Classic Hemmed Crewneck
This Classic Hemmed Crewneck is the sweater that never makes it back into my drawer. It lives either on my body or draped over the back of a chair, ready for next time. It’s the kind of perfectly simple, perfectly useful sweater that, when you’re not wearing it, you throw it in your bag “just in case.”
Pared down and flattering but roomy enough for layering, the Classic Hemmed Crewneck’s achieves subtle shaping with the use of only a few easy knitting techniques. One of them is the no-fuss hems that help give this sweater its name and which we carefully explain in our new Knit Hem video tutorial!
But this sweater wouldn’t be what it is without Purl Soho’s magical Flax Down. A single-ply blend of alpaca, wool, and linen, this yarn has a beautiful bloom that seems to make the fabric glow. Flax Down folds gracefully at the hemmed edges, submits happily to the raglan shaping, and feels soft and cozy against the skin.
My Classic Hemmed Crewneck goes everywhere with me these days and I’m confident, for many days to come as well. Make it your new just-in-case sweater, too! –Laura
UPDATE: NEW YARN
October 27, 2021
A sweater so nice, we made it twice: one in our original Flax Down, alpaca, extra fine merino, and linen, and one in our supremely soft extra fine merino and cashmere blend Cashmere Merino Bloom. See the new versions here!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoClassicHemmedCrewneck, and #PurlSohoFlaxDown. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
In addition to a Purl Soho Classic Hemmed Crewneck pattern, you’ll need…
- 5 (6, 6, 7) (7, 8, 8, 9) skeins of Purl Soho’s Flax Down, 43% baby alpaca, 42% extra fine merino, 15% linen. Each skein is 219 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 1015 (1125, 1250, 1395)(1525, 1635, 1735, 1835) yards required. We used Heirloom White and Toasted Charcoal. (NOTE: We no longer offer Flax Down, but choose from one of our other light worsted/dk weight yarns.)
- US 7 (4.5mm), 32 or 40-inch circular needles, depending on sweater size
- US 7, 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 7 double pointed needles
- US 6 (4mm), 16-inch circular needles (for Neckband)
- 4 stitch markers, including 1 of a unique color or shape for end-of-round
- 4 stitch holders or scrap yarn
NOTE: Looking to knit your sleeves in double-time? Swap the double pointed needles for 32-inch or longer circular needles, and check out our Magic Loop: Two At A Time Tutorial!
Gauge
21 stitches and 28 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on larger needles
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
37¾ (42, 46, 50¼) (54½, 59, 63¼, 67½)
- To fit actual chest circumference 32–34 (35–39, 40–43, 44–47) (48–51, 52–56, 57–60, 61–64) inches, with approximately 3–7 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 37¾ (42, 46, 50¼) (54½, 59, 63¼, 67½) inches
- Finished Length From Shoulder To Bottom Edge: 22¼ (23, 23¾, 24¾) (25¼, 25½, 26, 26½) inches
- Finished Length From Underarm To Bottom Edge: 13 (13½, 13¾, 14½) (14¾, 14¾, 15, 15) inches
SAMPLES: The Heirloom White sweater pictured here is Size 37¾ with 5 inches of ease. The Toasted Charcoal sweater pictured here is size 42.
Pattern
The Classic Hemmed Crewneck pattern is available exclusively as a PDF download.
I love your patterns but only knit with double pointed needles. Do you have any patterns that are not knitted in the round? Advanced thanks for your reply on this.
Hello, Gillian!
Thank you for writing in! I am more than happy to direct you to some patterns not knit in the round. What do you typically knit and what are you interested in making?
You’re also welcome to check out our knitting gallery here.
Best,
Kumeko
I am also despairing at all these lovely patterns done on circular
needles. I much prefer knitting on straight needles and would buy so many of your patterns if they were so designed. Please design some simple roll neck and crew neck sweaters for straight needles !
Hello Tamar,
Thanks for writing in! We will keep your request in mind for future projects!
-Adam
You can’t do this with intarsia but lace, fair isle, cables etc will work. You would have to read the stitch chart on the even rows as if they were odd rows.
Is this a top down pattern? Thanks
Hi Sandy-
No, it’s a bottom up pattern.
Thanks for your question!
Molly
This sweater looks wonderful! Can you tell me how much ease this is designed for?
Thanks
Hi, Sarah!
Thank you for writing in! This sweater is designed with a 4- to 6-inch ease around the chest. Please let us know if you have further questions!
Best,
Kumeko
Is this sweater knit for the top down or done in pieces and put together ?
Hello, MJ!
This sweater is knit from the bottom-up! Please let us know if you have further questions! As always, thank you for writing in!
Best,
Kumeko
What is the construction technique? Top-down, bottom-up? I assume seamless in-the-round due to the needles required, but it would be helpful to have this specified in your description of the pattern.
Hi, Leticia!
Thanks for writing in! This sweater is knit bottom-up and there is no shaping from the bottom to the armholes. Then there is raglan shaping at the yoke and some short rows at the back shoulders. Please let us know if you have further questions!
Best,
Kumeko
Does this use the full 5 skeins of yarn for the smallest size?
Hi, Alexis!
Thank you for your question! Each skein of the Alpaca Pure is 219 yards. The smallest size uses approximately 1015 yards so you’ll most likely be using at least 3/4 of the 5th skein.
If you have further questions please let us know!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Alexis,
Hey! I meant to write that each skein of the Flax Down is 219 yards, not Alpaca Pure! Sorry for the mix up!
Best,
Kumeko
Love this, but can you r commend a less fuzzy yarn?
Hello, Debbi!
Thank you for writing in! For less fuzz, I recommend:
Tosh Merino DK
Blue Sky Alpacas Skinny Cotton
Manos Silk Blend
Kersti Merino
As always, I highly recommend making a gauge swatch with any yarn that you plan on using for this (or any) project. Please let us know if you have further questions!
Best,
Kumeko
Can you explain the gauge swatch I should be knitting? What does 28 rounds mean? Do I CO 21 sts and knit in the round, or is it 28 rows in stockinette?
Hello, Alexis!
Thank you for your questions! Most patterns will you the gauge over 4-inches, so to make sure you get the most accurate measurements I recommend making all gauge swatches at least 6-inches square. Also, because this pattern is knit in the round you’ll want to knit your swatch in the round (and by knitting in the round you naturally get the stockinette stitch). For this project I recommend casting on about 31 stitches and knitting enough rounds to get you about 6-inches in length.
If you have further questions please let us know.
Best wishes,
Kumeko
2 questions: 1) being a single-ply yarn, does it tend to bias? and 2) can you post a better image of the underarm/raglan area? I want to see how this works. Thank you, Pat Mersman in Takilma, Oregon.
Hi Patricia,
Thanks for writing in! We do not find that Flax Down biases when you knit it. The fabric of the sweater is even. Additionally, we do not have a photo of the the underarm area. All of the images that we currently have available of the sweater are shown above. I’d be happy to answer any questions you may have about the underarm area. Please let me know if there is anything that I can clarify for you!
Best,
Cassy
I just purchased the yarn and pattern for this sweater. I love it! In reading through the directions I’m just a little confused by the direction “continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round…” Is it — stockinette stitch (knit every other round) or knitting each round (garter stitch)? This direction is throughout the pattern. Please advise. Thanks
Hello, Mae!
Thank you for writing in! Great question! Knitting in the round is slightly different from knitting flat. When you knit stockinette flat you knit one row and purl one row and repeat. However, when you’re knitting in the round you create the stockinette stitch by knitting each round (which is pretty cool). Please let us know if you have further questions!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
I love the Classic Hemmed Crewneck. Do you have it in a cardigan? – All your patterns are so beautiful. I appreciate your emails.
🙂 Sheryl Muraca
Hello, Sheryl!
Thank you for writing in and thank you for your kind words! Unfortunately, we don’t have a cardigan version of this sweater, but we do have some lovely cardigan patterns available. Please check these out and let us know what you think.
New Treeline Striped Cardigan
Classic Knit Jacket
Top Down Shawl Collar Cardigan
Folded Squares Cardigan
Best,
Kumeko
Hello!
This is beautiful and looks like a classic–is it knit top down? Easy to make longer–can you just keep knitting a couple more inches at the bottom or is there shaping anywhere?
Thanks,
Beverley
Hi, Beverley!
Thank you for your questions! This sweater is knit bottom-up and there is no shaping from the bottom to the armholes. There is raglan shaping at the yoke and some short rows at the back shoulders. If you have further questions please let us know! Again, thank you for writing in.
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Lovely. Is this sweater top down?
Hello, Brenda!
Thank you for your comment! This sweater is knit bottom up! Please let us know if you have further comments!
Best,
Kumeko
Is it top down?
Hello, Pat!
Thank you for writing in! This pattern is knit bottom up. If you have further questions please let us know!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Can you tell me if this (beautiful) sweater is knit from the top down?
Hello, Kendall!
Thank you so much for writing in! This sweater is knit bottom down. If you have further questions please let us know!
Best,
Kumeko
Can this pattern be adapted to men? I would like to knit my boyfriend a sweater. He is about a size medium.
Hello, Hanna!
Thank you for your question! This can totally be knit for a man! For a more customized fit, I recommend measuring your boyfriend (chest circumference, arm lengths, etc.). If you have any questions regarding pattern modifications just let us know, we are more than happy to help!
Best,
Kumeko
When your pattern gives the measurement for ease, does that mean it is included in the size (i.e., the smallest size fits bust/chest size approx. 32 – 33″) or that it must be added to fit?
Thanks – I LOVE your patterns and made the lattice crewneck last summer for a friend of mine!
Hello, Chris!
Thank you for writing in! And thank you for your kind words! The 4-6 inches of ease is included in the size. If you have further questions please let us know!
Best,
Kumeko
This is my idea of the perfect sweater, simple and sophisticated, layer or not. Can’t wait til the white comes back in stock.
Hi, Nacny!
Thank you for kind words! Have you signed up to be notified when the Heirloom White is back in stock? If not, you can do so here. Just click the link right above the “Save to Favorites” button.
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Do the hemmed cuffs for the sleeves need to be knitted with double pointed needles or would circular needles using magic loop work as well?
Hi Grace.
Magic loop would definitely work.
Thanks for asking.
Laura
Is the yarn used for it similar to a worsted weight yarn?
Hi Barbara.
Great question. Thanks for asking. Flax Down is a Light Worsted or what some people call DK weight. I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any questions.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Hello,
I love this pattern, and many of your others, but I would like to use some yarn I already have. I am not familiar with the yarns you sell, are you able to tell me what ply the Flax Down is? Once I have knitted through my stash I will be sure to be ordering some of your beautiful yarns.
Thanks
Hi Xanthe,
Thank you for your kind words! Our Flax Down is a DK weight.
Happy knitting!
Cassy
I think I just answered my own question – Dk weight is 8 ply.
Ill be ordering your pattern now then!
Hi Xanthe,
You are correct! DK roughly correlates to 8 ply.
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Beautiful sweater! A questions though, could you point me to patterns that have waist shaping? As a slender, but busty hourglass shaped person, it’s really hard to pull off sweaters without 🙁 I love a lot of your sweater patterns, but haven’t tried one yet for this reason. I understand it adds some difficulty, but surely I can’t be only female knitter that doesn’t have a straight build.
Hi Simone,
Thank you for your kind words! None of our sweaters have waist shaping. Waist shaping does add some complication but not a huge amount. At its base, waist shaping involves decreasingly evenly on either side of where the back and front of the sweater meet and then increasing similarly to accommodate for the bust. This essentially creates a slight pinch in at the waist. It is possible to add waist shaping to a pattern but I would recommend starting out knitting one that already has waist shaping built in so that would could learn the basics of how it is done. I find that Ravelry is a great resource for finding patterns with specific construction types.
We’ll keep you request for sweaters with waist shaping in mind!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Hi! Do you think the Quill doubled would give a similar gauge? I really want a sweater in the salt and pepper!
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for writing in! That sounds like a very creative and even more lovely idea! The Linen Quill can be knitted on a US 7 doubled and has a similar gauge to Flax Down singled. I think it would be wise to do a gauge swatch in the round with the Quill doubled before starting the sweater. From there, depending on if the gauge is tighter or looser, you can decide whether to knit a size up or down. Since this sweater is meant to fit on the looser side (and is also pictured that way), there is some flexibility in gauge. I hope this helps you make your decision! Good luck on your adventure!
Best,
Adam
I’m knitting this and it’s gorgeous! I’m stuck on a section of the pattern that I don’t understand — shaping the back shoulders. It only mentions 2 markers and I have 4 raglan markers. What am I missing?
Thanks for your help — I’m so close yet so far from finishing!
Tracey
Hi Tracey,
Yes, you are so close! If you did the front neckline successfully, then you’ll have no problem knitting the back. The two markers that we refer to in this pattern are the back left and right raglan markers. The back neck is shaped with short rows and you will be starting at the beginning of round marker at the wearer’s right front neck. Follow the directions to get where you need to wrap and turn. You will end up 7-8 stitches beyond your back left shoulder marker. This is where you wrap and turn. When you purl back, you will end up wrapping and turning again 10-11 stitches after you pass your back right raglan marker. Keep wrapping and turning as prescribed and you will be finished with the sweater in no time. Please let me know if you have any other confusion with this!
Best,
Adam
Thanks so much — that was exactly what I needed to know. I finished and am proudly wearing my beautiful new sweater!
Thanks again,
Tracey
Hi there!
I’m a reasonably new knitter, I havnt done a pattern like this before and the only shaping I have done has been on hats.
Would you say this is an easyish knit? I want a new challenge but nothing I can’t handle 🙂
Thank you!
Helen
Hi Helen,
Thank you for your interest in this pattern! I think you should give this sweater a shot. You will learn some new techniques, like hems and short rows, but the shaping along the raglan line and sleeves is like decreasing on a hat. You’ll definitely learn a lot and become a better knitter if you take on a sweater. Luckily, this one is a great entry level garment project.
Best,
Adam
I’m working on the first sleeve and am confused. It says to remove end of round marker, K5, place previous 11 stitch holder for underarm (60 stitches). First, does this mean K5 and then place the 11 stitches before those 5 on the holder? Second, do the other 60 stitches go on a separate stitch holder? Thanks so much!! Loving this pattern and the beautiful yarn I purchased at your store!!
Hello Laura,
Thanks for the nice compliment! This pattern ends up making a beautiful sweater. For the sleeve you will knit 5 stitches past the end of round marker and then place those 5 stitches plus the 6 stitches before it on a stitch holder or scrap yarn for the underarm. Essentially, you’ll place the last 11 stitches you’ve knit on hold. This is the underarm and it will eventually be grafted to the body underarm with kitchener stitch. I hope this helps!
Best,
Adam
Love this sweater! Just finished in the Lavender Opal ( the yarn is divine!) and it is gorgeous. I especially love the short-row technique for the neckline, it looks really professionally finished.
Hi Dawn!
So glad you like the pattern!
Was in your store on Tuesday and saw sweater on the counter near the cash register. WhenI called today I was told that it was this sweater. However the one in the store had an entirely different finish o the bodies and sleeves. Am I looking at the wrong item?? Thank you.
Hi Mary,
Thanks for writing in! I do not think that this is the sweater that you saw. The sweater that has most recently been near the register is our newest sweater the Lightweight Raglan Pullover. I hope that this helps!
Best,
Cassy
I am having some difficulty understanding the set up round of beginning to shape the neckline. My current end of round is the beginning of the front stitches. Can you walk me through the directions? Do I knit to the next marker twice which puts me at the start of the back stitches so if I knit 33 stitches I am in the back stitches not the front neckline. Please help. I am obviously doing something wrong. I am anxious to finish the sweater.
Thank you.
Lisa
Hi Lisa,
I’m sorry you’re having trouble with this part of the pattern! I’ll try to explain:
The end of round is actually at the wearer’s back right and when you knit to marker twice you should end up at the front left. This is where you will knit 33 stitches and then place 20 on hold for the front neck. After this you will knit to end of round. When you get to the end of round you’ll slip your right sleeve and right neck back on to the left needle and the right front neck edge will become your beginning of round. I hope this has made things a bit clearer! Please write me if you have any other questions!
Best,
Adam
Thank you. That was very helpful!
Lisa.
i’m confused here as well, but your answer above doesn’t seem to clarify things for me! i see the directions for the front right neck, (making short rows) but don’t see how to get to, or instructions to repeat process for front left neck. and since there’s a stitch holder separating them, i’m perplexed…
thanks!
MJ
Hi there,
Sorry for the late reply! I hope I can clarify this part of the pattern for you! After you slip the front neckline stitches on to a holder you will knit to the original end of round marker and then slip the right sleeve and front neckline stitches back on to the circular needle (the left-hand needle if the right side of the garment is facing you). This brings you to the right front neckline as the beginning of round. You will now be working the right front neck, right sleeve, back, left sleeve and left front necklines back and forth in short rows, wrapping and turning to create the curve of the neck. I hope this helps!
Best,
Adam
Hi my favorite knitting site and store! Ok, I’m at where this comment left off. I am at the right front. The instruction says to join yarn. But the yarn I cut is on the opposite side of where my next knit begins. Is that right? How do I begin the next step? Do I just start knitting with the beginning of a “fresh” yarn? I hope my confusion is clear. I guess I need to know what to do with the yarn I cut before I slipped stitches. (I’m shaping the neckline) thank you!
Hi Emmi,
Thanks for writing again! Yes, you’ll start with a fresh end of yarn. Best of luck and let me know if you have any other questions!
-Adam
I love love the toasted charcoal colour but it is not shown in the Flax down list. When will it be available?
Hi Elizabeth,
Thank you for your kind words! Sadly, Toasted Charcoal has been discontinued in Flax Down. As an alternative, I would recommend either Stillwater Blue or Kettle Black. Both of these colors are on the darker side but still have the richness of Toasted Charcoal.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
The single ply of your Flax Down causes me to wonder about pilling. How does this yarn behave if the garment is worn frequently?
Thanks,
Elizabeth
Hello Elizabeth,
Thank you for your question! As a single ply yarn the garment will pill some but not a ton. In my experience with this yarn there is more fuzzing and halo than pilling. The pill that do arise and the fuzz that does get out of control is easily controllable with a sweater shaver like the Gleener. I hope you will choose the yarn because it is so incredibly soft and unique. Best of luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
I have a question regarding what size of sweater to knit. Should I measure the chest circumference and then add 4-6 inches for ease and choose the size closest to those total inches. For example if chest circumference is 37 = 4-6 inches of ease = size 42?
Hi Nancy,
You are spot on! If you like the look of how the sweater is worn on our model with the 4-6 inches of positive ease, you would add 4-6 inches to your bust measurement and knit the corresponding size.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Hello,
When measuring from the hemmed edge – is that the absolute bottom of the work where the fold is or the edge where the work continues after the hem is complete?
Thanks!
Hi Sara,
Thanks for writing in! When measuring from the hemmed edge you are measuring from the absolute bottom edge of the sweater, NOT counting the part that is folded under. Whenever you measure for body length you will always measure what will be visible on the outside of the garment. I hope this helps! Let us know if you have any other questions!
-Adam
The yarn and the finished outcome are completely delicious. But gosh, arriving at the finish was jolly hard work and oftentimes I felt the instructions were unnecessarily complicated for such a simple design. Having so many stitches and pieces all on one needle allowed NO room for error and frankly the final part – the neck – was horrendous. My knitting skills may not be great but I have the luxury of a weekly knitting tutor who has the skills who also struggled at times. I remain a great admirer and hope my request for simplicity can be applied to future projects. With thanks. Diana
Hi Diana,
Thanks for writing in. I’m glad the outcome was great and I hope that the process was worth it. I also hope you learned a lot about sweater construction in knitting this project! Sweaters are tough and we try to explain everything in as much detail as we can. I hope that you’ll find that we have much simpler sweater patterns on our website. As for the neck, it might have been a pain, but it sure does make the garment fit a whole lot better!
Best,
Adam
Hello Purl Bee,
Thanks for this beautiful pattern.
I have a very lovely wool I would like to use, but I cannot get better any better gauge than 19 stitches for 4 inches. I cannot use a smaller needle size, the wool cannot stand it. And I would really like to use that one.
I know it is not so simple, but do you think going for one larger size of pattern could slightly compensate it?
Thanks for any suggestion you could give me.
Lucio
Hi Lucio,
Thanks for writing in! I think that you could use this yarn since the gauge is similar. It just depends on which size you are doing. With your current gauge you will get approximately a 41″ chest if you follow the directions for the smallest size. This doesn’t accommodate for row gauge however and you might end up with a slightly longer sweater. If you select a chest size that you want to do, just multiply 4.75 (your current stitches per inch) by the chest size you want and choose a cast on number in the pattern that is closest. I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any other questions!
-Adam
Does the flax yarn shed? I’m worried that if I buy a light color, it will shed all over my black pants. Thanks
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for writing in! The Flax Down doesn’t really shed a lot but it does fuzz quite a bit and has a high halo. This lends to its softness. I don’t think that it would come off too much on black pants, but it will a little bit. If you are looking for a smoother yarn, I suggest looking at Anzula Cricket. It is high quality and doesn’t shed pretty much!
All the best,
Adam
Thank you for letting me know. The fuzz up my nose would bother me quite a bit. I will consider your options on substitute yarns.
Have to return the flax down yarn as I cannot deal with the way it sheds fibers up my nose and in my eyes. Can you suggest another yarn for this sweater in some kind of wool in your inventory that does not shed?
Hi Tessa,
Sorry to hear about this! I suggest the Cashmere Merino Bloom, Anzula Cricket or the Cascade 220 Sport. These are great yarns that you work well with the pattern.
All the best,
Adam
I wonder if there’s an error in the pattern in raglan decrease round. It’s similar to body decrease round – or can’t I just figure it out? I think it’s missing the sleeve decreases.
Hi Ester,
Thanks for the question! The pattern is correct. For the beginning of the raglan decreases you don’t decrease from the sleeve section. You’ll eventually eliminate stitches at the sleeve, but this will happen later on. Best of luck!
-Adam
I wondered if your patterns include only US imperial measurements or do you include metric as well? Thanks!
Hi Emma,
Thanks for writing in! Our patterns are written in US measurements. We appreciate the requests for metric measurements and will certainly keep them in mind for the future!
Best,
Cassy
I’m at the very end! I think that I need to have some guiding yarn to pick up the purl side… I used black so it’s hard to tell if I’m picking up the right stitch. Do you have any suggestions or give me a link to help me? I hate to mess up the neckline! thanks!
Hi Emmi,
Thanks for the question. The neckline on this garment is very difficult to do, but you’ll find that if you spend more time prepping to get the neckline even, you’ll have far less trouble.
1. You can mark 2″ below by counting how many rows you’ve done from the start of the neckband. I suggest counting down from every 20th stitch on your needle and marking with a removable marker. This will clarify where you’ll join.
2. Measure 2″ down and sew in a line with a contrasting color yarn or thread. Be sure to take your time and pick up only the stitches that are in that round (not above or below).
Hope this helps!
-Adam
I just came across your site, and I’m impressed that you take comments and answer each one carefully. Lovely!
Hi Sybil,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words! We love our community and appreciate our commenters!
Best,
Cassy
Hi, I noticed that the purl soho pull over is unisex. Is the classic hemmed crew neck also unisex, or am I dreaming? Also, if you could let me know if any of your other sweaters are unisex I would be very grateful.
Cheers!
Hi Todd,
Thanks for the question! This sweater is unisex if you lengthen the body and sleeves. In fact, a lot of our sweaters, including the Lightweight Raglan Pullover, Twisted Rib Pullover and the Top-Down Shawl Collar Cardigan are unisex if you lengthen them. Hope you like the suggestions!
-Adam
Thank you so much Adam, this gives me some options for the next project!
I hope I’m not asking something already asked, above. I love the look of this sweater, but what about the hemmed edge? In past projects, I did not like the static or un stretchy quality of a bottom hemmed edge. Does the pattern somehow give the hem some stretch? Or, how can you magically do that?
Hi Lynn,
Thanks for writing us. The hemmed edge is not as stretchy as the ribbed edge, but it does offer a clean line from armhole to hem edge. We have done nothing in the pattern to make the edge stretchier, but since the sweater is made for a boxy fit you won’t need much stretch. Hope this helps!
-Adam
Thanks Adam. I just watched the hem video. Maybe this technique will lend more “give” to the hem, instead of the stitched hem I assumed I would do. I think I’ll test it first.
Cheers,
I tried it and it remarkably stretchy. I’ll never bother with a stitched hem again. Thanks for the videos!
Hi, I was just wondering whether I need to order 32 or 40-inch circular needles for sweater size 42. Thank you!
Hi Olivia!
Thank you for writing in! I recommend ordering the 40-inch circular needle. Please let us know if you have any more questions.
Best wishes,
Kumeko
hello from Canada. I was in your lovely shop last week, and bought 4 balls of Linen Quill, Kiln Red to make the pullover sweater on display (in a greyish white if memory works) with the interesting doubled hem (no idea how to describe what you’d done to the cuffs and bottom of sweater, other than knit down to create a crease) I was told the sweater was a free pattern on your site, but cannot find it. This sweater seems closest, but not quite the same. Can you help? Thanks, Anne
Hi Anne,
Thanks for writing in and we are so glad that you were able to visit us at the shop! The sweater that you are referring to is the LIghtweight Raglan Pullover and can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2016/05/31/lightweight-raglan-pullover/
Happy knitting!
Cassy
May I use Cashmere Merino Bloom to knit this sweater?
Hi Teri,
Thanks for writing in! I think that Cashmere Merino Bloom is a great substitute for the Flax Down! Best of luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
Love this sweater…could a total newbie knitter do this? Or would you direct me to other, easier projects first. This doesn’t look complicated?!
Thanks so much
Hi Susan,
Thanks for the question! Glad to see you are enthusiastic about knitting! While this sweater looks super easy, there are some more-advanced skills like knit hems, short rows, increases and decreases. If you have done any of these techniques before, I’d read through the pattern and see if you can grasp it. Otherwise, I would hold off and tag this as a pattern to aspire to. Nothing wrong with that!
All the best,
Adam
I love your patterns, but I knit with a needle under my arm and cannot knit on the round. I would love to knit this one. Please come up with patterns that are not on the round. I think there are many of us who prefer to knit with single pointed needles.
Hi Laura,
Thanks for the suggestion! I suggest looking at Goode. This is a Purl Soho pattern that is knit flat. We definitely will keep your recommendation in mind for the future!
All the best,
Adam
I wish you would, or at least adapt your patterns to sp needles. I would buy a lot of them!
Laura