Bobble Yoke Sweater for Babies + Toddlers
If there were a song for my Bobble Yoke Sweater along the lines of the kid’s classic “Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes”, it’d go “Neck, Yo-oke, Body and Sleeves…” Knitting this sweater is that easy (and fun!).
In the age-old top-down, round-yoke method of knitting a sweater, this one starts with a rib and ends with the same, but between the two, there’s a knitting adventure: A playful, marled yoke, shaped with bubbly little bobbles; a technique for working underarm stitches that avoids both sewing and the Kitchener Stitch (!); and simple sleeves knit right off the yoke.
I paired all these sweet details with our most sumptuous yarns: two strands of Jade Sapphire’s 2 Ply Mongolian Cashmere, cede to one strand of cashmere plus one strand of Purl Soho’s gorgeous 100% merino Line Weight, to finish with two strands of Line Weight. You’ll also need our Bobble Yoke Sweater for Babies + Toddlers Pattern. It’s sized for little ones from nine months to five years and it’s full of helpful tips and photos!
A traditional style plus a beautiful mixture of materials and textures equals a modern-day heirloom-to-be. Sometimes it’s as easy as that. Old structures, new yarns and charming stitches come together as if meant to be, as easy as “Neck, Yo-oke, Body and Sleeves”! -Laura
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoBobbleYokeSweater, and #PurlSohoLineWeight. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- Yarn A: 1 skein of Jade Sapphire’s 2-Ply Cashmere, 100% Mongolian cashmere. Each skein is 400 yards/ 55 grams; approximately 95 (100, 105, 120, 140) yards required. We used the color Ivory. (NOTE: We no longer offer Jade Sapphire’s 2-Ply Cashmere, but choose from one of our other fingering weight yarns.)
- Yarn B: 2 skeins of Purl Soho’s Line Weight, 100% merino. Each skein is 494 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 505 (575, 685, 805, 935) yards required. We used the color Desert Blue.
- A US 5 (3.75 mm), 16-inch circular needle
- A US 5, 24-inch circular needle
- A set of US 5 double pointed needles
- 2 stitch markers
- Stitch holders and/or scrap yarn
- A Bobble Yoke Sweater for Babies + Toddlers Pattern
For more color inspiration I swatched up a few of our other favorite colors…
Top Row: Yellow Yellow, Desert Blue, Super Pink; Middle Row: Steel Blue, Red Zinnia, Storm Gray; Bottom Row: Artemisia Green, Peacock, Pink Grapefruit
Gauge
24 stitches and 34 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, holding two strands of Yarn B
Sizes
9-12 months (18 months, 2 years, 3-4 years, 5 years)
- Finished Chest Circumference: 20 (20¾, 22, 24, 26) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 12 (13¼, 14½, 15¼, 16) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 6 (7, 8, 8½, 8¾) inches
- Finished Length from Cuff to Underarm: 6½ (7, 8½, 9½, 11) inches
- Ease: This garment is designed with a 2-inch ease around the chest.
- Sample: Pictured here is little Lupe wearing the 2 years size!
Update New Colors + Sizes!
August 30, 2021
A new look in new colors, our Bobble Yoke Sweater Pattern is now sized from 9-month old babies to size 14 kid. You knit this beauty up using two strands of super soft Line Weight merino. Click here to read more!
I’ve been searching for the bobble yoke sweater pattern-every time I click on a highlighted phrase, I get sent to the patterns search and I have yet to see this pattern come up to buy. Where is it?
Thanks!
Carol
Hi Carol,
Thanks so much for pointing this out! The link is now fixed. You can also find the pattern here:
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/9621-Purl-Soho-Bobble-Yoke-Sweater-for-Babies-Toddlers
I know a seven year-old who would adore this. Any chance I could get the pattern in a larger size?
Hi Samantha-
It’s not available as a larger size at the moment but we may offer it in other sizes in the coming months. Thanks so much for the suggestion!
Molly
Hi, I just purchased this bobble sweater pattern and cannot find the link to download it. I got my receipt but it is not there either. Just wondered if I had missed something? Thanks
Hi Cheryl-
I’m so sorry to hear you’re having trouble with this! Please email customerservice AT purlsoho DOT com and they’ll help you sort it out!
Thanks so much and good luck with the pattern!
Molly
So adorable!! Would love it in larger sizes 🙂
Is it suitable for little boys?
Hi Granny.
Sizing wise… definitely YES! And as for appropriateness, I also think YES. I would definitely put a little boy in this sweater. Perhaps a 5 year old little boy would protest, but I think for little little ones, this sweater could be for either gender.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Hello. I’d like to make this in a different yarn. Would I use 2 lace weight yarns together? Could you tell me the yardage on each of the yarns? I’m looking to make the 9-12 month size. Thanks!
Hi Nieke.
Thanks for your interest in the pattern. Yes, you would use 2 lace weight yarns pulled together.
For Yarn A, you need approximately 95 (100, 105, 120, 140) yards
For Yarn B, you need approximately 505 (575, 685, 805, 935) yards
Thanks for writing in!
Laura
I love this pattern, and I second the call for adjusting it to larger children’s sizes. I would buy the kit in a heartbeat if it came in size 6-7!
This sweater is so lovely! Is there any possibility of someone sizing it for adults? I would love to have one in my size!
Cheers,
Nancy
Hi Nancy-
Thanks for the suggestion! We are planning on sizing this up in the future!
Best-
Molly
Any substitution for the cashmere?
Hi Lancy-
Yes! You can use a skein of the Line Weight in Heirloom White. I’m knitting one now like that and it’s coming out beautifully!
Best-
Molly
This is one of my favorite patterns of yours to date! If I wanted to use a single strand, would a worsted or DK weight work? Or is it best suited to using a double strand? Thanks in advance!
Hi Casey-
You need to use the double strand for this not only because you are mixing the two colors of yarn around the yoke but also because you use only one strand of yarn when you are making the bobbles.
Please let us know if you have any more questions!
Best-
Molly
Hi, the sweater is SO cute, but I am wondering about three techniques mentioned that I’ve not done before, and whether this is an appropriate project for an advanced beginner.
1) using two yarns together
2) the bobbles
3) the underarm bit
Thanks!
Hi Alicia-
This is Molly, not Laura who is the author of the pattern, but I think I can answer your questions because I’m making this myself and I’m not the worlds greatest knitter…
1) This is really really easy. Just treat the two yarns as one yarn unless otherwise noted, as in the bobble section.
2) If you have made anything with increases and decreases you can make a bobble. Before you start the sweater you will have to knit a little swatch to test your gauge anyway so once you establish that the gauge is correct you can practice making Bobble A and Bobble B on the swatch. If you knit the swatch flat just make sure you do the bobbles on the right side of your work (the knitting side as opposed to the purling side.) Even if they seem a little confusing at first they get easier and quicker as you go.
3) The underarms aren’t hard but you do need to know how to do a cable cast on. Here is a tutorial for that: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/07/07/cable-cast-on/
So I think, if you’re motivated and willing to try some new things you could probably knit this as long as you have completed some other larger projects that mix different skills in the past, like a pair of mittens or a simple baby sweater. (You’ll also want to make sure you are comfortable with double pointed needles.)
It is a wonderful pattern and I’m having a great time knitting it! Also, if you have any questions we’re always happy to help!
Best-
Molly
My gauge swatch is coming out to 25 stitches and 32 rows for 4 inches. I could swatch using a size 6, but I’m afraid that I’ll end up with even less rows. Do I need to adjust the pattern or do you think it will be okay with this slight difference? First time knitting a sweater so not sure how exact the guage has to be. I’m worried about the bobble section where the row counts are exact – will the underarm end up too low? Regarding the stitches across, do I need to add more stitches to the pattern or can I just block it to the right width? I want to knit sizes 12-18 months and 5 years, if that matters. Thanks!
Hi Sarah.
I’m excited this is your first sweater. I hope you love it!
Ok, as for the gauge…
I got 24 and 34 rows = 4 inches or 6 stitches and 8.5 rows = 1 inch.
You’re getting 25 and 32 rows = 4 inches or 6.25 stitches and 8 rows = 1 inch.
It is more important that you hit stitch gauge than row gauge for this pattern. I would change needles to ensure you are getting the correct stitch gauge and then I’ll help you compensate for any discrepancies in row gauge.
As for your row gauge right now… I think you will be ok in the underarms. If anything they will be higher than mine. If you want, you can throw an extra even row in between the last two sets of bobbles or the last couple rounds of bobbles. This will compensate for the difference in row gauge.
Please let me know if you have any questions or if you’d like some more specific instructions on how to deal with row gauge!
Thanks for writing in and for your interest in the pattern. I love that you are making 2!
Laura
Hi!
So, I don’t know what I’m doing wrong, or if I’m doing anything wrong, but the stitches before my bobbles are all loose and is making the sweater look a funky. Should I tighten up my tension before the bobbles or will it block out?
Hi Margaret.
How loose are they? My gut instinct is to tell you “yes” to both. Perhaps when you’re working the bobbles the previous stitch loses its tension. So you may want to be consciences of maintaining tension there. Also I do think some of this unevenness will come out when you block.
Did you work any bobbles in your swatch? Maybe you could make a swatch with a few bobbles and block it and see how big a problem the tension is or isn’t.
I do hope this helps. Let us know if you have any questions.
Laura
Is the Line Weight yarn washable? Are the washing instructions for your yarns available online? I knit for children, primarily, and washing seems to come with the territory. 😉
Hi Lisa-
This yarn is not machine washable but it does wash beautifully by hand!
Thanks for getting in touch!
Molly
Hi
I’m having trouble with the 16″ needle length for the neckband. It seems to small to join in the round. Perhaps I’m doing something wrong! My gauge is coming out fine, I’m using the suggested yarns and needle sizes.
Any suggestions?
Thanks for your help,
Bess
Hi Bess-
It sounds like maybe you are casting on too tightly. Perhaps you can try to cast on again very loosely and see if that works?
Let us know how it goes!
Best-
Molly
I just finished knitting this cute little sweater not long ago. I loved it! Thank you for creating such unique patterns that are fun to knit. I’ve never met a Purl Bee pattern I didn’t like!
This is a fantastic pattern! It’s simple enough to knit with little interruptions but interesting enough to stay fresh! I used all Line Weight and it’s incredibly soft! My 3 year old picked pink. The pink color in unexpectedly unusual! Thank you!
This is such a great pattern ! I can’t wait for an adult size pattern ! When do you think you will post it ? I have seen on the comments that you are working on it ! thanks !
Hi Maelle.
Thanks for your interest in the pattern!
We’re hoping to publish it within the month!!!
Thanks again.
Laura
Hello!
I am so excited to start this sweater and have been practicing on my gauge swatch as some techniques are new to me. One being the bobbles. I have tried making both types of bobbles in your directions but neither seems to be coming out correctly. Do you have any suggestions or more detailed instructions/video?
Thanks so much!
Melinda
Hi Melinda.
I’m so glad you like the sweater. And brava for practicing your bobbles before casting on!
Sadly we don’t have a video of this. I appreciate the request thought and will talk to our videographer about getting it on our list!
I’d love to help you get more comfortable with these bobbles. Is there something about what you’re doing that doesn’t seem right? Are you stuck on a specific step? Have you blocked your swatch? The fabric and bobbles will relax and bloom, filling out the bobbles and filing up the tiny gap below. Sometimes with techniques like these, the more I do them the more comfortable my hands get with the motion and the more relax and even my tension becomes.
Please write us back! I’d love to help figure this out with you.
Laura
Hi Laura,
I would love to be able to tell you what I’m doing wrong! 🙂 But honestly, I’m not sure if I’m even starting them correctly in the first place. Specifically, Bobble “A” seems different to me compared to the videos I have looked up online. Does it depend if you knit continental or American style? I’m confused as to where I should put my left needle to start the bobble. Feel free to reach out on my personal email if you might have suggestions.
Thanks!
Melinda
Hey Melinda.
I’m going to email you right now!
Laura
Hi Laura,
So upon more practice, I was able to master Bobble “B”, would it throw the pattern off if I only used this bobble instead of both?
Thanks!
Melinda
Hey Melinda.
Congrats on Bobble B.
You do need to be able to do Bobble A as well though. The two bobbles are distinctly different for a reason and create different increases. Without doing them both, your bobbles won’t be in a centered/staggered pattern.
Laura
I just ordered the pattern for the Bobble Sweater for Babies, download & hardcopy. I can’t wait to get it! Question: what weight yarn can I substitute for the Jade Sapphire 2-ply mongolian cashmere? I’m allergic to cashmere so I can’t knit with it!
Thanks
Hi Jill-
You can use our Line Weight yarn as a substitution for the cashmere. I just knit a version like this and it worked beautifully!
Thanks for your question!
Molly
Just curious… What’s the best way of knitting the neckband… Using 2 strands of yarn A?
Hi Simer.
Yes, you start this project by pulling two strands of the same yarn. To pull two strands at the same time, you can either roll your skein into two equal sized balls or you could roll it into a center pull ball. With a center pull ball you can pull the yarn from the inside and the outside simultaneously. The easiest way to do that is using a swift and ball winder, but there is a good ol fashion hand-winding method as well. Here’s a video for how to do it… http://www.knittinghelp.com/video/play/winding-a-center-pull-ball
Thanks.
Laura
Help (again!!). I’m stuck with the very first part of this pattern. So I have tried casting on 5 times..and it wont join in the round. Tried smaller and bigger needles…just no way close to being able to join in the round. Any tips? I am casting on quite loosely already…Boo 🙁
Hi Simer.
I’m so sorry you’re stuck! Can I ask… what do you mean it won’t join in the round? Are the needles simply too long for the number of stitches you cast on for the neck? I used a 16-inch circular needle. What length have you tried? Maybe you chould start with double pointed needles?
Please let us know how it goes!
Laura
I’m confused about the row where you separate for body and sleeves. I am making the 3-4 year size. The pattern says “knit 40, place previous 40 stitches on a stitch holder for left sleeve”. So does that mean that the first 40 stitches of the row (right after the marker) become the stitches for the left sleeve? Then you knit 106 and place previous 40 stitches on stitch holder to make the right sleeve – so does that mean the final 40 stitches of the 106 become the right sleeve. I think I’m a bit confused by the use of “previous” in the description.
Hi Kate!
Thanks for writing in! Hopefully I can clear up the “previous” confusion for you! It sounds like you are on track though! Yes the first 40 stitches are for the Left Sleeve and yes the last 40 stitches of the 106 stitches is for the Right Sleeve.
The beginning/end-of-round marker is towards the left side of the front of the sweater (if you’re wearing it. Front right if you’re looking at it laid on a table). So to separate the Body and Sleeves… First you work across the 40 Front Left sleeve stitches, then you put those 40 stitches you just (previously) knit on hold. Then you work 106 stitches. The first 66 stitches of that 106 are for the Back, the remaining 40 stitches of that 106 stitches is for the Left Sleeve. You put those 40 stitches you just worked on hold. Then you knit across the Front to the end of the round to end up with a total of 132 stitches.
Please let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
Thanks so much I really appreciate your help, that is so great to get a reply quickly! it all makes sense now and I will get on with it.
Please help! I can’t figure out what part to do where, I seem to be missing a page in my instructions that gives the overall picture of what part I knit and when? Do I start with the neckband then cast on back shoulders? Any overall picture would be appreciated!
Hello Laura!
You should have a photo! How strange! The pattern is constructed from the top of the sweater down, starting with the neck and then increasing for the shoulders. The sections are written in order of how they should be constructed, so it shouldn’t be too hard to figure out which section comes next.
Please feel free to directly email customerservice AT purlsoho DOT com, if you think something is wrong with your purchased PDF or paper pattern! Thanks for writing in, Alyson
Hi,
I’m just starting on this beautiful sweater ( my first) and I already have a question… What type of cast on did you use ? A long tail tubular or just regular long tail? Which do you recommend?
Thank you for your help!
Hello Melian,
Thanks for your interest in this pattern! We used a long tail cast on, but you can also use a long tail tubular cast on as well. I personally prefer the tubular cast on, but any old cast on will do! Happy knitting!
Best,
Adam
Hi, I love this pattern! I would like to make 2 sweaters, one in the 5-yrs size and one in the 6-yrs. Will it be enough to buy 1 skein of the 2-ply cashmere? Could you please tell me the yardage for each of the yarns?
Best,
Frida
Hi Frida,
Thanks for your kind comment! In making the child’s size 5 and 6 you will use approximately 380 yards total, so you should be fine with one skein of Jade Sapphire 2-ply cashmere since the yardage is 400 yards. Just be careful with your ends! The Line Weight has approximately 490 yards and you can click here to see the yarn on our website. Best of luck on these sweaters! They are so sweet!
-Adam
Hi, I have question regarding the two bobble stitches. They are both described in the pattern as resulting in ‘1 stitch increased’ but using bobble B I end up with two stitches of yarn B on the needle. Is this a typo, or should I treat each bobble, with either 1 or 2 loops of yarn as one stitch when knitting over the next row? Many thanks in advance for any hints!
Hi Alexis,
Thanks for the question. Both bobbles should end up with one stitch increased. For bobble B you will KFB twice, resulting in four stitches on your right needle. When you turn the work, you’ll P2tog twice, resulting in two stitches. When you turn the work, you’ll pass these two stitches to your right-hand needle, resulting in a one-stitch increase. This is because you started with one stitch and ended up with two. Normally, for a regular bobble, you would pass the second stitch over the first to even out your stitch count. In this case you are intending to increase by one.
First, make sure you are dropping off the original knit stitch in the KFB, giving you four stitches from this maneuver. After purling two together, make sure you are left with two stitches as well. Let me know if you have any other questions!
-Adam
Your explanation of bobble B was explained so perfectly! I came to the comments just to see if someone had asked about bobble B. You should include this in the pattern!
Can shadow rows be used for short rows for the child size 8 bobble sweater?
Thanks
Hi Carol,
Awesome question! Using the shadow row technique shouldn’t cause any issues in the pattern as long as that is a method you are confident in. I think you should go for it!
Happy knitting!
Carly
Hi, I bought the jade sapphire cashmere skein but am having trouble using it – it seems to have multiple strands tied together and doesn’t unravel like a regular ball of wool – what am I doing wrong?
Hi Denise!
I’m wondering is you had your skein wound on a ball winder or if it was done by hand?
Please keep me posted!
Carly
Thank you for this adorable pattern! I’ve run into a funny problem with Bobble A–I have perfect-looking bobbles but they pop through to the back of the fabric, not the front. I’ve tried pushing them through but they won’t stay. Any idea what I’ve done wrong?
I solved this myself, still no idea what I did, but I thought I’d post some tips on Bobble A in case they helped someone else! Firstly when you knit front and back on the bar once, don’t drop the bar (it will now resemble a stitch) on the left needle. Your right needle is above it so come around in front of it and insert as if to knit and do the knit front and back again. THEN drop it off the left needle. (Probably this is self-evident to more experienced knitters). For the last part, move both stitches to the right needle and THEN lift the rightmost one (the first one you slipped) over the leftmost one.
Hope this helps someone!
Thanks for this comment Anne! It was super helpful as a novice bobble maker!
Hello! I’m loving this pattern but my A bobbles are not as nicely rounded and don’t pop as much as the B bobbles. I’ve read the directions over and over and think I’m doing everything right. Should the bobbles look identical? Any tips?
Hi Joy,
Thanks for writing in! It may be that your tension differs slightly from booble B to booble A due to the fact that bobble A uses a bar between the stitches whereas bobble B uses a stitch. I would recommend blocking a swatch with both bobbles and seeing if that helps to make both bobbles pop equally. You may also want to try loosening your tension a bit when making bobble A as tighter tension could pull the bobble down into the work a bit more.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thank you! Adjusting the tension on bobble A helped a lot. I think when blocked the difference will be less noticeable.
I’m currently knitting this sweater (all line weight) for my daughter and loving it so much I’m already planning a second. Can you recommend some machine-washable yarn? I’m considering Tosh Merino light as I’ve enjoyed working with that before, but would it be too heavy? Thank you!
Hi Dianne,
Tosh Merino Light should work perfectly for your project! Line Weight is a similar weight but I would still recommend a small gauge swatch to be sure!
Happy knitting!
Carly
Hello! Loving this pattern and quickly trying to finish it for my 2 year old before Christmas. I’ve got to the sleeves and now stuck! All the stitches onto double pointed needles and I’ve knit the first few rounds but the outside of the sleeves seems to be in garter stitch rather than stockinette stitch like the rest of the jumper. Was I meant to turn the jumper inside out before putting the arm hol stitches onto double pointed needles? Any tips?! Thanks v much
Daphne
Hello Daphne,
Thanks for writing in! It sounds like you simply started knitting in the wrong direction, I’ve done this more than a few times, all you need to do is go back to the first row of your sleeve and knit in the opposite direction than you are now. I hope this fixes the issue and let me know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
are there any video tutorials on the bobble making portion of the pattern?
Hello Nina,
Thank you for reaching out! We do not have a video for this technique, but I will certainly pass along your request! Is there a particular part that I could try and problem solve with you?
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi just wondering if any of the colours you swatched up will be available? None in current stocks of cashmere or line weight.
Thanks ?
Hi Rita,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately we have discontinued many of the original colors of Line Weight since we released this pattern. We do still have Super Pink available, and the Jade Sapphire 2-Ply Cashmere is still available in Ivory. You can view our current palette of Line Weight here. You could also try substituting our Linen Quill or a second color of 2-Ply Cashmere for the Line Weight if those come in any colors you prefer!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello
I’m looking to purchase the wool required to make this jumper but it seems like you no longer offer the same colours for the line weight? (I’m looking for the Desert Blue) Could you please suggest an alternative?
Thank you!
Hello Serlina,
Thank you for reaching out! You are correct, Desert Blue is a discontinued color. If you are looking for a similar blue I would suggest looking at Brooklyn Tweed’s Peerie, Anzula’s Squishy, or Woolfolk’s Tynd.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi I am confused about the back shoulders – should I end up with approx one side larger than the other?also for row 8& 9 do I go back to knitting the whole round? When it says in row 2 to knit back to the “next marker” does it mean the start (ie. the marker you placed when you joined in the round?) Thank you!
Hi Laura,
Thanks for reaching out! After completing the short rows, you will end up with one portion of the yoke longer than the rest, which will end up centered at the back neck so that the front neck doesn’t ride up and the sweater fits comfortably over the shoulders. When knitting to a certain number of stitches before the next marker, you will be looking for the nearest marker when working that direction, so on row 2, you are correct that it is the beginning of round marker. After you have completed the final short row in Row 7, you will then knit one row and proceed to the Yoke instructions.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi,
I’m wondering if this sweater could be done entirely in white and with mohair– I’m thinking I would pair a strand of Line Weight with a strand of Tussock, both in heirloom white for the entire sweater. Would this work? Or would I need 2 strands of Line Weight and 1 strand of Tussock to maintain the required gauge? Just wondering what you think before I go ahead and order my skeins! Thank you!!
Hello Brooke,
Thank you for reaching out! This is a beautiful idea. The gauge will likely be slightly off, but I would try it with one strand of Tussock and one of Line Weight first. It should be close enough that you can make it work.
I hope this helps and let us know how it goes!
-Marilla
Hi, I am hoping someone can help me. I’m not sure what I’ve done wrong. I am about to start the section that says separate for body and sleeves but my stitch count is off. I am doing the 2 year old size. At the end of round 10 it says my stitch count should be 192 but I have 200 stitches. How do I go about doing to sleeves with my stitch count off? Should I just add 4 stitches to each sleeve. Also if you have any idea how my stitches are off by 8 that would be helpful as well. I’m not sure what happened. Please help! Thank you! Molly
Hi Molly,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you accidentally added 8 stitches, though I can’t say for sure how without seeing your work in person. I would decrease these four stitches while you are separating for the body and sleeves by working a k2tog before and after placing each set of sleeve stitches on scrap yarn and casting on for the underarm, as this will be well hidden in the underarm of the sweater.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
This was my first sweater and it turned out beautifully thanks to a great pattern with pictures and detailed descriptions. A video tutorial for the bobbles would have helped a lot. Thank you!
I need some help. I have been knitting for years and am a pretty accomplished knitter. I am baffled by the instruction on the back shoulders with the wrp-t. I see that no one else has commented on this.
If you do those first 7 rows of the back shoulders before the yoke, there are no bobbles and it won’t look like the picture.
Why are the back shoulder 7 rows there?
Please help. I love the pattern and plan to make this for my granddaughter!
Hi Maria,
Thanks for reaching out! You are correct that there are no bobbles in the short rows at the back of the neck – all of our pictures are of the front of the sweater, so it’s no wonder you didn’t see this spot in the pictures! This is quite a small area so the few rows without bobbles aren’t noticeable, and the short rows shape the neck so it is higher in the back and won’t ride up in the front.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Been reading through all the comments. I’m planning to use a different yarn for this pattern so I can machine wash it. I noticed that the description of your Line weight yarn says it’s a fingering weight yarn but in one of the comments above from another knitter you advise to use lace weight yarns as a replacement. Can you confirm which weight I should use? Fingering weight or lace weight? I know I can always adjust my needle size but I want to try to get the best size to start. Thanks!
Hi Elyse,
Great question! Both Line Weight and Jade Sapphire 2-Ply Cashmere are light fingering weight yarns, so they are somewhere between true lace and fingering weight. There is some flexibility in the weight because it is held double, so if you can’t find a light fingering weight yarn to substitute, you could use one strand of lace and one strand of true fingering weight instead. You may want to consider Anzula Cloud, which is a washable light fingering weight yarn that should work quite well as a substitute for both strands!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I would like to make this in a yarn suitable for a warm climate. Just made a size 10 in the recommended wools and it is wonderful, but will be way to warm for a LA child. Please recommend yarns and amounts for a size 5 or 6.
Thanks,
Deborah
Hi Deborah,
Thanks for reaching out! I would suggest using a combination of Cattail Silk and Sweetgrass – the silk and cotton combination should be great for warm weather! For the either the 5 year size in our Babies + Toddlers pattern or the size 6 in our Kids pattern, you would need 1 skein of Sweetgrass for Yarn A and 2 skeins of Cattail Silk for Yarn B.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi, I’m just started and stuck at the bobbles. I read the instructions as knit through the front and back of the bar twice. So Am I making one knit through each strand of the bar or one knit, one purl twice of both strands of the bar? I know I need four stitches total at the end. So confused!
Hi Emily,
I hope I can clarify this for you! You will be picking up both strands of the bar and, working into both strands at the same time, knitting into the front and back twice. In other words, without sliding this new stitch off the needle, you will knit, then purl, then knit, then purl again, so that you now have 4 stitches for the bobble.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thank you! When the bobble is complete, you should have one strand of the bobble color on the needle, correct?
Hi Emily,
You will actually have two stitches that are each just one strand of the bobble color when you are done, as the bobble also serves as the yoke increases.
Best,
Julianna
Hi,
I love the pattern and I am currently knitting size 7 for my grand-daughter. I am stuck on the 4th Row increase as I should finish with 150 stitches but if I follow the pattern and make a bobble every 8 stitches from beginning to the end of the row, I end up with 152 stitches. I end up with 17 bobbles on that row instead of 15 and not sure why.
Thanks for your help!
Helene
Hello Gen,
Thank you for reaching out! For Increase round you should be going from 135 stitches to 150 stitches. The first thing I would check is that you are starting with the correct number of stitches. You are correct, there should be 15 bobbles in your row. For each MB-b you are increasing by one stitch. This means that your 15 bobbles will account for a total of 30 stitches in your row. Your 15 sections of 8 stitches accounts for the remaining 120 stitches.
I hope this helps and let us know if you continue to have issues!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
I like the bobbles but am making this sweater for an older boy and would like to leave them off this version. How would you recommend handling the increasing rounds without bobbles? Thanks!
Hello Robin,
Thanks for reaching out! Each bobble gives you an increase of 1 stitch, so I would just replace each bobble with a knit one front and back.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I’m confused. I’m knitting the yoke part of the sweater for 3-4 year old. And at the end of Bobble b row, I only have 113 stitches, not 117.
Also, later on it says to remove marker, k1, replace marker and I don’t have a marker to remove.
Which marker is it referring to? All the markers from the back shoulders were removed. And I don’t see a place where I was supposed to put a new marker in the yoke section.
Hi Sandra,
Thanks for reaching out! I’m afraid I can’t say for sure how your stitch count got off without seeing your work, but since each bobble adds a stitch, I would start by counting how many bobbles you created on the last round. You should have 13 bobbles total, for 13 increased stitches, so if you have fewer, I would recommend taking this row out and verifying you had enough stitches before this row and then try it again.
At this point, you should still have one marker in your work, which is your end-of-round marker. On this row, you will knit to the end of the round, take out your marker, knit one more stitch, then replace your marker so that the start of your round is moved over by one stitch.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi, I am making this for my 2 yr old. She’s at the 50th percentile for weight but 90th percentile for head size. I’m making the 3T size for her to grow into. My question is with the neck size. Even at 3T, the neck hole measures around 13″ in circumference. When I measure her head, it’s about 20″. It doesn’t seem like I can slip this over her head. Is there a way for me to add buttons? Or should I make the 4T size?
Hi Thuan,
Thanks for reaching out! There will be a fair amount of stretch with the ribbing around the neck but that does seem a bit tight for a 20″ head. I would recommend possibly sizing up to the 4T since I think it would be pretty difficult to change the pattern to accommodate buttons.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Just what I was about to ask! I’m knitting the smallest size for a baby so will definitely add some buttons. Thinking of knitting the yoke back and forth and placing a little button band on what might have been the left hand front raglan.
Are there any video tutorial for the bobbles?
Hi Abigail,
Thanks for reaching out! You can find out bobble tutorial here!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi,
Can I use posy yarn for this sweater?
Thank you
Rose
Hi Rose,
Thanks for reaching out. Posy would be a really nice substitute since it’s also a fingering weight yarn! As always, we recommend making a gauge swatch before starting a project to be sure you’re working with the right needles, especially when substituting yarns. We have a great tutorial called All About Gauge, if you need any guidance!
All the best,
Lili