Shoulder Forward Pullover
There should be a phrase that means precisely the opposite of giving someone the cold shoulder. Until that chain of words exists, we propose a solution in sweater form: Our Shoulder Forward Pullover is a warm embrace, that kind of fast-friend, easy-fit favorite that exudes everyday welcome vibes.
This is a classic V-neck that’s all chill and never chilly. Thoughtful details, an easy bottom-up construction with set-in sleeves and special tailoring at the shoulders make this familiar form a soft and cozy original.
Our Shoulder Forward Pullover is knit in the round, from the bottom to the underarms. Then you divide the piece and work the front and back separately, join the two sets of shoulders, and finally, pick up and knit the sleeves in the round down to the cuffs.
The shoulder are where the sweater is a standout: Instead of joining them at the usual top of the shoulders, we moved the seam ever so slightly forward, for a line of grace and ease. The shoulder join is a Modified 3-Needle Bind Off, which creates a raised ridge detail. Sharing the shoulder spotlight is some simple V-neck shaping with centered decreases that raise the bar and create a similar ridge.
We knit this up in our rustic-but-elegant Flax Down, a blend of baby alpaca, extra-fine merino and undyed linen, here in Kettle Black for a high-contrast vibe of windswept nonchalance. After all your holiday knitting, make this perfectly unruly beauty for yourself and enter the new year holding your head… and shoulders high!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Adam Aronowitz.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoShoulderForwardPullover, and #PurlSohoFlaxDown. We can’t wait to see what you make!
MATERIALS
- 5 (6, 6, 7) (7, 8, 9) (9, 10, 10) skeins of Purl Soho’s Flax Down, 43% baby alpaca, 42% extra fine merino, and 15% linen. Each skein is 219 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 1060 (1150, 1280, 1385) (1530, 1645, 1775) (1875, 1990, 2065) yards required. We used Kettle Black. (NOTE: We no longer offer Flax Down, but choose from one of our other light worsted/dk weight yarns.)
- US 5 (3.75 mm), 32- or 40-inch circular needles (depending on size you are making)
- US 5, 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 5 double pointed needles
- US 6 (4 mm), 32- or 40-inch circular needles (depending on size you are making)
- US 6, 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 6 double pointed needles
- Stitch markers
- 2 locking markers
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- A cable stitch holder
- Please Note: The Shoulder Forward Pullover Pattern is no longer available for purchase. For assistance, please contact us at customerservice@purlsoho.com.
GAUGE
23 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, using larger needles
SIZES
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
37½ (41, 44½, 48) (51½, 55, 58½) (62, 65½, 68¾)
To fit actual chest circumference of 31–34 (35–37, 38–41, 42–44) (45–48, 49–51, 52–54) (56–58, 59–61, 62–64) inches, with approximately 4–6 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 37½ (41, 44½, 48) (51½, 55, 58½) (62, 65½, 68¾) inches
- Finished Length From Top Of Shoulder: 21½ (22, 23½, 24) (25½, 26, 27) (27½, 28¼, 28½) inches
SAMPLE: The sweater pictured here is size 37½ inches modeled with 5 inches of ease.
PATTERN
I would love to make something like this for my son. How to adapt this pattern? thanks.
PS I wish you had more men’s patterns!
Hi Susan,
Great question! We strive to make as many of our patterns as possible equally flattering for all genders, and I think this pullover is a great example! Since it doesn’t have any waist shaping, this is a classic piece anyone could wear. The only modifications you might have to make would be to lengthen the sleeves and body depending on your son’s height, which you can determine by checking the specific measurements on the diagram included in the pattern.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Love this sweater, but would like to use a different yarn. Something soft and cozy without flecks. Any suggestions?
Hi Ann,
Great question! Almost any DK or light worsted weight yarn would work as a substitute for Flax Down, but I think Cashmere Merino Bloom might be the wonderfully soft and warm yarn you are looking for! You could also consider either Understory or Good Wool if you would like more options.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
This pattern is beautiful! Any suggestion for a cotton yarn that would look just as lovely?
Thanks!
Hi Katie,
Thanks for reaching out! Although it is a bit lighter weight than Flax Down, you should be able to obtain the same gauge using Cotton Pure. I would definitely recommend knitting a gauge swatch since you may have to change your needle size to do so.
Best of luck, and please do let us know it turns out!
Julianna
I would like to knit this up but without the alpaca wool. What would be a nice soft yarn you have and would recommend? I’m a middle beginner.
Hi Roxanne,
Thanks for writing in! I would recommend either Cashmere Merino Bloom or Good Wool as alpaca-free alternatives for this pattern. I do hope you give it a try – this is an excellent sweater for an advanced beginner!
Best,
Julianna
What is the best ply for a Lions brand of yarn. I personally cannot afford your yarn but I like this pattern and might want to try it with a worsted yarn or something similar. HELP
Hi Kathleen,
We hear you! We totally understand that sometimes our yarn suggestions are more of an inspiration than a reality for many people. We are always happy to recommend less expensive (but still beautiful!) alternatives. I’m not familair with Lion brand yarns, but in this case, we suggest that you try Good Wool. Not only is it quite economical, it has tons of yardage! For the Shoulder Forward Pullover, you would only need 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5) skeins for each size.
Thank you so much for asking. We’re sure that lots of other readers will thank you, too!
Best,
Julianna
Hi,
How do I know if I should use a 32″- or 40″-length circular needles? I purchased pattern but it doesn’t say which sizes call for the shorter or longer needles.
Thanks!
Caitlin
Hello Caitlin,
This is a great question! In my opinion, you can use 32″ for the first 2 sizes, either 32″ or 40″ for the next two sizes, and 40″ for the last two sizes.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I’ve read this pattern over several times and am just not seeing where there are instructions for picking up and working the rib at the neckline. If I’m just missing it, please let me know where this occurs in the instructions.
Thanks for your help.
Rachel
Hi Rachel,
Thank you so much for bringing this to our attention! There was an error in the pattern, but you should have received an updated PDF in your email that includes the neckline instructions. The correction has also been added to our errata page.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Could I use your Lantern yarn for this?
Hi Brigitte,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, I do believe you could obtain the correct gauge using Lantern for this sweater; however, since it’s a smaller needle than we usually recommend for garments out of Lantern, you may find that the resulting fabric is a bit stiff. I would suggest knitting and blocking a gauge swatch to see if you are happy with it at this gauge.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
I am a beginning knitter and am having a difficult time with the short rows on the sleeve cap. Is there anything I can do to eliminate or substitute for these short rows?
Hi Joyce Ann,
I’m sorry to hear that you are having trouble with this part of the pattern! Unfortunately the short rows are critical to the fit and shaping of the sleeve caps so they can’t be eliminated entirely. Many knitters prefer German Short Rows to Wrap and Turn short rows, so you may have an easier time if you substitute German Short Rows, though you will have to adjust the pattern slightly. Our tutorial video covers how to knit them and how to substitute them in your pattern in detail, but I would still recommend practicing on a swatch first!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello Julianna,
I love the shoulder forward pullover, especially in Flax Down…referencing the number of required skeins, does that number include the yarn required to knit a 6×6 swatch, or should I add another skein for that purpose?
Thank you!
Martha
Hello Martha,
Thank you for reaching out! This is a great question. We always aim to give you a generous approximation for recommended amounts, but we are basing it on how much yarn you need for the garment, and not necessarily the swatch. If you are worried about having enough, you can always get an extra skein, not get it wound, and return it for store credit if you don’t end up needing it.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
The neckline instructions state: Round 1: *P1, k1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, s2kp (see Special Instructions) removing marker, replace marker. I watched PS’s video instructions on how to execute a s2kp and it says to stop one stitch before the marker. will this make any difference in how to do the s2kp if i start it one or two stitches before the marker?
thank you!
Hi Jodee,
Great question! To keep track of stacked s2kp’s, you can either use a removable marker in the stitch itself and knit to one stitch before the marked stitch as we show in our tutorial, or you can use a marker on the needle and work to two stitches before the marker, which we did in this pattern. Both methods will turn out the same, and the steps for working the s2kp are unchanged, so I would recommend following the instructions in the pattern to avoid confusion!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Thanks!
I am making size 44 1/2″ and while working on the “shape right front neckline” , I still had neckline decreases to complete after I finished the short rows. I continued the neckline decreases while I was doing the short rows. The directions said to do 9 additional decreases every 4th row- and there is a note saying that ” you will finish Neckline decreases before end of shoulder shaping.
Did I miss something? Worried I have done something wrong….
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you might have measured the armhole length incorrectly before starting the shoulder shaping. The neck decreases for your size take 64 rows total, and at the correct row gauge, it will take 54 rows for the armhole to measure 6 inches, plus a further 15 rows for the shoulder short rows, so the neckline shaping should end 5 rows before the end of the short rows. When measuring the armhole, it’s important to make sure you are measuring in a straight line along a single column of stitches and not along the slope created by the armhole decreases. The easiest way to do this is to measure an inch or two in from the edge. I would recommend taking out the shoulder short rows and re-measuring the armhole to make sure it’s long enough!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
That makes sense! Thank you so much Julianna!!!
I cannot figure out the front shoulder neckline shaping at the same time the shoulder slope. Is the purl row the same for both? I am not finishing the neckline before the shoulder slope as it states. What am I doing wrong?
Hi Laura,
I hope I can clarify this part of the pattern for you! Can you tell me what size of the pattern you are making so I can write out the instructions for just your size? This should make it much easier to understand this section!
Best,
Julianna
On pages 5-7 of the pattern for the small size, if I did not change the decrease intervals of the neckline shaping, I would not have finished them before the shoulder shaping. I did get a slightly different length gauge, but even after those adjustments, I had to adjust the neckline decrease intervals. I expect with Cashmere Merino Bloom, which I just ordered to knit this sweater(because I love the piece), after swatching on a 5 or 6 will yield pattern gauge for rounds and stitches?
Hi Susan,
Thanks for writing in! This issue was indeed caused by your row gauge being off, but I’m glad to hear you were able to adjust the pattern so it all worked out! Every yarn and every knitter is different, so although Cashmere Merino Bloom is the same weight as Flax Down, I really can’t say if the row gauge will turn out correctly until you actually knit the gauge swatch. If, however, you again find that your stitch gauge is correct by your row gauge is a little off, you can try changing up your needle material from metal to wood or vice versa. Often this small change can be enough to fix a row gauge issue without affecting the stitch gauge!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi – I have a similar question on the shoulder slope/neck decrease. I’m making the smallest size. When I write out the decreases – 7 neck decreases every 4 rows, combined with shaping rows 2-3 a total of sox times, the shaping ends on Row 14, but I’m neck dec until Row 28? Halp! before I get too far! Thank you in advance 🙂
Hi Sandy,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help you with this! I just need a little more information, are you working the front or the back currently?
All the best,
Gianna
So Juliana, I am 24/34 on US#4 bamboo circulars on the Cashmerino Bloom. With that slight difference over the length of the neck, I did adjust again the intervals of the later neck shaping. The slope is about 3/4inch. Much easier adjustment than on the Cotton Pure.
Hello, I am working on this pattern now and have also come unstuck with the shoulder and neckline shaping. I am making the 41 inch chest size and wanted to clarify the instructions under shape front neckline and shoulder. I have worked the decrease row every right side 5 times, but can I please check whether the repeat every 4th row is for every right side row or for every row (knit and purl). Thanks so much in advance,
Karen
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out! After you have worked the decrease 5 times ever right side row you will repeat the decrease every 4th row on the right side!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Help! I am starting the sleeves…and somewhere I must have missed an instruction to attach a locking marker at the shoulder, so I am totally at sea…should I just add a marker after picking up and knitting the correct number of stitches? I can’t see the purpose of the marker, unless it is to indicate a midpoint?
Thanks!
Hi Helen,
Thanks for reaching out. The purpose of the locking markers is mainly to determine how long to continue the Right Back Shoulder and Left Back Shoulder for! They also do help when picking up stitches for the sleeves, to make sure that the stitches are spread out correctly, but you can absolutely just follow the numbers in the pattern for this part. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
Just wanted to know if the gauge swatch for this pattern is knit in the round?
Hi Samantha,
Thanks so much for your comment! The swatch for this pattern can be done in the round or flat. Both techniques are actually used in this sweater! It’s knit in the round from the bottom to the underarms, and then you divide the piece and work the front and back separately. Then you join the two sets of shoulders and, finally, pick up and knit the sleeves in the round down to the cuffs. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Cat
First time knitting a sweater and I’m having difficulty with the instructions – I have divided for front and back, and am now going to shape the armholes. I’m finding my circular needles are stretching my knitted material, so am having a hard time doing the wrap and turn. (I assume this is what I’m supposed to do at this point) I am using US size 6 ,32 in circular, should I switch to 16 in circular?
Hi Dawn,
Thanks for reaching out. I’m having a bit of trouble visualizing what you mean! At this point, you should be working flat, on only the BACK section of stitches. Since you’re going back and forth across the stitches, they aren’t joined in the round at all, so you shouldn’t feel any tension or stretching as the stitches should be free to move about on the needle cord.
Would you be able to send a photo of your work to customerservice@purlsoho.com? That way, we can see exactly what may be causing this issue!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
Yes, you are right. I thought I had to keep going in the round for some reason and was trying to work out how to get my yard to stretch to keep going. Thank you so much for clarifying. I assume the wrap and turn come into play when I am working on the part of the pattern further along. I may need some help when I get to that part!
-Dawn
You’re very welcome, Dawn! Please don’t hesitate to reach out if you have any other questions on this pattern!
All the best,
Lili