Baby Jumper
When there’s a baby in the picture, knitters have a hard time sitting idle. Our fingers twitch until we’ve outfitted that little bundle in our finest efforts. So when Molly’s baby Guadalupe joined the Purl Bee family, that was my cue to get knitting!
I designed this Baby Jumper to appease little Lupe’s budding sense of style but also her mother’s legendary concern for practicality! Loose and soft and comfy, this simple dress is easy to slip over a squirmy baby’s head and really works for the longhaul, first as a jumper, then as a tunic, and even later as a shirt. Plus, it’s machine washable. Even Molly has to approve!
And since every hand knit baby gift has heirloom potential, I knit this one up in Anzula’s very special Sebastian yarn. Sebastian combines superwash merino with sea cell, a newfangled seaweed-cellulose fiber that offers durability, drape and a very pretty soft shine! -Whitney
PS: Want to catch a glimpse of sweet Lupe in her Baby Jumper? Click here to see her on Instagram!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Whitney Van Nes.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoBabyJumper. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- Anzula’s Sebastian, 70% Superwash Merino and 30% Sea Cell.
- Main Color: 1 (2, 2) skeins. I used the color Seaside.
- Contrast Color: 1 (1, 1) skein. I used the color Hyacinth.
(Please note, Sebastian from Anzula has been discontinued. As an alternative, we’d recommend trying our Posy yarn, a super soft blend of 75% superwash merino, 15% cashmere, and 10% nylon, perfect for this sweet little jumper! You will need 4 to 6 skeins of Posy for the Main Color and 1 skein for the straps)
- US 2 (3 mm), 24-inch circular needles
- US 3 (3.25 mm), 24-inch circular needles
- Two US 2 double pointed needles
- A size B (2.5 mm) crochet hook
- A 3/8-inch button. Purl Soho’s Small Mother of Pearl Buttons would be a good choice!
Gauge
31 stitches =4 inches in stockinette stitch with larger needle
Finished Sizes
Small (Medium, Large)
To fit 6-9 (9-12, 12-18) month olds
- Circumference around bottom hem: 28½ (29¾, 31) inches
- Circumference around top band: 18 (18¾, 19½) inches
- Length from underarm (top of band) to bottom hem: 12 (13¼, 14½) inches
- Length from shoulder to bottom hem: 15¼ inches (16¾, 18¼) (adjustable)
- Neck opening: 4½ (4¾, 5) inches
SAMPLE: We knit the Small size.
Pattern
Begin
With the smaller circular needle and the Main Color (MC), cast on 221 (231, 241) stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Round 1: Purl.
Round 2: Knit.
Rounds 3 and 4: Repeat Rounds 1 and 2.
Round 5: Purl.
Change to larger circular needle and knit every round until piece measures 11 (12, 13) inches from cast on edge.
Cut yarn.
The Band
Change to smaller circular needle and the Contrast Color (CC), leaving a 12-inch tail.
Round 1: *K1, (ssk, k2tog), repeat from * to last stitch, k1. 133 (139, 145) stitches
Now work back and forth in rows, turning the work at the end of each row.
Row 1 (wrong side): With the purl side facing you, knit.
Row 2 (right side): Knit.
Row 3: Purl.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 four (five, six) more times.**
Repeat Row 2.
Repeat from Row 1 to ** one time.
Finishing the Band
Fold the band over so the wrong sides are facing each other and…
1. With the right needle, pick up the purl bump from the color change round that is directly in line with the first stitch on the left needle.
2. Slip the purl bump onto the left needle.
3. Knit two together (the purl bump and the first “regular” stitch).
(At the beginning of the row, repeat these three steps one more time so that you are able to do the next step.)
4. Slip the second stitch on the right needle over the first (just like binding off).
Repeat these 4 steps all the way to the end of the band. (Tip: Check frequently that the stitch you’re picking up is still in line with the first stitch on the left needle, otherwise the band will start to skew.)
Cut the yarn, leaving a 12-inch tail.
With a size B crochet hook, use the CC tails to crochet closed the ends of the bands. Here’s how:
Insert the hook through the edge of both layers of fabric.
Pull a stitch through and chain 1. On the right-hand side, make 8 (9, 10) slip stitches along the edge of the band, inserting the hook through both layers of fabric each time. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitch.
On the left-hand side, create a small buttonhole. Here’s how: make 6 (7, 8) slip stitches to 1/4 inch from the top of the band, chain 6, reinsert the hook right next to the chains and make 2 slip stitches to the end. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitch.
Weave in the ends, using the MC tail to close the gap at the base of the band.
Right Strap
With the right side facing you and using a double pointed needle and the CC, begin 3 1/4 (3 1/2, 3 3/4) inches to the right of the back split…
… to pick up 8 (9, 10) stitches along the top of the band (working toward the split).
Row 1: [kfb] 8 (9, 10) times. 16 (18, 20) stitches
Row 2: Slip 1 knitwise through the back loop, *bring the yarn forward, slip 1 purlwise, bring the yarn back, knit 1, repeat from * to last stitch, purl 1. (For a photo tutorial of this row, visit our Double Knit Belt Project Journal here.)
Repeat Row 2 until strap measures 6 1/2 (7, 7 1/2) inches. (If the recipient of your jumper is on hand, take a measurement from an inch below her armpit, over the top of her shoulder and to the other side of her armpit. Knit the strap to this length minus an inch [because the strap will stretch with the weight of the finished jumper].)
Bind Off Row: [K2tog] 2 times, *pass the first stitch over the second stitch (like a normal bind off), k2tog, repeat from * until one stitch remains. Cut the yarn, leaving an 8-inch tail, and pull it through the remaining stitch.
Fold the dress in half at the back slit and mark the front center of the band.
Situate the bind off end of the strap (making sure it’s not twisted!) so that its right edge is 2 1/4 (2 3/8, 2 1/2) inches left of the center front mark.
Using the bind off tail, sew the end of the strap to the top of the band. For a neat finish, sew under the band’s top purl bump…
…then under the bottom half of the bind off stitch.
Left Strap
With the right side facing you and using a US #2 double pointed needle and the CC, begin 2 1/4 (2 3/8, 2 1/2) inches to the left of the back split…
… to pick up 8 (9, 10) stitches along the top of the band (working away from the split).
Work from Row 1 through the Bind Off Row of the Right Strap instructions, above.
Then situate the bind off end of the strap (making sure, again, that it’s not twisted) so that its left edge is 2 1/4 (2 3/8, 2 1/2) inches left of the center front mark. Sew the strap’s end to the top of the band.
Sew a button onto the band across from the buttonhole.
Weave in any remaining ends, gently block and you’re done!
This is lovely! Is the button necessary for proper fit?
I would love to see bigger sizes of this pattern! Toddler sizes would be great too.
I was also going to ask about larger sizing… I have an extra large 18 month old – so a 2T or 3T pattern would be fantastic.
Hi Stephanie,
No, not really :). I just like the design detail, but the button could also come in handy if the tight gets a bit snug.
Thanks for asking!
Whitney
Thanks for this lovely pattern! Me too would like a larger size available.
Besides, I'm from Germany, a knitting beginner 😉 and have a difficulty in understanding the gauge. Why are there mentioned only stitches and no rows?
Just a question. I am a novice knitter, someone who has crocheted for years and just started to venture into the world of knitting. I have knitted The Purl Bee's Bandana Pattern a couple of times now and find your patterns super easy to read and a favorite of mine to knit. It's so great that you link-up to other tutorials on your website (like how to turn knitting without making a huge hole!) because it makes life just so much easier. Here in Wisconsin, we don't have such fun yarn stores that have such great patterns, I am forever linking them through emails to my friends who love knitting!
My question has to do with the number of stitches cast on. Tonight I started this project casting on the 231 stitches for the 9-12 jumper. As I completed the first five rows, I noticed that there seemed to be a lot of stitches on my needles, bunching and twisting. Worried about how big this Jumper was really going to be, I pulled it off of my circular needle. The knit was HUGE. Did I do something wrong? I quick grabbed my measuring tape and did some calculations.
My diameter was about 12 in, multiplying that by 3.14, the circumference almost 38 inches. So, the 231 stitches for me was nowhere near your calculations. I know how to gauge out my work, and I consider myself a very tight knitter (so far as a novice), and I have the right needle sizes but I didn't know why my work was so much bigger. I did the math, your pattern reads 29 3/4 inches for the Jumper I want to make, which means I needed around a 9 inch diameter to get a circumference of 29 and some change. Which, for me, was about 171 stitches. Is that normal? Am I reading something wrong? Do I just continue on with less stitches cast on?
Once again, thank you for such awesome patterns! And for your time reading this. I hope I made sense…I just would really like to learn this new craft and want to make sure that I am successful!
Hi Jana,
We don't usually include the row gauge because it is proportionate to the stitch gauge. Also, the stitch gauge is often much more important for getting the size right, since so frequently a pattern tells you to knit a certain number of inches rather than a certain number of rows (or rounds).
Thanks for asking!
Whitney
Hi Abby S,
One big problem with your situation is that measuring your knitting after just a few rounds (or even after just a few inches) is very misleading! It's always way bigger than the tube will actually be in the end.
If you have a firm grasp on making a swatch and measuring your gauge, and you did, in fact, find the needle that gets you to 7 3/4 stitches to the inch, then you should be all set! To review swatches and gauges, here is our Not Too Tight Tutorial: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/not-too-tight-tutorial/
One technicality that you may want to explore is that if you knit your gauge swatch flat (i.e. knit 1 row, purl 1 row) it may not be entirely accurate because you may be a very loose or tight purler, and you don't actually purl for most of this pattern. To overcome this problem, check out our Swatching a Circular Gauge Tutorial right here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/swatching-circular-gauge/
I hope this information helps! Please let us know if you have any other questions and good luck with your knitting adventures!
Whitney
Hello, I see your Baby Jumper in this blog: http://lamagliadimarica.com
The author has your permission to publish?
This lady is known for taking models all over the web and translated into Italian and advertise them without asking anything to anyone.
I love your blog and I wanted to inform you.
Thanks for the pattern. I'm working the straps and learned the hard way that you pick up 8 stitches 3 1/4 in away from split and pick up TOWARDS the split, not away. :-/ I didn't find that clear in the pattern. I tried making it work as is, but it's way too far away. Off to frog my strap…
Hi Lindsay,
Thanks so much for sharing your experience! I thought that since I said to work with the right side facing you, the direction of the pick up would be inevitable, but I was wrong!
I added clarification in the pattern, so hopefully you'll be the last person to have had this problem. I'm sorry you did!
Thanks again and good luck with the second strap!
Whitney
I've been knitting for a number of years and try as I might, I am an extremely loose knitter. Sometimes I have to go down as much as 3 needle sizes. Do you have any suggestions/solutions for me to try?
MAMOM
HI Mamom,
You could try to change the way you knit, either by giving a little extra tug to each stitch or even by trying Continental knitting if you now knit English style or vice versa; but if going down three needle sizes hasn't presented any problems to you other than the feeling that you're doing something wrong, then I would just stick with that remedy! Lots of people share your "problem", but I think it takes all kinds of knitters for the world to go round!
Thanks for asking and please let us know if you have any more questions!
Whitney
Dear Whitney,
I am knitting the large jumper. It says to cast on 241 stitches (73/4 stiches per inch)is the gauge. If you do the math give or take 8 stiches per inch would come to approx. 31
inches. Im a very tight knitter and no matter how I knit my circumference it is 40' at the finished bottom. my stiches are 73/4 stiches to the inch but yet it measures 40 inches. Is this ok to continue? 9 inches is a big difference compared to 31". Please advise.
Thank you for your time.
Hi Cathy,
If your gauge is indeed 7 3/4 stitches to the inch and you cast on 241 stitches, then your bottom circumference will be 31 inches. I promise!
I think what may be happening is that you're measuring before you have knit enough to get an accurate measurement. Knitting does a strange thing: it stretches enormously for the first few inches, and then after a certain length of knitting (about 5 inches or so), it somehow snaps into shape and becomes its "true" size. If this isn't what's happening for you, then I would suggest that your gauge is maybe a little looser than you think.
Please let us know if you have any more questions and thank you so much for this one!
Whitney
Hi Whitney, I know there have been some other inquiries for a toddler-sized pattern of this lovely baby jumper… I have an almost 2yo who is on the small end of clothing, do you think the 12-18month size would be big enough for her? And if I did end up deciding to make it a bit bigger, what is your suggestion is alternating the pattern for this? Thanks!
Hi Gabrielle,
To determine if the 12-18 month size would work, check out the Finished Measurements section of the pattern, then measure your child (or an article of clothing that fits her) to figure out if that size will work.
To alter the pattern, I'd first consider the top band, since that really determines the fit. Cast on a number of stitches that, when you make the decreases, will get you to the number of stitches you want for the top band.
I hope this helps with your decision-making! Please let us know if you have ay other questions and thank you for these!
Whitney
I would love to make this for my niece, but I am vegan and do not use wool yarn. Would you suggest another yarn, cotton or otherwise that would work?
Could this pattern be made with your line weight yarn? I'm looking for a less expensive yarn to use that wouldn't involve me make changes for a different gauge.
Hi Andrea,
I think your best bet would be Habu's beautiful 100% bamboo yarns. It comes in white right here: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/8063-Habu-Textiles-2012-Bamboo and in beautifully dyed colors here: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/9119-Habu-Textiles-Dyed-Bamboo. Like the Sebastian, the bamboo has a pretty luster and drape, and addressing your concern, it's, of course, animal-free!
Thanks for your question and please let us know if you have more!
Whitney
Hi Bry,
It sure could! I think that sounds like a great idea. Our whole collection of Line Weight is right here: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/9249-Purl-Soho-Line-Weight
Thanks for the great question and good luck!
Whitney
I'm curious to know whether a smaller version has been attempted. I think if I decrease by ten stitches for casting on, it should be ok. But am not sure.
Any suggestions would be great! My cousin is due in May and I want her little one to be able to wear it this summer.
Hi Megan,
Casting on 10 fewer stitches will make the circumference of the skirt 1 1/4 inch smaller. You'll have to make other adjustments as you work (with the length, number of stitches you end up with for the top band, the placement of the straps, etc), but it's essentially a very simple pattern, so give it a shot!
Thanks for your question and please let us know if you have any others!
Whitney
I am wanting to make this dress for a 2 y/o. Will 2 skeins be enough or do I need more? Has anyone made it in a larger size?
Hi Monica,
I'm not totally certain, but I would guess that two skeins of the Main Color and 1 of the Contrast Color would be enough. If you're nervous about running out, you may consider buying three skeins and leaving one unwound. If you end up not needing it, you can exchange it within six months for the yarn for your next project! Our official return policy is right here: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/shop/return
Thank you for asking and good luck!
Whitney
Hi ! thank you for the beautiful tutorial . i am just about to make the straps but can not found the tutorial for the double knit belt project … could you help me ? thanks a lot!!!
Hi Camilla-
The link has been fixed in the story. Thanks for pointing this out!
Best- Molly
Hi Whitney!
I'm partway through this project, and about to begin the band… This may be a silly question, but in my first row for the band where I start the CC color band and switch to the #2 needle… do I knit one full row with the CC color and then go into the round with *K1 (ssk, k2tog), or is that first row in which I start with the CC color the row where I *K1 (ssk, k2tog)? I think it's the latter, but wanted to make sure. Thanks!
Hi Sig,
Yes, it is the latter! Just start right in with Round 1.
Thanks for asking and please let us know if you have any other questions!
Whitney
hi everyone-
i’ve made several of the wonderful patterns from your site, thank you so much for such beautiful projects!!
I’ve nearly finished this one and it’s super cute!! however the cast on edge rolls itself quite a bit despite the little border… even after ironing! The gauge you suggested worked out for me, so i don’t think i’m knitting too tight.
any suggestions??
thanks so much in advance 🙂 🙂
Hello atb,
We are so happy that you are enjoying our projects, thank you for letting us know. As for the edge on your jumper, the rolling should get much better when you finish the project and give it a good wet block. You can find a tutorial for blocking on our site here. I would follow the instructions under the “Heavy Duty Blocking” section. Please let us know if you have any other questions.
Happy knitting!
Allison
how could i adjust size for a 2 year old?
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for the question! I suggest you try knitting this in a thicker yarn to get a bigger size. First I would do a gauge swatch and get your stitches per inch. I’d then multiply this number by the chest size you desire, making sure to add an inch or two for ease. This will be a rough estimate of the amount of stitches you’ll need around the chest. In the pattern, find the size that is the closest match to this amount of stitches and follow those directions. I think that this is the easiest way to follow the pattern without changing too much.
Best of luck,
Adam
I love your site! I am a beginner knitter and I find your site so inspiring.
Can’t wait to visit your store.
My question is – Is there a way of converting this pattern for to be knitted with Aran yarn? I have 3 skeins of Cascade Cherub yarn and would love to make my grand daughter a dress. If this pattern does not work, can you recommend another pattern. Nothing to difficult as I am still trying to get my skills up to speed. Thanks,
Hi Janis,
Thanks for writing in! Converting this from fingering to aran weight would require a fair amount of work and may not be possible given the fit of the final garment. The aran weight would create a very bulky and warm garment. If you are interested in a baby item that uses a heavier weight yarn, I would suggest the Petite Popover.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Since this yarn is discontinued what very interesting yarn do you have to replace it? I do love the anzula yarn- something soft and great coloring? Thanks, Susan
Hi Susan,
Thanks for writing in! I suggest Anzula Cloud as a replacement for the Sebastian. The colors are amazing and it gets super soft after blocking. Even better: it’s machine washable!
Thanks again,
Adam
Hello!
I would love to make this pattern to fit sizes 0-3 months. Do you have any suggestions on how to adjust?
Thanks 🙂
Hello Rebecca,
Thank you for reaching out! To Make a smaller version of this pattern you will just need reduce you cast on. I would cast on 211 stitches and go from there. The rest of the pattern should be pretty straightforward from there.
I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
It is a beautiful pattern and I like to make one for my grand daughter 4-5 years old. Will you please let me know how I can modify the pattern.
Thank you.
Hi Vani,
Thanks for reaching out. Unfortunately, we do not have the time or resources to create a different version of this pattern. We’re so sorry about that! I’ll make note of your interest in larger sizes though!
All the best,
Lili