Optic Blanket
Knitting a large blanket can be like climbing a mountain: some preparation, a lot of hard work, and at the very end, a tremendous sense of pride, accomplishment, and beauty!
Our Optic Blanket makes the climb as rewarding as the summit. You cleverly work each square in the round from the periphery inward, decreasing with simple central double decreases. And to begin each square, you pick up stitches along adjacent squares, saving you from the dreaded task of sewing everything together at the end!
We used Purl Soho’s incredibly soft and weighty Flax Down to knit our blanket, especially excited that it’s now available in six new colors! For high contrast drama, we chose rich Kettle Black paired with classic Heirloom White, but the results are equally stunning in all of the colors. We’ve included swatches of each below to help you choose!
Our Optic Blanket may be more ambitious hike than quick jaunt, but it promises a truly fulfilling journey and a spectacular destination! -Kristy
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoOpticBlanket, and #PurlSohoFlaxDown. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- Yarn A: 9 skeins of Purl Soho’s Flax Down, 43% baby alpaca, 42% extra fine merino, 15% linen. Each skein is 219 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 1,971 yards required. We used Kettle Black. (NOTE: We no longer offer Flax Down, but choose from one of our other light worsted/dk weight yarns.)
- Yarn B: 7 skeins of Purl Soho’s Flax Down; approximately 1,533 yards required. We used Heirloom White.
- US 7 (4.5 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 7 double pointed needles
- 4 removable stitch markers, including one unique
Kettle Black
Kiln Red
Lavender Opal
Stonewall Gray
Rose Granite
Stillwater Blue
Gauge
20 stitches = 4 inches in garter stitch
Size
Finished dimensions: Approximately 48 inches wide x 56 inches long
Notes
For this blanket you work each square in the round, decreasing from the perimeter to the center. To attach the squares, you pick up stitches from an adjacent square (or two!) and work from there. Don’t worry, it’s easy and we explain everything!
S2kp (slip 2, knit 1, psso): Slip 2 stitches together knit wise wyib, knit 1, pass slipped stitches over knit stitch and off right needle. [2 stitches decreased]
To learn how to change colors for this blanket, check out our Stripes in the Round Tutorial.
Pattern
Square 1
With Yarn A, cast 164 stitches onto the circular needles. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches. Note: Do not place a marker when you join.
Round 1: With Yarn A, [k40, slip 1 purlwise, place removable stitch marker on slipped stitch (not on needle)] four times. Use the different color marker for the last marker you place. It indicates the end of the round.
Round 2: With Yarn B, [knit to next marked stitch, slip marked stitch purlwise wyib] four times.
Round 3: With Yarn B, [purl to next marked stitch, slip marked stitch purlwise wyib] four times.
Round 4: With Yarn A, [knit to one stitch before next marked stitch, remove stitch marker, s2kp (see Notes, above), place stitch marker on s2kp stitch] four times. [8 stitches decreased]
Round 5: With Yarn A, [purl to one stitch before next marked stitch, remove stitch marker, s2kp, place stitch marker on s2kp stitch] four times. [8 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rounds 2 – 5 eight more times, changing to double pointed needles when necessary. [20 stitches]
Work Rounds 2 – 4 one time. [12 stitches]
Final Round: With Yarn A, s2kp four times, removing stitch markers as you work. [4 stitches]
Cut yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail, and with a tapestry needle, thread the yarn through the remaining 4 stitches. Weave in the tail on the wrong side.
Square 1 is done!
Square 2
With Yarn A, cast 123 stitches onto the circular needles. Then with the right side of both the cast on and Square 1 facing you, use the left end of the needle to pick up 41 stitches purlwise along an edge of Square 1. [164 stitches] Note: For some tips on picking up, please visit our Picking Up Stitches Tutorial.
Join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Starting with Round 1, repeat Square 1 instructions to complete Square 2.
Squares 3-7
BLANKET DIAGRAM
Working to create a line of seven squares, continue by casting on 123 stitches and picking up 41 stitches along the top edge of each previous square (always use Yarn A for this). Make each square as instructed for Square 1. Work until you have completed all 7 squares.
Squares 8-14
For Square 8, continue as above, but pick up the 41 stitches along the left edge of Square 7, instead of at its top.
Orient the completed squares so that they are face up and Squares 1-7 are on the left.
For Square 9, cast 82 stitches onto the circular needles. Then, keeping the right side of the cast on facing you and using the left end of the needles, pick up 41 stitches purlwise along the top of Square 8, and then 41 stitches purlwise along the right side of Square 6. [164 stitches]
Join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Starting with Round 1, repeat Square 1 instructions to complete Square 9.
Work Squares 10-14 as you did Square 9, casting on 82 stitches and then picking up 41 stitches from the top and right sides of each previous square.
Squares 15 and 16
Now orient the completed squares so that they face up and Squares 1-7 are again on the right. Cast on 123 stitches, pick up 41 stitches from the left side of Square 14, and make Square 15, as described above.
To attach Square 16, cast on 82 stitches, pick up 41 stitches purlwise from the left side of Square 13 and 41 stitches purlwise from the top of Square 15. Make the square as previously described.
Continue
Using this same logic and referring to the Blanket Diagram, continue to attach and work the remaining squares.
Finish
With a tapestry needle and Color A, sew closed any gaps that may remain at the squares’ intersections.
Weave in ends and block as desired.
Hi, I’m having the same issue with this blanket as others have posted but I’m still without a solution. As I decrease rows, I’m ending up with an uneven number of stitches between my markers because at the end of the round, to decrease, you have to take a stitch from what is basically the beginning of the next round. I’ve knit the square up three times, have been particularly careful about not dropping/missing any decreases, and keep having the same problem. Is there a way to fix this? A way to cast on more stitches at the beginning?
Hello M,
Thank you for reaching out! While you do remove your marker at each decrease, your rows will continue to be an even number
and your marker stays on the same stitch. This is because each decrease you are decreasing by two stitches, one on either side of the stitch that has a marker on it. After repeating rounds 2-5 8 more times for a total of 9 times, you will be down to 20 stitches. Rounds 4 and 5 decrease 8 stitches a piece. So 8 (stitches) x 2 (rounds) x 9 (times) = 144 stitches decreased. So from the original 164 stitches, you will be down to 20 stitches.
I hope this makes sense and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi The best inspiration team!
I have been dreaming of the Optical Blanket and wanted to run by you an idea to make it in PurlSoho Good Wool… Thoughts?
I also wanted to make it larger (or much larger, maybe 90” X 90”), so would very much appreciate it if you could provide your used more or less exact per-square Flax Down yardage, for both yarn A & B, if possible, so I could re-calculate for my needed number of squares / Good Wool skeins… My assumption is that Good Wool & Flax Down weight is somewhat similar, but Good Wool is, probably, lighter and, therefore, longer, correct?…
Finally, I was thinking of using a two-step provisional cast on method starting each square with four 41-stitch waste yarn chains, which I’d be able to remove, when needed, connecting the open stitches invisibly… Maybe, it would make sense to remove one of the four chains from each square right after it is done, making the panels, and then remove the others to connect the complete panels and finish the entire perimeter edge… Anyway, this , I hope, would provide me with more (or much more :)) mobility for this promise-to-be-quite-long project… What do you think?
Any info, comment, suggestion, or correction would be highly appreciated!
Thank you!
Yuliya
Hello Yuliya,
Thank you for reaching out! Good Wool and Flax Down are very compatible in their gauge so Good Wool is a great alternative for this blanket. The difference in weight has to do with the fiber content and not the thickness of the yarn.
We used approximately 3460 yards total. For color A we used 1919 yards and for color B, 1541 yards.
You can certainly use a provisional cast on. This will just add a big step at the end, but, you are correct, also create a much more portable project. 🙂
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello! This is my first time knitting a blanket like this, and knitting with circular needles, so I’m having some difficulty with making the first square. Instead of the triangles, the slipped stitches have formed a spiral. I’m not quite sure what went wrong… the square is a little warped as well, but this might be due to the slipped stitches spiralling. Any advice as to what I did wrong and how to fix it?
Thank you for your time!
Hi Evelyn,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like your markers might have traveled while you were knitting the square or you worked the decreases in the wrong spot. You will need to use removable stitch markers and place them in the stitch itself, not on the needle, and when working the s2kp stitch, the two slipped stitches will be the marked stitch and the stitch to the right of the marked stitch. This should result in nice straight diagonal lines on the square!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Could a 47″ circular and using the magic loop technique work while making each square to negate the need to switch needles constantly?
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, if you are familiar with the Magic Loop technique, it would be a fantastic way to knit each square on a single needle! I think you could even use a 40″ needle comfortably, which would be much easier to navigate than a 47″ needle in the first few rounds of the square. Please do let us know how it goes!
Best,
Julianna
Well Im confused. I read & reread the instructions multiple times & still do not understand why the squares are numbered. They are all knit using the same pattern so what am I misding? I have used circular needles alot. Also, I dont see how the 2 different colors are carried over to the next rows and still appear to be knit together? Guessl need to actually do it to find out.
The size appears to be more like a throw than a blanket, unless its a baby blanket, love the pattern though.
Hi Jeanne,
Thanks for reaching out! Although the squares are all the same after the first row, there is some variation in how you get all the stitches on the needle. For instance, for Square 1, you will cast on all the stitches, but for Square 2, you will cast on most of the stitches and pick up the rest of the stitches from the previous square. As you follow along through the diagram, the rhythm of which stitches to pick up and which to cast on will start making sense! When knitting each square, you will alternate two rows of each color, but the special decreases will create the diagonal lines of just one color. It really is much easier to knit than it looks! Our throw came out to 48 inches wide by 56 inches long, which is pretty standard for a throw, but you could certainly make it larger if you would like by adding more squares!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Thinking about making a smaller version (fewer squares) as a baby blanket — do you recommend flax down for easy washing (by hand is ok)?
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, Flax Down can be gently hand washed and laid flat to dry!
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
When casting on 123 stitches to add square 2 to square 1, what type of cast on are you using ,having a hard time wrapping my brain around casting on and then picking up., and having the working yarn in the correct place .A senior moment maybe lol .
Hello Ann,
Thank you for reaching out- this is a great question! With Yarn A, cast 123 stitches onto the circular needles. Then with the right side of both the cast on and Square 1 facing you, use the left end of the needle to pick up 41 stitches purlwise along an edge of Square 1. [164 stitches] The important thing here is that you know which side is the right side on your square 1, and that you are only picking up 41 stitches. For some more tips on how to pick up stitches, check out our Picking Up Stitches Tutorial!
Happy knitting and let us know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
I am also confused maybe because I am new to longtail caston. I thought the RS was the side facing me as I cast on the sts, so that when finished the working yarn is on the end of the needle I’m holding in my R hand. I also thought that the caston sts were the equivalent of a caston + a knit row.
That would mean that I am next to pick up purl sts from the right corner of the square, leaving me with a row that is 123 knit-st-equivalent followed by 41 purl sts. Or to get the sts to be all purls, should turn the needle around and use the tail end of the yarn to pick up the 41 purl sts from the square?
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for reaching out! When using long-tail cast on, if you are using the basic method (Basic Long Tail Cast On) when you join for working in the round the stitches should be ready to knit on the right side. The cast on for this pattern does not count as the first row, so once you cast on the 123 stitches onto the circular needles you will then use the working yarn (not the tail of the cast on) to pick up 41 stitches with the right needle purlwise (purlwise just means the orientation of how to pick up the stitches, but you are not purling the stitches, they should be knit) along an edge of Square 1. (for more info on picking up stitches please check out our Picking Up Stitches tutorial!)
once you have picked up the stitches, you will join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches, and from there you will go directly onto Round 1:
With Yarn A, [k40, slip 1 purlwise, place removable stitch marker on slipped stitch (not on needle)] four times. Use the different color marker for the last marker you place. It indicates the end of the round.
Keep in mind you will knit 40 as stated, not purl.
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
I would love do download your free pattern but every time I try to print everything disappears. Can I only get the pattern if I purchase the yarn??? Thanks for your help
Hello Brenda,
Thank you for reaching out! This is very distressing, I’m sorry to hear that you are having this issue. None of our free patterns require any purchases. Is is possible that you have some sort of pop up blocker that could be interfering? Have you tried exiting out of your browser or restarting your computer?
I hope this is helpful and that you can get this issue cleared soon!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thanks Marilla, after changing my browser can now print. I’m looking forward to doing this blanket. Cheers Brenda
How do you think this would work as a throw pillow cover? I’m thinking around 16″ x 16″. Can you help me figure out how much yarn I’ll need? Thanks so much!
Hello Judith,
Thank you for reaching out! This is a fantastic Idea. Each square is 8″x8″ so you will need 4 square for one side of a 16″x16″ throw pillow. To make one side you will need one skein of each color in Flax Down, or Two of each for both sides of your pillow.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I would like to make this as an Afghan or throw instead of a full size blanket. Could I just stop at row 5 or 6 on the vertical and row 33 or 34 on the horizontal?
Hi Patti,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, absolutely! You can easily customize the size of the blanket by knitting more or fewer squares, attaching them as you go in the same manner.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
can you please tell me how much yarn of each color you ended up buying to make afghan instead of blanket and what was ultimate size??
I am having the same problem as Brenda & also encountered it about a month ago as well. Thank you for your suggestions. But, any idea why this keeps happening?
Thanks,
Cynthia
Hi Cynthia,
Thanks for reaching out! We haven’t experienced any problems on our end so it’s hard to say why you might be having trouble with the print function. Usually the culprit is a pop-up or ad blocker, and either disabling your ad blocker or using a different browser will solve the problem. If you are still unable to print the pattern, please reach out to us at customerservice@purlsoho.com!
Best,
Julianna
Hi. Thanks for the beautiful pattern. Do you suggest a specific cast on for easily picking up the stitches?
Hi Irene,
Thanks for writing in! We used a Long Tail Cast On for this blanket and found that it worked out quite well!
Best,
Julianna
Working on this blanket now with no issues as the pattern is well written! I have been perusing the comments section and want to note that the Purl Bee staff have the patience of Saints!
Hi Janel,
You are too kind!! I’m so glad you are enjoying knitting the blanket, and thank you for sharing – I’ll be sure to pass your compliments along to the rest of the comments team!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi
Are the diagonal lines hand sewn on?
Hi Tina,
Great question! These lines are formed by the decreases that shape each square.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I have a question regarding Square 1 round 1 and round 2. In round 1 it states slip 1 purlwise (is that with the yarn in the front ?) I’m assuming it is because in round 2 it states specifically slip 1 purlwise with yarn in the back. Can you please confirm that for me.
Thank you
Melinda
Hi Melinda,
Thanks for reaching out! In this blanket, all slipped stitches should be slipped purlwise with the yarn in back, including on the first row. I apologize that it isn’t specified in the first row, but you will be working the slipped stitches the same way throughout the square.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
This is a super easy pattern to follow. Thank you for writing it so anyone could follow. I’m only on my third square and had no issues. If you know the techniques it’s a piece of cake.
Hi Ange,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! I am so glad to hear that you are enjoying this pattern!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi! I’ve been eyeing this pattern for so long and I finally cast on last weekend! I’ve completed the first two squares no problem following the pattern and they look right, but instead of lying flat the squares keep ending up in a pyramid shape… Any suggestions on how to keep everything from going into a peak towards the center of each square? Do you think this is a tension issue? Thanks for the gorgeous pattern!
Hello Madeleine,
Thank you for reaching out! It does sound like a tension issue. Are you knitting at gauge? It sounds like your gauge might be to tight. Depending on how extreme the shape is, you could try steam blocking the square you have already knit up, just to see if you can eliminate this issue that way.
I hope this is helpful, but let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi! I came across this pattern today and thought it looked like a good summer project to keep me busy.
If I finish the pattern as written and decide later I wanted to make it larger could I just add additional squares around the outside edge by picking up the stitches per square as needed to adjust the length and/or width?
Very neat pattern and very excited to give it a try.
Thanks!
Hi Rob,
Thanks so much for the kind words and for writing in! Yes, you could certainly add another row or column of squares to make the blanket larger after the fact! It might take a bit of planning to figure out which stitches to pick up and which to cast on depending on where each square is added, but by the time you have knit the rest of the blanket, I’m sure the modular knitting method will be so familiar to you that it won’t be any trouble at all!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Question–I’m on square 15 and I’m picking up the 41 sts from previous square. I really need to pick up more like 43 sts to get all the sts without any pulling. What should I do?
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for reaching out! Since the first row of the square doesn’t include any increases, you can decrease any extra stitches in this row by working a few k2togs – just make sure that your slipped stitches align with each corner of the picked up stitches!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I just finished the first square and the black lines leading to the center don’t look like the photos. They’re very loose. One corner (at the beginning) looks tight and nice, but the other three have been loops where the black overlaps the white. Any tips for tightening it up?
Hi Rose,
Thanks for reaching out! If you look at our pictures showing different color combinations, you can see in the close-up pictures of the Kettle Black and Stillwater Blue squares that it is normal for a little bit of the white to peek through the diagonal lines, especially when you are using a high contrast color combination. If your lines are much looser, it’s possible that it is a gauge issue, since an overall looser gauge would lead to even looser slip stitches. I would suggest checking your gauge, and if you have substituted a different yarn, possibly going down a needle size even if that leads to a tighter gauge than ours, to see if it solves the problem.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Good evening! I am on square 29 and so I am treating it like square 15. When I follow the directions, keeping squares 1-7 on the right, this means I am starting at the bottom left of square 28, and cast up the blanket purlwise. When I continue with Round 1 (Yarn A K40, etc.) and continue with the pattern, it seems I’ve fastened the square backside up. I’ve paid close attention to ensuring I am not twisting the yarn/cast on, so I do not believe that to be my issue.
I’ve tried it twice now with the same result and so I wanted to write you for help so that I can do it correctly next time.
Any advice is appreciated! Thank you,
Maggie
Hi Maggie,
Thanks for reaching out! It’s hard to say what exactly is going wrong without seeing your work, but you should be casting on 123 stitches first, and then, using the yarn attached to the casted on stitches, begin at the top left corner of Square 28, right where it meets Square 27, to pick up the 41 stitches, ending at the bottom left corner of the square. You should keep the right side of the blanket facing when you join your work into the round so that your square stays facing up.
I hope that clears things up, but if not, please send us an image of your work at customerservice@purlsoho.com so we can troubleshoot this for you!
Best,
Julianna
Hi there. Thank you for sharing this pattern. I just added square 2 onto square 1, the squares themselves look great, but there’s a large ridge in the center seam between the two squares, I’m guessing from the way I picked up the stitches for square 2 (purlwise, per the instructions). I’m wondering is this the way it’s supposed to look, or did I do something wrong? In your pics, the seam between the squares looks flat and nice, but it’s kind of hard to see with the black yarn. Should I not have used the original cast on edge on square 1 to pick up the stitches for square 2 (should I have picked up from the first knit row instead of the cast on edge?)?
I’m also wondering, if I did all the squares separately and then joined them together later, what joining method would you recommend that would look nicest? 3 needle bind off?
Thanks!
Hi Kahreen,
Thanks for reaching out! It is indeed hard to see in black yarn, but there should be a ridge and a wider stripe of black between the two squares, so I think what you are describing sounds correct. If you look at the picture for Square 2, you can see that there is an extra purl ridge along the top of Square 1 after picking up the stitches, and Round 1 of Square 2 will also be knit in black, making the join area between the two squares even wider. It sounds like you are picking up the stitches in the right place!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi Kahreen,
Sorry I missed your second question! If you were to knit them separately, I would recommend using our Seaming Stockinette Stitch Horizontally tutorial to join them, as it would be quite a lot of extra work to pick up stitches and then work a three needle bind off.
Best,
Julianna
Hi Kahreen – Did you try knitting the squares separately and sewing them together? I am thinking about this too and wondering how it worked and how it looked? Thanks for letting me know.
Pam R
Hiya,
Should I get the 6 inch or 8 inch double pointed needles for this pattern?
Thanks!
Hope everyone is doing well.
Hi Sasha,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! The 6 inch double pointed needles should be fine for this pattern. We hope you’ll enjoy working on this blanket and watching it come together before your eyes- please let us know how it goes!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
I seem to be having a trouble with gauge as diagonals are really long stitches so you can see the white underneath. I have a picture to share, any suggestions to tighten the V of the diagonals
Hi Veronica,
Thank you for reaching out! If you look at our pictures above showing different color options, you’ll see in the close-up pictures of the darker Kettle Black and Stillwater Blue squares that it is normal for a bit of the white to peek through the diagonals, especially when using high contrast color combinations. If your slipped stitches are significantly looser then it may be a gauge issue after all. I recommend double checking your gauge, and possibly switching to a smaller needle size to see if it helps. Don’t worry if your gauge ends up smaller than ours if it takes care of your loose stitches!
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
Gaby
Hi there!
I am wondering why the first row is knitted rather than purled (which seems like it would follow the repeat pattern). Is it because of the CO you used, or does it help to pick up stitches later?
With a long tail CO, knitting the first two rows makes the whole edge in stockinette instead of garter stitch – is that how it’s meant to be?
Thank you!
Hi Skye,
Thanks for reaching out! This extra row of knitting gives you a nice flat area of stockinette stitch to pick up stitches for the next square. It sounds like you understand the pattern correctly!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Thank you for this glorious pattern!
I want to add an i-cord border to the finished blanket. Should I be picking up every stitch along the side edges as well as the cast on edges, or should the ratio be different for the sides?
Also, approximately how many skeins would I need to perform a 3 stitch (plus the pick up stitch) i-cord?
Your advice would be greatly appreciated!
Hi Cindy,
Thank you so much for the kind words! Because these squares are knit in the round, you will always be picking up from a cast on edge when working your attached i-cord, so you can always pick up one stitch per stitch on all sides of the blanket. Unfortunately, it’s really hard to say how much yarn you will need for this edging because we haven’t tried it, but I would plan on having at least one extra skein of Flax Down. If it turns out you don’t need it, any un-wound yarn can be returned for store credit!
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Hi, I feel really dumb, 7 squares in and i just realized that I’ve been picking up stitches knitwise rather than purlwise! is there a way to fix it (even cosmetically?) or should i just continue knitwise as an artistic choice (lol)?
Hi Tatyana,
Oh no! Fortunately, as long as you pick up all the squares in the same manner, the blanket should look cohesive and I don’t think anyone will know it was supposed to be done differently except for you. If you would like to try adding some texture to the join between the squares, you could look up a technique called Surface Crochet. It won’t look like a garter or purl ridge, but it will match the diagonal lines on the squares and might give a nice effect.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello, I have just started and am on Square 1. I’m confused about the directions. I’m through “repeat rounds 2-5 eight more times” and had 20 stitches. But the following direction is “Work Rounds 2-4 one time [12 stitches] but that only brings me to 16 stitches because without Round 5 I’ve only decreased 4 stitches. Then the Final round is with Yarn A, which will give me two rows of Yarn A in a row. So what am I doing wrong??
Thank you!
Hi Meg,
Thanks for reaching out! Row 4 should decrease 8 total stitches since you will be working 4 double decreases, one at each marker, taking you from 20 stitches to 12 stitches. If you only ended up with 16 stitches, I would double check that you are working the s2kp correctly! After that, it is correct to work two rows of Yarn A so the center of the square is black.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi, I just got onto square 2 and I think i picked up the stitches form square one correctly but it seems like one of the two diagonals of square 2 isn’t lining up with the one from square one.
I picked up between the first spot after and before the diagonal ends of square one(not picking up the corner stitches themselves). But with those being 41, aren’t the double decrease offset by one then, since the decrease would happen on the last stitch of these 41 and on one before the first? Do I need to pick up the stitches non symmetrical? I could still unravel this square but might just keep it and do the others correct then.
Thank you!
Hi Ilias,
Thanks for writing in! The 41 stitches should be picked up symmetrically across the edge of square one. If the diagonal lines aren’t matching up it is possible that the stitches were not symmetrical leading the lines to be off kilter. For the best result you may want to rip out that square and start by picking up the stitches again. The Picking Up Stitches Tutorial is a great resource to check out!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi Gianna, thank you for your response! I kept going with this as it is kind of my first knitting project and it looks almost perfect and if its one of 36 squares I honestly don’t think anyone would notice haha. I will see how it goes with the next square and If I am getting the same issue I will certainly take it out and keep trying until I found out why.
I could swear though that I picked up the stitches symmetrically, I ended up having exactly 41 stitches to pick up by being exactly one after the corner and one before the next corner and I did pick up these kind of braided double loops from the cast on (and the connection does look great with there being a slim ridge between and the backside being perfectly flat). Does that sound right or should I actually be picking up the actual corner stitches on both side? Its brutal to explain haha but I hope that makes sense.
And thanks for the amazing pattern, speaks for itself that someone like me who never knitted before can do this 95% by just reading your pattern and using your helpful links and tutorials!
Hi Ilias,
Thank you for your kind words! We are always so glad to hear when people are happy with our patterns! I am also so glad things are looking good!
You should start picking up at the first stitch along the edge. In the Picking Up Stitches tutorial (1st video on the page) you can see the exact location of which stitch to start with!
I hope this helps and best of luck!!
Gianna
This is an ingenious design! Thank you. I am making it for my granddaughter for college next fall. I hope she picks a cold climate! She asked for pink and black. Very dramatic!
Please explain how, when working all squares after 1, a knitter will long tail cast on x# of stitches and then pick up 41 sts with the LEFT needle? The working yarn is attached to the last cast on stitch on the right needle.
If I turn, so the cast on stitches are at the top left corner of the last block and making the right needle the left needle, are we picking up from left to right?
How does one pick up with the left needle with the right side facing? Or honestly, how do you ever pick up with the left needle?
Hi Amy,
Thanks for reaching out! Picking up stitches with the left needle is not much different than picking up stitches with the right needle! This way it sets you up to join the work in the round! Our Picking Up Stitches tutorial is an excellent resource to use and will show you exactly how to pick up stitches purlwise like we do in this pattern!
I hope this clarifies things, happy knitting!
Gianna
I commented before but am on the last square (one column less than the pattern since it’s for the college bound kid). I am left-handed and picking up stitches is a bear for me but I compensate, so my blankets may not look exactly like the pattern but it’s amazing. The one thing that I did not do well is inconsistently aligning the lines of the pattern when I picked up stitches. Thank you for this. I am moving onto another Purl Soho pattern that will make me crazy!
Please review your tutorials. That link is showing to pick up stitches with the right needle. Not a left needle like stated in the pattern. As a matter of fact none of those tutorials show how to pick up with the left needle.
Hi Amy,
Thanks for writing in! When picking up stitches, either with the left or right needle you pick them up the exact same way as we show in the tutorial! This pattern has you pick them up with the left needle in order for this stitch pattern to work correctly, but there is not a special technique to do that. It would be the same as if you were picking them up with the right needle. Thank you for expressing your interest in a left needle pick up stitches tutorial though, I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
For some reason I am confused about the first few rows of the squares. In the picture it looks like the very first, outermost stripe with the black has purl bumps somehow, and I’m confused how to get that with only a row of knit stitches! I used the long tail cast on, did you perhaps use a different cast on, or is it supposed to be a purl row first? Using the long tail cast on and doing all knit stitches on the first row makes it look like essentially two rows of stockinette. I don’t like the look of my squares because the outside edge doesn’t match with the rest of the garter square. I just cannot figure out where I’m going wrong! Please help!!
Hi Maggie,
Thanks for reaching out! This blanket is knit with a Garter Stitch (knit on both sides) and the nature of that stitch, when knit correctly on both sides, the pattern should have rows of bumps! We used a long tail cast on for this pattern, so you should be fine with that, but you could also use Cable Cast On if you aren’t liking how it looks!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I was wondering does this optic blanket can be crocheted and if so where might I find the pattern ? Thanking you.
Hi Marion,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, at this time we do not have a crochet pattern available for this blanket. Thank you for expressing your interest and I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
All the best,
Gianna
My slip stitches are looking super loose, except for the ones at the end of the round. How can I fix this?
Hi Shirley,
Thanks for reaching out! My best suggestion is to try not to overstretch the slip stitches as best you can, you can also adjust this when you block the finished piece!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi
I live in San Diego and would love this in cotton. Can you help me with a conversion and is it even possible!
Hi Anne,
Thanks for reaching out! I would suggest using our yarn Cotton Pure, it is a sport weight compared to Flax Down which is a light worsted/dk weight. So it is a bit more fine than what the pattern is written for but could be very close! I would recommend working a gauge swatch with the US 7 needle that we used in the pattern and see how it compares, if it is a little too open for you liking you can then adjust the needle size and cast on from there!
All the best,
Gianna
Se puede hacer con agujas rectas?
Hi Margarita,
Thanks for reaching out! Due to the construction of this blanket, you will need circular needles in order to complete it! Unfortunately, straight needles would not work.
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Are the pick up stitches always purlwise all of the way through the pattern?
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, that is correct you will pick up the stitches purlwise though out the blanket unless other wise noted!
Warmly,
Gianna
I just LoVE this design, thank you for the pattern. The flax down is shedding quite a bit on my lap as I work. Can you advise on care and washing once the project is complete? I’d love to use it as a lap blanket but fear it’s too linty/fuzzy for that use. Ideas welcomed!
Hi Jens,
Thank you for reaching out! It’s true, the Flax Down can shed quite a bit because of the linen fibers and the loose ply of the yarn. For washing, you’ll want to hand wash it and avoid agitating the piece too much while it’s wet. Because of how the yarn is plied, it will felt if it is too roughly handled. We have a helpful tutorial on handwashing knits right here.
I’d also strongly recommend using a sweater shaver to maintain it regualarly. That will help with the shedding and keep your finished blanket looking fresh and new! Our Sweater Rake is a good option; I also highly recommend the Gleener Ultimate Fuzz Remover.
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any other questions!
Warmly,
Kelsey
My name is Angel and I am very allergic to Wool is there a different kind of yarn that I can use? I have very sensitive skin, Psoriasis since I was 4 years old, and they found out that I am allergic to a lot of stuff and Wool is one of the biggest.
Hi Angel,
I’d be happy to suggest some alternative yarns for you to use that don’t contain wool! First, I’d recommend you take a look at our Understory, which is made of a blend of alpaca, yak, and silk fibers. Both alpaca and yak are hypoallergenic and are generally fine to use for people with wool allergies. Another good option would be our Morning, which is a blend of cotton and yak (and is also machine washable!) and works wonderfully for blankets!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Twisting the yarns together at the joins is a neat trick, except that I end up with a tangle and every row have to spend time undoing it. Is there a trick to avoid this issue at the moment of the twist?
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for writing in. I’d recommend moving the entire ball of yarn when twisting the yarns around each other. I know this is a little extra work, but it will definitely save you the time and stress of untangling the strands. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi – I saw one comment in which someone asked about possibly knitting the squares separately and then sewing them together at the end which is what I would like to do to keep this project more portable. Do you know if anyone has actually tried or done this? And did the seaming stockinette horizontally method work? This will be my daughter’s college graduation blanket. Thank you so much!
Hi Pam,
That’s a great question! I hope someone who has done just that sees your comment and is able to let you know how it worked out. But in the meantime, I think that’s a great idea! I can’t see why seaming stockinette horizontally wouldn’t work, and I also want to suggest the whipstitch, which is my personal favorite seaming method. We demonstrate that technique in our Sewing Crocheted Squares Together tutorial, but it will absolutely work for the cast-on edge of knit squares.
All the best,
Lili
My diagonal lines are not all one color. What am I missing?
Hi Glenna,
Thanks for writing in. It sounds like you might not be slipping the marked stitches on Rounds 4 and/or 5! These stitches are important to slip, and not knit or purl, since that ensures that they remain in Yarn A, to be worked into the s2kp’s on the following rounds.
I hope that clears things up, but if not, please send us an image of your work at customerservice@purlsoho.com so we can troubleshoot this for you!
All the best,
Lili
I would like to knit this beautiful blanket with a cotton yarn. Possibly a thicker cotton. Anything that you can recommend that would work with this pattern.
Thank you,
Hi Blimie!
Thank you for your question. Morning is a great cotton option for this blanket, and is used in many of our baby blanket patterns too, since it is so soft and cuddly! Morning is the same weight as Flax Down, but if you wanted something thicker, we have Tulip Cotton and Campo, which are both worsted weight yarns, and would be great alternatives for a thicker blanket!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi I purchased the morning yarn and tried making one square. Looks beautiful! Would you be able to tell me how many skeins I would need of each color?
Thanks for your help
Hello,
Thanks for reaching out! For an Optic Blanket knit in Morning, you will need 11 skeins (2,101 yds) for color A and 9 skeins (1,719 yds) for color B.
Happy knitting!
All the best,
Carly
Hello, I am referring to this message below tha was sent 3/20/22, I am having the same issue and can’t seem to figure out why this happens, in your picture of the blanket it looks like the stitches are not loose. Any suggenstions what I might be doing wrong?
“Rose says:I just finished the first square and the black lines leading to the center don’t look like the photos. They’re very loose. One corner (at the beginning) looks tight and nice, but the other three have been loops where the black overlaps the white. Any tips for tightening it up?”
Hi Chanie,
Thanks for writing in! If I remember correctly from our email correspondence a few months ago, you’re knitting this blanket in Morning? Because Morning is very different in terms of fiber content from the original yarn, you may be running into a gauge issue, like Julianna suggested in her reply to the other comment. While it’s definitely possible to achieve the same gauge as the pattern with Morning, it’s very common to need to go down a needle size when working with yarn with cotton in it. I’d suggest measuring your gauge to make sure that it’s correct, and if it’s not, swatching with different needles!
If you’re still finding that the stitches are too loose, I’d recommend sending a photo of your work to customerservice@purlsoho.com so we can take a closer look!
All the best,
Lili