Crosshatch Cowl
On one side, our Crosshatch Cowl’s delicate criss-es and crosses appear etched by hand; while on the other, ridges resemble furrowed rows of just-planted seeds. This fabric may abound in complexity and dimensional interest, but it’s really just a simple spin on easy-as-pie stockinette stitch!
Each stroke of the Crosshatch Cowl is drawn with Purl Soho’s single ply, fine merino yarn, aptly named Line Weight. We worked this fingering weight yarn on nice, big needles so that the fabric springs with extra loft and the light shines through!
No one else needs to know how little effort it takes to create this Crosshatch Cowl! Happy knitting! -Laura
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoCrosshatchCowl, and #PurlSohoLineWeight. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 1 (2) skein(s) of Purl Soho’s Line Weight, 100% merino. Each skein is 494 yards; approximately 450 (900) yards required. We used the color Heirloom White.
- A US 11 (8 mm), 60-inch circular needle
- A stitch marker
Gauge
25 stitches = 4 inches in stitch pattern (blocked)
Size
Narrow (Wide)
- Finished Width (blocked): 7 (14) inches
- Finished Circumference (blocked): 74 inches (long enough to wrap around twice or three times!)
Sample: The sample pictured here uses approximately 1 1/4 skeins and measures 8 3/4 inches wide.
Pattern
Cast on 464 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Place marker and join for working in the round being careful to not twist the stitches.
Round 1: *K2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains in the round, slip one purlwise, remove marker, replace slipped stitch onto left needle, K2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, replace stitch marker.
Here’s a short video that may clarify the stitch…
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures approximately 7 (14) inches from the cast-on edge.
Continue to work the stitch pattern to bind off. Here’s how…
[K2tog and slip only the first stitch off the left needle] 2 times, pass the first stitch over (just like a normal bind off), *k2tog and slip the first stitch off the left needle, pass the first stitch over, repeat from * until 2 stitches remain (1 stitch on the left needle and 1 stitch on the right needle), knit the last stitch and pass the first stitch over. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitch.
Weave in the ends and block gently.
Hello,
Just wondering if there is a smaller version of this cowl? Thanks so much!
Cyndi
Hi Cyndi,
Thanks for writing in. There is no pattern on our site for a smaller version, but you can certainly make your own by casting on in multiples of two. Best of luck and let me know if you have any questions!
-Adam
I’m wondering the same thing — any suggestions for how many stitches to cast on if I am making this for a toddler and only need it to wrap around once? Thanks!
Hi, Nicole!
Thank you for writing in! This is a great question and it depends upon the size of the toddler. Most toddler’s scarves range from 36-inches to 40-inches so a cowl with either of those measurements as the circumference should work. I recommend getting out a measuring tape and seeing which length you prefer. Then you can calculate the number of cast on stitches based off the length you like. For example, if you decide that 40-inches is good, you would take 6.25 (this is from the cowl’s gauge 25 stitches = 4-inches, so 25 divided by 4 is 6.25) and multiply that by 40 (for 40-inches).
So, 6.25 x 40 = 250, so you’d cast on 250 stitches. If you decide to go with a different length be sure that your cast on number is a multiple of 2.
If you have further questions, please let us know. Again, thank you for writing in!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Hi, this oattern is lovely
Im quite new to blocking in knitting. How should i block a cowl since its in the round ( a scarf i would just pin it) but the snood thing is co fusing me.
Also do i just pin it after being very wet? Can you help me with the blocking process? Thank you so much
Hi Catherine,
Thanks for the question! I suggest you soak the cowl in warm water and soap until it’s saturated and then squeeze dry. You’ll probably want to roll it up in a towel and apply pressure to get the excess water out. After that you’ll lay flat to dry — no pins needed. Thanks!
-Adam
Am not getting the joining correct place marker & join. Is that what the slip the 1 last stitch purlwise remove marker take the one purl stitch onto the other needle and then replace the stitch marker?
Love the look of this scarf and am trying hard to get it right. Thanking u in advance. Pug Hugs to u!
Hi Deb,
Initially you’ll join in the round by placing your end of round marker but as you complete the stitch pattern you will need to shift the marker in order to K2tog. After your first round you should end up with one stitch before the marker. In order to K2tog you’ll need to remove the marker and replace it. Hope this makes sense! Please feel free to ask more questions if you are still having trouble!
-Adam
I’ve tried doing a swatch of this stitch (like in the video) for practice before attempting the 464 cast on. And, I’m running into trouble – I find it so difficult to knit this stitch and get my right needle under the two stitches to knit. Am I casting on and knitting too tight? Do I just need to power through? I want to attempt this project but I’m feeling nervous about my practice attempt failures. I think I read you recommend a long tail cast on, which is what I’ve been doing, but it is just so difficult to knit those two stitches without it getting so tight. What am I doing wrong?
Hi Emily,
Thanks for writing in! This stitch can be a little difficult to get the hang of at first but after a few stitches, it should become easier to accomplish. It does sound like maybe you are casting on too tightly. I love the idea of practicing on a swatch! I think that you should power through on the swatch until you get the feel for the stitch. Easing up on your tension can be very helpful with the stitch given how dense it is!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Cast on over two needles instead of just one – that way first row will be looser to access and also lay flatter,
Has anyone figured out a way to fix a mistake for this pattern?
I am almost finished and dropped a couple stitches. 🙁
If there is an answer, I would love to know also!
Hi Rita,
Unfortunately the only answer to fixing this is to rip back and restring the stitches on the needle. Best of luck and let me know if you have any other questions.
-Adam
I actually had to rip out several rows, but the “loops” were super-simple to put back on the needle. And this from someone who is terrified of frogging!
If it’s immediate or not to far back, you can tink the stitches, the first stitch as usual, and the second as a “knit one below”. Check YouTube for a video tutorial.
Hi!
I am having some issues with joining in the round without twisting stitches because the needle is so long and the yarn is so thin. Do you know of any tips or tricks to avoid or correct this?
Thanks!
Hi Blair,
Thank you for writing in! First, congrats on casting on ALL those stitches and joining in the round, that was no easy feat! It’s very difficult to tell if you have twisted your stitches when working with such a large number of stitches. With this high number of stitches you may not know until you’ve knit several rows. If you’ve twisted stitches your knitting will have a twist rather than being a flat and smooth. Try laying your work down on a table and seeing if all the stitches are facing the same way without a twist.
Best,
Cassy
I cast on 234 stitches.
Cowl is a knockout!
Thank you for short tutorial.
Gabi.
Hi, can you show how to pick up a dropped stitch for this type of knit?
Hi Shyloh,
Thanks for the question but unfortunately we don’t have a tutorial on how to pick up a dropped stitch for this pattern. I have, however, fixed this stitch before and the only way is to rip back and restring the previous round on the needle. Let me know how it goes — I’d be happy to answer any questions you have.
Best,
Adam
Hi! Is the pattern the same when knitting on straight needles and not in the round? I want to make a scarf with this pattern.
Hi Amanda,
Thanks for writing in. The pattern in the round does not translate the same when knitted flat.
Best,
Adam
Adam,
Clarification/follow up – how did you guys knit the small swatch flat (shown in the video)? I would also like to swatch it before attempting the huge cast on – how can I do a small flat sample? Thanks!
Hello Cay,
Thank you for reaching out! You will need to knit your swatch in the round for this project.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello. I was thinking about knitting this scarf in 2ply cashmere and was wondering how it would look? I still want a light cowl but I just don’t have the patience to deal with line weight yarn and I admit I love the softness of cashmere 🙂
Hi Ally,
Thanks for writing in! You can certainly use Jade Sapphire’s 2 ply Cashmere in place of our Line Weight. I think it will make a lovely cowl. I would be sure to knit a gauge swatch with the recommended needles and you may need to change the needle size to get the desired fabric!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Ally,
I just ordered the same yarn – cashmere 2 ply. I was wondering if you had to change needle size. Also for Castiglioni on did you cast on two needles so the casts were looser? It’s my first ‘real’ project after kitchen towels and even a per sweater.
Thanks for the tips.
Hi Cecilia,
Thanks for writing in! You may be able to use the same needles here but I would certainly recommend knitting a gauge swatch to be sure that you like the fabric using these needles. If you feel like the fabric is too loose, you can always for down a needle size. Additionally, some folks do cast on using a larger needle as the first row can be a bit challenging if you naturally a tight knitter. I’d recommend trying all of this out with some scrap yarn and needles to see how you like it!
Best,
Cassy
Thank you for the free pattern.
I am am definitely going to knit this Beauty.
This yarn is a fingerling weight and you use a size 11 needle? I would expect a lacy look with that needle size but your photos suggest a much denser fabric being created. Please confirm the needles size used in this pattern. Cast on of 464 stitches on a size 11 needle should work out to much more than 74 inches circumference.
Hi Jeannie,
Thanks for writing in! The stitch pattern that we used here is extremely dense and would be quite stiff on needles that would more traditionally be used with yarn of this size. In order to get a drapey and soft fabric, you will need to use US 11 needles. Be assured that the US 11s will make a lovely cowl!
Best,
Cassy
Wondering if the picture shown is the narrow or wide version?
thanks,
Linda
I just read comment and one stated that the shown cowl was 8 3/4 inches. My daughter likes the look of this…..how much yarn would I need? Hate to waste most of a skein though.
Hi Linda,
Thanks for writing in! For the 8 3/4 inch version, you will need roughly 1 1/4 skeins of Line Weight. If you would like to use the remainder of the skein, there should be a enough left to make lovely hat!
If you were to go slightly thinner, you could get a 7 inch wide cowl from 1 skein!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
If you only did a 7″ width and wanted to wrap it only twice, could you get away with 1 skein? Thank you. Or perhaps you could stick with the 8 3/4 and wrap it twice and still only use 1 skein?
Hi Maura,
Thanks for writing back! You certainly can make the cowl shorter around, allowing for more yarn to used for the height! We recommend between 55-60 inches for a double wrap cowl. Once you decide on a length, you can calculate the number of cast on stitches based off the length you like. For example, if you decide that 58-inches is good, you would take 6.25 (this is from the cowl’s gauge 25 stitches = 4-inches, so 25 divided by 4 is 6.25) and multiply that by 58 (for 58-inches).
So, 6.25 x 40 = 362.5, so you’d cast on 362 stitches. If you decide to go with a different length be sure that your cast on number is a multiple of 2!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi Linda,
Thanks for writing in! The sample shown here is somewhere in between! We knit a cowl that is 8 3/4 inches wide and uses roughly 1 1/4 skeins of our Line Weight!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I’ve been looking for a way to use some line weight remnants up, and love the look of this cowl. Any reason it wouldn’t work with stripes (probably larger ones — 2-4″ each on the wider size)? Tips or suggestions for making color changes?
Thanks!
Hi Amy,
Thanks for writing in! I think that this could work very well striped. Looking through the projects on Ravelry, I see that a few striped versions have been done. They tend to have wider stripes as you described and look quite nice! I also love the idea of using up your remaining Line Weight; such a great idea!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
I love the pattern, but I am concerned about the edges rolling even after wet blocking. Any suggestions?
Hi Paulette,
Thanks for writing in! The edges of this cowl can tend to roll a little bit but we find that it is not too much and the effect is quite charming when worn. If you are having more rolling than you would like, you could do a single crochet border around the cast on and the cast off edge to give each edge a little more stability.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Size US11 ? Seems large needle for fingering weight yarn would make it more Lacey.
Hi Carol,
Thanks for writing in! It does seem large but this stitch pattern is extremely dense and the large needles allow for the fabric to be drapey and lovely!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Cool!
What a brilliant, simple method! Never thought of it before. Even after knitting for 46 years, I am astounded by how little I know & by the endless variations achievable by needle orientation and yarn placement.
Thanks!
I don’t understand the point of the stitch marker. Aren’t you just going around and around using the same stitch until it is the finished width? Do you do something different after the first round?
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for writing in! In order to prevent a spiral effect and give the join a nice, finished look, we slip the last stitch of each round purlwise, remove the marker, replace the slipped stitch onto left needle, K2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, replace stitch marker. Then you continue on as before with the crosshatch stitch.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
This looks fantastic.
Does it roll the way stockingette stitch usually does?, or does the cross-hatch effect solve that problem?
Hi Jill,
Thanks for writing in! The crosshatch stitch does not roll in the same way that stockinette tends to. That said, the edges of this cowl can tend to roll a little bit but we find that it is not too much and the effect is quite charming when worn. If you are having more rolling than you would like, you could do a single crochet border around the cast on and the cast off edge to give each edge a little more stability.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I’ve been a knitting instructor for a number of years and will often suggest the use of a ‘life line’ when a mistake is difficult or impossible to fix. It gives a sense of security knowing that the line will stop you at a place where everything before it was perfect. It is also easier to pick up stitches after ripping back if one uses a much smaller needle.
Another helpful tip when knitting in the round is to use cables with interchangeable tips and put a needle tip two or three sizes smaller than the pattern suggests on the left side. That makes sliding the stitches up toward the point much easier. The right needle determines the gauge so it works very nicely.
Hi Lynn,
Thanks for writing in! And thanks for sharing your tips! I am sure that others will appreciate the insight!
Best,
Cassy
Would Linen Quill work for this cowl? Thanks.
Hi Lee,
Thanks for writing in! Linen Quill will certainly work for this cowl! The yardage is a little less per skein for the Linen Quill so I would suggest using 2 skeins to get a good sized cowl!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Beautiful, imaginative pattern. Looking forward to using line weight yarn with this stitch. Thanks for this!
Can this pattern be done in a smalller needle?
Thanks. Kaybertieri
Hi there,
Yes, you can knit this on smaller needles but your yarn size will have to be thinner as well. This stitch is very dense when knit up, so in order to get a nice fabric, you need to have a rather large needle.
Thanks!
-Adam
Help please! I’ve been trying to complete a swatch and my knitting continues to produce ribs and doesn’t look like the picture as shown – which seems to be flat. What am I doing wrong?
Thanks.
Hi Mari,
Thanks for writing us! You might be knitting your swatch flat (turning the work) instead of in the round. Take a look at our Swatching for Circular Gauge tutorial. This will definitely help!
Adam
What is the best cast-on method for the Crosshatch Cowl?
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for writing in! I would recommend doing a Long Tail cast on for this pattern.
-Marilla
Please help! I’ve dropped a stitch in the crosshatch and I can’t quite figure out how to pick it up properly!! Any advice for fixing this?!
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately the only answer to fixing this is to rip back and restring the stitches on the needle.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hello! Could you use the flax down for this project?
Thank you!
Hi Kate,
Thanks for writing in! Flax Down is quite a bit thicker than the yarn we used here. While you can use, Flax Down, the pattern would require a fair amount of reworking. You could use Linen Quill for this pattern with no modifications (although you may need 2 skeins). Linen Quill has a similar fiber content to Flax Down but with a finer gauge and a tighter twist.
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Hi Cyndi,
I love the look of this scarf. My question for you is would this pattern work with a Malou Light Baby Alpaca yarn? Also would I still use the same size needle as mentioned in the pattern. I already have the yarn and would like to use it for a infinity scarf.
Thanks Kelly
Hi Kelly,
Thanks for writing in! I am not familiar with the yarn that you are hoping to use but a look on Ravelry shows it to be an Aran weight yarn. The yarn that we used here is a light fingering weight. If you would like to use your yarn you certainly can. I would suggest using a US 19. To figure out a cast on number, you will need to knit a small gauge swatch in pattern. Once you know the number of stitches that you are getting per inch, you will multiply that by the number of inches that you would like the cowl to be and cast on the nearest even number!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Can you knit this not in the round?
Hello Brittini,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately this pattern does not translate into being knit flat.
Warmly,
Marilla
Hello,
I love this pattern and have been trying this on a patch. How exactly can I bind this off, however?
Thank you very much for your help.
Friederike
Hello Friederike,
The instructed bind off is as follows:
[K2tog and slip only the first stitch off the left needle] 2 times, pass the first stitch over (just like a normal bind off), *k2tog and slip the first stitch off the left needle, pass the first stitch over, repeat from * until 2 stitches remain (1 stitch on the left needle and 1 stitch on the right needle), knit the last stitch and pass the first stitch over. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitch.
Happy knitting!
Carly
Hello there, this pattern is using fingering yarn. Needle us 11 would be 8mm. Its quite bug for the yarn.
Hi Linh,
Thanks for writing in! The stitch pattern that we used here is extremely dense and would be quite stiff on needles that would more traditionally be used with yarn of this size. In order to get a drapey and soft fabric, you will need to use US 11 needles. Be assured that the US 11s will make a lovely cowl!
Best,
Cassy
Silly question but my size 11 circular needles are too short for 434 stiches – could I make this using a size 10 or 12 needle and would I need to make any changes to the number of stitches? Or should I just buy a longer size 11?
Hi Amanda,
We are happy to help! I would suggest getting US 11 needles with a longer cord. US 10 needles may be too small to execute the stitch pattern and US 13 may create a lacier fabric than you would like.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
If I were to use a heavy fingering weight (~4p ply) to make this, would yo advise a larger needle size? Or would it be better not to try with a heavier yarn? Wondering if the density of the stitches could be an issue!
Hello Sarah,
Thank you for reaching out! You could certainly go up in needle size. This will just make the cowl larger. I would suggest knitting up a gauge swatch before jumping in to make sure you are happy with the texture.
I hope this helps and let me know if you have any further questions!
Warmly,
Marilla
Hello. Thank you for the crosshatch cowl pattern, it’s beautiful. I followed the directions for the bind off. However it was not as stretchy at the cast on row. Any tips on a stretchier bind off?
Hello Nikki,
Thank you for writing us! The key to getting a stretchier bind off is a loose bind off. The looser your bind off is the stretchier it will be.
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Marilla
I knitted the wide version of this pattern using the recommended Line Weight in Sea Salt as a wrap for my wedding. This is so worth the time investment especially if you can tough it out through casting on 464 stitches! It really turned out beautifully (with a few mistakes; it is handmade after all) and I received many compliments on the color choice (my dress was white top, grey bottom). I don’t think it would have turned out quite the same if I used different yarn, so I am grateful I followed the recommendation. Thanks for publishing this pattern because it became one of my favorite components of my wedding day outfit 🙂
Hi Mandy,
What a lovely story to share! We are so glad that this piece worked out so well for your special day!
Best,
Cassy
I love this pattern. The problem is I don’t know what to do when I drop a stitch by accident or make a mistake. Usually if I’m doing stockinette or garter or something similar, when I accidentally drop a stitch (or several), I know how to pick it back up. With this pattern, I’m totally lost. I had cast on 320 stitches, knit about 3.5″, and had to totally take it apart and start over because I couldn’t figure out how to replace the missing stitch. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
HI Jessica,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately the only answer to fixing this is to rip back and restring the stitches on the needle.
We did have a lovely knitter recommend using life lines. This is a process by which you string some spare yarn through all of the stitches on your needle every few rows (You will determine how often based on your preference. I would say every 5 to 10 rounds). YOu can then pull the spare yarn out once you have inserted the next life line. This allows you to pull out your needles, rip back to the life line and place all the stitches on the needle easily so that you can fix mistakes without too much worry!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi Cassy,
Is there an Alpaca I could use, and if so what size needle should I try for this Crosshatch Cowl?
Thank you,
Lowell
Hi Lowell,
Thanks for reaching out! The closest 100% alpaca yarn that we have is Blue Sky Royal Alpaca. This yarn is a bit thicker than our Line Weight so I would suggest going up to a US 13 and cast on fewer stitches. I would suggest knitting a gauge swatch to give you an idea of how many fewer stitches to cast on.
If you would like to use an alpaca blend, our Linen Quill would be lovely and you will need to make no changes!
Best,
Cassy
Thank you so much Cassy for your help and can’t wait to try! I was thinking you went away on vacation – because I forgot to refresh this page lol!
Many thanks,
Lowell
Thank you for such a gorgeous pattern and a wonderfully creative and practical use for a single skein a fingerling yarn! My issue is with the first row. I believe I understand the stitch as it’s pretty straightforward and your video is very helpful. No matter how loose I try to cast on, I have even tried doing so with one size larger of needles. I can’t seem to finish the first row. It is too tight! I seem to be only able to do the first row with the tips of my needles and after about 50 stitches I can’t get any farther and have to rip everything out. Also, how many stitches would you recommend if I were to follow the pattern exactly but only wrap around the cowel twice instead of three times? I am using the Purl Soho line weight yarn. I so want to finish this project, looking for any advice, please help! Thanks again , Lilo
Hi Lilo,
Thanks for writing in! The first row can be a challenge! I find that it is best to try to knit very loosely on that first row. Casting on with a larger needle certainly helps and then knit more loosely than you normally do. Additionally, if you would like to cast on for a double wrap, I would suggest between 350-364 stitches. This will give you a 54-58 inch circumference!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thanks for the response, I’ll keep trying! Also the smaller size may be more manageable 🙂
This is my first ‘real’ project. I started knitting it and after four rows learned I was all twisted. I restarted and followed the Dee’s No-Twist Circular Cast-On suggestion which uses a stretchy ribbon as a guide to make sure your cast ons aren’t twisted. I am now 10 rows into the project and it’s looking nice. I am using the 2 ply cashmere yarn- it looks great…. so far;)
This is my first knit-in-circle project! And I squeezed in the time to cast on for the 464 stitches at one night, the next night for the entire first row… then realized there was this one twist that ruined the whole thing….. I was so frustrated that I haven’t picked it up again. Seeing your post really makes me a little bit more confident! I will look into the no-twist method you mentioned! Any advice on joining the round? Thank you!
Hello Hazel,
Thank you for reaching out- I’m happy to hear that you are feeling hopeful after this frustrating experience! I would say not getting a twist is the most important part of joining in the round. The actual act of knitting your first stitch, to join, is pretty straight forward. Sounds like you are on the right track!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi Marilla,
I’d love to give this another try! How would you recommend me to cast on? Originally I used the correct size circular needle but I think I cast on too tight, so I used both needle while casting on. the result was two needles together with this extremely long cast on tube around them and the cord till almost the end of it. so it was quite tricky to pull one of the needle off and through the super long cast-on before I began 1st round. My addi short lace set only have up to US11, which is the size required for it.
Hello Hazel,
I’m happy to hear you are jumping back in! If you are having issues with your cast on being to tight, you are correct in thinking that a going up in needle size for the cast on is a logical solution, though I would go up to a US13 or US 15 at most. I would be concerned that doubling the needles will not only make the cast on extra challenging ( I’m impressed with your casting on skills!), but also cause issues due the cast on being to loose. Sense you don’t have a larger needle I would recommend trying it with your US11 and being consciously loose with your cast on. What cast on method are you using?
Let me know how it goes and if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Since I don’t currently own anything larger than US 11, I think I will try two US 7(equal to 1 US 13) or two US 8 (equal to 1 US 15, I believe) and see how it turns out… I used long tail cast on last time, is there any method you recommend? I think I need to do enough research to cast on the full amount of stitches again haha
Hello Hazel,
Thank you for reaching out! I’m very impressed with your ability to use 2 needles at once- I’m not sure I would have the coordination to accomplish this- You are clearly a very innovative person! I would stick with a long tail cast on and I would definitely use stitch markers to help you keep count of your stitches (this is a life saver in my experience).
Good luck and let us know how it goes!
Warmly,
Marilla
Hi, just wondering since line weight is so thin, and you knit the picture on size 11’s – it looks pretty dense to me. You mention the light coming through but I am not pairing the yarn weight with 11’s, seems way to hole-y? Am I missing something? I don’t see that the yarn was doubled….thanks for your reply.
Oops. I meant pairing the yarn with 11’s seems too hole-y.
Hi Jody!
Thanks for writing in! The crosshatch cowl is knit with a stitch technique similar to the herringbone stitch using only a single strand of fingering weight yarn. It creates a tightly woven looking fabric when knit on the larger needles.
I hope this helps!
Carly
Instead of a cowl, I’d like to make a crosshatch wrap. How would I adjust this pattern to be worked on straight needles (accounting for the right/wrong side) instead of circular ones? Thanks so much for the help!
Hi Rea,
Thank you for you interest in this lovely pattern!
Yes! This stitch can be worked flat…
Right Side: *K2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, k1.
Wrong Side: *P2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, p1.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Can you recommend how many stitches to cast on if knitting this on straight needles compared to circular? Also, what multiples should be used to cast on if working flat?
Thank you!
Hello Erin,
Thank you for reaching out! You can cast on any multiple of two for this pattern. The gauge for this pattern is 25 stitches per 4 inches in stitch pattern (blocked). This means that if you wanted a 20″ width you would cast on 124.
One thing to note is that when worked densely, an interesting, not untidy edge forms. When worked loosely however, (like here, using fingering weight on nice big needles) the edges become quite a bit messier looking. This is one of the reasons, at this gauge, we decided to make a cowl rather than a wrap or scarf.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi – I love this pattern but I’m having trouble keeping the stitches from twisting when I join the ends. Is there a trick? Thanks!
Hi Leslie,
Great question! It can be so frustrating to find a twist in a circular piece after you have already worked a few inches! I find it helpful to knit the first round before joining since it will be easier to see a twist around the needle when you have something a bit more substantial than just the cast on, and you can close up any gap when weaving in the tail of the cast on. You may also have an easier time if you use a longer circular needle – we recommend a 60″ needle so that you can spread the stitches out more which will make it easier to spot a twist.
I also like to do one last check after I have completed the first round after joining, because if there is a twist, you can still untwist it at this point when there is only a strand or two of yarn joining the cowl together without creating a too-obvious lump or bunchy area!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Julianna – Thank you so much for the tips! I really appreciate it and can’t wait to get going 🙂
How much yarn did you use for your long tail cast on? I’ve never used a long tail CO for so many stitches before :/
Hi Nicole,
Great question! I find that when using the long tail cast on a good rule of thumb is to use three times the width of your project. If you use this method you should have enough! For this project the finished circumference is 74 inches so you will want to start with roughly 222 inches or 18.5 feet. I always add just a little to make sure I have enough, so perhaps 19 feet!
Best,
Cassy
Is there a comparable silk, linen or cotton (or combination of these fibers) yarn that could be used for this pattern? Something other than wool?
Thanks
Hi Joyce,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend using our Cattail Silk – it is the correct weight for the pattern and has a lovely texture!
Best,
Julianna
Hi Purl Bee
I’m almost finish, but unfortunately i’dont understand the binding off. I knit 2 together and leave the first drop? Or slip it to the right needle?
Thanks for your answer
Patrizia
Hi Patrizia,
Thanks for writing in! You will essentially be continuing the same stitch pattern you used in the cowl while binding off. After knitting two together you will slip the first stitch off the needle, but will have one stitch on the right hand needle from working the k2tog. You will then repeat this step so you have two stitches on the right hand needle, and can bind one off.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi,
How can I do the test swatch if the stitch cannot be done flat? On the video tutorial, the swatch is obviously flat, but it is showing only one side of the pattern.
Thank you
Hello Louise,
Thank you for reaching out! You are correct this stitch can be worked flat by adjusting the pattern.
Right Side: *K2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, k1.
Wrong Side: *P2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, p1.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I think I may have dropped a stitch and recounting has given me three different stitch counts! In the event that I did drop a stitch how badly, if at all, will this tweak the pattern?
Hello Jennifer,
Thank you for reaching out- we have certainly all been there! This will affect your stitch quiet drastically, because this stitch pattern requires an even number of stitches. When I have to re-count this many stitches I will place a stitch marker every 25 stitches so that if I loose count all is not lost.
I hope this helps and good luck!
-Marilla
I attempted the cross hatch cowl with the line weight on large needles. It just wasn’t enjoyable. Can you possibly help me with yardage and cast on for using a sport or dk weight yard on size 7 or 9 needle?
Hi Joanne,
Thanks for reaching out! To knit this cowl in a thicker yarn, I would suggest knitting a gauge swatch in pattern, using a US 13 for sport weight yarn or US 15 for DK. You can then multiply your stitches per inch by 74 inches and round to the nearest even number to determine how many stitches to cast on. It’s hard to say for sure how much yardage you will need when changing the gauge of a pattern, but I would guess that you will need about 550 yards for sport weight or 500 yards for DK.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am having trouble printing copy of the crosshatch cowl pattern. May I get help on that?
Hi Sylvia,
Thanks for writing in! If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%.
If you are still having any difficulties printing the pattern, please reach out to us at customerservice@purlsoho.com!
Best,
Julianna
I’ve finished and am having difficulty understanding how to bind off. Can you please provide more clarity?
Hi Carol,
Thanks for reaching out! For the bind off you will start by [K2tog and slip only the first stitch off the left needle] 2 times. You will then pass the first stitch over (just like you would in a normal bind off), you will then continue the *k2tog and slip the first stitch off the left needle, pass the first stitch over, and repeat this from the * until 2 stitches remain (1 stitch on the left needle and 1 stitch on the right needle), knit the last stitch and pass the first stitch over. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitch.
I hope this clarifies things!
Warmly,
Gianna