Lightweight Raglan Pullover
A circular raglan pullover is a wonderfully empowering thing for first-time sweater knitters. Creating one is like receiving a decoder ring for sweater-making. It unlocks secret geometries and makes simple sense of what is, after all, a pretty complicated garment.
Who knew you could knit three tubes (i.e. 2 sleeves and a body) and then join them together into a larger tube (i.e. a yoke)!?! From there, regular “raglan” decreases shape the shoulders, from the underarms to the neckline. And in our Lightweight Raglan Pullover, subtle details, like cording stitch edges and short row shaping, give beginners a good challenge and keep experts interested.
Purl Soho’s Linen Quill effortlessly elevates this simple sweater into something truly special. Its blend of wool, alpaca, and linen gives the Lightweight Raglan Pullover a soft bloom, a beautiful drape, and a unique look.
Whether this is your first sweater or your hundredth, I hope you enjoy the magic. No matter how many new tricks I learn, I turn to this intuitive construction method time and time again, loving how it unlocks the world of sweater-knitting! -Laura
Update: Now in Cattail Silk!
August 2018
We love our Lightweight Raglan Pullover in Linen Quill, but for summer, we love it even more in beautiful Cattail Silk… as light and gentle as a warm breeze! Cattail Silk comes in a stunning array of colors and is 618 yards per skein… which means, to make a Cattail Silk version, you’d just need 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) skeins!
UPDATE: NEW COLORS
January 2022
Whether it’s your first sweater or fiftieth, casting on with something special makes the knitting special. And when it comes to our Lightweight Raglan Pullover in Linen Quill, the mix of fine highland wool, alpaca, and linen ensure every stitch of this sweater is a thrill, no matter how many times you’ve knit it. See our two new versions here!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoLightweightRaglanPullover, and #PurlSohoLinenQuill. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) (5, 5, 5, 5) skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. Each skein is approximately 439 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 1155 (1285, 1420, 1555, 1695) (1830, 1955, 2080, 2195) yards required. We used the color Oatmeal Gray.
- US 4 (3.5 mm), 32- or 40-inch circular needles, depending on size you are making
- US 4, 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 4 double pointed needles
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
YARN UPDATE: For a fantastic alternative to Linen Quill, try our Cattail Silk! It has a very subtle shine, a wonderfully earthy texture, and a casual spin speckled by little nubs of color. It comes in a stunning array of colors and is 618 yards per skein… which means, to make this Lightweight Linen Raglan, you’d just need 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) (4, 4, 4, 4) skeins!
NOTE: Looking to knit your sleeves in double-time? Swap the double pointed needles for 32-inch or longer circular needles, and check out our Magic Loop: Two At A Time Tutorial!
Gauge
28 stitches and 33 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Sizes
NOTE: For help picking the correct size, visit our Understanding Ease + Selecting Your Size Tutorial.
32 (36, 40, 44, 48) (52, 56, 60, 64)
To fit actual chest circumference of 28-31 (32-35, 36-39, 40-43, 44-47) (48-51, 52-55, 56-59, 60-63) inches, with 1-4 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 32 (36, 40, 44, 48) (52, 56, 60, 64) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge of Back: 22¾ (23¼, 23½, 23¾, 24) (24¼, 24¾, 25¼, 25¾) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge (measured at side): 10½ (10½, 10¼, 10, 9¾) (9¾, 10, 10¼, 10½) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Cuff: 16¾ (16¾, 17, 17½, 17¾) (17¾, 17¾, 18, 18¼) inches
SAMPLE: The sample pictured here is size 36 inches, modeled with 3 inches of ease.
Notes
CONSTRUCTION
This sweater is worked in the round from bottom up. You will begin with the Sleeves, then set them aside and work the Body from bottom to Underarms. There, you will join Sleeves, then work the raglan Yoke to Neckline, which you will shape with short rows. You will finish with the Neckband.
SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS
CORDING STITCH
NOTE: For a photo how-to of this technique, visit our Cording Stitch tutorial!
*Use tip of right needle to pick up purl bump four rounds directly below next stitch (shown in pink, above)…
…Place purl bump on left needle, knit next stitch and picked-up stitch together, repeat from * to end of round.
NOTE: If you anticipate having trouble identifying the stitches you need to pick up, visit our Cording Stitch tutorial for tips on adding a “lifeline.” This is a step you do before you work the Cording Stitch that helps indicate which round you’re picking up!
MAKE 1 RIGHT + LEFT (M1R + M1L)
NOTE: For more help with these increases, visit our Make 1 Right (M1R) + Make 1 Left (M1L) tutorial.
Make 1 Right: Use left needle to pick up strand (or “bar”) between last stitch and next stitch, from back to front. Knit into front leg. [1 stitch increased]
Make 1 Left: Use left needle to pick up strand between last stitch and next stitch, from front to back. Knit into back leg. [1 stitch increased]
SHORT-ROW SHAPING: WRP-T (WRAP AND TURN)
NOTE: For more information about this technique, please visit our Short Rows tutorial.
On the right side: Keeping yarn in back, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to front. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Bring yarn to back. Turn work so wrong side is facing you.
On the wrong side: Keeping yarn in front, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to back. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Bring yarn to front. Turn work so right side is facing you.
PICKING UP PURL WRAP ON KNIT SIDE
NOTE: See this situation in action at minute 4:33 of our Short Rows tutorial.
Use tip of right needle to pick up wrap, inserting needle from front to back. Place wrap onto left needle, nudging wrap, if necessary, so it is after next stitch on needle. Slip first stitch knitwise, then slip wrap purlwise. Insert tip of left needle into front legs of two slipped stitches. Wrap working yarn around right needle to knit two together.
Pattern
Sleeves
Cast 52 (56, 60, 64, 68) (72, 74, 76, 78) stitches onto three double pointed needles. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Place marker (pm) and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, for 8 rounds. (Note: If you’re planning on adding a lifeline, do so right after finishing your fourth round at the cuffs, collar, and hem!)
Next Round: Work Cording Stitch (see Special Instructions) to end of round.
Continue in stockinette stitch until piece measures 1 inch from cast-on edge.
Shape Sleeve
Increase Round: K1, make 1 left (m1L), knit to last stitch, make 1 right (m1R), k1. [2 stitches increased]
Continuing in stockinette stitch, repeat Increase Round every 7th (6th, 6th, 5th, 5th) (4th, 4th, 4th, 4th) round 12 (18, 5, 22, 12) (29, 23, 22, 24) more times, then every 6th (0, 5th, 4th, 4th) (0, 3rd, 3rd, 3rd) round 4 (0, 16, 1, 14) (0, 8, 10, 8) time(s). [86 (94, 104, 112, 122) (132, 138, 142, 144) stitches]
Continue in stockinette stitch until piece measures 16¾ (16¾, 17, 17½, 17¾) (17¾, 17¾, 18, 18¼) inches from cast-on edge.
Next Round: K5 (7, 9, 11, 13) (15, 17, 19, 21), place previous 10 (14, 18, 22, 26) (30, 34, 38, 42) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn (removing end-of-round marker), knit to end of round. [76 (80, 86, 90, 96) (102, 104, 104, 102) stitches remain]
Cut yarn.
Place remaining stitches onto stitch holders or scrap yarn and set aside. This will be the Right Sleeve.
Make Left Sleeve same as Right Sleeve, but leave the 76 (80, 86, 90, 96) (102, 104, 104, 102) Sleeve stitches on double pointed needles and set aside.
Body
Using a Long Tail Cast On, cast 224 (252, 280, 308, 336) (364, 392, 420, 448) stitches onto longer circular needles.
Place unique marker for end of round and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch for 8 rounds.
Next Round: Work Cording Stitch to end of round.
Shape Bottom Edge
NOTE: In this section, you will be working back and forth in short rows, turning the work partway through each row. For extra help, see Special Instructions.
Short Row 1 (right side): K75 (84, 93, 103, 112) (121, 131, 140, 149), wrp-t (see Special Instructions).
Short Row 2 (wrong side): P38 (42, 46, 52, 56) (60, 66, 70, 74), wrp-t.
Short Row 3: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k3 (4, 5, 5, 6) (7, 7, 8, 9), wrp-t.
Short Row 4: Purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p3 (4, 5, 5, 6) (7, 7, 8, 9), wrp-t.
Short Row 5: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k2 (3, 4, 4, 4) (5, 5, 6, 6), wrp-t.
Short Row 6: Purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p2 (3, 4, 4, 4) (5, 5, 6, 6), wrp-t.
Short Rows 7-12: Repeat Short Rows 5 and 6 three more times.
Short Row 13: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k2 (2, 2, 3, 3) (3, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t.
Short Row 14: Purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p2 (2, 2, 3, 3) (3, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t.
Short Rows 15-20: Repeat Short Rows 13 and 14 three more times.
Short Row 21: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k1 (1, 1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 2, 3), wrp-t.
Short Row 22: Purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p1 (1, 1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 2, 3), wrp-t.
Short Rows 23-28: Repeat Short Rows 21 and 22 three more times.
Short Row 29: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k75 (84, 93, 103, 112) (121, 131, 140, 149), wrp-t.
Repeat Short Rows 2 through 28 once more.
Next Short Row (right side): Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, slip marker.
Next Round: *Knit purl-wrapped stitch with its wrap (see Special Instructions), knit to next purl-wrapped stitch, knit purl-wrapped stitch with its wrap, knit to end of round.
Continue Body
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, until piece measures 14 (14, 13¾, 13½, 13¼) (13¼, 13½, 13¾, 14) inches from cast-on edge (measured at longest point, either at center Back or center Front).
Divide Front + Back
Division Round: K5 (7, 9, 11, 13) (15, 17, 19, 21), place previous 10 (14, 18, 22, 26) (30, 34, 38, 42) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn for Left Underarm (removing end-of-round marker); k112 (126, 140, 154, 168) (182, 196, 210, 224), place previous 10 (14, 18, 22, 26) (30, 34, 38, 42) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn for Right Underarm; knit to Left Underarm (next stitch holder). [204 (224, 244, 264, 284) (304, 324, 344, 364) stitches remain: 102 (112, 122, 132, 142) (152, 162, 172, 182) stitches each for Front and Back]
Yoke
Join Sleeves
NOTE: For help with this section, please visit our Joining Sleeves To Body Tutorial.
Joining Round: Holding Underarms parallel to each other, use working yarn from Body to k76 (80, 86, 90, 96) (102, 104, 104, 102) Left Sleeve stitches, pm; k102 (112, 122, 132, 142) (152, 162, 172, 182) Front stitches, pm; slip on-hold Right Sleeve stitches onto spare needles and holding Underarms parallel to each other, k76 (80, 86, 90, 96) (102, 104, 104, 102) Right Sleeve stitches, pm; k102 (112, 122, 132, 142) (152, 162, 172, 182) Back stitches, place unique marker for end-of-round. [356 (384, 416, 444, 476) (508, 532, 552, 568) total stitches: 102 (112, 122, 132, 142) (152, 162, 172, 182) stitches each for Front and Back; 76 (80, 86, 90, 96) (102, 104, 104, 102) stitches for each Sleeve]
Begin Shaping Raglan
SIZE 32 ONLY
Next Round: Knit to end of round.
Sleeve Decrease Round: [K1, slip slip knit (ssk), knit to 3 stitches before next marker, knit 2 together (k2tog), k1, slip marker (sm), knit to next marker, sm] 2 times. [4 stitches decreased]
Repeat last 2 rounds once more. [348 total stitches: 102 stitches each for Front and Back; 72 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Round: Knit to end of round.
SIZES 36 AND 40 ONLY
Next Round: Knit to end of round.
SIZES 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, AND 64 ONLY
Next Round: Knit to end of round.
Body Decrease Round: [Knit to next marker, slip marker (sm), k1, slip slip knit (ssk), knit to 3 stitches before next marker, knit 2 together (k2tog), k1, sm] 2 times. [4 stitches decreased]
Repeat Body Decrease Round – (–, –, 2, 3) (3, 7, 11, 15) more times. [– (–, –, 432, 460) (492, 500, 504, 504) total stitches: – (–, –, 126, 134) (144, 146, 148, 150) stitches each for Front and Back; – (–, –, 90, 96) (102, 104, 104, 102) stitches for each Sleeve]
ALL SIZES
Raglan Decrease Round: [K1, slip slip knit (ssk), knit to 3 stitches before next marker, knit 2 together (k2tog), k1, slip marker (sm)] 4 times. [8 stitches decreased]
Continuing in stockinette stitch, repeat Raglan Decrease Round every round 0 (0, 2, 4, 6) (10, 14, 16, 16) more times, then every other round 23 (27, 28, 27, 28) (27, 23, 21, 20) more times. [156 (160, 168, 176, 180) (188, 196, 200, 208) total stitches remain: 54 (56, 60, 62, 64) (68, 70, 72, 76) stitches each for Front and Back; 24 (24, 24, 26, 26) (26, 28, 28, 28) stitches for each Sleeve]
Set Up Neckline + Shoulder Shaping
Set-Up Round: Knit to next marker, sm, k36 (38, 41, 43, 45) (48, 50, 52, 55), place previous 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) (28, 30, 32, 34) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn for Front Neckline, knit to end of round. [138 (140, 146, 152, 154) (160, 166, 168, 174) total stitches remain: 18 (18, 19, 19, 19) (20, 20, 20, 21) stitches each for Left and Right Front; 54 (56, 60, 62, 64) (68, 70, 72, 76) stitches for Back; 24 (24, 24, 26, 26) (26, 28, 28, 28) stitches for each Sleeve]
Cut yarn.
Slip the following markers and stitches from left needle to right needle: slip end-of-round marker, slip 24 (24, 24, 26, 26) (26, 28, 28, 28) Left Sleeve stitches, sm, slip 18 (18, 19, 19, 19) (20, 20, 20, 21) Left Front stitches.
The stitch marker at Back Left now serves as a raglan marker instead of end-of-round marker, and the Front Neckline now marks the end of row.
SHAPE NECKLINE + SHOULDERS
NOTE: In this section you will again be working back and forth in short rows, turning the work partway through each row.
With right side facing you, join yarn to Right Front stitches…
Short Row 1 (right side): [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 4 times, knit to last stitch, wrp-t. [130 (132, 138, 144, 146) (152, 158, 160, 166) total stitches remain: 17 (17, 18, 18, 18) (19, 19, 19, 20) stitches for each Front; 52 (54, 58, 60, 62) (66, 68, 70, 74) stitches for Back; 22 (22, 22, 24, 24) (24, 26, 26, 26) stitches for each Sleeve]
Short Row 2 (wrong side): Purl to last stitch, wrp-t.
Short Row 3: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 4 times, knit to last 5 stitches, wrp-t. [122 (124, 130, 136, 138) (144, 150, 152, 158) total stitches remain: 16 (16, 17, 17, 17) (18, 18, 18, 19) stitches for each Front; 50 (52, 56, 58, 60) (64, 66, 68, 72) stitches for Back; 20 (20, 20, 22, 22) (22, 24, 24, 24) stitches for each Sleeve]
Short Row 4: Purl to last 5 stitches, wrp-t.
Short Row 5: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 4 times, knit to last 8 stitches, wrp-t. [114 (116, 122, 128, 130) (136, 142, 144, 150) total stitches remain: 15 (15, 16, 16, 16) (17, 17, 17, 18) stitches for each Front; 48 (50, 54, 56, 58) (62, 64, 66, 70) stitches for Back; 18 (18, 18, 20, 20) (20, 22, 22, 22) stitches for each Sleeve]
Short Row 6: Purl to last 8 stitches, wrp-t.
Short Row 7: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 4 times, knit to last 10 (10, 11, 11, 11) (11, 12, 12, 12) stitches, wrp-t. [106 (108, 114, 120, 122) (128, 134, 136, 142) total stitches remain: 14 (14, 15, 15, 15) (16, 16, 16, 17) stitches for each Front; 46 (48, 52, 54, 56) (60, 62, 64, 68) stitches for Back; 16 (16, 16, 18, 18) (18, 20, 20, 20) stitches for each Sleeve]
Short Row 8: Purl to last 10 (10, 11, 11, 11) (11, 12, 12, 12) stitches, wrp-t.
Short Row 9: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 3 times, knit to 4 stitches before next marker, wrp-t. [100 (102, 108, 114, 116) (122, 128, 130, 136) total stitches remain: 13 (13, 14, 14, 14) (15, 15, 15, 16) stitches for Right Front; 14 (14, 14, 16, 16) (16, 18, 18, 18) stitches for Right Sleeve; 44 (46, 50, 52, 54) (58, 60, 62, 66) stitches for Back; 15 (15, 15, 17, 17) (17, 19, 19, 19) stitches for Left Sleeve; 14 (14, 15, 15, 15) (16, 16, 16, 17) stitches for Left Front]
Short Row 10: [Purl to next marker, sm] 2 times, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Short Row 11: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 2 times, k1, wrp-t. [96 (98, 104, 110, 112) (118, 124, 126, 132) total stitches remain: 13 (13, 14, 14, 14) (15, 15, 15, 16) stitches for Right Front; 13 (13, 13, 15, 15) (15, 17, 17, 17) stitches for Right Sleeve; 42 (44, 48, 50, 52) (56, 58, 60, 64) stitches for Back; 14 (14, 14, 16, 16) (16, 18, 18, 18) stitches for Left Sleeve; 14 (14, 15, 15, 15) (16, 16, 16, 17) stitches for Left Front]
Short Row 12: [Purl to next marker, sm] 2 times, p3, wrp-t.
Short Row 13: Knitting wrapped stitches with their wraps as you come to them, [k2tog, k1, remove marker, k1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker] 2 times, k2tog, k1, remove marker, k1, ssk, knit to end of row. [90 (92, 98, 104, 106) (112, 118, 120, 126) total stitches remain: 13 (13, 14, 14, 14) (15, 15, 15, 16) stitches for each Front; 40 (42, 46, 48, 50) (54, 56, 58, 62) stitches for Back; 12 (12, 12, 14, 14) (14, 16, 16, 16) stitches for each Sleeve]
Neckband
Changing to shorter needles, place a unique marker to indicate end of round.
Round 1: With right side facing you, k18 (20, 22, 24, 26) (28, 30, 32, 34) on-hold Front Neckline stitches, knit to end of round, knitting remaining wrapped stitches with their wraps and removing remaining raglan markers as you come to them. [108 (112, 120, 128, 132) (140, 148, 152, 160) stitches]
Continue in stockinette stitch for 3 rounds.
Next Round: Work Cording Stitch to end of round.
Continue in stockinette stitch for 2 rounds.
Bind off all stitches loosely.
Finishing
NOTE: For help with Kitchener Stitch, visit our tutorial.
Holding Body and Sleeve Underarms stitches parallel to each other, use Kitchener Stitch to graft Underarm stitches together. Sew up any holes, if necessary.
Weave in the ends and block as desired.
Why in the world would we have to use 75 sheets of paper and loads of ink just for one pattern. It’s not because it’s free because I would gladly buy the pattern
But it’s really wasteful to use all of that paper and ink.
Hi Kelly,
Thanks for writing in! We do have a print option that is far shorter! If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images, all of the images or the list of materials.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thanks for the printing hint I didn’t notice the print button initially either 🙂
Any reason you couldn’t do the sleeves two-at-a-time using Magic Loop or just using two circular needles?
Hi Michele,
Great question! You absolutely can! Just be sure to put a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your row and you will be all set!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Hi
I love reading through the comments and questions and your responses. I find them so helpful and a great reference point when I am bit confused. I am considering knitting this pattern with a 3/4 length sleeve. Can you advise how I calculate my casting on point, no. of stitches and the relevant section of the pattern to work from. I am impatiently waiting on the yarn to come to Australia!
Thank you
Julie
Hi Julie,
I’m glad you are excited about this pattern! So sorry for the lat reply! In order to give you more advice I’ll need to know which size you plan on doing. Generally, a 3/4 sleeve will start 4 1/2 – 5″ up from the wrist. Let me know!
-Adam
Hi,
Thank you for the wonderful pattern, have been looking for something like this for awhile. I have a bit of a stash, and would like to use dk wool I bought in new Zealand a few years back if possible. Could you tell me if this will Work?
Thanks,
Margaret
Hi Margaret,
Thanks for your question and your kind words! The Linen Quill used for this pattern is a light fingering weight, roughly 6-7 inches per inch. DK comes in at 5-6 inches per inch. DK is quite a bit heavier than the yarn used in this pattern. To get gauge on the suggested needles, I think that fabric would lose the drape. That said, go ahead and swatch and see if you like the fabric.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I’ll be using the size 40. Will there be enough yarn to extend the torso several inches? I have a long waist.
Hi AG,
Great question! I do think that you should have enough yarn to make the torso a few inches longer. The 40, 44 and 48 inch chest all call for 4 skeins. Given that you are making the smallest size in the range, I think that you can easily make the torso at least 4 inches longer.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Is the Linen Quill easily washable?
Hi Alison,
Thank you for your question! The washing instructions for Linen Quill are to hand wash. We love using Soak wool wash. Fill a basin with luke warm water and a squeeze of Soak. Submerge the knitted item, being sure to agitate the item a minimum. Leave the item soaking for at least 15 minutes. Squeeze out the water, being sure not to wring the item and lay flat to dry on a clean towel.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi,
I’ve (finally!) joined the 3 pieces and I’m working the raglan shaping/decreases but my decreases do not look like yours (in your top photos). I only have one ‘ridge’ at the decrease ….from either the ssk or k2tog but in your photos I see 2 ridges at each decrease….maybe I’m doing my decreases wrong? It’s been a fun pattern to knit (and I have linen quill in a different color for a 2nd sweater!). Thanks for your help.
Hi Susan,
That’s great news! I’m so happy you love the pattern! Make sure that you are looking at the part of the raglan shaping section where it says “for all sizes”. This is actually where you do the raglan decrease repeat. Each decrease round should have eight decreases all around the sweater (two at each raglan line). The decreases happen on each side of the raglan line where your markers lie. Let me know if you have any questions! I hope this helped!
Happy knitting,
Adam
Hi – I just did a swatch in Linen Quill for this sweater and I’m getting 28 sts by 35 rows. Will I have to make adjustments in any of the lengths where the pattern uses rows instead of inches? And should I buy one more skein if I’m making the 44″ version because of this?
Thanks,
nancy
Hi Nancy,
Honestly that is a pretty close gauge! Congrats! Because the body portion deals in inches you will not have to worry about your row gauge there. For the yoke section you will be fine because the chest section is actually pretty roomy. Your gauge should work out!
Happy knitting,
Adam
Thanks Adam – I did do what was suggested for the gauge (the sloppy looking circular needle thingee) – I learn something new every time I do one of your projects and I love it!
Hi Nancy,
I hope it all worked out well! Good luck!
-Adam
I am finishing up my first sleeve, but I am using two circulars, rather than the DPN’s (I have been learning to knit socks on two circulars and the lady in the local yarn shop suggested this might be easier for me). I have knitted the first sleeve to 16 3/4″ from cast on edge. So…
I knit 5, then put the previous 10 stitches (meaning the 10 stitches on the other needle – the last ten of the round) onto scrap yarn, then continue with my round, leaving me with 76 stitches (I’m making the smallest size). This is a bit confusing to me, so I wanted to make sure. Thanks so much. This is my first garment ever!
Hi Tricia,
Thanks you for writing in and congrats on your first garment ever! How exciting! For the underarm stitches you knit five beyond your beginning of round marker and then slip these five plus the five stitches before the beginning of round marker on to a holder. I hope this makes sense! Best of luck and let me know if you have any other questions!
-Adam
I am having trouble with this part of the instructions as well. I am knitting the size 36. I knit 7 stitches after marker and picked up 7 stitches before the marker, putting 14 sts onto stitch holder. Your answer above clarified that I shouldn’t have 21 sts on the holder. However, I don’t understand how to “knit to the end” as my yarn is on stitch holder and the other end of my circular needle is on the opposite side of the stitch holder. This is my first garment with sleeves and I am very confused.
Hi Sonia,
Sorry this is confusing! I had trouble with this on my first sweater too! When you are at the beginning of round you will knit 7 and place the previous 14 (meaning the 7 you just knit and the 7 before the marker) on to a holder. Your yarn should be coming from the very last stitch you slipped on to the holder, letting you continue in the round. Once you knit 126 st. you will place 14 stitches on a holder and your working yarn will be coming from the closest stitch to your live knitting. You are actively knitting around and setting yourself up for the armholes at the same time. I hope this makes sense! Let me know if you have any questions!
-Adam
I’ve read and reread the pattern. But I can’t see what I’m working for. After working the short rows portion along the bottom of the sweater, I can’t see where it explains how to count out and create the short rows on the other side. (I assume I’ll follow just as written, but I need to know where to begin.) It looks in the photos as though short rows and a curved hem are on both sides. By the way, the Linen Quill is absolutely delightful to knit with!
Hi Jennie,
Thanks for writing in and so glad you love the yarn! In short row 29 you knit the last wrap with its corresponding stitch and then knit 75 (84, 93, 103, 112), depending on the size you are making. This will take you to the correct point on the other side in which you’ll wrap and turn and start the short row shaping again from row 2. I hope this helps you out! Please write back if you have any other questions!
Best,
Adam
loving this pattern, thanks so much for creating it and for providing this way to ask questions. I have worked both sleeves, and now am doing the second set of short rows. it seems to me that the short rows of the first section do not reach all the way to both edges of the sweater. does that make sense? I am starting the second set and worry that the bottom will turn out to be lopsided. thanks for any thoughts…
Hi Katherine,
Thanks for writing in! Also, sorry this is giving you trouble! It’s very important that your short rows end at the beginning of round and the side seam in order to start the second side’s shaping. Maybe you forgot to do a short row? The math works out in the pattern, so I would count up your rows and make sure that you have the correct amount. Please let me know how this goes! And don’t hesitate to write back in with questions!
-Adam
thanks, Adam. It looks like I will probably need to start over. that’s ok, this is fun to knit. –Katherine
Hi, I’m currently knitting this project (thanks for the pattern for my first sweater!) and I’ve come up to the shaping the neck and shoulders without much trouble.
I do not understand something: The pattern says, Knit to next marker, sm, k36 (38, 41, 43, 45), place previous 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn for Front Neckline
What does ‘previous’ stitches refer to? After you knit 36, do you put the stitches before the marker on waste yarn?
Help! Thanks.
Hi Asli,
Great question! Placing the previous stitches on a stitch holder refers to the last 18 stitches that you knit. So if you are knitting the smallest size and the directions say to knit 36, you will knit 36 and then place the last 18 stitches of that 36 onto the stitch holder. Previous, in these situations will refer to the very last thing that you did and not to an earlier place in the round.
I hope that this helps and best of luck on the rest of the sweater!
Cassy
Thank you! I’m almost done. Very nice pattern, will make another one for a friend,
Finished the wonderful ‘Lightweight Raglan Pullover’, a quick, easy knit! I love it, both the yarn and color! Will make more…. Have a wonderful weekend!
Hello,
Is it possible to knit the sleeves flat instead of in the round?
Thank you!
Hi Susie,
Thanks for writing in! You can certainly knit these sleeves flat instead of in the round but you may need to do a little modifcation of your own to make them work. I would just be sure to add 1 stitch on each side to accommodate sewing up the arms (i.e. instead of casting on 52, cast on 54). Always knit these added stitches before going on to knit the rest.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I’ve just done the bottom scallop for the second time and have the same problem that the sides between scallops is not the same. Am I doing something wrong? When I knit back to a turn gap, I then knit the extra stitches mentioned for each row, am I missing knitting a stitch after the turn gap before doing the extra stitches? Hope this makes sense, it’s the only thing I can think of to change.
Hi Sheryl,
Thanks for writing in. The short row section of this sweater is tricky! You might have cast on the wrong number or misplaced your side seam marker. I’d double check that half your stitches are on the front and half are on the back. Also, I would pay extra attention to which step of the short row you are on as the amount you knit past the wrap and turn varies. Sometimes I make a chart in excel for these types of directions. A row counter also never hurts! I’m sorry I can’t pin point the problem but hopefully I’ve lead you in the right direction!
-Adam
I figured out the problem, I hadn’t paid attention to the end of the short row tutorial when I knit to the wrap. It’s now sorted but took me to the third time before I caught on. Thanks for your help, it’s good to read others’ queries and your response. Love the wool too. Sheryl
Ce modele est ravissant. Je souhaiterai le tricoter pour le noel de ma fille. Quelqu’un l’aurait-il traduit en français…Merci merci
Merci beaucoup!
A ce moment on n’a pas les resources de traduire nos directions mais peut-être à l’avenir!
Merci,
Adam
Hey there! I’m excited to make this sweater, however I wanted to make it in a yarn that’s 95% wool and 5% cashmere. Would you anticipate any differences in size/drape/etc. apart from the fact that linen is lighter?
Thank you!
— Sara
Hi Sara,
This all depends on the yarn you choose, how it is spun and the quality of the wool. The Linen Quill has a lot of highland wool in it, so that makes it textural and the alpaca gives it it’s softness. The linen also adds texture and a cool hand-feel. If you knit this in a wool/cashmere blend, then I would assume the sweater would be heavier. However, since this pattern uses lace weight to fingering weight yarn it would still come out pretty light and “drapy” in a wool/cashmere blend. I’d do a swatch and see if you like it!
Best,
Adam
Hi I’m currently in the midst of the project and I was wondering two things: when it is ok to switch from the DPK to the shorter circular needles and how can I keep from adding stitches on the sleeve? The pattern says knit to the last stitch does this mean to the stitch marker or the stitch right before. (sleeve)
Thanks,
Cara
Hi Cara,
Thanks for writing in! You can switch from the DPNs to the circular needle when you have enough stitches to make it around the cord. The sleeve is increased, so I’m not sure what you mean by not wanting to add stitches. Finally, when it says to knit to the last stitch, you will be knitting up to the stitch before the marker. So, for example, you will see one stitch on your left needle and then the marker. I hope this clears things up! Let me know if you have any other questions!
-Adam
Hi!
I am thoroughly enjoying knitting this pattern but just wanted to check that after joining the sleeves to the main body in a size 36, does one omit the sleeve decrease round (as for size 32)& the body decrease round (as for sizes 44 & 48) and go straight on to the raglan decrease round?
Many thanks
Kirsten
Hi Kirsten!
Thank you for the question and the kind words! After joining the sleeves to the body, for the size 36 you will knit one round (as it says “for sizes 36 and 40 only”) and then jump to the directions that say “for all sizes”. I hope this helps you out! Let me know if you have any questions!
-Adam
Help! I’m starting to see the light thru the tunnel on my first pullover. I’m starting the neckband and just knit the 20 on-hold Front Neckline stitches. (size 36). But as I knit the succeeding stitches for the remaining right front stitches, there is a big gap between the sts on hold. I assume it’s because of the additional rows that were knit as the 20 sts were on hold and not worked on. How do I fix the big hole which unfortunately is right in front? Did I miss something?
Hi Sonia,
So happy you are almost there! Hope you’ll like the end result! This happens from time to time when knitting necklines or anywhere you divide and gets better with practice. For now you should just leave it and sew it up on the back of the work to close the hole when you are finished with the garment. In the future, make sure you tension the yarn tight and hand manipulate the stitches to close up the hole before you continue on in the round. This will help a bit, but for some reason if there is going to be a hole, you can’t help it! Some yarns just don’t fill in. Best of luck and congrats!
-Adam
Hello! I have been knitting hats, scarves, and blankets for almost three years now and am ready to take the plunge into sweaters! I was looking at this pattern as well as the classic hemmed crew neck. Which pattern (not necessarily out of those two if there’s a better choice for beginners!) is best for those of us embarking on their first sweater?
Thank you so much!
Hi Veronica,
How exciting! I actually suggest the Classic Hemmed Crewneck for a beginner sweater pattern because the yarn is larger and it doesn’t involve as much short row shaping. Once you finish the Crewneck, you’ll totally be ready to embark upon the Lightweight Raglan Pullover. Best of luck!
-Adam
Hi- love this pattern, just what I was looking for! I wanted to make it for my husband since it doesn’t seem to have any feminine shaping and it’s just the t-shirt style that would suit him. Do you think if I just lengthen the sleeves after all the increases and lengthen the body after the bottom edge shaping I would be ok?
He’s a medium slim build, so I was going to go with finished chest of 40″ to have a loose fit. I was going to increase the length another 1.5″ total 28″ and for the sleeve I’m not sure because of the raglan shaping. I have a pattern that’s 27″ from shoulder to cuff that seems like a good length… but I don’t know how to calculate the shoulder cap length. In your professional opinion, would this work, or will it look out of proportion?
Thanks for any help!
Kate
Hi Kate,
thanks for the kind words! The best thing to do is measure your husband! First you’ll want to measure the side seam from his underarm to where you want the sweater to hit. This is the length you’ll want to go for (from the side) when knitting the sweater. As for the underarm length, you’ll want to measure an inch below his armpit to his wrist to see how long you’ll need to make the sleeves before joining to the body. However, since his shoulders are probably broader than a woman’s, you’ll probably want to make the sleeves a bit longer since his shoulders will take up more fabric in the raglan. Adding about an inch or two will keep the sleeves from riding up and looking cropped. Best of luck!
-Adam
I am about to join the sleeves to the separated body of the sweater. But I’ve got one extra stitch on the back of the body! (for size 32, I have 103 stitches on the back, 102 on the front). Not sure how that happened. But now that I’m here, what is the best way to reduce the back to 102, so I can follow all the short rows and decreases properly?
Thank you.
Hi Janet,
Thanks for writing us! Do not fear — one stitch is not the end of the world! What I would do is knit 2 together right before or after your stitches on hold on the back side. This will even things out and nobody will notice a k2tog on the underarm! Best of luck!
-Adam
Hi! Would I be able to change the neckline to a vneck? If so, how should I figure it out?
Hi Carol,
Thanks for writing in! It may well be possible to change the neckline of this sweater to a v-neck but it would require quite a bit of rewriting of the pattern. At the moment, we do not have the resources to do so. We will certainly keep your request in mind for the future!
Thank you again for your suggestion!
Cassy
Hi! I’m planning to knit this pullover in the size 40, and I plan to use a cotton yarn, but my skeins are smaller than the ones used in this pattern (about 170y) … To buy the right quantity and not have too much left at the end, how much yarn is needed for this size?
Thank you for your help, and this gorgeous pattern!
Hi Morgane,
Thanks for writing in and for the kind words! You’ll need approximately 1400 yards of lace-fingering weight yarn for the size 40. Best of luck!
-Adam
Hi! At the moment I’m knittung the body of the pullover with a yarn of merino wool. I already worked the cording stitch, the short row and some rows in stockinette stitch. And I can see that the bottom edge is coiling up. What can I do against that? Thank you!
Hi Reni,
Thanks for the question. The answer is that this will all flatten out in wet blocking! The tuck stitch will stop curling very well after you block the garment. Let us know how it goes!
-Adam
Hi there, I love this sweater and want to knit it, but I have a question regarding sizing. I think I should knit a size 40, but does “40 inches around the bust” include the 1-3 inches of ease or would a 40 end up being more between 41-43″ depending on the amount of ease? Also, when I block this beautiful yarn, will there be any shrinkage? Thanks in advance for your help.
Hi Paula,
Thanks for the question! The size of the sweater, say 40″, means that the finished garment will have a chest measurement of 40″. So, if you have a 40″ chest, you should knit the 44″ size to account for the ease. Regarding shrinkage, this yarn actually expands and relaxes like most wools when wet blocked. Steam blocking will give you less expansion, but since there is linen in the yarn you’ll really want to wet block the finished garment. Best of luck!
-Adam
Hi Purl Soho Folks!
I’m wondering if you could give me some guidance for making the sleeves and length of body for this pattern a little longer. I’m quite tall, about 6’0″ and would love for the sleeves to be longer to fit me! Should I simply add more rounds between each increase? Or is a wiser idea to make more stitches so that the sleeves are slightly roomier than pictured? I’ll be making the size 32, and I believe I have four skeins of Linen Quill, which I hope will be enough.
Thanks so much for your guidance! I’m looking forward to making my very first sweater!
-Micah
Hi Micah,
Thanks for writing us! If you want to make the body longer you should simply measure from an inch from your underarm to where you’d like the side seam to stop. This is the length you knit for the body portion. As for the sleeves, if you increase every 8th round 12 times and then every 7th round 4 times you will end up with 16 more rounds each sleeve. This comes to roughly 2″ more length. Do you think this enough? Let me know! Also, you should be fine with the four skeins!
-Adam
From the moment I saw this sweater I knew it would be perfect for my daughter. Lots of interesting details in this pattern and I enjoyed learning some new techniques. I was concerned about the curling at the lower edge and I shouldn’t have fretted. I wet blocked the finished sweater and it turned out beautifully. She loved it. I especially like the simple but polished details in many of your patterns and I look forward to my next project.
Diane
I just took this off the needles. Very much enjoyed this pattern. However, the hem at the bottom is curling badly. I am not very confident that blocking will help this. I followed the pattern and did the cording stitch. Is the problem related to my yarn choice? (100% merino – Ella Rae Lace Meriino)
I will block using pins to hopefully uncurl the hem, but, I am afraid that after an hour or wear, it will begin to curl which will be most unflattering. 🙁
Hi Shelly,
Thanks for writing in! Blocking will certainly help this flatten out. We use a wool/alpaca/flax blend, so we might have had an easier time flattening out the bottom compared to a merino. If you are having trouble when blocking, you can aggressively pin the curve down. Blocking is quite magical!
-Adam
Could you add any directions, or help, on making this a short sleeve sweater? I have seen one on Ravelry, but the knitter made this modification. Would just need to know how many stitches to cast on and where to go from there. Or could they be knot top down
Thanks
Hi Amanda,
Thanks for the question. I would have to know which size you plan on doing in order to help you adjust this. Thanks!
-Adam
Beautiful beautiful textural wool that I am loving the looks of while I knit this sweater!
Unfortunately I am REALLY having a difficult time understanding the raglan decrease! Somehow I have only four markers on my sweater – so if the instructions call for me to: knit one, ssk, then knit to the next marker; my next marker is on the other side of the sleeve, leaving me only one decrease at the beginning of the sleeve and one decrease on the other end. Clearly there are two lines of decreases, but I can’t, for the life of me, figure out how many stitches between the ssk and the k2tog decrease. I have read the instructions over and over again to see if I have missed placing markers somewhere, but am still puzzled.
Hi Gwen,
Thanks for writing in! You are getting it correct! You decrease on either side of each sleeve. So you will be decreasing one stitch on one side of the sleeve and one stitch on the other side of the sleeve. At this stage, you will have only 4 markers, the ones on either side of each sleeve and you will be decreasing just 4 stitches on each decrease round, one on each side of each sleeve. From what you describe, it sounds like you are doing exactly the right thing! The second line that you see will begin further into the raglan decrease when you start seeing 8 stitches decreased at the end of a line description! Continue on and everything should work out!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi!
Loving this sweater! Its only my second sweater project and I’m working hard to refine some basic skills to make this a wearable piece that I can be proud of. Cannot wait to wear it! I’m so close to the end. I am beginning to shape the neckline and shoulders…and I’m stuck at this instruction:
“with right side facing you, join yarn to Right Front stitches…”
I have placed my neckline stitches on a scrap piece of yarn, knitted to the end of that round and cut my yarn as instructed. Then I slipped my markers and stitches to the front of the neckline (where I have held stitches). I am about to work my short rows…but how do I “join yarn to Right Front stitches?” Normally there is a handy you tube tutorial that can clarify issues and skills as I knit but I am perplexed just how and where to “join” my yarn. Also, what happens with the cut yarn I left behind before I slipped to the front neckline? I am assuming I am leaving these held stitches for the time being?
I read through all previous comments and questions to make sure the answer wasn’t already there for me but I don’t seem to see other knitters with this issue. All the knitters who have arrived at the top portion seem to have questions about the raglan shaping or had no trouble with this. What am I missing?
So confused.
Megan
Hi Megan,
Thanks for writing in and sorry you are having trouble with this pattern. You are not going to like how easy this sounds but “join yarn” literally means to pick up a fresh end of yarn and start knitting with it. When you slipped the stitches from the left needle to the right you changed your position in the work and had to cut the working yarn. Now you’ll need to join a new piece of yarn to knit the neckline. Since you’ll be working the neckline in short rows, you will now treat the stitches to the right and left of the held stitches as the end and beginning of the work. Hope this helps a bit!
-Adam
I am at the same spot as the precious writer. I’m confused because after slipping all the stitches before starting the short rows I ended up on the left front edge of the front neckline and the pattern says with right side facing join yarn to the right front stitches. But my needles are on the left front .
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for the question! Right front in this case means “wearer’s right front”. So, when you are looking at your knitting with the right side facing you, the stitches on your left needle are the wearer’s right front. It’s from here where you start your short rows. I hope this makes sense. Let me know if you have any other questions.
All the best,
Adam
I am making the sweater without the short rows. It will be straight across at the bottom. How do I shape the neckline and shoulders without the short rows? (I have not done short rows before and found it too difficult with this thin yarn – next project I will get to that). Thanks!
Hi Emily,
Thanks for the question. Unfortunately we cannot customize the neckline to not have short rows. That’s how the pattern is written. My suggestion would be to put your front neck stitches on hold and work the neck flat with decreases. This way, however, does not account for back neck shaping. Best of luck and let us know if you have any other questions!
-Adam
I have 10 5 gram skeins of merino natural thorobred. Is this suitable for this pattern ((lightweight raglan pullover))?
Hi Cindy,
Thanks for the question. Unfortunately 10 five gram skeins will not be enough for this sweater. You’ll need around 300 grams of fingering weight yarn for the smallest size. Thanks again!
-Adam
I started to make the body of the sweater and am ready to start the short rows. I thought I had 280 sts on the needle but realize I have only 270. I don’t think it will matter in the fit, but wonder about the directions for the short rows, how will this impact the shaping? Do I need to make an adjustment, can I follow the directions as written, or do I need to rip?
Thanks!
Laurie
Hi Laurie,
Thanks for writing in. Since the short row directions have you knit to a certain amount before the end of the row you can follow them without adjusting the pattern. Since I don’t know where you have lost stitches you should double check that your neckline is centered. I’d also double count your front, back and sleeve stitches to see where you made the mistake. If the mistake is not so far from where you are now, then I would rip back to make sure the shape isn’t affected. Hope this helps!
-Adam
Hi, I absolutely love this yarn and pattern! I have just finished the sleeves and now I’m working the bottom edge. I have just started the short rows (my first time doing short rows, thank you for the wonderful tutorial). My question is on short row 3, I’m supossed to knit to wrapped stitch. Do I knit to the wrapped stitch from short row 2 or short row 1? Thank you so much for any help! This is my second sweater ever and I’m so excited for it!
-Ann
Hi Ann,
Thanks for the lovely compliment! On short row three you’ll knit to the wrap from short row one, pick up that wrap and knit however many beyond that based on the size you are following. All odd row short rows correspond to each other and the same for even ones. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Adam
I just got to “shape neckline + shoulders”. My sleeve stitch count is 20 on each side somehow, but my body is the correct 56 on each. I’m trying to decide if I should attempt to re-do the math/pattern for my 20 sleeve stitches (though I’m not sure that this is possible), end it where it is and ditch shaping the neckline, or doing a few more rows and adding those four stitches back to the sleeves. What suggestions do you have that do not involve unknitting? This pattern has given me a lot of trouble so I cannot possibly go through that. Thank you! Chris.
Hi Chris,
Thanks for writing in! I think that you should continue with the neck shaping even though you don’t have the correct amount of sleeve stitches. While shaping the neck you’ll simultaneously decrease at the raglan marks. The final short row for the neck leaves you with 12 stitches at each sleeve. My advice is to shape the neck as the pattern states until you have 12 stitches in both sleeve sections. From there you’ll only decrease outside the sleeve sections where necessary. This is the simplest way to continue the pattern without ripping out.
All the best,
Adam
I am having a very hard time with cording on the sleeve and have torn out my knitting 4 times. Is there a secret or trick that will help me count 4 down to pick up the stitch? Thanks
Hi Susan,
Thanks for the question. Unfortunately there is no trick to making the cording stitch. You just have to be very careful when picking up your stitches. Something that you can do is use a contrast color when starting the cording section. This helps because you can see exactly where to pick up. It also makes all the edges look like piping, which I think is a sharp look. Best of luck and keep trying!
-Adam
Thanks, Adam! I used a contrasting color ( plus the main color) on the fourth row from the bottom, and that made it easier to find and pick up the stitch. Then I just pulled out the contrasting color. Great suggestion!
Glad it helped!! 😀
Hi purl team, thank you very much for your lovely pattern. this is my first purl pattern and I’m going to do many others. at the moment I’m stuck in the shape neckline and shoulder part. I knitted rows 3 and 4, leaving 5 stiches at the end of each one, no prob ; but on row 5, it’s written to leave 8 stiches. my question is : do you mean the 5 first and 8 more, i-e 13 st. or is it 8 including the 5 first ? does it make any sens.
I live in Brittany, west part of France and I used a yarn called Alpaga from la Droguerie.
thank you for your answer
Florence
Hi Florence,
Thanks for writing us! I hope you’ve enjoyed the pattern so far. In row 5 you’ll knit to 8 stitches before the end of the row. This includes the 5 previous stitches plus 3 more. I hope this helps!
-Adam
Thank you very much
Will this still drape nicely if knit with your line weight yarn? I got line weight because it’s softer, but realized that it won’t have quite the same drape as the linen quill blend!
Hi Nicole,
Thanks for the question. The Line Weight won’t have the same drape but it won’t be stiff since the gauge is pretty loose for this sweater. I think you’ll be fine! Plus, the sweater will be warmer.
All the best,
Adam
Thank you very much !
Hi !
When it says “work wrapped stitch with its wrap” does it means I need to knit 2 (the wrap stitch before the hole and the one after to close the gap that I see ??)
thanks !
Hi Kim,
Thanks for writing in! When you are coming back across where you have wrapped and turned, it is time to knit wrap stitch together with wrapped stitch. To do this, you will pick up the wrap with the right needle from front to back and then insert the right needle into the stitch that is wrapped and knit the wrap and the stitch together. For a photo tutorial, you can check out of short row tutorial page here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/short-rows/
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Hi, I need help with recalculation!
The sleeves turned out well, but when I started the body it was too large so I reduced the number of stitches. All went well until I approached the number of stitches for shaping the neckline and shoulders. I arrived at the needed number of stitches for front and back way ahead of the sleeve stitches. Obviously I had forgotten that the body stitch adjustment was in conflict with the sleeve stitches as per pattern instructions.
My thought was to rip out back to the beginning of the raglan and perhaps do the decrease every other row for the sleeves and every fourth row include the decrease for the front and back. I don’t know how this would work in terms of the raglan shaping and decided to ask for support in case there are better alternatives to make this join work.
Thanks in advance for your help,
Hi Sandy,
Thanks for writing in. Unfortunately we cannot customize patterns over the comments section but I can certainly guide you. If you cast on a certain amount, you’ll want to calculate the percentage greater or fewer stitches you have as compared to the original pattern. This percentage will act as a guide for how many stitches you leave for the sleeves, neckline, etc. Hope this helps!
-Adam
I am knitting this Purl Soho pattern with Linen Quill yarn.
It is going well but I would like to make the neckline a little lower than it appears in the model’s photo. (I am short and so is my neck, so highish necklines often aren’t flattering to me though boat neck is fine if not too high.)
I am knitting the size 36, and have decreased down to 64 sts front and back and feel I definitely don’t want to do the 8 more rows to get to 56 sts front and back as per pattern.
(I probably would have stopped at 66 sts front & back but though having 64 sts which matches one of the pattern sizes might be easier.)
I’d greatly appreciate it if you could give any advice on best way to approach a slightly lower neckline.
Even though I’m knitting size 36, would it work to follow the decrease numbers for the largest size, size 48 as it begins the neckline at 64 sts – or would neckline be too… big? And if I start the neckline 8-10 rows early, should I add some extra non-decrease rows in, in between the short row decreases in the 13-row section ‘Shape Neckline + Shoulders’.
I’ve knitted other cardigans and pullovers, but this is my first pullover in the round and first with any short-row shaping, apart from the usual couple of short-rows at the shoulders, so I’m not experienced on how to vary the neck amongst the short rows.
One other thing.
I must have decreased slightly incorrectly for the sleeves, because although I have 64 sts front and back, I have 32 sts for each sleeve, whereas the size 48 has 26 at this point. (I should have counted more carefully.) Would you recommend undoing back so I can get closer to 24/26 sts for each sleeve before doing whatever I need to for the neckline?
Many thanks in advance for any advice you might have.
Hi Janet,
Thanks for the question! Changing a neckline is a big undertaking as it might require you knitting and ripping a lot before you perfect it. That being said, it is difficult for me to give you a concrete answer over the comments section on how to execute this. However, I can guide you on how you might go about this. I’d start the neckline 10 rounds earlier and put 10 less stitches total on hold for the front neckline. You’ll wr-t on your first two short rows as in short row 1 and then for the subsequent 8 short rows you’ll wr-t the stitch before your previous wrap. Once you knit your 10 rows of wr-t you should start to follow the original neckline. This is just a suggestion and might not work out though! Necklines are very tricky to develop without knitting a sample first. Hope this helps!
-Adam
Can you please recommend a cast-on that helps reduce the rolling of the edge?
Thanks!
Hi Rochelle,
Thanks for writing us. We used the long tail cast on for this project and after blocking the edge flattened out. If you’re wary about this you can try blocking a small swatch using the same yarn and the cording stitch. Good luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
Hi Purl Team! I love this sweater and would love to finally make something for myself but I would need to size this up and need some advice.
I read through the pattern for the body and it looks like it’s pretty straightforward that I would simply repeat the pattern for a longer length, correct?
However, the size 48 I would need to size up to allow for more space in the chest area – my eternal struggle with sweater patterns and why I almost never pick up the needles for sweaters. Any advice on how to approach this? I can follow patterns but my skills are not sophisticated enough to figure this out on my own.
Many thanks!
Hi Susan,
Thanks for the question! As for adjusting the length of the body, you will just knit until you’re satisfied with the length. This is the easy adjustment! The adjustment for the chest is trickier. How many inches in circumference are you thinking of knitting? Let us know!
-Adam
Is there a .pdf of this I can download?
Thanks!
Hi Emily,
Thanks for writing in! You certainly can download our patterns as PDFs! If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I love this yarn and the look of this sweater and I want to make it. I’ve read through the pattern and, although it includes directions that are unfamiliar to me, I think I can figure them out. The big sticking point for me is the use of dpns: I just can’t manage them! So my question for you is, are there alternative methods I can use when dpns are called for? Thanks very much for any encouragement you can give me.
Hi Norma,
Thanks for writing in! Glad you’re thinking of attacking this pattern! I suggest using the magic loop method for parts of the pattern that require DPNs. You can look up a tutorial for this technique on YouTube. There are lots of helpful videos. Thanks!
-Adam
Love this pattern but wish there was an option to save digitally. I have been converting all the patterns I can to digital, especially individual patterns like this.
Hi Jill,
Thanks for writing us! You can save as a PDF if you click the print icon on the right-hand side of your screen. A popup window will appear and on the top bar you can click the PDF option.
All the best,
Adam
is this sweater unisex. I would like to knit this sweater for a man. Chest size 44-46? more towards a 46 chest
Chris
Hi Christopher,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, this sweater can be considered unisex because there is no bust shaping. As for the chest size, you can choose to knit the 44″ or 48″ size, as there is no option for a 46″ size. Best of luck and happy knitting!
-Adam