Autumn Equinox Vest | Purl Soho

Gear up for fall hikes through the changing leaves with this cozy zippered vest. Easy details make this project fun and unique: a lofty slip stitch rib, pretty waist shaping and a bold plastic zipper. (Conquer zipper fears with our new Zipper Tutorial!)

I think vests are an autumn staple, and, for me, a pure knitting pleasure. Without sleeves, it’s over before you even knew it began! And on to the next project!

Designed by Purl Soho designer, Whitney Van Nes.

Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoAutumnEquinoxVest. We can’t wait to see what you make!

Materials

Autumn Equinox Vest | Purl Soho

Gauge

19 stitches = 4 inches in rib pattern, unstretched

Size

  • Chest Circumference = 33 inches, stretched
  • Waist Circumference = 31 inches, stretched
  • Top of Shoulder to Bottom Hem = 20 inches

NOTE: To make bigger sizes, knit at a looser gauge (by changing needle sizes).

  • 18 stitches per 4 inches will make a vest with a 35 inch chest and 33½ inch waist.
  • 16 stitches per 4 inches will make a 39¾ inch chest and 37¾ inch waist.
  • 15 stitches per 4 inches will make a 42½ inch chest and 40¼ inch waist.

Remember also that ribbing stretches. These final measurements are of the rib totally relaxed and unstretched. For a tight fit, choose your actual chest measurement or slightly smaller. For a looser fit, pick a finishes chest measurement about 2 inches bigger than your actual measurement.

Note

SLIP STITCHES

Slip all slip stitches purlwise with yarn in front.

Pattern

Body

With the longer US 8 needle, cast on 159 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.

Knit 2 rows.

Change to the US 9 needle.

Row 1 (right side): *K3, slip 1 (see Note) repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3.

Row 2 (wrong side): K1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, slip 1, k1.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 3 inches from the cast on edge, ending with a wrong side row.

Waist Shaping: Decreasing

Decrease Row (right side): *K3, slip 1, repeat from * 8 more times, k1, k2tog, place a marker, slip 1, ssk, k1, **slip 1, k3, repeat from ** 17 more times (there should be 113 stitches on the right needle), slip 1, k1, k2tog, place a marker, slip 1, ssk, k1, ***slip 1, k3, repeat from *** to end. (155 stitches)

Next Row (wrong side): K1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to 2 stitches before marker, slip 1, k1, slip marker**, repeat from * to **, ***slip 1, k3, repeat from *** to last 2 stitches, slip 1, k1.

Next Row: *K3, slip 1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before first marker, k2, slip marker, slip 1, k2, **slip 1, k3, repeat from ** to 3 stitches before second marker, slip 1, k2, slip marker, slip 1, k2, ***slip 1, k3, repeat from *** to end.

Repeat the last two rows 1 time.

Repeat the wrong side row 1 more time.

Decrease Row (right side): *K3, slip 1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before first marker, k1, slip 1 with yarn in back, remove marker, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over, replace marker, k1, **slip 1, k3, repeat from ** to 3 stitches before second marker, slip 1, k1, slip 1 with yarn in back, remove marker, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over, replace marker, k1, ***slip 1, k3, repeat from *** to end. (151 stitches)

Next Row: K1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, slip 1, k1.

Next Row: *K3, slip 1, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3.

Autumn Equinox Vest | Purl Soho

Repeat the last 2 rows until the piece measures 7 inches from the cast on edge, ending with a wrong side row.

Waist Shaping: Increasing

Increase Row (right side): *K3, slip 1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before first marker, k1, m1R, k1, slip marker, m1L, k1, **slip 1, k3, repeat from ** to 3 stitches before second marker, slip 1, k1, m1R, k1, slip marker, m1L, k1, ***slip 1, k3, repeat from *** to end. (155 stitches)

Next Row (wrong side): K1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to 1 stitch before marker, slip 1, slip marker, k1, ** repeat from * to **,  ***slip 1, k3, repeat from *** to last 2 stitches, slip 1, k1.

Next Row: *K3, slip 1, repeat from * to 3 stitches before first marker, k3, slip marker, k2, **slip 1, k3, repeat from ** to second marker, slip marker, k2, ***slip 1, k3, to end.

Repeat last 2 rows until piece measures 9 inches from the cast on edge, ending with a wrong side row.

Autumn Equinox Vest | Purl Soho

Increase Row: *K3, slip 1, repeat from * to 3 stitches before first marker, k2, m1R, k1, slip marker, m1L, k2, **slip 1, k3, repeat from ** to 4 stitches before second marker, slip 1, k2, m1R, k1, slip marker, m1L, k2, ***slip 1, k3, repeat from *** to end. (159 stitches)

Next Row: K1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, slip1, k1.

Next Row: K3, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to end.

Repeat last 2 rows until piece measures 11 inches from cast on edge, ending with a wrong side row.

Autumn Equinox Vest | Purl Soho

Underarms

Row 1 (right side): *K3, slip1, repeat from * to 4 stitches after the first marker, put the last 9 stitches on a holder (removing the marker)**, repeat from * to **, ***k3, slip 1, repeat from *** to end.

There are now 35 stitches for the left front, 9 stitches on hold for the left underarm, 71 stitches for the back, 9 stitches on hold for the right underarm, and 35 stitches for the right front.

Left Front

NOTE: For the Left Front section,you will only work the 35 stitches of the left front (“left” as if you were wearing the vest).  You can just leave the rest of the stitches on the circular needle and ignore them, or if you prefer, you can put the back and right front stitches on holders or on a loop of scrap yarn.

Left Armhole

Row 1 (wrong side): K1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 2 stitches (before the underarm stitches), slip 1, k1.

Row 2 (right side): K1, k2tog, *slip1 , k3, repeat from * to end. (34 stitches)

Row 3: K1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1.

Row 4: K1, k2tog, *k3, slip 1, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3. (33 stitches)

Row 5: K1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to end.

Row 6: K1, k2tog, k2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to end. (32 stitches)

Row 7: K1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 1, k2.

Row 8: K1, k2tog, k1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to end. (31 stitches)

Rows 9-15: Repeat Rows 1-7, ending with 28 stitches.

Row 16: K4, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to end.

Row 17: Repeat Row 7.

Repeat the last 2 rows until the left front measures 18 inches from the cast on edge, ending with a right side row.

Left Neck

Row 1 (wrong side): Bind off 6 stitches, k2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, slip 1, k2. (22 stitches)

Row 2 (right side): K4, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, slip 1, k1.

Row 3: Bind off 2 stitches, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 1, k2. (20 stitches)

Row 4: K4, *slip 1 , k3, repeat from * to end.

Row 5: K1, k2tog, k2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 1, k2. (19 stitches)

Row 6: K4, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 1, k2.

Row 7: K1, k2tog, k1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 1, k2. (18 stitches)

Row 8: Repeat Row 2.

Row 9: K1, k2tog, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 1, k2. (17 stitches)

Row 10: K4, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1.

Row 11: K1, k2tog, *k3, slip 1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2. (16 stitches)

Row 12: Repeat Row 4.

Left Shoulder

Row 1 (wrong side): K1, k2tog, k2, [slip 1, k3] 2 times, wrap and turn. (15 total stitches)

Row 2 (right side): K1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 1, k2.

Row 3: K4, slip 1, k3, slip 1, wrap and turn.

Row 4: K2, slip 1, k3, slip 1, k2.

Row 5: K4, slip 1, k1, wrap and turn.

Row 6: K3, slip 1, k2.

Row 7: K4, [slip 1, k3] 2 times, slip 1, k2, picking up the wraps as you get to them.

Put the 15 left front stitches on a stitch holder and cut the yarn.

Autumn Equinox Vest | Purl Soho

Back

NOTE: Now you will only be working the center 71 stitches, ignoring the remaining 35 stitches that are on hold for the right front.

Back Armholes

With the wrong side facing you, join new yarn.

Row 1 (wrong side): K1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, slip 1, k1.

Row 2 (right side): K1, k2tog, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, slip 1, ssk, k1. (69 stitches)

Row 3: K4, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Row 4: K1, k2tog, *k3, slip 1, repeat from * to last 6 stitches, k3, ssk, k1. (67 stitches)

Row 5: *k3, slip 1, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3.

Row 6: K1, k2tog, k2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 6 stitches, slip 1, k2, ssk, k1. (65 stitches)

Row 7: K2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 1, k2.

Row 8: Repeat Row 3.

Repeat last 2 rows until the back measures 19 inches from the cast on edge, ending with a wrong side row.

Back Neck

Row 1 (right side): K4, [slip 1, k3] 4 times, bind off 25 stitches, k2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. (20 stitches for each shoulder)

Back Left Shoulder

NOTE: Now you will just be working the 20 stitches of the back left shoulder.

Row 1 (wrong side): K2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, slip 1, k1.

Row 2 (right side): Bind off 3 stitches, *k3, slip 1, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k4. (17 stitches)

Row 3: K2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 1, k2.

Row 4: Bind off 2 stitches, k1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. (15 stitches)

Row 5: K2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Row 6: K2, [slip 1, k3] 2 times, slip 1, k1, wrap and turn.

Row 7: *K3, slip 1, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k4.

Row 8: K2, slip 1, k3, slip 1, k2, wrap and turn.

Row 9: [Slip 1, k3] 2 times, k1.

Row 10: K2, slip 1, k3, wrap and turn.

Row 11: K1, slip 1, k4.

Row 12: K2, slip 1, k3, p1, k3, slip 1, k4, picking up the wraps as you get to them.

Row 13: K2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Autumn Equinox Vest | Purl Soho

Assembling Left Shoulders

With the right sides facing each other of the left front and left back shoulders, use the three needle bind off to knit them together. In order to make the seam less noticable, do the three needle bind off purling the 2 stitches together, instead of knitting. Here’s how:

Holding the knitting needle and the stitch holder parallel to each other, insert the other end of the knitting needle into the first stitch on the back needle like you’re purling.

Autumn Equinox Vest | Purl Soho

Then insert the needle into the first stitch on the front needle, also purling.

Autumn Equinox Vest | Purl Soho

Purl the 2 stitches together. (At the beginning of the row, you need to repeat these steps so there are two stitches on the right needle. After that, you only have to follow these steps once in order to end up with two stitches on the right needle.)

Autumn Equinox Vest | Purl Soho

Then pass the first stitch over the second, just like a normal bind off. There will be one stitch left on the right needle. Purl 2 together again from the parallel needles, and bind off a stitch. Continue until there is one stitch left, cut the yarn and pull it through the last stitch.

Autumn Equinox Vest | Purl Soho

Back Right Shoulder

NOTE: Now you will just be working the 20 stitches of the back right shoulder.

With the right side facing you, join new yarn.

Row 1 (right side): K4, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to end.

Row 2 (wrong side): Bind off 3 stitches, k1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 1, k2. (17 stitches)

Row 3: K4, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Row 4: Bind off 2 stitches, *k3, slip 1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2. (15 stitches)

Row 5: K4, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 1, k2.

Row 6: K4, [slip 1, k3] 2 times, wrap and turn.

Row 7: K1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 1, k2.

Row 8: K4, slip 1, k3, slip 1, wrap and turn.

Row 9: K2, slip 1, k3, slip 1, k2.

Row 10: K4, slip 1, k1, wrap and turn.

Row 11: K3, slip 1, k2.

Row 12: K4, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last3 stitches, k3, picking up the wraps as you get to them.

Put the 15 back right shoulder stitches on a holder and cut the yarn.

Right Front

NOTE: For the Right Front section you will be working the remaining 35 stitches.

Right Armhole

With the wrong side facing, join new yarn.

Row 1 (wrong side): K1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, slip 1, k1.

Row 2 (right side): *K3, slip 1, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, ssk. k1. (34 stitches)

Row 3: K4, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, slip 1, k1.

Row 4: *K3, slip 1, repeat from * to last 6 stitches, k3, ssk, k1. (33 stitches)

Row 5: *K3, slip 1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Row 6: * K3, slip 1, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k2, ssk, k1. (32 stitches)

Row 7: K2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, slip 1, k1.

Row 8: *K3, slip 1, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k1, ssk, k1. (31 stitches)

Rows 9-15: Repeat Rows 1-7, ending with 28 stitches.

Row 16: *K3, slip 1, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k4.

Row 17: Repeat Row 7.

Repeat the last 2 rows until the front right measures 18 inches from the cast on edge, ending with a wrong side row.

Right Neck

Row 1 (right side): Bind off 6 stitches, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. (22 stitches)

Row 2 (wrong side): K2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to end.

Row 3: Bind off 2 stitches, k2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. (20 stitches)

Row 4: K2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, slip 1, k1.

Row 5: K1, k2tog, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. (19 stitches)

Row 6: K2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Row 7: K1, k2tog, *k3, slip 1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. (18 stitches)

Row 8: Repeat Row 2.

Row 9: K1, k2tog, k2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. (17 stitches)

Row 10: K2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, slip 1, k2.

Row 11: K1, k2tog, k1, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. (16 stitches)

Row 12: Repeat Row 4.

Right Shoulder

Row 1 (right side): K1, k2tog, [slip 1, k3] 2 times, slip 1, k1, wrap and turn. (15 total stitches)

Row 2 (wrong side): *K3, slip 1, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k4.

Row 3: K2, slip 1, k3, slip 1, k2, wrap and turn.

Row 4: Slip 1, k3, slip 1, k4.

Row 5: K2, slip 1, k3, wrap and turn.

Row 6: K1, slip 1, k4.

Row 7: K2, slip 1, k3, p1, k3, slip 1, k4, picking up the wraps as you get to them.

Row 8: K2, *slip 1, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Autumn Equinox Vest | Purl Soho

With the right sides facing each other of the right front and right back shoulders, use the purlwise three needle bind off to assemble them.

Autumn Equinox Vest | Purl Soho

Finishing

Armhole Edging

With the shorter US# 8 needle and the right side facing you, start picking up to the left of the underarm stitches.

Pick up 35 stitches up to the shoulder seam, and pick up 34 stitches down to the underarm stitches. (69 stitches)

Round 1: Place a marker, purl the 9 underarm stitches from the holder, and purl to the end of the round. (78 stitches)

Round 2: Knit.

Bind off in purl stitch.

Autumn Equinox Vest | Purl Soho

Repeat for the other armhole.

Neckband

With the longer US# 8 needle and the right side facing you, start picking up at the corner of the right front neck.

Pick up 16 stitches up to the right shoulder seam; pick up 34 stitches across the back to the left shoulder seam; and pick up 16 stitches down to the corner of the left front neck.

Knit 4 rows.

Bind off in knit stitch and cut the yarn.

Weave in all the ends.

Autumn Equinox Vest | Purl Soho

Zipper

Gently block the vest. As you lay the vest out to dry,  make sure that the distance from the cast on edge to the base of the neckband measures 18 inches. Alpaca wants to stretch, especially when it’s wet, so don’t let it grow too big for your zipper!

After pinning the zipper in place, use the thread and sewing needle to sew the zipper to the vest. For detailed instructions of this step, please check out our Zipper Tutorial.

You’re done!

Autumn Equinox Vest | Purl Soho