I guess it isn’t surprising that a knitter has an affinity for sheep. Obviously, some sort of kinship must exist with the animal whose wool provides daily enjoyment (and employment!). So as predictable as it may be, I will say it anyway… I love sheep. They are funny creatures with a neurotic voice and a body perfect for graphic adaptation.
I love their bulbous bellies and knobbly knees, their googly eyes and pointy ears. I love how they amble about in groups, looking like earth-bound clouds. And it goes without saying, I love what they gift us… don’t worry, I’m not about to type “mutton.” I mean, of course, their wool!
A dear friend pointed out that it may be a bit snake-eating-its-own-tail, but anyway, I had to make one… I had to make a sheep, made out of sheep.
Incredibly soft to the touch, Purl Soho’s Super Soft Merino could not have been more appropriate for this project, right down to its color name, Heirloom White. Your own Bobble Sheep Pillow is sure to be loved by many generations to come! -Laura
Update: New Yarn + Size
February 29, 2016
Being the sheep fanatics that we are, we couldn’t resist making more Bobble Sheep, this time in our incredibly soft jumbo weight Gentle Giant merino. For the list of materials, as well as tips on modifying the pattern, visit our Bobble Sheep Pillow in Gentle Giant post.
Materials
Get all the yarn you’ll need to make your own Bobble Sheep Pillow with the Bobble Sheep Pillow Bundle. It includes…
- Main Yarn: 4 skeins of Purl Soho’s Super Soft Merino, 100% merino wool, in the color Heirloom White (above), Toasted Charcoal (below, left) or Soft Black (below, right).
- Contrast Yarn: 1 skein of Blue Sky’s Sport Weight Alpaca, 100% baby alpaca, in the color 509 Dark Gray.
You’ll also need…
- US 11, 16 or 24-inch circular needles
- Set of US 11 double pointed needles
- Set of US 3 double pointed needles
- 1 bag of Fairfield’s Poly-fil Stuffing
- Scrap yarn (bulky weight) and crochet hook to match (for provisional cast on)
Gauge
12 stitches = 4 inches in garter stitch with Main Yarn on larger needle
28 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette with Contrast Yarn on smaller needle
Size
19 inches wide (from chest to rear) x 14 inches tall (from top of back to bottom of belly)
Notes
k3tog [knit 3 together]: This is a right-slanting double decrease. Insert right needle into next three stitches as if to knit, knit all three stitches together as if they were one stitch. [2 stitches decreased]
MB [Make Bobble]: Knit into the next stitch, leaving it on the left needle, [(yarn over, knit 1) into same stitch] two times. Turn work so wrong side is facing you, k5; turn work so right side is facing you, k2tog; return stitch to left needle, slip remaining three stitches of bobble over the k2tog stitch, knit that stitch, returning it to the right needle. For a full-photo tutorial on how to make this particular bobble, please click here.
sk2p [slip 1, k2tog, psso]: This is a left-slanting double decrease. Slip 1 purlwise, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch and off the needle. [2 stitches decreased]
Pattern
Body
Begin at the Belly
With the crochet hook and scrap yarn use a Provisional Cast On method to cast 46 stitches onto the larger double pointed needles.
Distribute the stitches on three double pointed needles, place a marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches. Join Main Yarn and…
Round 1: Knit.
Round 2: [P21, place a marker that is a different color than the end-of-the-round marker, k2] two times.
Round 3: Knit.
Round 4: [Purl to next marker, slip marker (sm), k2] two times.
Increase to Shape the Body
NOTE: Change to circular needles when necessary.
Increasing every round…
Round 5: [M1L, k2, *make bobble (MB, see Notes), k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2] two times. [4 stitches increased]
Round 6: [M1L, purl to next marker, m1R, sm, k2] two times. [4 stitches increased]
Repeat Rounds 5 and 6 three more times. [78 stitches]
Increasing every other round…
Round 7: [K2, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, sm, k2] two times.
Round 8: [M1L, purl to next marker, m1R, sm, k2] two times. [4 stitches increased]
Round 9: [K1, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, MB, k1, sm, k2] two times.
Round 10: Repeat Round 8.
Round 11: [*MB, k3, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, MB, sm, k2] two times.
Round 12: Repeat Round 8.
Round 13: [K3, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 4 stitches before next marker, MB, k3, sm, k2] two times.
Round 14: Repeat Round 8. [94 stitches]
Work Evenly
Round 15: [K2, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, sm, k2] two times.
Round 16: [Purl to next marker, sm, k2] two times.
Round 17: [*MB, k3, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, MB, sm, k2] two times.
Round 18: Repeat Round 16.
Repeat Rounds 15-18 two more times.
Decrease for Neck and Tail
NOTE: Change to double pointed needles when necessary.
Round 19: K2, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, sk2p (see Notes), sm, k2, k3tog (see Notes), **k3, MB, repeat from ** to 2 stitches before next marker, k2, sm, k2. [90 stitches, 4 stitches decreased at head]
Round 20: K2tog, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, sk2p, sm, k2, k3tog, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2. [6 stitches decreased: 2 at tail, 4 at head]
Round 21: K3, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 5 stitches before next marker, MB, k1, sk2p, sm, k2, k3tog, k1, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to 4 stitches before next marker, MB, k3, sm, k2. [80 stitches, 4 stitches decreased at head]
Round 22: Repeat Round 20. [74 stitches]
Round 23: *MB, k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, sm, k4, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to 1 stitch before next marker, MB, sm, k2.
Round 24: [K2tog, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2] two times. [4 stitches decreased: 2 at tail, 2 at head]
Round 25: K1, *MB, k3, repeat from * to next marker, sm, k5, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to 2 stitches before next marker, MB, k1, sm, k2.
Round 26: Repeat Round 24. [66 stitches]
Round 27: K2tog, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, MB, sm, k2, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, ssk, sm, k2. [64 stitches, 2 stitches decreased at tail]
Round 28: Repeat Round 24. [60 stitches]
Round 29: K2tog, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, MB, k1, sm, **k3, MB, repeat from ** to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2. [58 stitches, 2 stitches decreased at tail]
Round 30: Repeat Round 24. [54 stitches]
Round 31: K2tog, *MB, k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, sm, k4, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, ssk, sm, k2. [52 stitches, 2 stitches decreased at tail]
Round 32: Repeat Round 24. [48 stitches]
Round 33: K2tog, *MB, k3, repeat from * to next marker, sm, k5, **MB, k3, repeat from ** to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, ssk, sm, k2. [46 stitches, 2 stitches decreased at tail]
Remove beginning-of-round marker and slip the last stitch of the last round onto the left needle.
Cut yarn, leaving an approximately 30-inch tail.
Divide the stitches in half, sliding 23 stitches to each end of the circular needle or arranging them onto two double pointed needles.
Holding the needles parallel to each other, use Kitchener Stitch to graft together the two sides of the Bobble Sheep’s back.
Weave in the ends.
NOTE: You will notice in the pictures that I next stuffed the Sheep and closed the Belly. However, I recommend making the Face, the Ears, and the Tail before you stuff the Sheep and graft its Belly. Live and learn!
Make Head + Ears
Orienting the Sheep right side up, locate the Neck section, as shown above.
Using the Contrast Yarn and the smaller double pointed needles, pick up 92 stitches around the strip of stockinette stitches at the Neck.
To do this, start at the left bottom of the Neck, pick up 3 stitches in each of the next fifteen stitches along the left side of the Neck, two stitches along the top, rotate the Sheep and pick up 3 stitches in each of the fifteen stitches along the right side. (To pick up 3 stitches in one stitch, pick up and knit one stitch, yarn over, bring the needle back into the same stitch and knit to pick up another stitch.) [92 stitches]
Distribute the stitches on three double pointed needles, place a marker and join for working in the round.
Set-up Round: K16, [place a different color marker, k30] two times, place a different color marker, knit to end of round.
Round 1: K1, m1L, knit to first marker, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, knit to last stitch, m1R, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Round 2: Knit to first marker, sm, k2tog, knit to two before third marker, ssk, sm, knit to end of round. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 five more times. [68 stitches]
Round 3: Knit to first marker, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, knit to end of round. [4 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rounds 2 and 3. [58 stitches]
Repeat Round 2 one more time. [56 stitches]
Round 4: K2tog, knit to first marker, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, knit to last 2 stitches, ssk. [6 stitches decreased]
Repeat Round 4, removing first and third marker. [44 stitches]
Round 5: K2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, ssk. [4 stitches decreased]
Repeat Round 5 two more times. [32 stitches]
Cut yarn leaving an approximately 16-inch tail.
Divide stitches in half, placing the first 16 stitches on the first double pointed needle and the second 16 stitches on the second double pointed needle. Use Kitchener Stitch to graft together the two sides of the Head.
Weave in the ends.
Make the Right Ear
Using the Contrast Yarn and the smaller double pointed needles, pick up 18 stitches for the Right Ear (the ear on the right, if looking at the sheep).
To do this, count four stitches down from the top right side of the Sheep’s Head (just above a bobble). Pick up 3 stitches in this stitch and in the next two stitches above it (9 stitches so far). Then rotate the sheep and pick up 3 stitches in each of the stitches directly across from those you just picked up, working back towards the starting point. (18 stitches)
**Place marker and join for working in the round.
Knit 4 rounds. At the end of the fourth round, remove marker and turn work. You will no longer knit in the round, but back and forth in rows, turning the work at the end of each row.
Row 1 (inside of ear): Purl.
Row 2 (outside of ear): Knit.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2.
Repeat Row 1.
Next Row: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Next Row: Purl.
Repeat last two rows 6 more times. [4 stitches]
Next Row: Ssk, k2tog. [2 stitches]
Bind off purlwise.
Weave in the ends.
Make the Left Ear
Making the Left Ear (the ear on the left, if looking at the sheep) is very similar to making the Right Ear. The only difference is where you pick up the stitches.
Find the bobble across from the bobble you used as the starting point for the Right Ear. Pick up 3 stitches in each of the next 3 stitches above that bobble. Rotate the sheep and pick up 3 stitches in each of the next 3 stitches along the side of the Sheep’s Head, working back towards the starting point. [18 stitches]
Repeat steps under Make the Right Ear starting at **.
Tail
With Main Yarn and the larger double pointed needles, pick up 12 stitches as shown above. Here’s how…
Facing the Sheep’s rear, locate the left side of the left stitch that is 5 stitches down from the end of the Sheep’s back. Starting there, pick up 5 stitches up the left side, 2 stitches along the ridge of the Sheep’s back and 5 stitches down the right side the Sheep’s rear. [12 stitches]
Working back and forth in rows…
Knit 4 rows.
Next Row: Bind off 1 stitch, knit to end. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat last row 3 more times. [8 stitches]
Bind off.
Legs
NOTE: Before you make the Legs, stuff the Sheep loosely, then pick up the stitches from the Provisional Cast On, divide them in half and use the Kitchener Stitch to graft the Belly closed.
Using the Contrast Yarn and the smaller double pointed needles, pick up 26 stitches at one end of the Sheep’s Belly, as shown above. Here’s how…
Pick up 3 stitches in each of the 4 stitches along one side of the Belly [12 stitches], pick up 1 stitch along the center of the Belly, rotate the sheep and pick up 12 stitches along the other side of the Belly and one last stitch along the center. [26 stitches]
Distribute stitches on three double pointed needles, place a marker and join for working in the round.
Round 1: [K12, p1] two times.
Repeat Round 1 until Leg measures 4 inches from the pick-up round. NOTE: If you are making the Gentle Giant version, repeat Round 1 until Leg measures 5 inches.
Next Round: [K11, ssk] two times. [24 stitches]
Cut yarn, leaving a 10-inch tail.
Divide stitches in half, placing the first 12 stitches on one double pointed needle and the second 12 stitches on a second double pointed needle. Use Kitchener Stitch to graft together the two sides of the Leg.
Make a second Leg at the other end of the Sheep’s Belly.
Weave in the ends and you are all finished with your Bobble Sheep!
PRINT
I think I finally have it, but find the pattern a tiny bit misleading: after MB making the bobble, the k3 INCLUDES the final bobble stitch, correct? After slipping the 3 stitches over, knitting into that stitch is the first of the k3? Thanks!
Hi Paula,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I can help clarify. The k3 does not include the final stitch of the bobble. When completing the bobble, you will move the final stitch to the right hand needle and then knit the next 3 stitches. For example, when you begin round 5, you will have 46 stitches (23 in each section between the stitch makers.
Round 5 reads: [M1L, k2, *make bobble (MB, see Notes), k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2] two times. [4 stitches increased]
So in the first section, you will be working over 23 stitches, adding 2. The section that you repeat (MB, k3) is worked 4 times over 16 stitches. You will work the MB and then knit the next 3 stitches and then repeat, using up the 16 stitches and then continuing on to the MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Hi Adam,
I am having trouble understanding what to do after 4 rounds are knit for the right ear. I have two needles with 9 stitches each and am confused about the instruction “you will no longer knit in the round, but back and forth in rows, turning the work at the end of each row.” Am I knitting each side separately and then seaming the edge all the way around? Thank you for your help.
Susan Roth
Hello Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! When you get to this section you will want to transfer all of your stitches to a circular needle or straight needles and knit the rest of the ear flat – turning your work for each row.
I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Enjoying this project immensely. At the point of grafting the sheep’s head. I feel that the contrasting yarn that was sent with your kit does not have the texture or stability to “hold up” to the form of a sheep’s head. I feel once I close it, it will form a grey puddle. Do you recommend lightly stuffing this portion? Anyone else having the same result? I’m an accomplished knitter and have followed the directions implicitly.
Hello Rhonda,
Thanks for writing us! I’m so happy you are enjoying this fun project. The shaping of the head will create enough stability to keep its head up and out. It will be on the floppier side of things, but will maintain its structure. I think you will be happy with the result, but let me know if it does end up looking like a puddle and we can try and further problem solve.
I hope this is helpful!
-Marilla
Hi. I’m just finishing up this project as a gift for my three year old. He is psyched!! I just wanted to confirm though – are we only making two legs not four? Has anyone adjusted the pattern for four? Thanks!
Hello Jessica,
Thanks for writing in! You are correct- this pattern is for two legs. I think the two legs do a nice job of capturing the silhouette of the sheep. Aesthetically, I wonder if four legs might look a tad bunched up. Especially if you did them right next together. I would maybe experiment with staggering them out. I hope this makes sense. Let me know if you have any further questions!
Best,
Marilla
I picked up the 92 stitches for the head, starting at the bottom (the neck) and working up the left side first and then down the right. I’m assuming the pattern is referring to left and right when you’re looking at the sheep, not the sheep’s left and right? The placement of the markers stumps me, though – one ends up right at the top of the head? They all seem very askew. Any words of wisdom as to where I’m going wrong? Thank you!
Oh! Got it! I was reading it as k16, pm, k30, pm, twice. The k16 isn’t repeated.
Would this be appropriate for a beginner? I am a super-quick learner and am not afraid of challenges to start off…
Hi Connie,
Thanks for writing in! There are some more advanced techniques in this lovely little sheep! The Craft Yarn Council would put this somewhere between an intermediate and advanced pattern based on the techniques used. That said, if you are up for a challenge, you can certainly give it a go. I would suggest looking through the pattern and knitting some swatches that utilize the techniques (making bobbles, picking up stitches, k3tog, sk2p, provisional cast on, kitchener stitch as well as increasing and decreasing) and then decide if you are comfortable enough with them to give it a go!
Best,
Cassy
I purchased the stuffing you recommend with the pattern. How much of this stuffing do you stuff into the sheep? Love the pattern!
Hi Dawn,
Thanks for writing in! You can add as much or as little stuffing as you like. It really depends on how taut or fluffy you would like your sweet sheep. I usually stuff until I like the feel and then add just a touch more to account for it compacting over time. Any way you decide, the little sheep will be quite sweet!
Best,
Cassy
I’d like to make the pillow smaller from head to tail. Am I right in thinking that I just won’t increase as often and will start the decrease earlier? Any suggestions?
Hello Mary,
Thank you for reaching out! You might want to consider casting on less stitches to begin with, because if you do reduce the amount of increases and decreases it will change the overall shape of the sheep as well as making it smaller. It will also be important to look at the pattern and consider where the bobbles are lining up. I hope this helps!
Happy Knitting,
Marilla
Hello !
I cannot figure out whether the pattern (and yardage) is for the bobble sheep or the Giant bobble sheep.
Maybe use the same pattern with smaller gauge and needles ?
Getting the recommended yarn for most projects here in France is very difficult… only on the internet, and it’s pretty hard to chose colors by only swaps on the computer…(well, the sheep is white or black, that should be pretty easy), and as it takes weeks to receive orders and cost the equivalent of 2 or three balls…. our best choice is to find an equivalent yarn .
I love your site, your patterns, and your yarns and fabrics just look beautiful.
Thank you for your attention , your answer, and just for being there for us knitters
Hi Francoise,
Thank you for writing in and for your kind words! The pattern above is used for both versions of the Bobble Sheep. The yarn, needle sizes and gauge listed above are for the smaller version and the yarn, needle sizes and gauge for the larger version can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2016/02/29/bobble-sheep-pillow-in-gentle-giant/
You will want to look for yarns that knit at similar gauges depending on which size you would like to make and use the corresponding needles listed for that size.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Are the instructions for the tail correct? Looks odd. Looks like there are too many rows. Does tail stay open? The tail looks more round in photos.
Hi Laura,
Thanks for writing in! The instructions for the tail are correct. The tail on this sweet little sheep is open and shaped a bit like a half dome that is open on the bottom. You can certainly sew it up once you are done if you prefer the look of a closed tail! Either way, I think that the sheep will look great!
Best,
Cassy
If I’m at round 5 I only see a 3 stitch increase – not a 4 stitch increase. What am I missing?
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for reaching out! We are always happy to help! I find that it helps to write out the whole of the line from time to time. I am also going to bold the increases to make them stand out!
Round 5 reads: [M1L, k2, *MB k3, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2] two times. [4 stitches increased]
Round 5 expanded reads: M1L, k2, MB, k3, MB, k3, MB, k3, MB, k3, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2, M1L, k2, MB, k3, MB, k3, MB, k3, MB, k3, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2.
I hope that this helps clear things up and please do not hesitate to reach out again!
Happy knitting,
Cassy
I was wondering can this be made on stright needles.?
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for writing in! This pattern is written to knit in the round. We are unable to rewrite it to knit flat at this juncture. We realize that for some of our customers that this presents a challenge but we urge you to give it a try! Once you get the hang of it, you may find that you never use straight needles again, even for projects without so many stitches. Circular needles are just easier to keep track of (no losing one in the cushions of your couch!), and they never poke the person sitting next to you!
Best,
Cassy
I am trying to knit the right ear and am stuck after the 4 knitted rounds.How do I “turn the work” and knit rows? I have 9 stiches each on two parallel dpns. What next?
It’s been an adventure knitting this sheep but I managed to get the body and head right…not to be stumped by the ears. Thanks Connie
Hi Connie,
Thanks for writing in! At this point in the pattern, you will go from knitting in the round to knitting straight! Instead on continuing on in the same direction that you have been knitting, you will turn the work so that the inside is facing you and continue working back across the stitches that you just completed!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I crocheted it!
I am having a terrible time picking up three stiches from one stitch. ( Cant find any online tutorials which address three stitches) I love your tutorials and really really wish you would make one for how to pick up the stitches on my Bobble Sheep.
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for writing in! I am sorry to hear that you have difficulties! While we do have a tutorial for picking up stitches, we do not have one for picking up 3 in one. That said, you will start with the same principal listed in the tutorial. My favorite way to pick up 3 stitches into one is to knit into the front, the back and the front of the same stitch, creating 3 stitches from 1 stitch. We do have a tutorial for knitting in the front and back of a stitch (kfb) and for this technique, you will want to just dip into the stitch one more time from the front!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi, how are you, hope you’re doing fine.
I am having a little trouble with the head of the sheep.
In round 1 (Round 1: K1, m1L, knit to first marker, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, knit to last stitch, m1R, k1. [2 stitches decreased]), at the end, when it says “knit to last stitch, m1R, k1” I don’t know if I have to knit 15 stitches then m1R and k1 in the last stitch (16), or I have to kint all the 16 stitches and then m1R and k1 at the beginning of the first 16 stitches.
I have do it with the example number two and it doesn’t looks like the photo at all.
Hope I have explained it well so you understand my problem.
Best wishes, Melany.
Hi Melany,
I think I can help! Your first explanation (knit 15 stitches, m1R, knit last stitch) is correct. Just in case, since you wrote “m1r and K1 in the last stitch,” I want to make sure you are using the correct increase. This pattern uses the Make 1 Right and Make 1 Left increases which are worked in between stitches and do not use up a stitch from the stitch count. It sounds like you might be using a Knit Front and Back increase which would use up your last stitch before you get to the final K1 in the pattern.
I hope that helps! Let us know if you have any other questions!
Julianna
Hi,
I have a question about row 5. I understand the directions for the most part, up to where it tells you to repeat whats within the brackets [ ] two times. Am I supposed to be changing where my markers are? Like, are they moving throughout the piece? When I do the first round, I slip my marker and then k2, but then when I get towards the end, I don’t have three stitches left, I have 5…so I MB, K2, M1R and then K2. I have the right amount of stitches (50) and my first place marker is still at the beginning, I just don’t know if I am doing it correctly or if I have already made a mistake in the pattern. Thanks for the help!
Hello Morgan,
Thank you for reaching out- I hope I can help! Your markers will stay in the same place for row 5, though you will be increasing within them.
When you begin row 5 your row setup should be; 21sts, Marker, 23sts, Marker, 2sts, end of round Marker. This means you will have 23 sts between each unique marker, but 21 sts before your first marker when starting your row.
This means that that row 5 step by step would be: [M1L, k2, (make bobble, k3) 4 times, MB, k2, m1R, sm, k2,] two times.
I hope this helps and let us know if you are still coming across any issues
Happy knitting!
-Marilla