Boyfriend Hat
In Levis, flannel button downs, canvas sneakers, and grandpa cardigans, a friend of mine and I used to laugh that rather than dressing for the boys we wished we were dating, we dressed like the boys we wished we were dating. And the funniest part was that despite our different taste in men, somehow our fantasies of their wardrobes were identical. Some things are for the everyman and, as it turns out, for the everywoman too.
I designed the Boyfriend Hat with the versatility of any timeless article of clothing. Man or woman, wear it slouchy or cuffed. Pull it down taut or let it hover above the ears. Cuff it twice for a Wes Anderson style watchman cap.
Knit up with two different colored strands of Purl Soho’s Line Weight merino, the effect is gently marled and toasty warm. In a tight 1 x 1 rib, this hat is also exceptionally elastic and durable, hugging the head and feeling decadently soft, even through winter’s wear and tear.
The Boyfriend Hat is the hat you wish he had so you could steal it from him. Or is it the hat you have that he wants to steal from you? I don’t know… Just make two. -Laura
Update: New Colors
October 2014
To celebrate Line Weight’s newest colors we made a fall 2014 set of Boyfriend Hats, this time in the rich and spicy colors of the season! For the full story, additional pictures and all the yarn details, just click here!
Update: New Style + Sizes
September 2020
We’re revisiting the classic details of our beloved Boyfriend Hat with expanded sizing and a new color motif. Our Best Friend Hat is the perfect accessory for you and your friend circle! View the updated pattern and color combinations by clicking here!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoBoyfreindHat, and #PurlSohoLineWeight. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 2 skeins of Purl Soho’s Line Weight, 100% merino. Each skein is 494 yards/ 100 grams.
- Yarn A: 1 skein; approximately 235 (265, 305, 355) yards required. We used the color Heirloom White.
- Yarn B: 1 skein; approximately 235 (265, 305, 355) yards required. We used the color Toasted Charcoal for the Adult Small and Oyster Gray for the Adult Medium.
- A US 3 (3.25 mm), 16-inch circular needle
- A set of US 3Â double pointed needles
- Stitch markerss, including one unique
NOTE: If you are making a solid color hat (using two strands of a single color) rather than a marled hat (using a strand of two different colors), you’ll need 1 (2, 2, 2) total skeins of Purl Soho’s Line Weight.
Gauge
39 stitches and 34 rows = 4 inches in 1 x 1 rib with yarn doubled, unstretched
Sizes
Adult Small (Adult Medium, Adult Large, Adult Extra Large)
- Finished Circumference: 14¾ (16½, 18, 19¾) inches, un-stretched, comfortably stretching to approximately 19¾ (21½, 23, 24¾) inches
- Finished Height: 9½ (9¾, 10, 10¼) inches
Pattern
Begin
With one strand of Yarn A and one strand of Yarn B, cast 144 (160, 176, 192) stitches onto the circular needle. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On. Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist stitches.
Round 1: *K1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 8 inches from cast on edge.
Shape Top of Hat
NOTE: Switch to double pointed needles when necessary.
Set-Up Round: [Work 36 (40, 44, 48) stitches in established 1 x 1 rib pattern, place marker] three times, work in established pattern to end of round.
Round 1: *[K1, p1] four times, k1, k2tog, work in established pattern to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, repeat from * to end of round. [8 stitches decreased]
Round 2: *[K1, p1] four times, k1, p2tog, work in established pattern to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog tbl, repeat from * to end of round. [8 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 five (six, seven, eight) more times. [48 stitches]
Next Round: *Ssk, [k1, p1] two times, k1, k2tog, p1, k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round. [40 stitches]
Next Round: *Ssk, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, p1, k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round. [32 stitches]
Next Round: *Ssk, k1, k2tog, p1, k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round. [24 stitches]
Finish Hat
Cut yarns and thread them onto a tapestry needle. Draw the needle through the remaining stitches. Pull tight and bring tails to inside of hat to weave in.
Weave in remaining tails and block as desired.
On the ssk tutorial, it says to slip the first stitch knit wise and the second purl wise, but she was doing this on only knitted stitches. Should we still slip knit and then slip purl even though we are working a ribbed pattern? Also, on the p2togtbl tutorial, it says to slip both knitwise first and then slip them back on. Are we slipping them back on from right needle to left needle purl wise then? Again she was doing it on only knitted stitches so does it still hold true for the ribbed pattern? Thank you. I am learning!
Hi Kay.
Laura here. Wrote the pattern and also “starred” in those knitting tutorial videos as well!
For the ssk… I was consistent with my method from stockinette to ribbing. I slip the first knitwise and the second purlwise. There are several ways to do an ssk though and if you find something more suitable for a 1 x 1 rib, I say go for it!
As for the k2tog. Yes, you slip them back over to the left needle purlwise. I do it the same on stockinette or ribbing, but that’s just me.
Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any additional questions!
Laura
One more question, when it says to k1 p1 four times and then decrease, does this mean k1 p1 k1 p1 then decrease, or is [k1 p1] considered ONE, for example: k1 p1, k1 p1, k1 p1, k1 p1, then decrease?
Hi Kay.
Great question…
So Round 1 starts off with: [K1, p1] four times, k1, k2tog…
What this means is you will do everything within the brackets 4 times, so… k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1… working 8 stitches total.
Oh and don’t forget there is another k1 before the k2tog. In your comment is sounded as if perhaps you may have overlooked that.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
I found that it helped to place a marker just at the end of the 9 stitches so I would not forget to decrease each repeat of the pattern . Once you get going doing the knit one purl one is it easy to forget to do the decrease especially if you are a quick knitter and don’t have to look at your knitting at the time.
Putting the marker after the 9th stitch made all the difference for me. Great suggestion
Just wondering, I want to make this hat using the Clementine Orange color. What would make a good second yarn to blend with Clementine Orange for this hat? Thanks!
Hi Sydney.
I love pairing the hats with white. You can see a variety of them knit up here:
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2014/11/28/purl-soho-goods/
No orange, but a lot of other bright colors all paired with white.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
I too would love to know what cast on method is used for this awesome hat. Is it a ‘tubular’ cast on?
Thanks so much…
I found Purl Bee yesterday on Pinterest and I’m already in loooooove…
Hi Holly!
I’m so thrilled to hear you found us and are enjoying the site!
For the original hats (the two gray ones) I used a long tail cast on: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2014/02/02/lauras-loop-the-boyfriend-hat/
For the new versions (the green and red and yellow) we used a tubular cast on: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2014/10/24/the-boyfriend-hat-in-line-weights-newest-colors/
I definitely recommend the tubular cast on. I love it and use it whenever possible. Gina made a great tutorial that you can find here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2014/10/21/long-tail-tubular-cast-on-tutorial/
Hope this helps!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
hi there!
I love this pattern! Any idea how long it takes to whip up?
Hi Chithra.
Oh goodness, this is always a tough one to answer. It really depends on how quickly you know and if you mind purling or not. Since the entire thing is ribbed, it take far longer than an entirely stockinette or knit hat would take. Sorry I can’t give you a quantity of time. It just ranges so much.
Maybe some of our other readers / commenters / knitters could weigh in on this?!?!?!
Laura
I’ve been making a couple of these hats and find that in a half distracted state I can knit about an inch of the body (working the womens medium/large) in the same time it takes to watch a film. The shaping goes quite quickly as you really start to notice having fewer stitches, but I found I needed to take things a bit slower than usual to make sure that I was always getting both strands of wool in each stitch.
Hi! Absolutely love the look of this pattern but as I don’t usually knit I was just wondering how you create the marled effect?? Thanks!
Hi Em-
The marled effect in this hat is created simply by knitting two yarns together at the same time, as if they were one strand. The more different in color the two yarns are the more pronounced the effect.
Thanks so much for writing in!
Best-
Molly
Hey there! I’ve never knitted with 2 yarns at once before and they’re getting super twisted even just as I’m casting on. Is this okay? Or is there a good way to keep them untwisted? Thanks so much!
Hi Samantha.
That’s a great question!
Sometimes the two strands will get coiled a bit, but not excessively. If you want to untwist them, you can hold the strands so that your work is dangling below, in the air, the work should naturally begin to unwind itself. Sometimes, if you keep the skeins in separate pouches or bags within your project bag, it will help prevent unnecessary twisting and coiling.
Thanks for writing in and let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
Hi there,
I am curious as to how much of the skein you have left after a complete knitted hat (of course this depends on the size of the hat knitted). Do you think it is possible to knit two large mens hats with 2 skeins total (one in each color)?
Best,
A
Hi Allison.
I don’t think you’re going to make it with just 2 skeins. I would say you’d be fine if you were making 1 Men’s Large + 1 of the smallest size, but you’ll probably go over with only 2 skeins if you’re making 2 Men’s Larges. I know the Women’s Medium/Men’s Small required approximately 420 total yards.
If you know the recipients aren’t going to cuff the hats, you could work the body a bit less maybe?
Hope this helps.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
Hi there!
Does the first stitch of every round have to be a K? I’ve done one round and found that to keep it from being seed stitch I need to start on a P. Did I miss a stitch or is this okay?
Hi Samantha.
I think you may have gotten off pattern at some point. You should being each round (excluding the last three rounds) by knitting a stitch. If this is creating a seed stitch type pattern, then something strange must have happened along the way! Let me know if you have any questions or need help getting back on track.
Laura
I cast this on yesterday and am only a couple rows in, but a note for other people doing the men’s large – it is a TIGHT squeeze on 16″ circular needles! I’m having to work at the very tips of my needles and worried that I’m going to drop some every time I shift stitches around. I’ll probably switch over and do the whole thing on double pointed needles.
Same here! I worked about 5 rows and transferred my stitches onto longer circular needles to check the circumference, and it was GIGANTIC. The circumference seemed to be twice what it needed to be. I don’t think I knit particularly loosely to be causing such a problem, but I don’t know how to fix this. I really want to make this hat for my boyfriend but I can’t seem to get it right.
Hi Ashley.
I’m so sorry about this.
Did you make a swatch and block it before casting on? What size needles are you on? Did you substitute the yarns at all? Are you pulling two strands of Line Weight or just one? The hat is knit quite densely to really hug the head. One by one ribbing stretches out so much, it shouldn’t be so big. I would love to help you get you on track with this pattern. It’s one of my favorites.I’d love for it to work for you!
Please let me know how I can help.
Thanks.
Laura
How much yarn do you actually use to make one hat? I am buying Sublime Merino wool yarn and need to know how many skeins I need for one hat. Thanks!
Hi Megan.
I used approximately 420 yards of Line Weight for the Women’s Medium/Men’s Small. Unfortunately I do not have the yardage requirements for the other sizes at this moment. The 420 yards for the Women’s Medium/Men’s Small means 210 yards of each color of fingering weight yarn.
If you are going to use Sublime’s Extrafine Merino Lace (http://sublimeyarns.com/yarns/yarn-sample-7-3/) and pull two strand or Extrafine Merino DK (http://sublimeyarns.com/yarns/yarn-sample-2/) and pull just a single strand?
If you’re pulling two strands of the Lace, you’ll need 2 total skeins: one skein of each color or 2 skeins even if you’re doing it with two strands of the same color.
If you’re pulling a single strand of the DK, you’ll need 2 skeins, giving you 254 total yards.
I hope this helps.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Laura
Hi Laura,
I was wanting to make two matching hats, do you think that 2 skeins total would be enough for the women’s medium and a men’s medium hat?
Thanks,
Sarah
Hi Sarah.
I think 2 skeins for a Women’s Medium and a Men’s Medium is going to be a close one. I think it may be ok, but tight. It depends on your gauge. Some people have been getting the same gauge as me, but using more yarn than I did and some have been using less.
I used approximately 420 yards of Line Weight (210 yards of each color) for the Women’s Medium/Men’s Small. If you use the same amount of yarn as I did for the Women’s Medium, then you’ll be ok making both. But if you use 10 percent more than I did, which can happen, you’ll need more yarn to be able to complete the second hat.
I hope this helps. I’m sorry it’s not more cut and dry. I would hate for you to over buy, but I’d really hate for you to run out of yarn!
Laura
Laura,
Thank you, your answer confirmed what I had been thinking. Thanks for the input!
Sarah
Hi,
Nice pattern. Could you tell us how to make it with straight needles?
Thanks,
Eva
Hi Eva-
We don’t have plans to write a version of this pattern that uses straight needles since, unfortunately, it’s not a quick or simple conversion. But we do have a great double pointed needle tutorial that might help you along if you want to knit this in the round: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/07/25/double-pointed-needles/
And we’re always happy to help out if you have a question about the pattern as you go.
Thanks for getting in touch!
Molly
I just made this hat and love it. I made it with wool yarn and am not getting the tight fit that I thought I would. If I want a stretchy hat that fits snug to the head do I need to change to a different pattern or yarn? Thanks for your help.
Hi Jane-
It sounds like either your gauge was a little off or you should knit a smaller size.
If you measure your gauge and you are getting less than 9 3/4 stitches per inch in the rib pattern your hat will end up a bit big. If this is the case, next time try smaller needles or smaller yarn to get the correct gauge. Also, make sure to do a gauge swatch before you get started on the hat.
If you are getting the correct gauge and it still isn’t fitting right then I would recommend knitting the next size smaller.
Please let us know if you have any more questions!
Molly
I am making this great hat now and have just begun the decrease rounds and i’m having trouble doing the P2tog tbl. I’ve tried it a few ways and I still don’t like it. can I just do K2tog all the rounds? Will it look right if I do ? Help!
Thanks
Sheri
Hi Sheri.
Thanks for writing in.
If you substitute all of the decreases with K2tog, the top of the hat is going to have a very different look.
Rather than p2tog tbl, maybe try just p2tog? Or if you don’t like doing any of the decreases purlwise, then you could do all the decreases knitwise, using both k2tog and ssk.
Please let us know if you have any questions.
Laura
I just made this hat and broke every rule but that’s okay because great patterns can do anything. Instead of 8″, I knit the rib pattern to 5 1/2″ and then decreased so it’s snugger fitting. I also used a DK yarn and 4mm needles. I know, everything’s wrong but it still came out perfectly. I love Purl Bee, yes I do!
Hi!
I just finished making this hat in men’s large and it turned out much much larger than expected. How do I fix it? It is about 22 in. in circumference unstretched and I need it about 20 in. Thanks.
Hi Megan.
First off… congrats on finishing the hat!
Secondly, the size… I’m not quite sure what to say. You could run some elastic thread through the bottom edge of the hat to see if that pulls it in any. Although you’ll probably see the elastic when the hat’s being worn. You could try and felt it down to size, but of course this will drastically change the characteristics of the hat.
Hats are tough because you really want them to have a snug fit so they don’t fall off. Is starting over out of the question?
Thanks for writing in and please let us know if you have any questions.
Laura
Hello! Question for you: I am at first decrease round and am stuck. I am withib the first bracket and just did the first ssk. Now I am supposed to start the k1,p1 over again but my first stitch after the ssk is a purled stitch. Is that right? I don’t want to get too far ahead and have to undo much. Help! Please! Thanks! =)
Hi Lindsay.
Happy to help! I’m glad you wrote in.
For Round 1… you K1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, then you k1 (don’t forget this k1, forgetting it will get you off pattern), then you k2tog, then you continue in the established pattern (knitting the knit stitches and purling the purl stitches) until you have 2 unworked stitches before the next marker, then you ssk… (I think this is where you are)… at this point you start back at the very beginning, at that asterisk (so yes, that first stitch should be a k1) and do it all over again….[K1, p1] four times, k1, k2tog, work in established pattern to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk… and at this point, once again, you start back at the beginning again, at the asterisk. Do those same steps again and then repeat it for a last (forth) time.
I hope this helps!
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Laura
Hi there, I have started to make this hat, although I only have some standard dk yarn, will this make a difference to the size of the hat?
I have never worked with magic loop needles before, so am wondering if it is normal for the hat to seem big at first, and whether it will tighten up as I continue knitting? Or should I abort mission andante exactly the same wool as suggested?
Thank you…
Bee
Hi Bee.
You can definitely substitute the two strands of Line Weight for a single strand of a DK weight yarn.
Have you measured your gauge since you started the project? Are you getting 39 stitches to 4 inches? It sounds like your gauge may not be quite right, if that hat looks big. Although it is hard to tell in the photos, this rib at that gauge makes a fairly dense fabric.
I do love using two strands of a thin fingering weight yarn for this project, it adds extra elasticity. But maybe you could give it one more try with the yarn you already have, if you like it and want to use it.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
Hey there! If my guage is 9 stitches per inch across on size 3 needles do I need to go up or down in size needles? I checked my gauge on size 2 dpn’s and I’m still getting 9 stitches per inch across. Any recommendations?
Hi Joy.
I cannot imagine it would be comfortable to knit this on a US1, so I am hesitant to tell you to drop down in needle size even more, but it does sound like you may need to.
How large a swatch are you working up? Sometimes you have to make a big swatch to get a true gauge, at least 4 inches x 4 inches. Are you getting 9 stitches to the inch after blocking your swatch or before? Are you typically a loose knitter? I’m sorry for all of the questions. Are you using Line Weight or another yarn. Line Weight is a very thin fingering weight yarn, so perhaps if you’ve substituted the yarn, it’s not quite a perfect match.
I know it’s hard to tell in photos, but the rib at the gauge given creates a fairly dense fabric. Hats tend to grow and bloom and loosen a bit over time and so I wanted to ensure it would be snug at first wear. But, if you can’t get gauge, and you’re happy with the fabric you’re creating, have you thought of making the next size smaller?
144 (160, 176, 192) stitches at 9 stitches to the inch would mean a circumference of… 16 (17 3/4, 19 1/2, 21 1/3) inches. These will stretch to fit a head approximately 3 inches larger.
Let me know if I can help trouble shoot with you more! I would love to get your on your way with this project!
Laura
Also I am using 2 strands of fingering weight yarn, being a beginner in knitting, I cannot bring myself to buy your beautiful yarn, only to mess up horribly and end up frogging the whole project, and designating high quality yarn to the yarn scrap pile. I want to make sure I can do the pattern correctly first.
Hi Joy.
Makes sense to me!!
Let me know if you have any questions along the way.
Laura
hello how to decreasse this hat ..cast one 80 sts? thanks
Hi Gina.
For an 80-stitches cast on…
You’d work Rounds 1 and 2 a total of 3 times.[32 stitches]
Then, Next Round: *Ssk, k1, k2tog, p1, k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round. [24 stitches]
Then, cut yarns and thread them onto a tapestry needle. Draw the needle through the remaining stitches. Pull tight and bring tails to inside of hat to weave in.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
I haven’t started the hat yet, but do you think a superfine yarn that is mostly acrylic will produce the same results?
Hey Jillian.
Thanks for writing in.
If the yarn is really fine, you may have have to use 3 strands to achieve the same gauge. But I think, other than that, yes, you should be able to make the yarn work with this pattern!
Laura
Hi, I’m having trouble on the first decrease row. I can’t figure out what I’m doing wrong because after the k1p1 4x k1 k2tog I am left on a purl. Do I purl that and then continue with the decrease pattern? Or perhaps I am k2tog wrong. Thanks for the help! Love this hat so far 🙂
Hi Bee.
I’m glad you wrote in.
To answer your question… yes, you’re going to purl that next stitch. When it says to work in established pattern, that just means to continue the rib, knitting the knit stitches and purling the purl stitches. You are correct to have landed on a purl stitch after that k2tog and so just purl that stitch and then continue ribbing until you’re 2 stitches before the next marker.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Laura
I’m using a different weighted yarn and a different needle size so my number of stitches is not the same. I cast on 100 stitches but now am not sure how to shape the top of the hat with the shown pattern. Please help!
Hi Jacki.
Thanks for writing in.
The shaping of this hat is fairly specific to the cast on numbers.
A cast on of 100 stitches is a little complicated because 100 divided by 4 is an odd number.
If you can sneak in 2 double decreases and get your stitch count down to 96, then, at that point….
Set-Up Round: [work 24 stitches in established 1 x 1 rib pattern, place marker] three times, work in established pattern to end of round.
Then you’ll repeat Rounds 1 and 2 for a total of three times. [48 stitches]
Then you can follow the remainder of the pattern (the three rounds starting “Next Round”) to finish the hat!
Hope this helps!
Let me know if you have any questions.
Laura
could you please tell me the colors of yarn that was used to create the darker marble boyfriends hat ….
and also, if I am going to purchase the deep purple what would be a pretty color to marble it with
thank you so much
Hi Laura.
The darker of the two samples knit up is made up of one strand of Heirloom White and one strand of Toasted Charcoal.
I love the look of the marled fabric when it’s one color + a white, so I would suggest using Heirloom White with the Gray Fig. BUT if you wanted something more tonal, maybe try combining the Gray Fig with Storm Gray or Toasted Charcoal!
Let us know how it goes!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Hi, I have two skeins of Brooklyn Tweed loft. Do you think this would work well for this project. I really love this pattern.
Thanks!
Hi Amelia.
I think Brooklyn Tweed’s Loft would be great for this pattern. It’s a teeny bit thicker / loftier than the yarn I used, so just be sure to swatch first and get on the right needles and make sure you are getting the right gauge, etc.
Thanks for writing in.
Enjoy your Boyfriend Hat!
Laura
Hello Laura,
I’ve just counted my stitches after 4″ of R1xR1 and noticed I’m 4 stitches short for a ladies small!
I’m hoping you can help me out with a decrease method for this hat. I’m not concerned about the size , just an even decrease when I’m ready.
I’m loving this hat so far in BlueSky Alpaca.
Thanks, Janet
Hi Janet.
I’m glad you’re loving the hat!
So you have 140 stitches rather than 144… Let’s see… I think I’d decrease 4 stitches before the set-up round, so…
Your Set-Up Round: Work 9 stitches in established 1 x 1 rib pattern, k2tog, work 25 stitches in established rib pattern, place marker, work 32 stitches in established pattern, ssk, place marker, work 9 stitches in established rib pattern, k2tog, work 25 stitches in established rib pattern, place marker, work in established pattern to last two stitches, ssk. [136 stitches decreased]
Now, since you’ve decreased in 4 of the 8 decrease points already, your decrease rounds will differ from those in the pattern. The pattern is written so that every other round you decrease knitwise and every other round you decrease purlwise. But because of this modification, you’ll have to decrease knitwise and purlwise in each round, as follows…
Round 1: * [K1, p1] four times, k1, p2tog, work in established pattern to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, [k1, p1] four times, k1, k2tog, work in established pattern to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog tbl, repeat from * one time. [8 stitches decreased]
Round 2: * [K1, p1] four times, k1, k2tog, work in established pattern to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog tbl, [k1, p1] four times, k1, p2tog, work in established pattern to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, repeat from * one time. [8 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 four more times. [56 stitches]
Repeat Round 1. [48 stitches]
At this point you should be able to pretty much follow the remainder of the pattern.
I hope this helps. I haven’t tested it out, so definitely let me know if you have questions or run into any problems.
Laura
This is awesome! Thanks so much! I will let you know how I make out!
Hello! I have a quick question about when you start the decreasing rows… When In says “Round 1: *[K1, p1] four times, k1, k2tog, work in established pattern to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, repeat from * to end of round. [8 stitches decreased]” Is the established pattern “[K1, p1] four times, k1, k2tog” or just K1, P1?
Hi Cassidy.
I’m glad you wrote in!
The established pattern is the 1 x 1 rib, where you’ll knit the knit columns and purl the purl columns.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
I am a beginner knitter and I was really excited to make this hat but I need help! I made it all the way to setting up the round and that went just fine, easier than expected. It says to place 3 markers but I am confused as to where I need to place them. I am casting on the 144 so do I place a marker every 36 stitches? When I get to round 2, do I move the markers? Thanks!!
Hi Katie.
For the set up round, you’ll see, it reads…
Set-Up Round: [Work 36 (40, 44, 48) stitches in established 1 x 1 rib pattern, place marker] three times, work in established pattern to end of round.
So, yes! You’ll work 36 stitches, knitting the knit columns and purling the purl columns and then you’ll place a marker, then you’ll do that 2 more times and then you’ll work to the end of the round. But then… you can just leave your markers where they are until the end of the project, just before your fasten off the final 24 stitches. You’ll use them as guides, you notice the decrease rounds instruct you to work up to the markers, so be sure to leave them where they are.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
Hello, I am new to knitting and was wondering what exactly to do in the set-up round? I have no idea what the 1×1 rib pattern is….Thanks and sorry.
Hi Shana.
Thanks for writing in.
You work the hat in a k1, p1 pattern (also know as a 1 x 1 rib) for 8 inches, up to when it’s time to shape the crown of the hat. Then, as you saw, the pattern refers to the established 1 x 1 rib pattern… this just means you’ll want to continue to knit the knit columns and purl the purl columns between decreases.
I hope this helps.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Laura
Hi! Love this patter so much and I really want to knit it! I’ve just completed my gauge swatch on my size 3 needles, with two strands of Line Weight (swoon) held together. Unblocked, the gauge came out about 30 X 25.5 (4 inches), or 7.5 X 6.25 stitches per 1 inch. The fabric itself isn’t tight as I’d like for this pattern. What do you think, should I get a different yarn or try it on size 2’s, or maybe block it and see how it comes out?
Thanks so much!
Hey Sydney.
I would definitely block the swatch you already made. And then I’d work up a new swatch on US2s and block that. I have a feeling you’ll like the density of the fabric on the US2s. Let us know how it goes or if you have any questions!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
When it comes to shaping the top of hat are rounds 1 & 2 repeated a total of 5 (6,7,8) more times each or should it equal that amount. I can’t seem to figure it out on my own. Thanks!
Hi Bridget.
Thanks for writing in.
For the shaping… you’ll work the Set-Up Round. Then you’ll work Round 1 and then Round 2 and then you’ll repeat both Round 1 and Round 2 five (six, seven, eight) more times. This leaves you with 48 stitches. At this point, not including the Set-Up round, you will have worked Round 1 and Round 2 six (7, 8, 9) times… adding up to 12 (14, 16, 18) total rounds.
Let me know if this isn’t clear or if you have any additional questions!
Laura
Thank you!! 🙂
I’m trying to work a chart I made into this hat, but I was just wondering, would it be possible to make this hat replacing the 1×1 rib pattern with just knit stitches? Like, would it change the size of the hat, and if so, how could I correct this? I’m rather new to knitting, but I wanted to make a hat with a stranded knitting chart I made; unfortunately, the chart is rather large, so the hat needs to be made on either size 2 or 3 needles. This was one of the only patterns I could find that perfectly fit what I needed, but I just wanted to know what I should do if I don’t put it in 1×1 rib pattern. Thanks! 🙂
Hi Rachel.
Thanks for your interest in the pattern.
If you worked this hat in stockinette rather than in the 1 x 1 rib, it would be a approximately a 1 1/3 or 1 1/2 times larger. I just finished a sweater with two strands of Line Weight in stockinette (I was on a larger needle, but) I was getting around 6 stitches to the inch, rather than the 9 3/4 stitches to the inch I got for these hats with the 1 x 1 rib.
Modifying this hat for a stranded stockinette pattern is going to be way more work than it’s worth. I would recommend figuring out what gauge you need for your stranded pattern and making a swatch and figuring out the repeat of the stranded pattern and then casting on a multiple of that repeat. The finished dimension of a lot of stockinette hats are approximately 2 inches smaller than the head size. So if you have a 21-inch head. Cast on a number that will create a 19-inch hat. And be sure that number is compatible with the shaping and stranding of your chart.
Good luck!
Laura
Thank you so much for this pattern. It’s my first full sized project and Iove it so much. It’s super stylish and super comfy to wear.
As a mirror knitter should I keep the decreases the same or reverse them to achieve the same look?
Hi Joy.
I have to admit that I am not all that familiar with mirror knitting. I’ve looked it up though and watched a video and I believe you should reverse the decreases. I’m assuming you read each row or round of pattern backwards? Is that correct? I believe if you knit in the oposite direction, then you’ll reach the point of ssk before you’ll reach k2tog. Even if you don’t read the entire round backwards and you start with [k1, p1] 4 times, you’ll still want to do an ssk to what would be the right of those stitches, if you’re looking at the fabric.
I do hope this helps!
Please let me know what you end up doing / how it turns out. I’m curious about this whole other part of the knitting world.
Laura
Hi there, I’m having problem in the decreases. When I finish the [k1, p1] set of 4. I do the k1 and then k2tog and the very next stitch is a p.
So do I k1 into that p?
Hi Kelly.
After you [K1, p1] four times, k1, k2tog, then you are going to work in established pattern to 2 stitches before next marker… this means that you should continue and knit the knit columns and purl the purl columns. So you’ll want to purl that purl stitch.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
How are you getting 48 stitches after the decrease rounds are done. I did the first two set up rounds and then repeated them 7 times, for a total of 9 rounds and my final stitch count was 104. I’m so confused. Help!
Hi Joy.
In Round 1 you decrease 8 stitches and in Round 2 you decrease 8 stitches and then once you’ve repeat Rounds 1 and 2 five (six, seven, eight) MORE times… you will have decreased a total of 96 (112, 128, 144) stitches… leaving you with 48 stitches.
I’m guessing your making the second smallest size with a cast on of 160 and that you’re decreasing 8 stitches a round, but you’ve only worked 7 total rounds, rather than 14 total rounds. Could this be the case?
Write us back!
I’d love to help get you on track!
Laura
Hello! How many yards of this yarn do you need to make one medium sized men’s hat? I see the Purl Soho line weight yarn is 494 yds. If i wanted to make a solid color hat, would one skien, pulled twice, be enough?
Hi Jill.
I believe you should have just enough with one skein of Line Weight. I used approximately 420 total yards of Line Weight for the Women’s Medium/Men’s Small. It might be close, but I think you can squeak it out.
Thanks.
Laura
Hi
I love this pattern it’s so cute.
I want to make matching ones for my brother in law and my nephew. How would I size it down best to fit a 8 month old? I have measures his head. It is almost 18 inches circumference.
Thanks for your help!
Hi Laura.
For an 18-inch head… I would cast on 128 stitches.
When you are ready to shape the yoke, work the set-up round as follows…
Set-Up Round: [Work 32 stitches in established 1 x 1 rib pattern, place marker] three times, work in established pattern to end of round.
Then when it says to Repeat Rounds 1 and 2… you’ll only do that four more times to get to 48 stitches.
Then work the remainder of the pattern as instructed.
Hope this helps!
Laura
Hi, was wondering if y’all would consider creating a video of the long tail tubular cast on, and of some of the techniques in making this cap? I am new to knitting and just love your site, but need a bit more help. Thank you for sharing with us.
Hi Melissa.
Just this week we were talking about how much we need to make the Long Tail Tubular Cast On tutorial into video! Please know that it (and a slew of others) are on our list of things to do. Please stay tuned!
As for the rest of the hat… is there anything I can try and help you with?
We have a k2tog video here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/08/13/knit-two-together-k2tog/
We have an ssk video here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/08/13/slip-slip-knit-ssk-2/
Thanks for writing in.
Let me know if I can help in any way.
Laura
Hi Laura. I’m working this hat right now and I’m at the point where I’m decreasing and need to switch to dpns. I am really new to knitting. Matter of fact, this is my first project. I’m not sure how many needles Im supposed to use or how many stitches to put on each needle? Can you help explain this to me? Sorry if I’m asking a rookie question. Thank you for your time! 🙂
Wow Cate!
This is a bold first project. I am very impressed! And happy to help with the dpns questions.
First off… have you seen our double pointed needle tutorial. It’s pretty helpful.https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/07/25/double-pointed-needles/
In regards to how many needles to put the stitches onto, I usually use 3 double pointed needles to hold the stitches and then a 4th to knit with. Sometimes the circumference of something is so large that you’ll want to use 4 needles to hold the stitches and then a 5th to work with. It’s really up you. Do whatever is most comfortable. For this project it may be helpful to use 4 needles to hold the stitches. Try to arrange it so that the stitch markers is roughly in the center of each double pointed needle.
Please let us know if you have any questions and again… CONGRATS on your first project!!!
Laura
I’m making this for a friend and am starting the decreases. I understand the “(k1,p1) four times, k1, k2tog” part, but then it says to continue the pattern… If I start again with a (k1,p1) I will be purling the knits and knitting the purls, thus creating “seed stitch.” So should I (p1, k1) four times after I complete the sequence above? Hope this question makes sense!
Kat
Hi Kat.
Yes! Your question definitely makes sense.
When you are to continue in established pattern, what I mean here is to keep knitting the knit columns and purling the purl columns. After some decrease rounds you’ll be working (k1,p1) and after other decrease rounds it’ll be (p1, k1), just be sure to continue working the fabric as you have been in terms of knitting the knit stitches and purling the purl stitches so that you don’t make seed stitch.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
Hi there 🙂
I seem to be stuck on round 1 on the shape of the hat. The pattern says to do k1p1k1p1k1p1k1p1k1k2tog.. But at the end of this, if I start this pattern again, it will become seed stich. As the next stich after the k2tog will need to be a purl to continue to 1×1 rib.. But the pattern is calling for a knit stich which will make the next 9 stitches look like the seed stitch. What am I doing wrong? Is this how it’s supposed to be??
Thank youu!
Dani
Hi Dani.
I’m glad you wrote in.
When the pattern instructs you to continue in established pattern, what it means is to keep knitting the knit columns and purling the purl columns. After some of the decrease rounds you’ll be working (k1,p1) and after other decrease rounds it’ll be (p1, k1), just be sure to continue working the fabric as you have been in terms of knitting the knit stitches and purling the purl stitches so that you don’t make seed stitch.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
Oh man, that decrease through the back loop was awkward! So hard. I was sweating and felt my fingers cramp up every time it came up! Did anyone else find this super hard. Maybe my tension is way too tight. . .
Hi,
I have previously found a pattern I used to knit a baby hat and it turned out great. It looks very similar to this pattern. That baby hat was supposed to have a rolled up edge and also as I knit the beginning it rolled all on its own. I am concerned that this hat might do the same.
-Kaliray
Hi Kaliray.
Thanks for writing in.
The ribbed fabric prevents any rolling to occur, so fret not!
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Laura
Hi,
I made a hat for a baby that was similar to this. That hat was supposed to have a rolled edge and as I was knitting it the edge would roll and would not unroll which made me glad that the hat was supposed to be that way. I am concerned that this hat will do the same. Will it? Also I looked at your tutorial for p2tog tbl but I do not quite understand it. Can you please make a video of it?
Hi Kaliray.
I appreciate your request. I will see what we can do to get it on our “to video list”. In the meantime though, is there something I can help you with? What about the tutorial did you not understand?
Thanks.
Laura
Hello, I too am having trouble with the Shaping, Round 1. Having cast on 160 stitches and knitted 8″ of fabric, I am now ready with four DPNs, each holding 40 stitches. When I start the round (work 9 in established pattern, k2tog) I use 33 stitches, leaving seven at the end of the first needle – where do I ssk?
Regards,
Kate
Hi Kate.
I’m glad you wrote in. I think maybe you might have misread a bit of the pattern. So the way I have the pattern written is using markers to indicate where to start/end the repeats. But I see you’ve divided your stitches onto 4 double pointed needles in lieu of placing markers?
On the decrease rounds, you’ll be decreasing twice per needle, 8 stitches per round. So in the pattern when it say to work in pattern until 2 stitches before a marker, for you this will mean to work up to 2 stitches before the end of your needle. So you’ll…
Work in pattern for 9 stitches, k2tog, work in pattern (knitting the knit columns and purling the purl columns) until two stitches before the end of your needle, and then ssk. Then you’ll repeat this on each of the following three needles.
Does that help!? Let me know if I’ve misunderstood the question! Thanks. -Laura
I love this pattern, and I found great yarn with a gauge od 21 sts x 28 rows = 4″ on US size 6 needles. How many stitches would I cast on for this pattern on US size 6 needles?
Hi Abby.
Thank you for the interest in the pattern.
I can’t vouch for exactly how the hat will end up if worked at a different gauge, but… with 21 stitches to 4 inches, I would probably cast on
80 (96, 112) for a hat resulting in a 15 1/4 (18 1/4, 21 3/8)-inch circumference unstretched. These should comfortably fit a baby/toddler (kid/small adult, large adult). The math doesn’t work out to exactly align with the sizes provided in my pattern here, but hopefully this will help you get started!
Thanks.
Laura
i just started to decrease and im having trouble! When i do the k2tog in the 1st round the next stitch after that is a purl. Should i just follow the instructions and knit the purl stitch and the purl the knit stitch or did i mess up the pattern somewhere? Plz help!
Hello Karen!
After you’re done with the decreases, you’ll need to “work in established pattern to 2 stitches before next marker”, which means you should continue to knit the knits and purl the purls according to the pattern you’ve already established. You’re correct in noticing that the pattern would be disrupted if you knit on top of the purl stitch!
Keep stitching and have fun finishing your hat! -Alyson
Hello Purlbee! Quick question: I assume I make my gauge using one strand of yarn instead of two even though the pattern is knit with two. I’m using size 3 needles and Malabrigo sock weight yarn. Thank you!
Hey Betsy.
Thanks for writing in.
Yes! One strand of a sock weight yarn should substitute nicely for the two strands of thin fingering weight yarn that I used here. Let us know if you have any questions!
Laura
Just clarification for the decreasing rounds:
It says to repeat rounds 1&2 five times (etc). Does this mean [round 1, round 2] 5 times or is this (I’m going to abbreviate r1 for round 1 etc) r1, r2, r1, r2, r1 –a total of 5 rounds?
Thanks!
Hi Chantell.
Thanks for writing in.The instructions to Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 five more times would mean, as you wrote it… [round 1, round 2] 5 times, adding up to a total of 10 more rounds.
Let us know if you have any questions!
Laura
Thanks for the quick response!
I have one more question:
After completing rounds 1&2 five times, I have a total of 64 stitches.
When I started the next step
(Next Round: *Ssk, [k1, p1] two times, k1, k2tog, p1, k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round. [40 stitches])
I had four extra stitches left on my double pointed needles.
My question is: should I just knit the stitches as the come OR should I knit an extra (round 1, round 2) in order to have 48 stitches total (12 on each double pointed needle).
Thanks!
Hi Chantell!
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 one more time! That’ll get you down to 48 and then the rest of the pattern will fall into place.
You started out with that Set-up Round and then work Round 1 and then work Round 2 and then you’re instructed to work Rounds 1 and 2 five MORE times. That “more” can get a bit tricky. I apologize if my last comment wasn’t clear… Repeating Rounds 1 and 2 five MORE times adds up to 10 rounds, after the initial 2 rounds, so 12 total rounds of decreasing (at that point in the pattern).
Holler if you have any questions, Chantell!
Laura