Crosshatch Cowl
On one side, our Crosshatch Cowl’s delicate criss-es and crosses appear etched by hand; while on the other, ridges resemble furrowed rows of just-planted seeds. This fabric may abound in complexity and dimensional interest, but it’s really just a simple spin on easy-as-pie stockinette stitch!
Each stroke of the Crosshatch Cowl is drawn with Purl Soho’s single ply, fine merino yarn, aptly named Line Weight. We worked this fingering weight yarn on nice, big needles so that the fabric springs with extra loft and the light shines through!
No one else needs to know how little effort it takes to create this Crosshatch Cowl! Happy knitting! -Laura
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoCrosshatchCowl, and #PurlSohoLineWeight. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 1 (2) skein(s) of Purl Soho’s Line Weight, 100% merino. Each skein is 494 yards; approximately 450 (900) yards required. We used the color Heirloom White.
- A US 11 (8 mm), 60-inch circular needle
- A stitch marker
Gauge
25 stitches = 4 inches in stitch pattern (blocked)
Size
Narrow (Wide)
- Finished Width (blocked): 7 (14) inches
- Finished Circumference (blocked): 74 inches (long enough to wrap around twice or three times!)
Sample: The sample pictured here uses approximately 1 1/4 skeins and measures 8 3/4 inches wide.
Pattern
Cast on 464 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Place marker and join for working in the round being careful to not twist the stitches.
Round 1: *K2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains in the round, slip one purlwise, remove marker, replace slipped stitch onto left needle, K2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, replace stitch marker.
Here’s a short video that may clarify the stitch…
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures approximately 7 (14) inches from the cast-on edge.
Continue to work the stitch pattern to bind off. Here’s how…
[K2tog and slip only the first stitch off the left needle] 2 times, pass the first stitch over (just like a normal bind off), *k2tog and slip the first stitch off the left needle, pass the first stitch over, repeat from * until 2 stitches remain (1 stitch on the left needle and 1 stitch on the right needle), knit the last stitch and pass the first stitch over. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitch.
Weave in the ends and block gently.
I have a question. This is the exact stitch I need to use for a shawl I am making for my daughter for her wedding. Bus it possible to use this stitch on straight needles (not in the round). I have been trying but one side goes in instead of being straight because of K2TOG at the beginning. Thanks for any information you could give me!
Hi Jennifer.
Yes! This stitch can be worked flat…
Right Side: *K2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, k1.
Wrong Side: *P2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, p1.
May I ask what thickness yarn you’re working with? When worked densely, an interesting, not untidy edge forms. When worked loosely however, (like here, using fingering weight on nice big needles) the edges become quite a bit messier looking. This is one of the reasons, at this gauge, we decided to make a cowl rather than a wrap or scarf.
Once this project developed into a cowl, I never went back to figure out how to work the selvedge stitches of this pattern when worked flat with thin yarn. If you figure something out I’d love to hear about it!
Thanks for writing in.
Congrats to your daughter!
Laura
Hello!
Not that this reply is nearly a year old, but I do have a simple question: if working flat, so as to make a scarf, do I need to cast-on stitches in multiples of two? Any number?
I’m trading a scarf for an original painting with a coworker, and for some reason logic is alluding me in this conundrum.
Also, I just got my solution of Line Weight in Peacock blue — absolutely exquisite. I might as well be knitting in gold!
Hi Bill,
Thanks for writing in! And thanks for your request!
Here is the pattern for working this stitch flat, rather than in the round. You will have to cast on multiples of two.
Right Side: *K2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, k1.
Wrong Side: *P2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, p1.
When worked densely, an interesting, not untidy edge forms. When worked loosely however, (like here, using fingering weight on nice big needles) the edges become quite a bit messier looking. This is one of the reasons, at this gauge, we decided to make a cowl rather than a wrap or scarf.
Please let us know if you have any questions!
-Adam
It is the sl st purlwise – I am just following the pattern around.
Did I confuse about doing it in a short version? That was just to practice and understand what the stitch looked like if I messed up and needed to pick up. I have co 464 st – wow.
Thanks
Judi
Hi Judi.
It sounds like you’re on your way! That slip stitch purlwise is just to remove and then replace the end-of-round marker.
Thanks for writing us back. Please reach out again if you have any additional questions!
Enjoy the pattern.
Laura
I love this pattern. Thank you.
I am concerned about the edges rolling even after blocking. Will the attached I-cord prevent this?
Hi Mari Ann.
Thank you for writing in. The edges do roll a bit, an attached i-cord would definitely help! Great idea. Let us know how it goes!!
Laura
I just started this pattern and so far it’s going great! But I don’t understand the last paragraph of the instructions. Could you make a video or post photos about how do it please?
Hello Remmy!
What is most confusing for you about the last paragraph? Unfortunately we don’t have a video tutorial planned right now for this pattern. Please let us know what is most confusing and we’d be happy to work with you to clarify! Thanks for writing in! -Alyson
I purchased your line weight yarn this week and want to do this cowl. The needle size on the yarn states US 1-6. However, this pattern calls for US 11 needles. Is size 11 correct?
Loved your store and your service was excellent.
Hi CLH.
That’s so wonderful to hear!
The US 11 is correct. Twice Knitting, the stitch used for this cowl, is incredibly dense, so in order to accomplish a light airy fabric I went up several needle sizes!
Thanks for writing in and please let us know if you have any questions!
Laura
As I can’t touch your Line Weight yarn in person, I’m just wondering if it’s truly soft enough to be worn next to the face, or is it at all itchy? The colors are really beautiful, and I can’t wait to make this, but I’m wondering if it’s soft enough! Thank you!
Hello Michelle!
We stand by the softness of our 100% merino wool yarns! They are often mistaken for cashmere at our NYC shop! I feel confident that even the most picky giftees would approve! Let us know what you think! -Alyson
Hi! Your site is lovely and I love the patterns you guys post. I’ve just learned to knit and am loving it, and in between christmas projects I’ve been searching for the perfect pattern to make for myself. This just might be it! I just have one question though: what is the purpose of the stitch marker? This seems like a pretty straightforward continuous stitch so I’m assuming it’s just there to mark the join for a consistent width. Could I use a safety pin type marker on the bottom to avoid shuffling a marker across every round?
Hello Brianne!
Yes! The marker is simply to remind you of where your round begins and ends. If you prefer to attach something to the body of the cowl while you’re working, feel free!
Thanks for your kind words about our site! Happy knitting! -Alyson
Hello,
I was in the store a few days ago and one of the women working said that this was knit using two strands at a time but in the video, the knitter seems to only be using one strand. Which method was used to knit the model – I love it and am hoping mine will look just like it!
Thank you very kindly for your help!
Kate
Hello Kate!
We do have some Line Weight cowls that use two strands at once, but this one just uses one! We’re so glad that you like our pattern! Happy stitching! -Alyson
Is the shawl in the photo the 7 inch or 14 inch wide? I’d like to know how much yarn I need to get that look. Thanks!
Hello Sarah!
The finished sample we made is 8 3/4 inches wide. Thanks for writing in! -Alyson
I am using Boboli Lace and would like to make the 60″ length. Can you help me figure out how to test my gauge for this yarn on #11 needles…I’m assuming it close to the line weight you used .
And if you could clarify your description of “dense”…my initial effort at this pattern it doesn’t seem so “dense” . Thanks for any help you can offer, kathy
Hi Kathleen.
If you want to make a small swatch, you could work it up flat, rather than in the round!
Cast on about 24 stitches (for a 4-inch wide swatch) and…
Right Side: *K2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, k1.
Wrong Side: *P2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, p1.
As for the density… The Line Weight (or Boboli Lace) on size US 11 needles won’t be dense. The stitch itself, if you don’t work it on larger needles that usually recommended for your yarn, it will result in a very dense fabric. If you worked this stitch with a fingering weight yarn on US 2s or US 3s, it would be dense. Or if you worked it in a worsted weight on US 8s it would be dense. But taking a really thin yarn and going up several needle sizes… that’s what creates this nice airy fabric!
I hope this information helps! Please let us know if you have any questions!
Laura
Thanks so much for your response! I’ll do up the flat swatch and then decide if I’ll knit the cowl flat or be brave enough to cast on the 400+ stitches to work it in the round!!
Sounds like a plan! Happy knitting! -Alyson
I do hope you write up a scarf pattern for us. I want to knit if for my park ranger daughter in the purl soho wool twist….it will be to wear with her uniform. I am not an accomplished knitter so have to depend upon you…thank you, jo
Hi Josephine.
Thanks for writing in! And thanks for your request!
Here is the pattern for working this stitch flat, rather than in the round…
Right Side: *K2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, k1.
Wrong Side: *P2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, p1.
When worked densely, an interesting, not untidy edge forms. When worked loosely however, (like here, using fingering weight on nice big needles) the edges become quite a bit messier looking. This is one of the reasons, at this gauge, we decided to make a cowl rather than a wrap or scarf.
Please let us know if you have any questions!
Thanks!
Laura
STUPID QUESTION! If yo k2tog and drop one stitch until only one stitch remains, how can you p2tog when only one stitch was on the needle to begin with? See? Stupid!
Thanks for your PATIENCE
Hi Debbie,
Thanks for writing in and no, your question is not stupid at all. There is no P2tog in this pattern because it is done in the round. You K2tog until you get to 1 stitch before the marker. When you arrive at this 1 stitch, you will slip it to the left hand needle, remove the marker and replace the slipped stitch back on the right hand needle. Next, K2tog, taking off only the first stitch. Place the marker back on the needle and continue the pattern. The marker will be moving to the left with every round. I hope this helps.
Best,
Adam
Hi! So excited to start this cowl. Love the site and store. One question regarding the long tail cast on, which I understand is the recommendation for this project. I read in the long tail cast-on tutorial that in order to start with a long enough tail, one could estimate one inch per cast-on stitch when calculating how much of a tail to start with. If that’s true, for this cowl I’d start with 38.6 feet of tail (464 inches). Is that right? Thanks so much!
Hello Shelly!
Unfortunately there are no 100% full proof methods of estimating how long your tail should be. I usually wrap the yarn around my needle 10 times and then use that as the estimation for the tail needed for 10 stitches. 1 inch per stitch is definitely a sure bet, but for such thin yarn in this pattern, I don’t expect you would need even quite as much as 232 inches, let alone 464. Let us know how it goes and best of luck with the cowl! -Alyson
If you make a slip knot with either two balls of yarn or two ends of the same ball, then do the Long-tail cast on with those instead, you have an endless supply of yarn for the cast on. Then you remove the initial slip knot. You have two tails to weave in, but it certainly beats the frustration of trying to figure out how long your tail should be!
Hello Mary!
This is a wonderful idea! I’ve never heard of this trick! Thank you so much for sharing! -Alyson
I was just curious as to why there is no video embedded where it says, watch a short video. Was it removed? I thought it was my browser, but I tried on Google Chrome and IE.
Hi Nathan.
Thanks for writing in!
The video is showing up for us on both Firefox and Chrome. I’m so sorry for this frustration. We are going to work on resolving the problem. In the meantime though… Here is a link to the video on YouTube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3RoUZPyBDs
Thanks again for taking the time to write in and alert us to this issue!
Laura
I was wondering what cast on you used to cast on so many stitches? I usually use long tail.
Hello Barb,
Unless we specify otherwise, we usually use Long Tail cast on also! Make sure that you leave an extra long tail for this cast on! Thanks for writing in! -Alyson
I’m just about ready to start knitting after having finally correctly (hopefully) counting and recounting the 464 cast on stitches! I’m new to knitting in the round. The instructions say to “join for working in the round”—is this just a single knit stitch? Or do I start with the “K2 tog dropping only the first stitch…” to join the piece together into the round?
Thanks so much!
I think I’ve figured out the above question now. I’ve also had to cast this project on 4 times, so I can say that you will need a tail of 64 feet to cast on this project! I’m finding Addi Turbo 60″ needles unwieldy—even working at a table the project twists and then often falls off the needle when I try to slip over just one stitch. I’m used to working on bamboo or wood needles; think I’ll switch to 48″ bamboo. If this doesn’t work I’m giving up and going with straight needles!
Hello Michelle!
Great job for getting through that large number of cast on stitches! In order to join, it would be wise to simply begin with the first stitch of the actual pattern as your second idea suggests. “Joining” really just means making sure that all the stitches are oriented in the same way on the needles and that the work isn’t twisted around the cable.
Please don’t hesitate to write in if you need any more advice! Thanks! -Alyson
I love this pattern, but was wondering if you have developed a way or have instructions on how to fix a dropped stitch? The stitch is easy to knit, but not easy to fix!!
Thanks for your help,
Kathy
Hi Kathy.
Sadly I do not have any instructions for you on how to fix a dropped stitch. It is definitely a con in the pro/con list of this stitch pattern! Perhaps someone in our brilliant community will speak up with a solution they’ve found?! If I hear of or learn one, I’ll be sure to post about it.
Thanks for writing in Kathy. I’m sorry to not be of more assistance. Please do write back in if you have any questions. Hopefully next time I’ll have a tried and true solution for you!
Best,
Laura
Hi,
I am wondering how you would fix a mistake. I forgot to leave the second stitch on the needle, so the next k2tog looks a bit off.
Thanks
Hi Viviana.
Great question!
Taking stitches out in this stitch pattern isn’t all that different than taking them out in stockinette. You use the same basic technique. You can slip the tip of your left needle just below the last stitch on the right needle into the stitch you just worked, from front to back and lightly pull the working yarn to undo that last stitch. Just remember you’ll be picking up two stitches instead of one (imagine taking out a k2tog). You may want to go back a couple of stitches just to get the hang of un-knitting this fabric. It looks a bit messy at first, since one of the two stitches will be stretching between the left and right needles having already been worked once.
I hope this helps! Please don’t hesitate to write us back with any questions!
Laura
Hello! I love this pattern. I just started and am at about 5 inches. I have one small concern. I’m getting a lot of curling where I casted on I’m going to block when I finish. I’m not sure how to do the blocking to get the curl out. Can anyone help me out?
Hi Kelsey.
The fabric will always curl under a little bit, even after blocking, but once blocked a lot of the curl should come out of it.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
hello! ive finished this pattern. Ive followed the pattern and my stitches werent tight. After blocking it stayed flat until worn and is now practically a tube. Was it because of the yarn or a matter of the pattern. I will be undoing the scarf but am hoping to try it again and open to suggestions on how to get it not to curl.
Hi, Kelsey!
Thank you so much for writing in! I am so sorry that your cowl turned into a tube! It should have stayed flat with a bit of curling after blocking. Did you use the Line Weight yarn or something else? If you used another wool, that might have caused the excess curling. If you have further questions, please let us know!
Best,
Kumeko
Have just finished the pattern. Love it. But am confused on the bind off. Can you explain it easier for a beginner. Thanks
Hi Karla.
Thanks for writing in. I’d love to help you out with the bind off. Here’s what you do…
K2tog and slip only the first stitch off the left needle. Do the same thing once more, k2tog and slip only the first stitch off the left needle. Then, use the tip of the left needle to pick up the first stitch and pass it over the second stitch and off of the right needle. You’ve just bound off one stitch! Then you’re going to start the steps which you’ll repeat until two stitches remain… *k2tog and slip just the first stitch off the left needle, bind off one stitch like before by picking up and passing that first stitch on the right needle over the second stitch and off of the needle, then repeat from the * until there are only 2 stitches remaining (1 stitch on the left needle and 1 stitch on the right needle). Then, knit the last stitch and bind off one. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitch.
I do hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any questions.
Thanks.
Laura
Hi,
I was wondering if there was a way for me to fix a dropped stitch in the previous row? Any help would be appreciated. I could send pic if that helps?
Thanks, Roya
Hello Roya!
As I’m sure you’ve noticed, with an intricate stitch pattern such as this, its incredibly hard to fix your mistakes after the fact. You’re welcome to send over a photo to Customerservice AT purlsoho DOT com. Best of luck! -Alyson
I saw another comment about this, but I dropped a stitch and need help or instructions for how to fix this. Has anyone found a solution?
Hello, Caryn!
Sadly, we do not at this time have any instructions for you on how to fix a dropped stitch. It is definitely a con in the pro/con list of this stitch pattern! Once we learn how to fix a dropped stitch for this pattern, we will definately let you know!
Again, I am sorry we can’t be of more help to you!
Best wishes and happy knitting,
Kumeko
Hi. I am about to start knitting this beautiful cowl and coming to terms to with the instructions. I am clear on most things… but I am uncertain about “block”. I usually follow instructions from Australian patterns some terms are unfamiliar.
Do you have any directions/explanations about “block” please.
Thank you
Julie
Hello Julie!
Here is our tutorial on blocking: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2006/11/13/blocking/
It basically means washing the garment in a gentle way to stretch it into place. Best of luck! Thanks! -Alyson
Just as an FYI, if you search Youtube for twice knitting instructions, there is a video that shows you how to cast on and bind off for this stitch. You start with 2 stitches when casting on, put the needle through both stitches and the knit stitch is then added onto the left needle. You continue to put the right handed needle through the last 2 stitches of the left needle to add on each additional stitch. You bind off in a similar way, knitting through 2 stitches at a time.
I’m having a hard time doing the stitch on the first row (just after casting on). I guess my cast on might be too tight (I’m a beginner) but I was wondering if I could knit the first round and then do the crosshatch stitch for the rest and will it look OK?
Hi, Susan!
Thank you so much for writing in! I think you are correct, your cast on may have been too tight! You could certainly knit the first round and then crosshatch the rest. I don’t think that knitting the first round will detract from the beauty of your cowl. You could even finish the cowl with a knit round so that both edges match. If you have further questions, please let us know!
Happy knitting,
Kumeko
I’m excited to start this pattern! I am wondering what cast on you used?
Hi, Stacey!
Thank you so much for your question! Unless we specify otherwise, we usually use Long Tail cast on. Make sure that you leave an extra long tail for this cast on! Again, thanks for writing in!
Happy knitting,
Kumeko
I generally use a long tail cast on but am not sure if it will look good with this pattern. So was just wondering if you have a preference.
Hi, Stacey!
Thank you for your question! Unless we specify otherwise, we usually use Long Tail cast on also! Just make sure that you leave an extra long tail for this cast on! Again, thank you for your question!
Happy knitting,
Kumeko
Managed to cast on all the stitches, but my yarn is getting bunched up when trying to make sure it’s not twisted before I join it. Any tips on this???
Thanks in advance!
Hello, Beth!
Thank you very much for writing in! Joining in the round with 400+ stitches is no easy feat, so I commend you for even trying! Another commenter had success in casting on the stitches then working a row flat before joining in the round. If you try this the first row will be a wrong side row so, use the same technique as described in the pattern, but purlwise, so p2tog rather than k2tog. If you have further questions, please let us know!
Happy knitting,
Kumeko
Hello and thank you for the lovely free pattern! I’m having some trouble. I’m on my third start. I cannot keep the needles from twisting with the 464 stitches as I’m joining in the round. Any suggestions? Also, this is my 3rd cast on, and I’m embarrassed to say I only had enough yarn in the tail to cast on 364 stitches, which is 100 short. I don’t know if I have the heart to rip out again and start over. Will it still work with 364 stitches? Thanks so much,
Jana
Hello, Jana!
Thank you so much for writing in! I am so sorry for the delayed response! Joining in the round with 400+ stitches is no easy feat, so I commend you for even trying! Another commenter had success in casting on the stitches then working a row flat before joining in the round. If you try this the first row will be a wrong side row so, use the same technique as described in the pattern, but purlwise, so p2tog rather than k2tog. Does that make sense?
This pattern will work with any number of cast on stitches, so your 364 stitches is totally okay!
If you have further questions please let us know! Best of luck!
Happy knitting,
Kumeko
I’m almost done knitting this pattern with 2 skeins of yarn, and it’s only measuring 3.5 inch wide. Will blocking it cause it to stretch to the 7in width? I checked my gauge when I started and it seems ok. Help! Do I need to go get a third skein?
Thx,
Stacy
Hi, Stacy!
Thank you for writing in! When you checked your gauge did you make and block a gauge swatch? I ask because our gauge is of the stitch pattern blocked, so if you measured your gauge on an unblocked swatch you may not be getting the correct gauge. If you want your cowl wider I recommend getting a third skein because even with blocking you won’t get the 7-inch width. If you have further questions, please let us know!
Best,
Kumeko
Hi,
I am almost finished with my second skein, and my cowl is only measuring 3 inches across. Will blocking stretch it out to the 7 inches? I only bought 2 skeins per the pattern, and now I’m wondering what I did wrong. The gauge was right when I checked it in the beginning.
Thx,
Stacy
Hi Stacy,
Thanks for writing in and my apologies for the delayed response! That is perplexing indeed. Are you using Line Weight for the cowl? If not, what yarn are you using? Can you also let me know what the current circumference is?
Our version was blocked gently and did not grow significantly.
I look forward to hearing from you!
Cassy
This is a gorgeous scarf! I finished one during the holidays as part of a gift exchange. It’s simple and elegant; my friend was ecstatic.
My only weird issue was that when I was done blocking, my scarf measured 112″ in the round instead of 74″! And I certainly counted my stitches several times, so I know that I was following the pattern… (Had good needles, even(?) tension, everything seemed okay.)
In any case, it was wrappable around 3-4 times instead, and thus still fine, but is there any common reason why that would happen…? I’m making two other scarves of the same as gifts, and I’m wondering what could be the cause!
Hi, Stephanie!
Thank you very much for writing in! Sorry about the delayed response! Did you do a gauge swatch before starting the cowl? It is possible that your gauge may be different from ours even though you used the same yarn and needle size. I recommend doing a swatch next time and if you’re gauge is different from the gauge in the pattern you can adjust needle size.
If you did do a swatch the issue may have arisen during blocking. Did you fully submerge the cowl in water? If so, it may have stretched when you removed it from the water. I recommend following our hand blocking technique (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2006/11/13/blocking/) for this cowl.
Please let us know if you have further questions. Again, thank you for your comment!
Happy knitting,
Kumeko
Is the picture showing the 7 inch or the 14 inch cowl?
Hi Pamela,
The sample shown here is 8 3/4 inches wide.
Thanks for writing in.
Best,
Laura
Hi,
May you recommend how to block this cowl? Thank you for the beautiful pattern!
Hi, Sue!
Thank you so much for your kind words! We recommend blocking in this fashion: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2006/11/13/blocking/. If you have further questions, please let us know! Again, thank you for writing in!
Happy knitting,
Kumeko
Hi,
Do you have some advice on how to handle such a long cable?
It does feel overwhelming to deal with, at least at first.
Thank you,
Eva
Hello, Eva!
Thank you so much for writing in! Sorry for the delayed response! The cable does feel overwhelming at first, but it does become more manageable once you’re further along in the project. I recommend taking your time and being patient! Please keep us updated on your cowl!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
If you are like me, a tight knitter, you will have to ease up quite a bit to do this pattern!! I had to keep reminding myself to loosen my tension. Lovely pattern, thank you.
Hi there,
I noticed an earlier comment asked if this could be done on a 40″ cord (which comes with the bamboo addi clicks), and you replied it probably could. I’m just wondering if, many months later, you’ve had any more feedback on whether or not this works?
Many thanks,
Sam
Hi Sam,
We have not yet heard back from anyone who has knit the cowl on a 40 inch needle. The stitches would be squished up on the shorter cable but it is accomplish-able.
Best,
Cassy
Hello,
I’m Roberta from Rome, Italy. I’ve just finished two cowls with this pattern. I wanted to thank you for sharing this lovely pattern and stitch which I didn’t know. I used a different yarn in natural wool. The finished work looked a little curly at the edges and I was wondering if the type of yarn may affect the work. I wanted to know if you deliver orders in Italy, anyway, because your yarns seem wonderful. Thanks again!
Hi Roberta,
We are so glad that the Crosshatch Cowl inspired you! To mitigate curling on the edges, we recommend blocking the finished cowl. The fabric will always curl under a little bit, even after blocking, but once blocked a lot of the curl should come out of it.
I am also happy to let you know that we do ship internationally!
Best,
Cassy
Hello, I am making this scarf with your Line Weight yarn and I was wondering if it’s common for the knitting to get quite fuzzy. I don’t normally use wool since I’m allergic, but I’m making the scarf as a gift and I wanted to use the yarn you suggest. Thank you for your help!
Hi Kelly,
Thanks for writing in! The Line Weight does bloom when knit at this gauge and in this pattern. We think that it makes for quite a luxurious fabric.
Happy knitting!
Cassy
I cast on the required number of stitches. When I joined in the round but it was very difficult to make sure no stitches were twisted.
Is there a way as I knit to tell ?? I am on my second round. I really do not want to have to rip out as this has been a tough task.
On the other hand ??? I like the patter and want it to look nice.
Hi, Gail!
Thank you for writing in! First, congrats on casting on ALL those stitches and joining in the round, that was no easy feat! It’s very difficult to tell if you have twisted your stitches when working with such a large number of stitches. With this high number of stitches you may not know until you’ve knit several rows. If you’ve twisted stitches your knitting will have a twist rather than being a flat and smooth. Try laying your work down on a table and seeing if all the stitches are facing the same way without a twist.
If you have further questions, please let us know!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Hi! I’m knitting this cowl with a fingering weight merino yarn quite similar to yours. After ten rows, the work is curling a lot so I was wondering to what extent this will disappear after blocking. I’ve read a few internet posts saying that curling comes back after blocking and I am quite concerned about it. Does this sticht behave like stockinette in this respect? Thank you.
Hi, Eva!
Thank you for writing in! This stitch does produce some curling at the edge, however much of that will be taken care of once you block your cowl. The fabric will curl under a little bit after blocking (similar to stockinette stitch). If you have further questions please let us know and please keep us updated on your cowl!
Best,
Kumeko
This is absolutely stunning! Love the colour and texture.
Do you sell any premade? Thanks, ACM
Hello Caroline,
Thank you so much for your comment. At this time we do not sell finished crosshatch cowls. We do have some beautiful finished items in the Purl Soho Goods section of our website. Thank you for your interest.
All the best,
Allison
What’s the difference between this and the herringbone stitch? It does the same thing but looks very different, and I’m not sure how that works. Is it just that this is worked in the round that makes it look different?
Hi Blackbird,
Good eye! The crosshatch and the herringbone stitch are similar. For the herringbone stitch, you change direction of the stitch every row. For the crosshatch stitch, the direction of the stitch is the same in each row. Both our Crosshatch Cowl and Herringbone Cowl are worked in the round, so the difference in look comes from the alternating direction of the stitches.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I love your crosshatch pattern. After reading some of the comments a few had difficulty untwisting the stitches. The best way to make sure the stitches are not twisted is use a life line as you cast on. Pulling gently at both ends of the lifeline until the thread is taunt all the stitches should line up. You may need an extra pair of hands to help you with this process. I tie a loop at one end of the lifeline for easy holding as the helper may get tired or use a teacup hook . I use top stitching thread for fine yarn or small satin cording for thicker yarn. Hope this is helpful.
Hi, Alex!
Thank you for writing in! I am certain that many of our readers will find this quite useful!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Hi!
I’m wanting to do this pattern except as a flat scarf not a cowl
You mentioned that when it’s done on bigger needles (like the ones you use) it’s messier, how can I get around this? Can i use a thicker yarn? or use smaller needles and simply cast on more stitches?
I’m super new to knitting so I’m trying to figure this all out haha
Thanks!
Hi Ally,
You have it absolutely correct! To make a neater edge when knitting flat, you can use thicker yarn OR smaller needles. I would recommend knitting a small swatch first to determine the type of fabric that will work best for you with the yarn and needles that you would like to use. To do so, cast on about 24 stitches and knit in pattern for a few inches. You can then see if the yarn and needle combination works for you of if you will need to change the needle size to make a more pleasing fabric.
Happy knitting!
Cassy
I’d love to try this pattern — knitted flat, probably — in a worsted weight, since I have more of that yarn in my stash than line weight. If you recommend using US 11 needles for the line weight, what would you recommend for the worsted? Thanks so much!
Hello Kelly,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately we do not currently have the resources to customize patterns, but I can lead you in the right direction. I would suggest you try a swatch with the worsted on a US 15, 17 and 19. Depending on your personal tension, one of these sizes should work. Good luck!
Best,
Adam
Can I use worsted twist yarn?
Hi Roberta,
Thanks for writing in. You could use worsted weight yarn, but you would have to use much larger needles and a different cast on amount. Good luck with your knitting!
Best,
Adam
Hi,
I have just finished my cowl just to find out that it has an twist. I think it has to do with the untamable cable I used. Do you have an idea about how to untwist it?
Thank you,
Eva
Hi Eva,
Thanks for writing us. I’m sorry about the twist in your cowl. Unfortunately, there is nothing you can do to untwist it. This problem arises from twisting your stitches at the very beginning when joining in the round. However, both sides of this cowl look textural and I don’t think there is a “wrong side”, so I say you should rock it with the twist.
Best,
Adam
Would this work with your new linen quill yarn?
Hi Emily!
Yes, the Linen Quill would be great with this stitch. I think it would add a lot of texture and intrigue. I hope you tackle this project!
-Adam
Hello,
Thank you so much for this beautiful pattern! I am planning on knitting it in a DK weight yarn (Jade Sapphire 4 ply). What needle size would you suggest using? I am also planning on making the cowl a little shorter, do the number of stitches cast on have to be a multiple of anything, or will any even number of stitches be ok?
Thank you so much for your time and help!
Alexa
Hi Alexa,
Thank you for your kind words! This cowl will be stellar in Jade Sapphire 4 ply. What a great idea! You might be able to get away with knitting this on a US 11, but I’d also do a swatch on a US 13 just to be sure. The cowl is worked over an even number of stitches, so you can reduce the cast on amount as you see fit. Good luck and let us know how it turns out!
-Adam
I just got your yarn for the crosshatch cowl. I’m Alitalia confused on the purl row. If you only have 1 stitch left how can you drop one and continue like in row 1. I have vied the video many times.The other question I have is is there an easier was to make sure that these stitches are not twisted when joined? It’s a lot of stitches.
Thanks.
Lois Geisler
Hi Lois,
Thank you for your questions! Firstly, for the easy question, you can make sure you aren’t twisting your stitches by laying down your circular needle on a flat surface before joining. You’ll want to orient all the cast on bottom edge stitches toward the center so they are all facing each other. After doing this you’ll gently pick up your circular needle and join in the round.
As for the directions at the end of round, you will constantly be shifting your end of round marker over to the left as you knit. This is done by following the pattern until one stitch before the end of round marker. When you get to this stitch you will slip it to the right-hand needle and remove the marker. Next you will k2tog, dropping only the first stitch off the needle and then replace the marker. I hope this clears the directions up a bit. Let me know if you have any other questions!
-Adam