Coco’s Bobble Dress
Based on her great-great grandmother’s design, Coco’s crocheted dress is a tribute to the craftsmanship and creativity of the past. It’s amazing to me that the same design that made sense in a small Italian town a hundred years ago still makes sense today! Nothing binding or frilly or old-fashioned; just a classic A-line shape animated by rows of charming bobbles. I think this dress is going to make sense for another hundred years!
Materials
- 4 skeins of Koigu’s Premium Merino (this is color #1505 )
- 1 size “F” crochet hook
Gauge
5 single crochets = 1 inch
Size
To fit ages 2-4 (as a dress for smaller kids and as tunic for bigger kids)
17 1/2 inches from shoulder to bottom hem
22 1/2 inches chest circumference
30 inches bottom hem circumference
NOTES
Abbreviations
Single Crochet = sc
Double Crochet = dc
M1puff = make 1 puff
Sc2tog = single crochet 2 together
Make 1 Puff
To make a puff, first yarn over, then insert the hook in the next stitch, and pull a stitch through (3 stitches on the hook).
Repeat this step three more times, inserting the hook into the same stitch each time. First there will be 5 stitches on the hook, then 7, and finally 9.
Yarn over and draw through 8 of the loops (so there are 2 left on the hook).
And, finally, yarn over and pull through the 2 last loops.
The puff stitch actually “puffs” on the side away from you. For this reason, the dress is made with the wrong side facing you. You’ll turn it inside out at the end!
Single Crochet 2 Together
To single crochet 2 together, first pull a stitch through the next stitch (2 loops on hook).
Then pull a stitch through the next stitch (3 loops on hook).
And, to finish, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
Pattern
Bottom Hem
Chain 148.
Slip stitch into first chain to join in the round, being careful to not twist the chain.
Round 1: Chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of round, slip stitch to chain 1 to join. (148 stitches)
Round 2: Chain 2, 1 dc in each stitch to end of round, slip stitch to top of chain 2 to join.
Round 3: Chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of round, slip stitch to chain 1 to join.
Round 4: Chain 1, *1 sc in next stitch, m1puff (see Notes) in next stitch, repeat from * to end of round, slip stitch to chain 1 to join.
Round 5: Repeat Round 3.
Round 6: Chain 1 , *m1puff in next stitch, 1 sc in next stitch, repeat from * to end of round, slip stitch to chain 1 to join.
Round 7: Repeat Round 3.
Round 8: Repeat Round 4.
Skirt
Round 1 (Decrease Round): Chain 1, *1 sc in next 35 stitches, sc2tog (see Notes) over next 2 stitches, repeat from * to end of round, slip stitch to chain 1 to join. (144 stitches)
Round 2: Chain 2, 1 dc in every stitch to end of round, slip stitch to top of chain 2 to join.
Round 3: Chain 1, 1 sc in every stitch to end of round, slip stitch to chain 1 to join.
Rounds 4 – 7: Repeat last 2 rounds.
Round 8: Chain 1, *1 sc in next stitch, m1puff in next stitch, repeat from * to end of round, slip stitch to chain 1 to join.
Round 9 (Decrease Round): Chain 1, *1 sc in next 34 stitches, sc2tog over next 2 stitches, repeat from * to end of round, slip stitch to chain 1 to join. (140 stitches)
Repeat Rounds 2-8.
Next Round (Decrease Round): Chain 1, *1 sc in next 33 stitches, sc2tog over next 2 stitches, repeat from * to end of round, slip stitch to chain 1 to join. (136 stitches)
Repeat Rounds 2-8.
Next Round (Decrease Round): Chain 1, *1 sc in next 32 stitches, sc2tog over next 2 stitches, repeat from * to end of round, slip stitch to chain 1 to join. (132 stitches)
Repeat Rounds 2-8.
Next Round (Decrease Round): Chain 1, *1 sc in next 31stitches, sc2tog over next 2 stitches, repeat from * to end of round, slip stitch to chain 1 to join. (128 stitches)
Repeat Rounds 2-8.
Next Round (Decrease Round): Chain 1, *1 sc in next 30 stitches, sc2tog over next 2 stitches, repeat from * to end of round, slip stitch to chain 1 to join. (124 stitches)
Repeat Rounds 2-8.
Next Round (Decrease Round): Chain 1, *1 sc in next 29stitches, sc2tog over next 2 stitches, repeat from * to end of round, slip stitch to chain 1 to join. (120 stitches)
Repeat Rounds 2-4 only.
Next Round: Chain 1, *1 sc in next 53 stitches, slip stitch in next 14 stitches (for underarm), 1 sc in next 46 stitches, slip stitch in next 7 stitches.
Front
Notes:
- The front and back are worked separately in rows, rather than in rounds. So, be sure to turn the work at the end of each row in order to crochet back the other way.
- Each side is 46 stitches (don’t work the 14 slip stitches in between the front and back; they are the underarms.)
Shaping the Neck
Row 1 (wrong side): Slip stitch in next 7 stitches, chain 2 (counts as 1 dc here and for the rest of the pattern), 1 dc in each stitch to end of row, turn.
Row 2 (right side): Chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row (last sc is in top of chain 2 from previous row here and for the rest of the pattern), turn.
Row 3 (bind off for neck): Chain 1, *1 sc in next stitch, m1puff in next stitch, repeat from * 6 more times , 1 sc in next stitch, slip stitch next 16 stitches, chain 1, *1 sc in next stitch, m1puff in next stitch, repeat from * 6 more times, 1 sc in last stitch, turn.
Now, working just the 15 stitches of the Left Front Shoulder:
Row 1 (right side): Chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row, turn.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip stitch next 2 stitches, chain 2, 1 dc in each stitch to end of row, turn. (13 stitches)
Row 3: Chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row, turn.
Row 4: Chain 2, 1 dc in each stitch to end of row, turn.
Rows 5 and 6 : Repeat Rows 3 and 4.
Row 7: Repeat Row 3.
Row 8: Chain 1, *1 sc in next stitch, m1puff in next stitch, repeat from * 5 more times, 1 sc in last stitch, turn.
Rows 9 and 10: Repeat Rows 3 and 4.
Row 11: Slip stitch next 6 stitches, chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row, turn. (7 stitches)
Row 12: Chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row, turn
Row 13: Slip stitch each stitch to end of row.
Cut the yarn and pull it through the last stitch.
For the RIGHT FRONT SHOULDER,
With the right side facing you, join new yarn to the single crochet just to the left of the center 16 slipped neck stitches.
Row 1 (right side): Slip stitch next stitch, chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row. (13 stitches)
Row 2 (wrong side): Chain 2, 1 dc in each stitch to end of row, turn.
Row 3: Chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row, turn.
Rows 4 -7: Repeat Rows 2 and 3.
Row 8: Chain 1, * 1 sc in next stitch, m1puff, repeat from * 5 more times, 1 sc in last stitch, turn.
Row 9: Repeat Row 3.
Row 10: Repeat Row 2.
Row 11: Repeat Row 3.
Row 12: Slip stitch next 6 stitches, chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row, turn. (7 stitches)
Row 13: Slip stitch each of the remaining 7 stitches.
Cut the yarn and pull it through the last stitch.
Back
With the wrong side facing you, join new yarn just to the left of the 14 slipped left underarm stitches.
Row 1 (wrong side): Chain 2, 1 dc in next 46 stitches, turn.
Row 2 (right side): Chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row, turn.
Row 3: Chain 1, *1 sc in next stitch, m1puff in next stitch, repeat from * to end of row, turn.
Row 4: Repeat Row 2.
Rows 5-8: Repeat Rows 1-2.
Row 9: Repeat Row 1.
Row 10 (bind off for neck): Chain 1, 1 sc in next 15 stitches, slip stitch next 16 stitches, chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row, turn.
Working just the 15 stitches of the Left Back Shoulder:
Row 1 (wrong side): Chain 1, *1 sc in next stitch, m1puff in next stitch, repeat from * 6 more times, 1 sc in last stitch.
Row 2 (right side): Slip stitch next 2 stitches, chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row, turn. (13 stitches)
Row 3: Chain 2, 1 dc in each stitch to end of row, turn.
Row 4: Chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row, turn.
Row 5: Slip stitch the next 6 stitches, chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row, turn. (7 stitches)
Row 6: Slip stitch each of the remaining 7 stitches.
Cut the yarn and pull it through the last stitch.
For the Right Back Shoulder:
With the wrong side facing you, join new yarn just left of the center 16 slipped neck stitches.
Row 1 (wrong side): Chain 1, *1 sc in next stitch, m1puff in next stitch, repeat from * 6 more times, 1 sc in last stitch, turn. (15 stitches)
Row 2 (right side): Chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row, turn.
Row 3: Slip stitch next 2 stitches, chain 2, 1 dc in each stitch to end of row, turn. (13 stitches)
Row 4: Slip stitch next 6 stitches, chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row, turn. (7 stitches)
Row 5: Chain 1, 1 sc in each stitch to end of row, turn.
Row 6: Slip stitch remaining 7 stitches.
Cut yarn and pull through the last stitch. (One thing to ignore about this picture: the tail of the right back shoulder will actually be coming from the left end of the last row, not the middle.)
Finishing
Join Shoulders
With the wrong sides facing each other, thread the yarn under a slipped stitch from one shoulder.
Then thread the yarn under the slipped stitch directly opposite on the other shoulder.
Continue sewing back and forth until the shoulders are joined.
Armholes
With the right side facing you, join new yarn just to the left of the 14 slipped underarm stitches, point “A” in this photo:
Slip stitch from point A to point B (around the armhole, but not including the underarm). Try to make about 20 stitches along the front and 20 along the back.
Repeat for the other armhole.
Neck
With the right side facing you, join new yarn just to the left of the 16 slipped front neck stitches, at point “A” in this photo:
Slip stitch from point A to point B (to just before the slipped stitches of the back neck). Slip about 20 stitches up the front and 8 down the back. Cut the yarn.
Join a new yarn at point C and slip stitch around to point D (8 stitches up the back and 20 down the front). Cut the yarn.
Sew in all the ends and block the dress and you’re all done!
We’ve received quite a few requests for an image of the original dress, so here it is! Enjoy!!
Hi Nadine,
I think it would be fine to make the Bobble Dress with cotton, but as you suggest, it will have a heavier drape. Cotton also doesn't hold its shape quite as well as merino does, so your finished dress will probably "grow" a bit as it gets worn.
I hope this helps you make a decision. Please let us know if you have any more questions and good luck!
Whitney
crochet hooks and me are no good friends but Coco’s dress looked so beautiful ! I tried and gave up. so….I knitted it instead: with lines of popcorn stitches ! thank you for the inspiration. my daughter and I both like it a lot.
This is quite the Precious Pattern! I enjoyed the story behind it and that motivated me to make one from 100 % Merino for my granddaughter Ava. Her favorite color is Pink.
I love the pattern so simple. If you ever size it up please make it available for your readers.
I have made several items from your site. Great ideas! Thanks so MUCH for Sharing!
heavens,i just discover knitting and crochet ,i am from Greece,so far away from you but your site keep me company in this gloom time for my country ,i fall in love with this pattern and i will try it,it seems to me that i have my hands full all the autumn.thank you
We’re so glad you like our site Vivian!
Enjoy and happy crafting! -Alyson
Wish it had a knit pattern too
Thank you so much for this beautiful pattern. I recently learnt how to crochet from watching YouTube. I have just finished making your dress, had to undo and redo a bit but through no fault of the pattern or instructions. How would I be able to make it a bigger size, say for a seven year old as she would like one as well. I have no idea how to go about that, so any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Hello Debra,
I’m so glad you liked the pattern! When customizing a garment from an existing pattern, I always suggest making a gauge swatch. This means you’ll crochet a small square and count the stitches and rows per inch. By measuring the 7 year-old’s chest you’ll be able to determine how many stitches you will need to end up with before starting the strap/upper body portion. It takes a bit of math, but you’ll want to calculate what percent more stitches the chest is in comparison to the original pattern. Take this percentage and increase the cast on thusly. If you’d like to make the dress longer, then you will simply decrease over more rounds. I hope this makes sense! If you should have any problem, don’t hesitate to get in touch!
Best,
Adam
Thank you Adam, yes that does make sense as I was already thinking about percentages in respect to the amount of armhole stitches, front and back stitches to the total amount of stitches. I am currently making another for my 11 month old who is a little pudding pie, so just taking out a few rows so she doesn’t trip whilst crawling.
Hi Debra!
That’s so great! I hope it works out!
-Adam
It was fun learning how to make bobbles. Dress/tunic is adoreable on my 20 months old granddaughter. Thanks for the pattern.
I love this pattern! Making it for my niece right now!
Hello.
I love the Coco’s bobble dress pattern for toddlers.
I live in Malaysia and i would love to purchase the yarn needed to make this beautiful dress. could i order it from you?
Hello Joyce,
Thank you for reaching out! This is in fact a free pattern, so all you need to do is download it. If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%.
I hope this haps and thank you for your interest in our patterns!
Warmly,
Marilla
Hi! What yarn that you currently sell would you recommend for making this?
Thank you!
Evan
Hi Evan,
Thank you for reaching out! I would recommend checking out our fingering weight yarns as they would be perfect for this project. I am linking them here for you to check out so you can decide which fiber you’d like best but any of these should work wonderfully! I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any other questions!
Happy making,
Gavriella