuring the side seam of a sweater you like the length of, or, if you don’t have a cropped sweater already, you could try on a sweater you like the fit of and mark where you would like the hem to be on the side seam using a safety pin and measure from there to the armpit. This should give you a fairly precise measurement of how long to knit the body of your sweater.
I hope that helps!
Julianna