Traveling Cable Hat
Although cables look complicated, they’re only slightly more difficult than putting one foot in front of the other! These Traveling Cable Hats present the perfect opportunity to hone your cabling skills. Where an Aran sweater is the marathon of cable knitting, these hats are the 100-meter dash, every bit as beautiful but with the finish line in sight!
And with its remarkable stitch definition and undefeated softness, Purl Soho’s Alpaca Pure is the ideal yarn to show off the hard work (and beauty!) of cable knitting.
Update: November 2014
We now have a Traveling Cable Hat for Kids! Rather than casting on 3 repeats, like I did for the Alpaca Pure Baby size, I cast 2 repeats onto some big ol’ needles in our Super Soft Merino! For more photos and the full pattern, click here!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Gina Rockenwagner.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoTravelingCableHat. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 1 (2) skein(s) of Purl Soho’s Alpaca Pure, 100% alpaca. Each skein is 109 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 109 (218) yards required. We used Heirloom White for the Baby Hat and Artemisia for the Adult Hat. (NOTE: We no longer offer Alpaca Pure, but choose from one of our other worsted weight yarns.)
- US 5 (3.75 mm), 20-inch circular needle
- US 6 (4 mm), 20-inch circular needle
- A set of US 6 double pointed needles
Gauge
30 stitches and 14 rows = 3½ inches by 2⅛ inches in cable stitch pattern, using the larger needles
22 stitches = 3 inches in rib pattern (unstretched), using the smaller needles
Sizes
Baby (Adult)
To fit head circumference of 14–16 (20–23) inches
- Finished Circumference at Widest Point of Body: 10½ (13½) inches
- Finished Circumference at Ribbing: 9 (12) inches
- Finished Length: 8½ (12) inches
Notes
When knitting the body of the hat, I found it helpful to separate each repeat (30 stitches) of the cable pattern with a stitch marker. (Just be sure to use a different color marker for the end of the round!) Alternatively, you could knit the whole hat on double pointed needles and put each repeat on its own double pointed needle.
Abbreviations
Left Cross (LC): Slip 3 knit stitches to cable stitch holder and hold in front of work, p1 from left hand needle, k3 from cable stitch holder.
Right Cross (RC): Slip 1 purl stitch to cable stitch holder and hold in back of work, k3 from left hand needle, p1 from cable stitch holder.
Cable 6 Front (C6F): Slip 3 knit stitches to cable stitch holder and hold in front of work, k3 from left hand needle, k3 from cable stitch holder.
Cable 6 Back (C6B): Slip 3 knit stitches to cable stitch holder and hold in back of work, k3 from left hand needle, k3 from cable stitch holder.
Cable 4 Front (C4F): Slip 2 knit stitches to cable stitch holder and hold in front of work, k2 from left hand needle, k2 from cable stitch holder.
How to Make a Left Cross (LC)
When you get to a Left Cross (LC), you will have 3 knit stitches on the left hand needle.
Slip these three knit stitches purlwise to a cable stitch holder. (“Purlwise” means to insert the right needle into each stitch as if you were purling it.)
Keep the cable stitch holder at the front of the work.
Purl one stitch from the left hand needle.
Slide the slipped stitches to the other end of the cable needle. (Do not spin the cable needle or try to knit the stitches from the same end that you used to slip the stitches.) Now knit the 3 stitches from the cable stitch holder.
How to Make a Right Cross (RC)
Making the Right Cross is like making a Left Cross in reverse.
When you get to a Right Cross, you will have 1 purl stitch followed by 3 knit stitches on the left hand needle. You will…
Slip the purl stitch from the left hand needle onto a cable stitch holder; hold the cable stitch holder to the back of your work; knit the 3 stitches from the left hand needle; purl the stitch from the cable stitch holder.
Pattern
Ribbing
With smaller needle, cast on 63 (84) stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Place a marker and join to work in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Round 1: *P1, [k2, p2] 4 times, k3, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until ribbing measures 3 (4) inches from cast on edge.
Round 2: *Purl into front and back (pfb), [k1, Make 1 Right (m1R), k1, p2] 3 times, k1, m1r, k1, pfb, p1, k1, m1r, k1, m1r, k1, m1r, p1, repeat from * to end of round. [90 (120) stitches]
Body
Continuing with larger circular needle…
Round 1: *[P2, k3] 4 times, p3, k6, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 2: *[P2, LC, RC] 2 times, p3, C6F, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 3: *P3, [k6, p4] 2 times, k6, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 4: *P3, [C6F, p4] 2 times, k6, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 5: *P3, [k6, p4] 2 times, k6, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 6: *[P2, RC, LC] 2 times, p3, k6, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 7: *[P2, k3] 4 times, p3, k6, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 8: *P1, RC, p2, LC, RC, p2, LC, p2, C6F, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 9: *P1, k3, p4, k6, p4, k3, p2, k6, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 10: *P1, k3, p4, C6B, p4, k3, p2, k6, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 11: *P1, k3, p4, k6, p4, k3, p2, k6, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 12: *P1, [LC, p2, RC] 2 times, p2, k6, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 1–12 one (three) more time(s).
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 one more time.
The hat should now measure approximately 6 ¾ inches (10 ½ inches) from the cast on edge.
Crown Decreases
NOTE: Change to double pointed needles when the work becomes too tight to fit around the circular needle.
Round 1: *P3, k2, Slip Slip Knit (ssk), k2, p4, k2, ssk, k2, Purl 2 Together (p2tog), p2, k6, p1, repeat from * to end of round. [81 (108) stitches]
Round 2: *P3, k2, ssk, k1, p4, k2, ssk, k1, p3, k6, p1, repeat from * to end of round. [75 (100) stitches]
Round 3: *P3, k2, ssk, p4, k2, ssk, p3, k6, p1, repeat from * to end of round. [69 (92) stitches]
Round 4: *P1, p2tog, k2, ssk, p2, k2tog, k2, p2tog, p1, k6, p1, repeat from * to end of round. [57 (76) stitches]
Round 5: *P2, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, p2, k6, p1, repeat from * to end of round. [51 (68) stitches]
Round 6: *P2, k2, k2tog, k2, p2, C6F, p1, repeat from * to end of round. [48 (64) stitches]
Round 7: *P2tog, k1, k2tog, k2, p2, k1, [k2tog] 2 times, k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round. [36 (48) stitches]
Round 8: *P1, k2tog, k2, p2, k4, p1, repeat from * to end of round. [33 (44) stitches]
Round 9: *P1, k2tog, k1, p2, k4, p1, repeat from * to end of round. [30 (40) stitches]
Round 10: *K2tog, k1, p2, C4F, p1, repeat from * to end of round. [27 (36) stitches]
Round 11: *K1, ssk, k2tog, k2, ssk, repeat from * to end of round. [18 (24) stitches]
Round 12: [K2tog] 9 (12) times. [9 (12) stitches]
Cut yarn, leaving an 8-inch tail. Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle and sew it through the remaining stitches twice. Pull tight to close the hole at the crown. Bring the tail to the inside of the hat and weave it in. Weave in any remaining ends and enjoy your Traveling Cable Hat!
Hello,
I have DK weight wool and would like to use it to knit this hat in baby size. Should I make any adjustments to the pattern or increase the size of my needles to account for the lighter wool?
Thanks,
Jen
Hello Jen,
Thank you for reaching out! You will want to keep your knitted fabric dense so that your hat will keep its shape. The best thing to do at this point is to knit up a gauge swatch to see how many stitches per inch you are getting. This will help you determine how much you will need to adjust the pattern by. I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi Jen, I am planning on making a baby hat with DK weight wool too. Did you end up needing to make adjustments to the pattern/increase your needle size? Thanks!
love this pattern.. i have started it up however i don’t really like folded brims so how many inches would you suggest for the ribbing. would half be okay?
Hi Jade,
Thanks for reaching out! If you prefer not to fold up the brim, I would suggest knitting the ribbing to about 1.5 inches before beginning the cable pattern.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I noticed the link to the Alpaca Pure no longer exists and would love a breakdown of yard/oz for the adult pattern so I can get an idea of other yarn that could work.
Hello Michelle,
Thank you for reaching out! You will need approximately 109 (218) yards for this lovely pattern.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello,
I’ve started the hat and read ahead. It states the adult hat is 12 long. Does that include the ribbing or is it slouchy?
Thank you for the beautiful pattern ?
Hi Darlene,
Thanks for reaching out! Our finished measurements were taken with the ribbing folded up – before folding up the ribbing, the adult hat measures 16 inches long. This may be slightly slouchy on some heads, but you can adjust it by folding the brim less if you wish!
Best,
Julianna
I know this is an old comment but I’m confused by the 16” measurement. The pattern says the hat should be 10.5” long from the cast on edge at the end of the body section…but that would mean the crown decreases add 5.5” to the total length which doesn’t make sense. Is it actually 10.5” from the folded brim instead of the cast on edge or is the hat only 12” in total length?
Hi Erica,
Thanks for reaching out. The 16″ measurement includes the 4″ of ribbing, the 10.5″ inches of the body of the hat, and the approximately 1.5″ added by the crown decreases! Once you fold up the ribbing, the hat will measure 12″. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Am in the process of knitting this beautiful hat and have run into a small bump- row 12, when I count the pattern has 31 stitches and there are only 30 stitches to each repeat. Can you tell me where the error is. Thanks for your help.
Hi Camille,
Thanks for reaching out! Row 12 does add up to 30 stitches so it should work out! Each LC and RC takes up 4 stitches, so the total bracketed section is 10 stitches.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I love this pattern, but I’m so confused! How can I cast on 84 stitches, and then do a repeat that is 13 stitches long, to the end of the row? Or on the last repeat, you just don’t finish it all? Sounds weird, so please help me understand.
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out! The repeat for the ribbing is actually 21 stitches, which does divide evenly into 84. The ribbing row reads:
Round 1: *P1, [k2, p2] 4 times, k3, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
I think you might not be repeating the entire bracketed section 4 times. First you will p1, then [k2, p2] 4 times, working all four stitches each time, then k1, p1, and start all the way over from the asterisk.
I hope that helps clarify things!
Julianna
Hello: I have been experiencing a lot of problems with this pattern because the stitches counting doesn’t match at all. example,above it reads * P1[k2,p2] 4 times,k3,p1, repeat from* that gives a total of 24 stitches ,which gives a total of 96 and not 84. Even you marked wrong since you wrote after were it says 4 times in the pattern says k3 and not k1 like you wrote. For both patterns either adult and childrens the stitches count it doesn’t match the rounds counting for the design.
Hi Pastora,
Thank you for writing in! I’m sorry you are running into trouble knitting this pattern. I sometimes find it helpful to add stitch markers in between the repeats to help me better visualize each section separately. After working the *P1[k2,p2] 4 times,k3,p1*, you will have worked 21 stitches, this would be a great place to place your marker, and then work *P1[k2,p2] 4 times,k3,p1*, again, and place your marker. You will complete these steps 2 more times for the large size and once more for the small size. This will give you 63 (84) stitches with all of your sections separated by markers.
I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Has this yarn been discontinued? If so, could you please recommend an interesting substitute? Thanks!
Hello Pastille,
Thank you for reaching out! Yes, this yarn has been discontinued. I would recommend either Cashmere Tend or Worsted Twist.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I made the kid version in supersoft merino for a friend’s son. He loves it but has outgrown it. How would you knit the adult traveling cable hat in supersoft merino rather than a worsted yearn?
Thanks,
M
Hello Michelle,
Thank you for reaching out! So it’s a pleasure. Unfortunately, making this hat for a head size larger than 21 1/2 inches, in this yarn, is a little tricky and not a simple change to the pattern. We don’t have plans to add an adult size to this pattern at the moment, but I will keep it in mind for the future!
-Marilla
Hi, I ended up doing this pattern in a yarn with much smaller gauge than written down. My solution was to add two more repeats. My advice would be make a swatch in the pattern with your yarn and figure out how many repeats you need for the bigger version.
Hope that helps 🙂
I would love to knit this hat for a child. I saw you have a pattern for bulky yarn, but I quite like the thinner yarn look here. Do you have advice how I can fit this for a child? Thank you!
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for your question! For this lovely hat the difference in the adult size and the baby size is one cable repeat, so it would be hard to adjust the pattern for a size in between. You can try using a thinner yarn for the adult size (along with smaller needles) to get a hat that is in between. We will certainly keep your kind request for additional sizes in mind!
Best,
Cassy
Thank you! I may make this for an adult I know. It’s a beautiful pattern.
Hello, I’m having a little trouble understanding the decrease rounds. The first round of decreasing says to P3, k2, ssk, k2, p4, k2, ssk, k2, p2tog, p2, k6, p1 and that you should be left with 108 stitches by the end but I was left with 92. I added it up and you are decreasing each section of 30 by 7 stitches and it doesn’t add up. I’m very confused can you help me?
Thank you!
Hi Amanda,
I am happy to help clear things up! For the first decrease round, you will be decreasing 3 stitches for every 30 stitch section. The repeat on this round is “P3, k2, ssk, k2, p4, k2, ssk, k2, p2tog, p2, k6, p1.” I have put each decrease in bold and each of these decreases uses two stitches but reduces just by one. For example, with the ssk, you slip 2 stitches and knit them together creating one stitch from two and thus reducing by one stitch.
I also find that it is sometimes helpful to write out the full row to get an idea of where all of the decreases are. I will also bold all of the one stitch decreases here and hope that this helps!
P3, k2, ssk, k2, p4, k2, ssk, k2, p2tog, p2, k6, p1, p3, k2, ssk, k2, p4, k2, ssk, k2, p2tog, p2, k6, p1, p3, k2, ssk, k2, p4, k2, ssk, k2, p2tog, p2, k6, p1, p3, k2, ssk, k2, p4, k2, ssk, k2, p2tog, p2, k6, p1.
Best,
Cassy
I just finished this beautiful pattern in a bright pink yarn. I lined it with a pink ribbon fleece and sent to a friend going thru chemo. I told her how every twist and turn in this pattern symbolized her journey but a beautiful ending will be the result. Thank you for this free pattern.
I have made many adult traveling cable hats for friends and family, and am so sorry that the lovely Alpaca Pure yarn is no longer available. Cashmere Tend seems to also be unavailable in most colors (and is so much more expensive!) Are there any nice soft alpaca blend wools that would work with this hat? I tried Maxima and it was quite a bit less soft, as well as a much less bulky yarn. Not ideal. Thanks for any help!
Hi Jil,
Thanks for writing in, and I’m so sorry that Alpaca Pure is no longer available! I think you might be happy with using Season Alpaca held double as a substitute. It is also spun from super soft baby alpaca, and two strands of sport weight yarn should be about equivalent to an aran weight, though I would still recommend knitting a gauge swatch to make sure! If necessary, you can add a strand of Tussock to bulk up the yarn slightly. Another option would be our Worsted Twist. Merino yarn does feel a bit different from alpaca and has a bit more body, but it’s still very cozy, and it has a softer, loftier texture than Maxima.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi I’d like to download this as a pdf. Is that possible?
Thanks in advance.
cheers Mary
Hi Mary,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, absolutely! Our print function can be used both to print and create PDFs. If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi
I bought a skein of cashmere merino bloom to make the fluffy brioche hat and stumbled onto this pattern which is so beautiful. Do you think I could use it for this pattern? I have taken a look at the yarn specs and the suggested needles seem to be the same on the pattern as in the yarn description but different from those in the description of cashmere tend you suggest so am not sure if this is a good idea.
Thank you for your reply
Have a nice day
Lula
Hi Lula,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, Cashmere Merino Bloom is a much thinner yarn than the aran weight this pattern is written for. You are correct that the needles for the hat are the same size as those recommended on the label for Cashmere Merino Bloom, but we do intend for you to use a heavier weight yarn on smaller needles so that the cables turn out nice and dense and have crisp stitch definition, so you won’t be able to obtain the correct gauge or look using a thinner yarn. I would recommend sticking with the Fluffy Brioche Hat – it’s one of my favorite patterns, so I’m sure you will be happy with it!
Best,
Julianna
Could I start this lovely pattern with size 4 circular 16″ needles, bunching up the ribbing, then switch to size 6 double pointed ones, as I have those sizes already? I think Yarn Stories Fine Merino DK would work, and it’s machine washable.
Why is this style called a “travelling hat,” I wonder?
Hi Judy,
Great questions! Yes, a 16 inch needle would be fine – you could even use a 16″ US 6 needle for the main body of the hat if you prefer! These types of cables are called traveling cables because they travel across the surface of the fabric, rather than staying in columns like plain cables.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello!
I have a question about the decrease rounds.
Does “p2tog” mean: Purl 2 stitches together?
Thanks in advance for your reply and I love the pattern!
Hi Linsey,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, that is correct! You can find the meanings of all the abbreviations we use in our patterns in our Knitting Abbreviations + Terms directory, and tutorials for many of these stitches – including a p2tog – on our Knitting Tutorials page!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi
I did this lovely pattern but am confused as my twist section where it’s the single row looks different then yours and not sure what I did as I’ve looked back at the pattern and it’s exactly what it says to do but mine has longer gaps before it twists again
Hi Britney,
Thanks for reaching out! It’s hard to say what might have gone wrong without seeing your work. If you used a yarn that’s a slightly different weight or less bouncy than ours, it’s possible that the cables could look more relaxed, even if the cable twists are worked correctly. Please feel free to send us a picture of your cables at customerservice@purlsoho.com and we’ll be happy to take a look!
Best,
Julianna
Hi am I the only one having insane difficulty with this pattern? I don’t understand why the pattern set up in row one of the body is completely screwed up in row two. The instructions don’t match the setup. Why do I p2 k3 4 times only to do the LC/RC twice? Why then does it want me to do the C6F after two repeats of that when the setup for that section is still 2 more sections ahead? This makes no sense whatsoever
Hi Abby,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help and I think that I see the issue! Round 2 starts with *[P2, LC, RC] 2 times. This will mean that you will P2, LC, RC, P2, LC, RC. The p2 will use the first p2 from round 1 and then the LC and RC will use the K3, p2, k3, from round 1. You will then p2 again (using p2 from round 1) and the LC and RC will use the next K3, p2, k3 from round 1 leaving you will the k6, p1 from round 1 that you will use to C6F and then p1.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Hello! I wonder if you would recommend the long tail tubular cast on for this? I’ve given it a try but it’s tough to match it up with this particular ribbing pattern.
Hi Sarah,
Great question! While you can use a long tail tubular cast on for 2×2 ribbing by moving the stitches around as you knit the first row to match the ribbing pattern, I’m afraid it won’t work out for this pattern due to the k3, p2 that crosses over the end of each row. If you are up for some experimentation, you might be able to get around this by increasing a stitch in the first row to create the third knit stitch in each repeat!
I hope that helps, and please let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Thanks for the swift reply, Julianna!
Hi Friends @ PurlSoho,
Do you think that 2 skeins of Purl Soho Worsted Twist would be enough yarn for the adult version of this hat?
Thank you!
Hi Nancie,
Thanks for writing in! Two skeins of Worsted Twist should be plenty for an adult size!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi! I am almost done with this hat and began the decrease rounds and got stumped on row 4.
Where it says to k2tog, it lines up with a knit stitch and a purl stitch. In the end, the stitches line up so I don’t think I missed a stitch somewhere on the previous rows.
Can you k2tog a purl and knit stitch?
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes you can k2tog with a purl and knit stitch!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
If I want to knit this lovely pattern beanie size, how many repeats would I knit/when would I start the decreases?
Hi Elisabeth,
Thanks for reaching out! Our Adult size I would consider a “beanie size” so I would follow the written directions for that size!
All the best,
Gianna
I loved this yarn and have knitted two of these hats. Itching to knot another, which yarn would you recommend knitting this in since Alpaca Pure is discontinued?
Thanks :)!
Hi Enting,
Thanks for reaching out! In place of Alpaca Pure you could use any worsted/aran weight yarn! I would recommend Worsted Twist or Linen Quill Worsted!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi,
I came upon Plymouth Yarn Baby Alpaca Worsted. I thought I could substitute this yarn for this hat.
There are 204 yds in the 100g skein. Compared to the Alpaca pure, it is almost twice as much yards per weight. Is this a factor in how well this yarn would work? Does it indicate that the yarn is thinner? Perhaps holding the yarn double will be necessary?
Thanks for your advice.
Hi Natalie,
Thanks for reaching out again! I am not familiar with that yarn so I can’t advise on how it would feel or knit up in person. However, when a yarn is at that price point for 200+ yards the quality typically isn’t the best, and certainly not comparable to our quality of our yarns! But sometimes you can find a really great quality yarn at an inexpensive price! The best way to tell if this yarn would work is to order a skein and work up a few swatches with it to see how it feels and knits and if it would be a good substitute for Alpaca Pure in this pattern.
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Gianna
Beautiful hat and it knits up beautifully. I’ve scanned through the pattern twice, but don’t seem to find where it says how many pattern repeats of 12 rounds I should knit before starting the decreases.
I’m also thinking of knitting the child size. How many repats of the rounds should I make.
Thanks,
Hi Liz,
Thanks you for reaching out! You will work rounds 1-12 and then Repeat Rounds 1–12 either one or (three) more time(s) depending on which size you are making! You can find these instructions in the BODY section of the pattern!
All the best,
Gianna
I’m a big fan of the Anzula for Better or Worsted Yarn. Do you think that would work well for this hat? If so, do you know how many skeins I would need for an adult sized hat?
Hi Tamar,
Thanks for reaching out! Anzula For Better or Worsted would be a great option for this hat! For the adult size 2 skeins should be plenty. Also, I always suggest working a gauge swatch when changing yarn from the original pattern to insure you are consistent with the written gauge!
Warmly,
Gianna
Bonjour!
Is the cable pattern for this hat available in a diagram form (grid with symbols for the C6F, C6B, etc.).
I find diagrams easier to follow.
Thank you.
LC
Hi LC,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we don’t offer this pattern as a chart, we only have the written instructions but thank you for expressing your interest!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello! I have really enjoyed knitting the traveling cable! I am at the point when I need to begin the crown decreases -Round 1 starts with P3. I have 2 purl stitches at the beginning of this round. This worked for me as I was going from Round 12 to Round 1 – repeating the Body portion of the pattern. Should I forge ahead with P3?
Hi Robin,
Thanks for reaching out! Did you adjust the cast on or change the pattern at all in the beginning? If so this may be a bit of a problem going into the decrease rounds. I recommend continuing with the pattern as written (Purling 3) and if you are having any issues with the stitch pattern please let us know!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi! I just wanted to say that I absolutely loved this pattern. It was the first hat I’ve made in a while and my first fancy cable thing. I used a self-striping yarn. I know I’ll come back to this pattern again in the future. Thank you for sharing! Brought me loads of joy in 2021! 🙂
Hi Aurora,
Thanks for reaching out! I am so glad to hear that you enjoyed this pattern! That yarn sounds so fun as well!
We would love to see your finished work, feel free to tag us on instagram using the hashtag #Purlsohobusyhands
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi! I’m so bummed- I think this is going to be too small for me. I’ve started a couple of times and it looks too little. My head is 23 1/2″. Would someone be kind enough to help adjust the pattern for a larger size? I don’t mind if it’s a little bigger than that even- better too big than too small! I would be very grateful because this is so beautiful. Thank you!
Hi Meredith,
Thanks for reaching out! Luckily since this hat has a rib/cable pattern it will actually be much more stretchy than it appears! The adult size should comfortably stretch to fit a 20-23″ circumference, so even though it may look too small it will stretch out quite a bit and should actually fit quite comfortably on a 23 1/2″ head! You can even get a little more stretch out of the hat by blocking it once you have finished. I think this would be a better solution to re-sizing the hat since it would be quite complicated with the cable pattern!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
I see in your class that Worsted Twist is recommended. Would you still use size 5 and 6 needles or go up a size?
Hi Julie,
Thanks for reaching out! Worsted Twist would work well, but it is a bit thinner than the original Alpaca Pure so you may need to adjust your needle slightly. We now have a lovely new yarn, Plenty, that is a very close match to Alpaca Pure and should work with the pattern as written! I would suggest starting off by working a gauge swatch, with either yarn, to ensure you are consistent with the pattern.
I hope this helps!
Gianna
I’ve restarted this pattern a couple of times because I can’t seem to get the gauge right. I’m using an Aran weight wool and size 6 needles for the ribbing and it’s still too small (un-stretched I’m getting 27 stitches to 4 inches). Should I be using a heavier wool? Or go up a couple more needle sizes?
Hi Gill,
Thanks for writing in! The yarn you are using sounds like the perfect weight for this project (we also used an Aran weight!) And actually, since this is an older pattern of ours the gauge as it is now is a bit wonky… The ribbing over 4″ would be about 29 stitches, so if you are getting 27 you are very close! We also measure our gauge from the samples once they are blocked, so I would suggest blocking your swatch to see if you can get the gauge to match then!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Thank you Gianna!
I’m so sorry, I just realized that I said 4” but I actually meant 3”. So I’m getting 27 stitches to 3”. Is that close enough that I could fix it in blocking or should I go up another needle size?
Hi Gill,
Thanks for your response! I would still try blocking first before adjusting the needle size.
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Hello. I love this pattern and its the best i’ve ever seen. Im a beginner to knitting and use videos to help me make hats. Is there a video recording of this hat being made? Thank you so much.
Hi Kay,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! We don’t have a video of this hat being made, but we do have tutorials for several of the techniques used! Each technique is highlighted in pink in the pattern, and if you click that it will take you directly to the associated tutorial! You can also find our whole selection of tutorials here: Knitting Tutorials
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I’m starting to make this lovely hat for a great niece who’ll be going off to college and needs to keep warm while walking around campus. I’m using a merino and plan to adorn it with a fur pompom. In checking gauge, I needed to go down to a size 4 needle on the rib pattern to reach gauge. I believe I’ve followed the pattern correctly to determine the adult size. I cast on 84 stitches. It just looks so small. The ribbing is 13” in circumference. I know it will stretch, but I am making the adult version, right?
Hi Karen,
Thanks for writing in. Yes, you’re definitely on track to make the adult version of this hat, with 84 stitches! The ribbing should indeed look quite smaller than expected, as it will stretch significantly when the hat is worn. I hope this helps clear things up!
All the best,
Lili
Want to make a hat using up some Jade Sapphire 8 ply cashmere. Would you recommend the Traveling Cable Hat?
Hi Jeanne!
Thank you for asking. This would be a perfect yarn to knit with Jade Sapphire’s 8-ply Cashmere! As always, we recommend making a gauge swatch to double check that everything will turn out as intended, especially when substituting yarns. If that seems daunting, we have a handy tutorial to reference called All About Gauge with tips for each step of the process!
All the best,
Margaret
I have some beautiful Partridge yarn I’d like to use for a cabled hat. I have 3.5 skeins left. Would it work for the pattern? Or is there another pattern I should consider instead
Hi Amy,
Thanks for reaching out. Partridge would be perfect for this hat, and 3.5 skeins is more than enough! I’d just recommend knitting up a gauge swatch in pattern before beginning to determine the best needles to use with the yarn. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I wanted to use the body of this hat on the 1898 hat brim (super popular pattern from the Seaman’s Institute) That pattern uses a Size 7 needle, would you change to a size 6 when I start the body or could I stick with a size 7?
Thanks!!
Hi Emily,
I just looked up the pattern you mentioned, and it looks really interesting! You can absolutely add on body of the Traveling Cable Hat to the brim of the other one. I’d recommend sticking with the needle size you need to achieve the gauge of each pattern, for their respective sections! One other small modification I’d recommend is making the body of the hat shorter. The pattern for the brim looks pretty wide, so it’ll take up a lot of height when worn. To avoid the hat ending up too tall and pointy, you can omit some of the cable pattern repeats.
We’d love to see how your hat turns out eventually!
All the best,
Lili
I am doing the adult hat 84 sts and having problems with the setup round to 120 sts. I can never get to 120 stitches. I don’t have enough sts at the end to complete the full repeat. I can do the first part but not the k1, m1r, k1, m1r, k1,m1r,p1. Is there something that I’m doing wrong? Because I’ve counted numerous times before I’ve started and I’ve got the correct number of sts.
Hi Stephanie,
I am so sorry you are hitting a roadblock in the pattern but we are determined to get you back on track! It’s a little hard to tell over comments exactly what the issue might be but I have a few suggestions that will hopefully help! First, are you repeating the first bracketed [k1, Make 1 Right (m1R), k1, p2] section three times total? Occasionally this gets read as ‘3 more times’!
Another thing you can try that I always find helpful is to mark off each stitch in the pattern as you knit it. I like to do this with pencil to make sure I stay in line each time a stitch is knit and I can erase when I am ready to repeat.
I hope this helps but if you have any other questions, please let us know. We are also always available at customerservice@purlsoho.com
Happy knitting,
Gavriella