Deep V-Neck Sweater
As anyone who has ever knit a sweater knows, it can be a real juggling act! With this Deep V-Neck Sweater, I had the happy and lucky experience of somehow, someway managing to keep all the balls in the air. A seamless set-in sleeve pattern, a spectacularly seductive yarn and a very forgiving fit, all conspired to work together in beautiful harmony!
While set-in sleeves are perhaps the most flattering sweater construction, they traditionally involve the dreaded last step of laboriously sewing together all those pesky pieces. Determined to avoid that tedium, I embarked on this project armed with a few vague notes from Elizabeth Zimmermann and a cannot-fail doggedness (sound familiar, knitters?). Turns out a seamless set-in sleeve sweater is not only possible, it’s fascinating and absolutely easy!
And what about that incredible yarn? Alchemy’s Kozmos is an extraordinary blend of silk, mohair, wool and cotton, all hand dyed together to create a fuzzy, shiny, nubbly complexity of color and texture. It is this sweater’s magic ingredient, infusing it with a truly unique flavor, expressive, elegant and very feminine.
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Whitney Van Nes.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoDeepVNeckSweater. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 6 skeins of Alchemy Kozmos, 30% Silk, 26% Mohair, 13% Wool, 31% Cotton. Each skein is 119 yards/ 45 grams; approximately 476 yards required. This color is Platinum.
- A US 8 (5 mm), 24 inch circular needle
- A US 8, 12 inch circular needle
- 2 double pointed needles, US 8 or smaller
- 4 stitch holders
- 4 stitch markers
- OPTIONAL: For a snugger fit around the waist and arm bands, use US 7 (4.5 mm) circular needles for the ribbing (24 inch for the waist and 12 inch for the sleeves). I didn’t do this, but next time I would consider it. It just depends on your body and taste!
Gauge
For Size Small: 20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
For Size Medium: 19 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette stitch (This is the size pictured in the pattern.)
For Size Large: 18 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Finished Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
Small (Medium, Large)
- Waist Circumference: 36 (38, 40) inches
- From Shoulder to Shoulder Across the Back: 14 (14¾, 15½ inches
- From Bottom Edge to Underarm: 13 inches (with directions on how to vary)
Note
You will be asked to “purl 2 together through the back loop” (p2tog tbl). Here’s how:
1. Slip the first 2 stitches knitwise from the left needle to the right needle.
2. Slip them back onto the left needle, maintaining their orientation. These 2 stitches are now on the left needle in a twisted position.
Reach your right needle around to the knit side of the work and insert the tip through the back of the second stitch and then through the first.
Now bring the tip of the right needle to the front of the work and purl together those two stitches.
That’s it! Now…
Pattern
Begin at Bottom Edge
With the 24 inch circular needle, cast on 180 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Place a marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Round 1: *K2, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 6 inches from cast on edge (or whatever your measurement is from the bottom of your hip bone to the middle of your waist).
Next Round: Knit 41, place a marker (pm), p1, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p1, knit to end of round.
Next Round: Knit to first marker, p1, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p1, knit to end of round.
Repeat last round 4 more times.
Shaping the V
NOTE: For the rest of the sweater, you will be working back and forth in rows, turning the work at the end of each row.
Preparation Row (right side): Remove the end-of-the-round marker, knit to first marker, remove marker, p1, k1, p1, k1, turn the work so the purl side is facing you.
Row 1 (wrong side): [P1, k1] 2 times, purl to last 4 stitches, [k1, p1] 2 times.
Row 2 (right side): [K1, p1] 2 times, ssk, knit to last 6 stitches, k2tog, [p1, k1] 2 times. (2 stitches decreased)
Row 3: Repeat Row 1.
Row 4: [K1, p1] 2 times, knit to last 4 stitches, [p1, k1] 2 times.
Repeat Rows 1-4 eight more times. 162 stitches
Repeat Rows 1 and 2. 160 stitches
Separate for Armholes
Row 1: [P1, k1] 2 times, p 37, put last 12 stitches on a stitch holder, p 90, put last 12 stitches on a stitch holder, purl to last 4 stitches, [k1, p1] 2 times. 29 stitches for each front and 78 stitches for the back.
Set the body aside.
Right Sleeve
With the 12 inch circular needle and a new ball of yarn, cast on 64 stitches.
Place a marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Round 1: *K2, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 5 inches from cast on edge.
Knit for 1 1/2 inches.
Next Round: K 6, put last 12 stitches on a stitch holder (removing the marker), cut the yarn, leaving a 24 inch tail. 52 stitches
Attach the Right Sleeve
Now return to the body with the right side facing, [K1, p1] 2 times, knit to first stitch holder, pm.
Situating the underarm stitch holders (one from the body and one from the sleeve) so that they are parallel and next to each other…
…knit across the right sleeve stitches, pm, knit across the back stitches to next stitch holder.
Set the body aside.
Make and Attach Left Sleeve
Make the left sleeve identical to the right sleeve.
Returning to the body, pm, situate the stitch holders parallel to each other and knit the left sleeve stitches, pm, knit to last 4 stitches, [p1, k1] 2 times. 240 total stitches: 29 stitches for each front, 52 stitches for each sleeve, and 78 stitches for the back.
Begin Working Set-In Sleeves
NOTE: Instead of every 4 rows, from now on you will decrease for the V-neck every 6 rows. Don’t worry, the pattern will let you know!
Row 1 (wrong side): [P1, k1] 2 times, *purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog tbl (see Pattern Note above), purl to next marker, slip marker, p2tog**, repeat from * to **, purl to last 4 stitches, [k1,p1] 2 times. (4 stitches decreased)
Row 2 (right side): [K1, p1] 2 times, *knit to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog, knit to next marker, slip marker, ssk**, repeat from * to **, knit to last 4 stitches, [p1, k1] 2 times. (4 stitches decreased)
Row 3: Repeat Row 1.
Row 4: [K1, p1] 2 times, ssk, *knit to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog, knit to next marker, slip marker, ssk**, repeat from * to **, knit to last 6 stitches, k2tog, [p1, k1] 2 times. (6 stitches decreased)
222 total stitches: 24 stitches for each front, 52 stitches for each sleeve, and 70 stitches for the back.
Decreasing the Sleeve Stitches
Row 1 (wrong side): [P1, k1] 2 times, purl to last 4 stitches, [k1, p1] 2 times.
Row 2 (right side): [K1, p1] 2 times, *knit to next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog**, repeat from * to **, knit to last 4 stitches, [p1, k1] 2 times. (4 stitches decreased)
Rows 3 and 4: Repeat Rows 1 and 2. (4 stitches decreased)
Row 5: Repeat Row 1.
Row 6: [K1, p1] 2 times, ssk, *knit to next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog**, repeat from * to **, knit to last 6 stitches, k2tog, [p1, k1] 2 times. (6 stitches decreased)
Repeat Rows 1-6 until 26 sleeve stitches remain for each sleeve, ending with Row 2. 162 total stitches: 20 stitches for each front, 26 stitches for each sleeve, 70 stitches for the back.
Accelerate the Sleeve Decreases
Row 1 (wrong side): [P1, k1] 2 times, *purl to next marker, slip marker, p2tog, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog tbl**, repeat from * to **, purl to last 4 stitches, [k1, p1] 2 times. (4 stitches decreased)
Row 2 (right side): [K1, p1] 2 times, *knit to next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog**, repeat from * to **, knit to last 4 stitches, [p1, k1] 2 times. (4 stitches decreased)
Row 3: Repeat Row 1.
Row 4: [K1, p1] 2 times, ssk, *knit to next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog**, repeat from * to **, knit to last 6 stitches, k2tog, [p1, k1] 2 times. (6 stitches decreased)
Rows 5 and 6: Repeat Rows 1 and 2.
Repeat Rows 1-6 until 10 sleeve stitches remain, ending with Row 2. 128 total stitches: 19 for each front, 10 for each sleeve, and 70 for the back.
The Left Front
NOTE: For this section you will be working the left front stitches and half of the left sleeve stitches only. You will also no longer be decreasing for the V-Neck.
Row 1 (ws): [P1, k1] 2 times, purl to first marker, slip marker, p2tog. 1 stitch decreased. Turn the work so the right side is facing you and work back over these same stitches.
Row 2 (rs): Knit to last 4 stitches, [p1, k1] 2 times. Turn work.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times.
The next row finishes the left front and starts the back…
Next Row: [P1, k1] 2 times, purl to first marker, slip marker, p2tog, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog tbl, slip marker, purl to next marker, slip marker, p2tog. Turn work so knit side is facing you. 122 total stitches: 19 stitches for each front, 5 for left sleeve, 9 for right sleeve and 70 for the back.
The Back
NOTE: Now you will be working back and forth on just the back stitches and some of the sleeve stitches.
Row 1 (rs): Knit to 2nd marker, slip marker, k2. Turn work.
Row 2 (ws): P2tog tbl, purl to 2nd marker, slip marker, p2tog. 2 stitches decreased. Turn work.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times. 116 total stitches: 19 stitches for each front, 2 for left sleeve, 6 for right sleeve and 70 for the back.
Raising the Back with Short Rows
Now you’re going to work short rows over just the back stitches. Click here for a great Short Row Tutorial to help you through!
Row 1 (rs): Knit to 5 stitches before 2nd marker, wrap and turn.
Row 2 (ws): Purl to 5 stitches before next marker, wrap and turn.
Row 3: Knit to 5 stitches before next wrapped stitch, wrap and turn.
Row 4: Purl to 5 stitches before next wrapped stitch, wrap and turn.
Repeat Row 3.
Next Row (ws): Purl to the last 4 stitches of the entire row, picking up the wraps as you work, [k1, p1] 2 times. (Don’t worry that you picked up only half of the wrapped stitches. We’ll get to the other half later! It’s also okay that there is one fewer wrap on the right than on the left. No one will ever know!)
The Right Front
Now working just the stitches of the right front and some of the stitches of the right sleeve…
Row 1 (rs): [K1, p1] 2 times, knit to first marker, slip marker, ssk. 1 stitch decreased. Turn work so wrong side is facing you.
Row 2 (ws): Purl to last 4 stitches, [k1, p1] 2 times. Turn work.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times.
Next Row: [K1, p1] 2 times, knit to first marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to last 4 stitches of the entire row, picking up the wrapped stitches as you work. Place the last 4 stitches of the row on scrap yarn. 112 total stitches: 19 stitches for each front (including 4 on hold), 2 for each sleeve and 70 for the back.
Grafting the Shoulders
Slip the first 16 stitches onto a double pointed needle (removing the stitch marker).
Slip the next 16 stitches onto a second double pointed needle (removing the marker).
Cut the yarn, leaving a 24 inch tail, and use the Kitchener Stitch to graft the left front to the back.
With the right side facing you and using a double pointed needle, join a new yarn to the right front.
Bind off 4 stitches in k1, p1 pattern.
Slip the next 15 stitches onto this same double pointed needle (removing the stitch marker). (You should have 16 stitches on the needle.)
Slip the next 16 stitches onto a second double pointed needle (removing the marker).
Cut the yarn, leaving a 24 inch tail, and use the Kitchener Stitch to graft the right front to the back. 40 stitches remain for the back.
Finishing the Neckband
Slip the 4 edge stitches from the scrap yarn onto a double pointed needle.
With the right side facing you and joining new yarn, use the circular needle (that is holding the back stitches) to pick up 1 stitch from between the ribbing and the back stitches.
Still using the circular needle, slip 1 stitch from the neck ribbing and pass the picked up stitch over, k1, p1, k1. Turn the work so the wrong side is facing you.
Now using just the circular needle…
Row 1 (ws): P1, k1, p1, k2tog (the last stitch of the ribbing with the first stitch of the back). Turn work.
Row 2 (rs): Slip the first back stitch from the right needle onto the left needle, p2tog (the slipped stitch and the first stitch of the ribbing), k1, p1, k1. Turn work.
Repeat the last 2 rows until all of the back stitches have been knit, ending with Row 2.
Next Row (ws): P1, k1, p1, slip 1, keep the yarn in front and pick up a stitch from between the back and the right front ribbing (insert the right needle from the right side of the work to the wrong side and purl the stitch to pick it up), pass the slipped stitch over.
Next Row (rs): Bind off in p1, k1 pattern.
Cut the yarn, leaving a 12 inch tail.
Sew the two bound off edges of the ribbing together.
Finishing
Use the Kitchener Stitch to graft the underarms together.
Weave in all the ends and gently block. You’re all done!
I am creating this in serpentine, but having a hard time getting the correct gauge. A very Goldilocks situation with baby bears bed. I have tried 8,7, and 6 (which was really tight). It looks great though so I don’t want to give up on it. Can you please help me?
Kat
Hello Kat,
Thanks for reaching out! How many stitches per inch are you getting with each needle?
I hope I can help!
-Marilla
Hi! I am looking to purchase yarn for this project but it does not seem to be available on the site now. Will it come back in stock? If not, could you please recommend an alternative ?
Thank you 🙂
Mel
Hi Melissa,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately, we no longer carry Kozmos, but Lantern is the correct weight for this pattern and should give you a very similar effect! Another option is Understory, which doesn’t have the same nubbly thick-and-thin appearance, but has a similar fiber content to the original yarn and would result in a wonderfully soft sweater.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Thank you! 🙂
I’m trying to figure out how many to cast on and what to do about the knit 41 part of the pattern – I get 5 sts per inch on a #7 needle. My waist is 31” (tight) or 32” (loose) one calculator says I should cast on 156 or 160. Can you help me calculate the 41 sts and how many sts to count off for sleeves?
Hi Cassie,
Thanks for reaching out! I recommend following the instructions for the size small since that is what your gauge and measurements match up to be! The pattern has you start at the bottom edge, and with the 24 inch circular needle, cast on 180 stitches.
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
Thank you, Gianna. I’m excited to use this beautiful pink yarn from Juniper Moon Farm, Moonshine.
Are you sure the small will work? The pattern says it’s for 36″ waist. I don’t want to start and have it be too big.
Hi Cassie,
Thanks for reaching out again! I am happy to help! For a snugger fit around the waist and arm bands we do suggest using a US #7 needle instead on an 8! This would insure that the finished sweater wouldn’t be too big!
I hope this helps!
warmly,
Gianna
I love the sweater, but the “v” is too deep for me. How do I close it up?
Hi Sandrien,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, we don’t have written instructions for closing up the v, but thank you for expressing your interest! I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
I would love to knit this
What yarn(s) would you recommend? Also, can this be worn without anything (like a tank) underneath? Maybe using fashion tape?
I saw some completed projects on ravelry and it looks like the people who have knit this didn’t make it as fitted as it is shown here and also wear it with something under
Thanks
Hi Stephanie,
Thank you for your questions! Because of the construction of this project, I’ve seen many knitters wear a shirt under their finished sweaters, but if you have fashion tape I can’t see why it can’t be worn without an undershirt!
This pattern is knit in a worsted weight yarn, so I’d recommend checking out Sunshower Cotton, Tulip Cotton, and Linen Quill Worsted for some yarn ideas. Zageo 6-Ply Cashmere would also be a lovely yarn for this project!
I hope this helps! Please let me know if you have any other questions.
All the best,
Carly
I just started this today but I’m concerned because it says there are 3 sizes available but I do not see anything in the instructions for the 3 sizes
Ex: cast on 180 stitches
Sooooo is that for all sizes?
Hi Stephanie,
That’s a great question! In this pattern, the only thing that differs between sizes is the gauge. The gauges are different for each size, so that when you follow the exact same instructions and stitch count, the smaller sizes end up smaller and the larger sizes end up larger!
All the best,
Lili
Lovely pattern, thank you for providing it on your site!
I have a question about the first/last stitch of the V edges. Is it recommended to slip the first or last stitch for a smooth edge, or should they be worked for a stronger edge? Thanks!
Hi Lisa,
Glad to hear that this pattern has caught your eye! You can absolutely slip the first stitch of each row for a smoother neckline edge.
All the best,
Lili