I can think of nothing more elegant than a wrap to protect from air conditioner blasts and chilly nights, but the reality of wearing an ungainly rectangle can be a struggle. I have tried to arrange many a wrap so that it won’t slip off my shoulders or get tangled in the straps of my purse, and every time I think to myself, there must be a better way!
My Prewrapped Wrap was born from this conundrum. A simple rectangle shape with two corners removed, I then sewed two seams to create surprisingly flattering armholes. The effect is loose and versatile, like a wrap, but organized and simple, like a cardigan!
This richly textured, warm weather fabric is actually a three-yarn concoction: A gorgeous sheen and burst of color from Habu’s Linen Wrapped Silk; a matte, delightfully bumpy feel from Habu’s Cotton Nerimaki Slub; and a soft, woolly bloom from Purl Soho’s Line Weight.
Finally, a wrap that is not a struggle, but a joy to wear! -Gina
Purl Soho’s Yarn for Prewrapped Wrap kit includes…
- 3 cones of Habu Textiles’ Linen Wrapped Silk, 99% silk, 1% linen, in the color Salmon N-97-8
- 6 cones of Habu Textiles’ Cotton Nerimaki Slub, 100% cotton, in the color Undyed 45-1
- 2 skeins of Purl Soho’s Line Weight, 100% merino wool, in the color Ballet Pink
You’ll also need…
- For the Body: A US #7 circular or straight knitting needle. (I used a 20-inch circular needle; a 24 or 32-inch circular needle would work just as well.)
- For the Ribbing: A US #6, 24-inch or longer circular needle.
20 stitches x 30 rows = 4 x 4 inches in stockinette stitch, using the larger needle
19 stitches x 36 rows = 4 x 4 inches in 2 x 2 rib, using the smaller needle
One size fits chest measurements from 30 to 44 inches in circumference.
- Finished length from bottom hem to top of shoulder: 23 inches
- Finished width across chest, measurement taken with wrap lying flat: 23 inches
- Finished armhole circumference: 14 1/2 inches
- You will knit this entire pattern holding together one strand of all three yarns.
- Because this wrap is in reverse stockinette, the purl side of the fabric is the “right side”. Throughout the pattern I will refer to the sides of the fabric as the “knit side” and the “purl side” to avoid confusion.
Using the larger needles, cast on 75 stitches.
Row 1: Purl.
Row 2: Knit.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 23 inches from the cast on edge, ending with a purl row.
Row 1 (knit side): Knit. Turn work. Cable cast on 35 stitches. [110 stitches]
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: Knit.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until piece measures 39 inches from original cast on edge, ending with a knit row.
Row 4 (purl side): Bind off 35 stitches, purl to end. [75 stitches]
Working these 75 stitches…
Row 1 (knit side): Knit.
Row 2: Purl.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 62 inches from original cast on edge, ending with a knit row.
With the purl side facing you, bind off loosely until you have 1 stitch remaining on the right hand needle and no stitches on the left hand needle. Do not cut the yarns.
Turn the piece so that it is oriented like the picture above, with the long edge at the top and the purl side facing you. The remaining stitch from the bind off will be at the top right corner. Transfer this stitch to the smaller needle. Starting at point A (shown above) and ending at point B, pick up 241 stitches (2 stitches for every 3 rows). [242 stitches total]
Now working these 242 stitches…
Row 1 (knit side): *P2, k2, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2.
Row 2: *K2, p2, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until ribbing measures 2 ½ inches.
Bind off loosely in pattern.
Center Back Ribbing
Turn the piece so it is oriented like the picture above, with the long ribbed edge at the bottom and the purl side facing you. With the smaller needles, starting at point C and ending at point D (shown above), pick up 64 stitches.
Now working these 64 stitches…
Row 1 (knit side): P3, *k2, p2, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k2, p3.
Row 2: K3, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p2, k3.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until ribbing measures 1 1/2 inches.
Bind off loosely in pattern.
Sew Side Seams
Turn the piece once more so that the long side is at the top and the purl side is facing you. With the knit sides facing each other, fold point E to point E (shown above). Use a removable stitch marker, a safety pin or some scrap yarn to secure together the two points E.
Thread a tapestry needle with a 16-inch length of all three yarns. Insert the needle through both of the two points marked F (above), joining point F to point F.
Using Mattress Stitch, stitch the seam towards points E. Stop sewing when point E is joined to point E.
NOTE: Because you are joining a selvedge edge to a cast on edge, the number of horizontal bars on each side of the seam will not necessarily be the same. Make sure that you frequently check that the two sides of the seam are progressing evenly and will end simultaneously at points E.
You have just made the left armhole! Your work will look like this:
Repeat the same process on the right side: Secure points E, join point F to point F, and sew until you have reached points E.
Now, weave in the ends and block your Prewrapped Wrap!