Gathered Skirt for All Ages
Have you heard of that sociological exercise where everyone’s asked to sketch his or her idea of a simple chair, and everyone’s idea is totally different? In a variation of that experiment, at a recent Purl Bee meeting we each imagined the quintessential summer garment, but in this case, when we revealed our thoughts, it turned out we were all picturing the exact same thing: an elastic-waist, above-the-knee skirt with big side pockets, aka this Gathered Skirt!
This Skirt’s simple elastic waistband makes it easy to pull on and comfortable to wear, while its deep inset pockets are a useful (and stylish!) detail. And, because I knew we’d all be clamoring to make a few, I designed three pocket variations (Contrast, Cross-Cut, and Bias-Cut), picked a handful of favorite fabrics and wrote up instructions for eleven (!) sizes from kids to adults… exactly how we imagined it! -Corinne
Update: New Fabric
May 2, 2016
We’ve made this quintessential skirt in Purl Soho’s exquisite new Mineral Linen! Check out our Gathered Skirt for All Ages in Mineral Linen post to see this simple summer skirt in one of our most unique fabrics!
Materials
Fabric Requirements
You will also need . . .
- 3/4-inch Braided Elastic, White
- 1 yard for Kids
- 1 (1, 1, 1, 2) yards for Women
- A 274-yard spool of 100% cotton thread to match the fabric
- A safety pin
For the Skirt with Contrast Pockets we used . . .
- Main Fabric: Kiyohara’s Fine Solids in Light Beige
- Contrast Fabric: Kiyohara’s Kokochi Double Gauze in Pink
- Gutermann’s 100% Cotton thread in color 1040
For the Skirt with Cross-Cut Pockets we used . . .
- Main Fabric: Robert Kaufman’s Oxford in Small Black Stripe
- Gutermann’s 100% Cotton thread in color 1006
For the Skirt with Bias-Cut Pockets we used . . .
- Main Fabric: Kiyohara’s Large Gingham in Grey
- Gutermann’s 100% Cotton thread in color 1040
Recommended tools . . .
- A quilting ruler
- A rotary cutter
- A self-healing cutting mat
Sizes
Kids
To fit ages 2-3 (4-5, 6-7, 8-9, 10-11, 12) with finished waist sizes 18 ½ (19 ½, 20 ½, 21 ½, 22 ½, 24) inches in circumference, unstretched. (Instructions are given for adjusting this waist size.)
Women
To fit hip sizes 33-34 (35-37, 38-40, 41-43, 44-46) with finished waist sizes 25 ½ (28 ½, 31 ½, 35 ½, 40 ½) inches in circumference, unstretched. (Instructions are given for adjusting this waist size.)
Note
Prewash all fabric before starting.
Pattern
Cut
Main Panels, Side Panels and Waistband
Use the measurements in the charts below to cut the pieces for the Main Panels, Side Panels and Waistband from the Main Fabric.
The shorter sides of the Main Panel pieces and the longer sides of the Side Panel pieces should run parallel to the selvage edge.
Pockets
Use the measurements in the chart below to cut 2 Pocket pieces. The style of Skirt you are making determines how exactly to cut the Pocket rectangles. Specific instructions for each style of Skirt are listed below the chart.
Contrast Pockets
Cut the Pockets from the Contrast Fabric. The long side of the rectangles should run parallel to the selvage edge.
Bias-Cut Pockets
Cut the Pockets from the Main Fabric. The long side of the rectangles should run at a 45-degree angle to the selvage edge.
Cross-Cut Pockets
Cut the Pockets from the Main Fabric. The long side of the rectangles should run perpendicular to the selvage edge.
Elastic
For the most accurate fit, measure the circumference of the true waist (or where you would like the Skirt waist to fit) and add ½ inch. Cut the elastic to this length.
If you are making this Skirt for someone who is not available for measuring, you can use these lengths as a guide . . .
For Kids, cut the elastic to 19 (20, 21, 22, 23, 24 ¼) inches.
For Women, cut the elastic to 26 (29, 32, 36, 41) inches.
Piece the Waistband
For Women’s Hip Sizes 41-43 and 44-46 inches in 44-inch Fabrics Only
Stack the two Waistband pieces with right sides together matching up the raw edges on two short sides. Pin the pieces together along this short side. Sew along the pinned edge with a ½-inch seam allowance.
Open the Waistband and press the seam to one side. Sew it down with an edgestitch.
Prepare the Waistband
All Sizes
Fold one long raw edge of the Waistband piece ½ inch towards the wrong side and press.
Repeat with the other long raw edge.
Now, fold the Waistband piece in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, so that the two long folds meet and the raw edges are encased in the fold. Press the fold.
Open up the folds at the two short ends. With right sides together, stack the ends together, matching up their raw edges. Pin in place. Sew along the short edge with a ½-inch seam allowance.
Press the seam to one side and sew it down with an edgestitch.
Refold the Waistband and press if needed.
Mark the Center Points
Note: The fabrics that we used in this project are non-directional and have no clear top or bottom. If you are using a directional fabric, please take this into account when you make your markings.
Main and Side Panels
Fold one Main Panel piece in half so that its two short sides meet. Use a fabric marker or pencil to mark the center point along one raw edge. This is now the Top of the Main Panel.
Repeat with the other Main Panel piece.
These marks will represent the Center Front and Center Back of the Skirt.
Now, fold one Side Panel in half so that its two long sides meet. Use a fabric marker or pencil to mark the center point along one raw edge. This is now the Top of the Side Panel.
Repeat with the other Side Panel piece.
These marks will represent the Center points of the Skirt sides.
Waistband
For Women’s Hip Sizes 41- 43 and 44-46 inches in 44-inch Fabrics Only
Your Waistband has two seams, which will align with the two Center points of the Skirt sides. Here’s how to find the Front and Back Center points of the Waistband…
Fold the Waistband loop so that the two seams are stacked on top of each other.
The two resulting folds represent the Center Front and Center Back. To mark these points, open up the pressed folds of the Waistband and use a pencil or fabric marker to mark one raw edge. Make sure that you mark the same raw edge at both the Front and Back Center points.
For All Other Sizes
Your Waistband has one seam, this seam marks the Center Back.
Fold the Waistband loop at the seam. The other fold that results represents the Center Front.
At the Center Front, open up the pressed folds of the Waistband and use a pencil or fabric marker to mark one raw edge.
Now, lay the Waistband loop flat so that the Center Back and Center Front points are stacked on top of each other. The two resulting folds represent the Center points of the Skirt sides. Mark these points as described above. Make sure that you mark the same raw edge as you marked for the Center Front.
Piece the Side Panels and Pockets
With right sides together, stack one Pocket piece on top of one Side Panel piece, lining up one short raw edge of the Pocket with the bottom edge of the Side Panel. Pin along this edge. Sew along the pinned edge with a ½-inch seam allowance.
Press the seam toward the Side Panel. Sew the seam allowance to the Side Panel with an edgestitch.
Fold the two pieces along the joining seam so that the wrong sides are facing. Press to create a sharp crease. This is now the Pocket Panel. Orient it as it is in the above photo, with the top edge of the Side Panel at the bottom and the seam at the top.
Fold the Side Panel piece up so that its right sides are together and its top edge is now above the Pocket piece. Adjust the placement of this fold so that the long side of the Pocket Panel is equal in length to the short side of one Main Panel.
Press this fold to create a sharp crease.
Repeat with the other Side Panel and Pocket pieces.
Here’s a short video that may clarify this step…
Piece the Pocket and Main Panels
With right sides together and top edges at the top, stack one Pocket Panel on top of one Main Panel, lining up the raw edge of one short side of the Main Panel with the raw edge of one long side of the Pocket Panel. Pin along this edge. Sew along the pinned edge with a ½- inch seam allowance.
Sew along the raw edge of the seam allowance with a zigzag stitch and press the seam toward the Main Panel. Sew the seam allowance to the Main Panel with an edgestitch.
Repeat with the other Pocket Panel on the other short side of the Main Panel.
Now, sew the other long sides of the Pocket Panels to the two short sides of the remaining Main Panel in the same manner.
You have one long loop of fabric, which is now the Skirt.
Hem the Skirt
Fold the bottom edge of the skirt ½ inch towards the wrong side and press.
Now, fold the bottom edge in toward the wrong side again, 1 inch for Kids or 2 inches for Women. Press and pin.
Sew the hem down with an edgestitch.
Baste the Top Edge
Note: If you are working with the Oxford Stripe fabric, I recommend sewing along the top raw edge of the Skirt with a zigzag stitch before you begin this section. This fabric frays easily, and the pulled threads can get in the way as you work.
Sew a series of basting stitches 1/8 inch from the top edge. Start and stop the basting stitches at each seam line (the ones that joined the Panels) and leave a 3 or 4-inch tail of thread at each end.
Now, sew another series of basting stitches ¼ inch below the first in the same manner.
Gather the Skirt Top
Tie the thread tails together at one end of each pair of basting stitches. First tie the two top threads together and then the two bobbin threads. Trim the threads about ½ inch from the knots. Leave the threads at the other end of the stitch lines loose.
Working one section at a time, pull the loose (unknotted) top threads to gather the fabric. Pull gently so that the thread does not break.
Gather the Side Panels so that they measure 3 (3, 3, 3, 3 1/2, 3 1/2) inches across the top edge from seam to seam, for Kids, and 4 (4, 4, 4 1/2, 4 1/2) inches across the top edge, from seam to seam, for Women. Knot the threads again, as described above, and space the gathers evenly.
Next, gather the Main Panels so that they measure 9 (10, 11, 12, 12 1/4, 12 3/4) inches across the top edge for Kids, and 13 3/4 (14 3/4, 16 1/4, 17 3/4, 19) inches across the top edge for Women. Tie knots in the top and bobbin threads, as described above. Space the gathers evenly.
Attach the Waistband
Turn the Skirt inside out.
Open up the fold of the Waistband that you marked with the Front, Back and Side Center points. With the right side of the Waistband facing the wrong side of the Skirt, line up the top raw edge of the Skirt with the raw edge of the Waistband. Match up the Center Front, Center Back and Side points of the Skirt and Waistband and pin together along the raw edge.
Sew along the pinned edge with a ½-inch seam allowance, using the crease in the Waistband as a guide.
Now, turn the Skirt so that its right side is facing out. Fold the Waistband over the Skirt’s raw waist edge and pin in place.
Edgestitch along the bottom of the Waistband’s bottom fold, leaving a 1 ½-inch gap.
Attach a safety pin to one end of the Elastic. Insert this end into the gap. Pull the pin through the Waistband, exiting out the other side, Make sure not to pull the Elastic’s other end into the channel.
Checking that the Elastic isn’t twisted, overlap the two ends by ½ inch. Sew the two ends together widthwise with a zigzag stitch.
Tuck the elastic into the Waistband and close the gap with an edgestitch.
At the approximate center point of one side, make a ¾ inch long vertical seam through all layers of the Waistband. Sew the seam forward, then backstitch over the seam, and sew forward again.
Repeat at the approximate center points of the other side, front and back.
These seams will prevent the Elastic from twisting as the Skirt is worn.
Pull out any basting stitches that show below the Waistband edge and you’re done!
Thank you for sharing such a lovely skirt. I can’t wait to try making one for my little girls.
Do you have the measurements for a plus size version of this skirt? I want to have this skirt made and the bulk of wha she is charging me is for converting, sizing the skirt. Also what would you say is a good price for having someone make this skirt in terms of labor? She charges by the hour and I am wondering how many hours would be a reasonable price.
Hi Natasha –
Thank you for writing in! This is a great question.
To size the Skirt up, I recommend using the size to fit a 44-46-inch hip measurement as a base, and these general rules for sizing as a guide . . .
1. The length of the Main Panel piece (this is the shorter side of the Panel) should be the desired length of the skirt, plus 2 1/2 inches for a hem.
2. The Width of the Main Panel piece (this is the longer side of the Panel) should be about 4 inches smaller than your hip circumference.
3. To figure the width of the Pocket and Side Panel pieces (this is the shorter side of the pieces), keep this in mind: the circumference of the pieced Skirt “loop” (Main Panel + Side Panel + Main Panel + Side Panel) should be roughly double your hip circumference. The widths of the Side Panel and Pocket pieces should be equal to each other.
4. To figure the length of the Pocket piece (this is the longer side of the piece), subtract the original Main Panel length from your new length (x – 25 1/2 = y). Then, add this number to the long side of the pocket (y + 18 1/2 = z).
5. You should not make any changes to the length of the Side Panel piece.
6. Cut the Waistband piece so that it is roughly 2 1/2 inches longer than your hip circumference.
As for pricing from your tailor, this varies greatly from city to city and from person to person depending on experience. I do not think I would be able to tell you what is fair or not. My only suggestion would be to search out a few options in your area to compare prices and quality.
I hope this helps!
-Corinne
thank you for explaining how to make plus sized tweaks to the pattern.
Hello, I’m not quite understanding how Step 3 works. Could you perhaps explain in more detail how you get the Side panel width?
Hi Brittany,
Thanks for reaching out! I would suggest keeping the side and pocket panels the same width as the largest size, or 9 inches, and adjusting the width of your main panels so that the total circumference of the skirt is about twice your hip measurement.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
simply amazing. you’ve done it again with the perfect project and well-written tutorial! thanks so much:)
This is so cute, looking forward to making it!
Can you send it in PDF FORM?
Hi Francine –
Thanks for writing in!
You can actually make a PDF of the pattern right on the site. If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments. This link allows you to print the project, or save it as a PDF.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials.
I hope this helps!
-Corinne
After reading through the directions a few times, I am still unclear how the pocket is formed. Will it become clear when I cut fabric and place them as directed?
Hi Deedee –
This is a great question. Writing out this section of the pattern was a little tricky to explain in words, but fortunately it is not difficult to do. I think once you have the fabric pieces in front of you it will all become clear, but if it doesn’t, we are here for you and you can always write in for help along the way!
When reading through now, it might be helpful to keep in mind that the Pocket Panel (the piece you make by sewing the Pocket piece and Side Panel together) is about 12- 18 inches longer than the side of the Main Panel you will be sewing it to. The folds you make in the Pocket Panel equalize these lengths. These folds form the finished Pocket.
Please let us know if you have any other questions along the way!
-Corinne
I made one skirt and the pocket still stumped me so I I,improvised. I am making another today and I think I got it. The seam attaching the pocket to the panel becomes the upper edge of the pocket and when you fold the fabric, the depth of the pocket is not the full depth of the panel. Am I right?
Hi Deedee –
Yes! You’ve got it! And so well described. Thanks for writing in with this great explanation.
-Corinne
Thank you for this! Your comment saved me! I could not figure it out till I read this.
Deedee, you are a skirtsaver :). I think I would not have figured it out without your explanation. Thanks a lot :). And thank you, Corinne, for instructions. I am making the skirt for my 4-old niece. If it works out, I am gonna make one for myself. Greetings from the Czech Republic 🙂
Thank you for this comment, it really helped me too! Here is a visual using a directional fabric for the pocket. Hopefully it will help others.
http://imgur.com/5T6CfD3
Love these have more
This is adorable and looks v. comfy. Would you say this is doable for a complete beginner? Thanks.
Hi Jennifer –
This is a great question!
The main construction of the Skirt is very simple, but sewing the gathers and Waistband can be a little tricky for beginners. I recommend starting with a project like our Liberty Backpacks (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/07/21/corinnes-thread-liberty-backpacks/), Kids Gathered Summer Top (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2014/06/13/corinnes-thread-kids-gathered-summer-top/), or Embroidered Jumper (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/06/13/mollys-sketchbook-embroidered-cotton-jumper/) which teach some of these skills on a smaller scale, and then move on to this project.
Alternatively, you could also use scrap fabric to make a test skirt first in the smallest size to practice the skills and construction before you make the final.
I hope this helps!
-Corinne
so there’s no ‘actual’ pattern to download? there’s just the measurements in the tutorial? i’m driving myself nuts here lol!
thanks~
Hi Regina –
You are correct! There are no pattern pieces to print out for this project. The Skirt is constructed entirely of rectangles, the measurements for which are all listed on the charts.
Please let us know if you have any other questions as you are working on the project!
-Corinne
I would love this in a “maxi” length.
Can you suggest how to modify for longer length?
Thank you !
Hi Bonnie –
This is a great question! The Skirt can easily be adapted to a “maxi” length.
The short side of the Main Panel is the length of the Skirt. To make this longer, first measure from your waist to where you would like the Skirt to fall. Add 1 1/2 inch to this number for a hem on Kids’ sizes or 2 1/2 inches for a hem on Women’s sizes. This is the new length for your Main Panel pieces.
For example, if I wanted to add length to the size to fit a 35-37 -inch hip measurement, I would measure from my waist down (36 inches), add 2 1/2 inches (38 1/2 inches) and cut my two Main Panel pieces to 34 x 38 1/2 inches. The long side of the pieces in the maxi length will run along the length of the Skirt.
You will also need to adjust the length on the Pocket piece. To get this measurement, subtract the original Main Panel length from the new, maxi length. Then, add this number to the long side of the pocket. So, in my example, I would subtract 22 1/2 from 38 1/2 (16 inches) and then add this number to the long side of the Pocket piece (16 + 16 = 32 inches). The Pocket piece for my maxi length would be cut to 8 x 32 inches.
I hope this helps!
Please let me know if you have any other questions as you work on this project.
-Corinne
I LOVE THAT DESIGNED SKIRT, HOWEVER ADULT SKIRT IS TOO SHORT FOR ME AS I RATHER LONG LENGTH OVER KNEE AND POCKET HAVE TO BE REMAIN UNCHANGED PLACE. HOW CAN I DO THAT?
AGAIN I LOVE YOUR DESIGNED SKIRT!
Hi Wanda –
This is a great question! The Skirt length can easily be adjusted.
The short side of the Main Panel is the length of the Skirt. To make this longer, first measure from your waist to where you would like the Skirt to fall. Add 1 1/2 inch to this number for a hem on Kids’ sizes or 2 1/2 inches for a hem on Women’s sizes. This is the new length for your Main Panel pieces.
For example, if I wanted to add length to the size to fit a 35-37 -inch hip measurement, I would measure from my waist down to where I wanted the skirt to fall (let’s say, 36 inches), add 2 1/2 inches (38 1/2 inches) and cut my two Main Panel pieces to 34 x 38 1/2 inches. The long side of the Main Panel pieces in this longer length will run along the length of the Skirt.
You will also need to adjust the length on the Pocket piece. To get this measurement, subtract the original Main Panel length from the new, longer length. Then, add this number to the long side of the pocket. So, in my example, I would subtract 22 1/2 from 38 1/2 (16 inches) and then add this number to the long side of the Pocket piece (16 + 16 = 32 inches). The Pocket piece for my longer length Skirt would be cut to 8 x 32 inches.
I hope this helps!
Please let me know if you have any other questions as you work on this project.
-Corinne
Thank you! Just what I was looking for, for this summer! You are sure enabling me with lots if projects this summer.
I absolutely love this! I can see myself wearing it in my sunny country. tks for a beautiful pattern! 🙂
Hi Corinne,
Do you have the size chart and the fabric requirements in “cm” and not in “inch”?
I’m Belgian, it’s could be easier with the cm conversion.
Many thanks
Vanessa
Hi Vanessa –
Thank you for writing in. This is a great question!
Unfortunately we do not have these measurements available in centimeters. Luckily, there are many online conversion sites that can do this work for you!
Please let us know if you have any other questions while you are working this project.
Thanks!
-Corinne
Thank you! Can’t wait to make some.
Hello Corinne,
Would it be possible to have the pattern in centimeters please.
Thank you so much.
Joelle.
Hi Joelle –
Thank you for writing in. This is a great question!
Unfortunately we do not have these measurements available in centimeters. Luckily, there are many online conversion sites that can do this work for you!
Please let us know if you have any other questions while you are working this project.
Thanks!
-Corinne
I have the same problem! Im Brazilian and I will have to convert everything to cms. Not sure will work well. I love the project and it will be teh first time I ever sow…. I have my mom´s help, though.
Hi Cristina –
I hope that the conversions go well for you! I just wrote detailed instructions about the different charts to Tiffany in the comments below. Please take a look to see if it helps as you work all the numbers out!
Best,
Corinne
Thank you so much, Corinne.
I have just converted all the measurements into cms, I cant even think in any other way. I will soon make it. I will cut in paper first to see if I got it right.
Best regards!
Cristina.
What if i want to make the lenght longer? Do i maintain the side panel / pocket the same lenght?
Hi Farta –
The skirt length can easily be adjusted!
Please see my responses below to either Wanda or Bonnie for detailed instructions on how to do this!
Thanks,
-Corinne
Hi! Thank you for this tutorial! I just need help with attaching pockets to side panel please. I can’t wrap my head around the instructions as to where to make that fold. Can you please post a video? Thank you!
Hi Iryna –
Thank you for writing in! I’m sorry this part of the pattern is giving you trouble. Posting a video of this step is a great idea. Unfortunately we do not have the time or resources to do this immediately, but hopefully we will be able to make this addition to the pattern in the coming weeks.
In the meantime, one of our readers, Deedee, just posted a great description of how to make the pocket fold that I think might help:
“The seam attaching the pocket to the panel becomes the upper edge of the pocket and when you fold the fabric, the depth of the pocket is not the full depth of the panel.”
Does that help clear up some of the confusion? If not, stay tuned! We will look into getting a video up for this step shortly.
-Corinne
Hi! My fabric seems a little sheer. How would I add a lining to the skirt? Thank you!
Hi Catherine –
Before you jump into making a lining, keep this in mind: two of the fabrics that we used in this project (the Large Gingham and Light Pink Cotton) are both fabrics that I would normally consider quite sheer, but are made wearable without a lining because of the shadows made by the many puckers and gathers in the Skirt. You may be surprised to find that your fabric will work just fine (and will keep you covered!) even without a lining.
However, if you would prefer to add the extra layer, it won’t add too much extra work, and I am happy to help!
First, the lining can be sewn together with two simple rectangles (no need to add the Pockets or Side Panels). Just measure the circumference of the finished Skirt Loop (once you’ve pieced the two main panels with the two Pocket Panels, but before you’ve made the gathers), divide it by two, and then add 1. This should be the width (long side) of the Lining piece. The length (short side) of the piece should be the same as the short side of the Main Panel. Cut two pieces from the lining fabric using these dimensions. Sew them together along the two short sides with a 1/2-inch seam allowance to create a loop of fabric. Finish the raw edges of the seams with a zigzag stitch. Hem one end of this Loop as described in the “Hem” section of the pattern.
After you have pieced both the Lining and the Outer Skirt, and with wrong sides facing, tuck the loop of Lining fabric inside the Skirt Loop so that the raw edges of the two pieces meet. Baste along this top raw edge, sewing through both layers of fabric, and gather the Skirt as described in the “Baste” and “Gather” sections of the pattern.
Finish the pattern as described.
I hope this helps!
-Corinne
Thank you so much Corinne! I’ve had a lot of fun learning to sew with your patterns. Can’t wait to give this a try.
Hello Catherine –
Thank you for writing in with this a wonderful note! What a nice thought to think that I’ve helped introduce you to this wonderful skill!
Please let me know if you have any questions as you work on this project!
-Corinne
Thanks for this great pattern! I am trying to make one for my daughter and cannot seem to work out the pocket/side panel. Once I sew the two pieces right sides together and then edgestitch, when I fold them as directed, the pocket piece looks right but my main fabric side piece is wrong side facing out. You say to then fold the side piece right sides facing, but I seem to just be confusing myself. Should I have joined them with one right side and one wrong side facing? I assume I hem the pocket piece at this point too? Sorry for all the questions!
I just read your description from Deedee and it answered all my questions. Thanks!
Hi Charlotte –
Great! I’m glad Deedee’s explanation helped to clarify this step. Please let me know if I can help with anything else!
Best,
-Corinne
Hi there,
I’m a little woman, 5ft with a 29″/30″ waist. Should I make the age 12 size or the smallest ladies size ? ? Looking forward to getting started!
Warm wishes,
Dee.
Hi Dee –
I recommend making the larger of the two sizes, so the smallest women’s size. In my experience, it is always easier to take a garment in if needed than it is to make it bigger! If you are worried that it may end up too long, I suggest waiting to hem the Skirt until after you have finished the waistband. This way you will be able to try it on and get the length cut just right before hemming. Just remember to leave 2 1/2 inches for the fold of the hem.
I hope this helps. Please let me know if you have any other questions as you work on this project!
Best,
-Corinne
Your pattern is so cool! Thanks for sharing. The PDF version is really simple and pleasant to use.
I’ll make one (or two 😉 ) for my little girl, here in France.
Thanks a lot!
Hi from Australia!
Thanks for providing this beautiful pattern for free. I feel really silly for asking, but I was wondering if you could explain the measuring charts? I can convert the numbers into cm but I’m not sure how to use the chart. My daughter would be size 2-3. What does 3/4 etc mean? And then 2x 11 1/2 etc.
Thanks again,
Tiffany
Hi Tiffany –
Yes! There is a lot of information on those charts. I can see how it can be confusing if you’re also working on conversions!
The first chart shows fabric requirements, in yards. So, to make a skirt for your daughter in size 2-3, the chart shows that you will need 3/4 yards of fabric in the main color for the body of the skirt, and between 1/4 and 1/2 yards of fabric for the pockets, depending on how you would like them cut (with the grain, across the grain or on the bias). You will want to do a yards to meters conversion for these numbers.
The second chart shows the measurements for the cut rectangles that make up the body of the skirt: the Main Panels, Side Panels and Waistband. The numbers shown on this chart are the dimensions of these rectangles in inches, so the Main Panels of the Skirt in size 2-3 should be cut to 20 inches by 11 1/2 inches, the Side Panels should be 6 inches by 14 inches, etc. You will want to do an inches to centimeters conversion for these numbers.
The final chart shows the dimensions of the Pocket pieces. The Pocket in size 2-3 should be cut to 6 inches by 8 1/2 inches. You will want to do an inches to centimeters conversion for these numbers.
I hope this helps!
Please let me know if you have any other questions!
-Corinne
Hi Corinne,
Thank you, happy to know I was on the right track. Thanks for the detailed explanation, it’s appreciated.
Regards,
Tiffany 🙂
Hi there,
Thank you for such clear directions for such an adorable skirt!
I’ve just finished making it for myself and it’s way too bunchy at the top. The waist fits, but it’s a bit unflattering because of the bunches. Is there anything I can do? Do I need to cut off the top and then cut down a side a cut out a chunk of material?
A note– I used a heavier material, a linen blend, maybe that’s why it looks too bunchy?
Thank you for your help/advice!
Nadia
Hi Nadia –
I’m sorry the skirt is a bit too bunchy in the front for you! I think you’re correct that the heavier weight of the linen fabric might be to blame. But, one of the lovely things about linen is that it softens up with every wash and dry. Before you take your seam ripper to the project, I recommend giving it one or two cycles in the wash. You may find that this is all it needs to smooth out.
If this doesn’t work the only way to solve the problem will be to remove the waistband and cut off a bit of the width from the front Main Panel and then reattach, but at least you’ll know you’re getting a Skirt that fits just the way you like it!
I hope this helps!
-Corinne
My 7 year old daughter and I tackled this as a fun project to do together. She picked out the fabric and while I was skeptical of her choices at first (big butterflies on pink background for the main fabric and tiny butterflies on a different color pink for the pockets) I think it turned out really nice. I wish I could share a pic 🙂
The only thing that gave me a little trouble was the pockets. Others might find it helpful when piecing the side panels and pockets that if the pocket needs to be oriented in a certain way, make the fabric “upside down” in relation to the side panel. It makes the pocket print turn out right side up in the end.
Thanks for a great pattern and the wonderful memories my daughter and I will share from making this together. I am also thinking about picking up some navy blue and khaki fabric and making her a few uniform skirts for school. It’s hard to find uniform skirts with pockets and the pockets are her favorite part of the skirt!
Dear Corinne,
what a wonderful inspiring website! I found you on ravelry, searching for knitting patterns, and I am totally amazed of your wonderful creations. I love your style, and whenever I go back to New York I will come and stop by! We live in Munich, Germany, it will take a little while, but some day…however, I love this skirt, and would love to sew it for myself without pockets. The fabric I have is full of flowers and I think it would be nice to have just a gathered skirt without pockets. Please can you help me- I don’t know how much fabric I have to add..thank you so much. Looking forward to hearing from you. Best regards Julia
Hi Julia –
Thank you for writing in, and for your kind words! We would love for you to visit the shop whenever you are in town!
Making the skirt without pockets should be very simple, and you shouldn’t need any additional fabric.
Here are my suggestions for the alteration:
1. Cut the Main Panels and Waistband as described in the pattern.
2. Cut the Side Panel so that its short side is the same length as the length listed in the cutting chart, but its long side is equal to the length of the short side of the Main Panel. (for example, if you were making the skirt for a child’s size 2-3, you would cut the Side Panel to 6 by 11 1/2 inches). You do not need to cut a Pocket piece.
3. Follow all instructions as given, skipping only the “Piece the Side Panels and Pockets” section.
I hope this helps! Please let me know if you have any other questions as you are putting your Skirt together!
-Corinne
Lovely project! Thank you! My two girls, ages 4 and 6 love their skirts made from your polka dot cottons. Very easy and fun. The pockets are definitely a hit and have already carried batches of cookies, pinecones, socks and chalk.
Yay! Finished my skirt and I love it. Since I am a beginner I made a couple of mistakes and probably did not choose the best size, the result were the pockets looking like the popped out. I solved it by gathering 1/3 of each half-pocket top edge and sewing over the fold, it’s hard to explain but I can send you a pic if that helps. Since I used cotton that dries very well and the weather is beautiful, I guess I’ll be wearing this every single day this summer 🙂
I’ve made one too and we loooove it!
Such a great and easy pattern – there will be many more 🙂
Thank you for all your Inspiration, Lena
http://zauberflink.blogspot.de/2015/09/schatzsuche.html
Lovely skirt pattern! Do you have any similar patterns for making culottes? I really like the style of this skirt and think it would make a nice pair of culottes too, but don’t know how to do it!
Fiona
Hi Fiona –
This is a great question. Culottes would be so cute! Unfortunately we do not currently have a culottes pattern, but I love the idea!
Have you seen the Merchant and Mills pattern for The 101 Trouser?
https://www.purlsoho.com/patterns/sewing/the-101-trouser.html
I think this pattern could easily be adapted to get the style that you’re looking for.
I hope this helps!
-Corinne
Hi there – I just finished the skirt for my 7year old daughter. Took me about 2 1/2 hours and I think it came out beautiful . I am in Germany so I had to convert but it was not a problem. I used a thin cotton and thought at first too it would be to sheer but it is perfect for a warm summer day! I am sure my daughter will not wait till the weather gets better and will wear it with tights tomorrow to school. Next one is for me! Thanks for the pattern and great step to step tutorial.
Silke
This skirt is great — to prevent thread breakage gathering the top u can also use a zig zag over dental floss and it never breaks and stays put. Also works great on heavy fabrics!
Hi, Ria!
Thank you for your suggestion, that’s a great idea! Again, thank you for writing in!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Love this skirt. Can’t wait to make a few of these for my daughter. What is the advantage of creating gathers by hand and attaching a separate waistband, instead of simply folding over the top of the skirt to make a casing, and using the elastic to create the gathered look? Is there a noticeable difference in the way the fabric hangs?
Thanks!
Hi Jennifer –
This is a great question! This pattern actually includes both sewn gathers and an elastic casing. I included both in the pattern to make the waistband as smooth and comfortable as possible. I am afraid that gathering the whole width of the skirt up in one piece might make the waistband too bulky. Including sewn gathers also helps to keep them evenly spaced.
I hope this helps!
Please let me know if you have any other questions as you work on this pattern!
-Corinne
Hello Corinne,
Thanks for this! You are very generous with your time, energy, and creativity! I just found this today, April 2016, and I look forward to making several of these as contra dance skirts! I may add some triangle gores to make the skirts even more flouncy (it’s fun to twirl and have the skirt flare out, and to show off the matching shorts underneath!) =)
thanks again, Rita, Michigan
hi
would it be possible to make this skirt also with the new “metallic linen” that you are offering? or is that fabric to stiff for it? great pattern! thanks* nicoletta
Hi, Nicoletta!
Thank you for your question! You can definitely use our new Mineral Linen for the Gathered Skirt! The linen softens up nicely once you’ve washed it. Thank you for your kinds words and please let us know if you have further questions!
Best,
Kumeko
Hello, Nicoletta!
I just wanted to update you with some information about our new Mineral Linen. The Mineral Linen is such a new and exciting fabric for us and we are discovering new things about it everyday! We have discovered that this fabric looks great after one to two machine washes, however, after that we highly recommend dry cleaning, just to maintain that nice metallic sheen. Thank you so much for your interest in our new Mineral Linen! If you have further questions, please let us know!
Best,
Kumeko
can you recommend a 12 mos and 18 mos measurement? thank you!
Hi, Czarina!
Thank you so much for writing in! I am sorry for the delay in response to your question! To make a skirt for a child aged 12 months to 18 months we recommend these measurements:
Main Panel: 18 x 10 inches
Side Panel: 6 x 13 inches
Waistband: 3 x 23 inches
Pocket: 6 x 7 1/2 inches
Elastic: 19 inches
Again, thank you for writing in! Please let us know if you have further questions!
Best,
Kumeko
Would handkerchief linen work. If not, please recommend a linen that would work for this skirt.
Thank you
pat vohr
Hello, Pat!
Thank you for writing in! The Handkerchief linen will work for this skirt! Other great options include our brand new Mineral Linen or our Linen Grid. If you have further questions please let us know!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Hi~
Any chance there’s a pdf or easy print of this pattern/instructions? It would be easier for me to work from rather than scanning through on my computer… Many thanks for the great simple pattern!
Hello Joy –
This is a great question! You can easily print out the pattern, or save as a PDF using the “Print” link on the post page.
If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials.
I hope this helps!
-Corinne
A compliment and a couple suggestions.
First- I have never seen the gathering tied off as you did- ingenious! I’ve been sewing for, a hmmm, nearly 50 years (good golly- how does THAT happen!) and that was new to me. Love learning new tricks!
Second- I made this in linen, so it is a bit heavy and I wish that I had topstitched the pocket seam. Also, against my better judgement, I tried attaching the waist band as suggested- without trimming the seam before topstiching the band down. Dismal results no doubt intensified due to the heaviness of the linen. Trimming the excess seam makes it much easier to feed the elastic through without it rolling. When I opened the waistband back up to trim the seam allowance I also added interfacing to the waistband and feel it makes the skirt look better and the waistband lay better.
One additional comment is that I was initially going to make this in a border print, with the border running along the hem edge. Thankfully I made the first one in a plain fabric. I understood the ‘pocket’ in the directions to be the area where hands and keys, etc would go- As I now understand it, the pocket is actually the part that runs from the hem up to the fabric labeled ‘side panel’- the fabric actually used to make the ‘pocket’. It doesn’t appear that others have taken this as literally as I, and you have a lot of comments here so this may not be seen anyway, but perhaps my comment will save someone from cutting their fabric incorrectly and arriving at disappointment (as I would have been with my border print).
Cute pattern and I will definitely make again. I may put a seam in the back and add a zipper, reducing the waistband size/bulk. Thank you!
Hello Janice C –
Thank you for your comment, your kind words, and all of your tips! Your experience with this pattern (and undoubtably many others!) is a great help to us, and I am sure will be for many of our readers as well!
Keep sewing, and keep writing in!
Thank you,
-Corinne
the pocket piece section is soooo confusing and the video help is far from a short video almost one hour long, is there and other help
Hello Sheila –
Thank you for writing in! I’m sorry this part of the pattern is giving you so much trouble!
I’m afraid you might be reading the timer on the video incorrectly. It is only one minute and 23 seconds, and hopefully very enlightening! I recommend that you watch these instructions, and if the pocket continues to give you trouble, please write back and I will be happy to help more!
-Corinne
I’ve just finished the first gathered skirt of what will surely be a long series ! I am delighted with the result, although I should probably have gone for the first size (2/3) for Fleur, who is 3 and a half. As it is, the skirt is just a little bit too big, but still perfectly wearable.
Thank you so much for a great, great tutorial. You really have a talent for clarity. In most patterns I’ve worked with, there’s always something that is left a little bit unclear, or the picture doesn’t help, but this tutorial is just spot on ! All i had to do was convert inches to cm, but all you need to do that is an internet connection! I’ll definitely try some other patterns from Purl Soho.
Apparently I am the only person, so far, bright enough to piece the pockets to the main panels, only to realize when I put right sides together to form the tube that my two pocket panels are side by side instead of alternating with the main panel pieces. womp womp To the seam ripper!
This is an adorable pattern that goes together beautifully. And kudos to Corinne for fielding all the comments with such grace and diplomacy.
Can you please tell what you would recommend to shorten the skirts 2 – 3 inches. Thanks.
Hi Sue! Great question!
The easiest way to hem this skirt would be during the actual hem section of the pattern rather than later after construction. Corinne recommends hemming 2 inches for adults. If you are sure you want to raise the hem two to three more inches, this is best point to do that. If you like the depth of the pockets though, I would recommend trimming an inch or so from the top of the skirt before you’ve added the waistband. Regardless, if you’re not sure about where you want your hem to fall, this skirt is so easily constructed perhaps you’d like to consider making a mock up in muslin! Our beautiful Moda Muslin can be viewed here!
Thanks for writing in and happy sewing!
Keith
What an ingenious pattern, very well-thought-out. I love clothing made from rectangles!Less waste, although I did decide to make the bias-cut pocket. I recycled two older indigo chambray skirts, one with a pinstripe, to make one new Gathered Skirt. The pocket-making video is a great help in figuring out the clever fold. One hint: before sewing ends of elastic together and sewing waistband shut, try on skirt and adjust elastic length as needed.
Thanks for writing in Deborah! And great tip!
Keith
This was a great tutorial. The short video helped a lot. Thank you.
I want to take project of stitching.
Hello Vikash!
Thank you for your interest in our pattern! Please let us know if you have any questions.
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Hey 🙂
Where I can find the pattern? Sorry, my english is not so good.
best greetings
Julia
Hi Julia,
Thanks for writing in! It is not a traditional tissue or printed paper pattern. The skirt is constructed using simple cut rectangles. A Cutting Chart with a full list of dimensions is included as well as a Cutting Guide for proper layout on your fabric.
I hope that this helps and happy sewing!
Cassy
Did it ! Looks great ! So many thanks for this beautiful explained pattern !
Hi Cristina,
So glad you like it, it is the perfect skirt for the summer.
Have a great day,
Melissa